Yellowstone - What to see, where to stay?

[NLXTACY]

If you are really bored you can view the pics I took from the trip last year going from Los Angeles to Yellowstone the LONG way:

6211 Randi :: Yellowstone Trip Quick view

My son and I are leaving to go again in two weeks, this time going to Glacier NP.

 

[Bogo]

from:Grand Loop Rd/US-212 to:44.947455,-110.453497 to:Grand Loop Rd/US-212 - Google Maps

There is a one way gravel road from "A" to "C" on the linked map. This is along the Grand Loop Road from Mamoth to Tower. Zoom way in on the satellite image and you can plainly see it. Between 2006 and 2007 it was graveled. Before it was dirt and rock and the forest service guys got tired of unsticking cars and RVs along it when it got muddy. During dry times, with care, it was drivable in a stock Camry. The latter half is good for bear watching, but it can be tricky seeing them in the under growth. The road passes through alpine meadows and has very nice views. Many people drive by the entrance and never explore it. In the fall I'll maybe see a couple other cars on it. There is a gate at the entrance to close it off if conditions don't permit it's use. Another little gem is the road to Hellroaring Creek trail, at "C". Often when turning around there I've seen deer and other wildlife along it. Just a few hundred yards off of Grand Loop Road.

 

[Bogo]

There is also a one way road that starts out at Mammoth, somewhere behind the hotel, and heads north to Gardiner paralleling the NW entrance road. I don't know if they still allow autos on it as one map I've seen has a bicycle next to the road. Other maps say "one way". I haven't been on this one yet. From my Delorme topo maps it looks like it has a continuation outside the park and beyond Gardiner.

http://www.nps.gov/carto/PDF/YELLmap1.pdf has the road marked as one way.

 

[Bogo]

Another road that takes you off the beaten path is the one up to Slough Creek camp ground. I would also suggest driving Firehole Canyon Drive. There is much that is interesting along it as well as having a nice swimming hole. It is more heavily traveled as it is blacktopped and well marked.

 

[KayakPanic]

great pointers so far...

DO NOT miss the Old Faithful Lodge! I guarentee this will be one of the coolest 100 year old buildings you have ever seen! The fireplace is something like 5+ stories tall inside!!!

do not miss old faithful, no matter how touristy it is...there is nothing else in the world like it.

stop at all of the mudpots, and thermal features with boardwalks, they help break up the LONG drives. By the way, you may think that the mileages are small (30-100 miles), but I guarentee the driving in the park will take WAY longer than you think. RV's, flatlanders, and wildlife gapers do not add up to easy driving. Also the roads are mostly about 50 years old or more in the park, and the brutal winters really tear them up pretty bad every year.

although kind of out of the way, if you get to Mammoth, take the hike to The Boiling River! It is a backcountry hot spring that requires an easy, short hike (about 2 miles), and you sit in the cold river where the hot springs come into it. If possible, do not miss this. The trailhead is a few miles north of Mammoth proper.

Also, as stated above, if you have the time, drive the Beartooth Highway. It is WAAYY more scenic than the east entrance road to Cody. Also, there are lifetimes worth of unimproved NF camping offerings, which will suit you better than the paved "camp"grounds in the park (cause if you got satellite TV and a microwave, it isn't REALLY camping, is it??).

Thermopolis has the largest hot springs area on Earth (seriously), so stop there at the state park and choose from about 6 different hot springs. You could get to Cody/Thermopolis pretty easily from Red Lodge, MT after driving the Beartooth Hwy (do it, do it!)

If you have a built vehicle, check out the Goose Lake trail out of Cooke City, also lots of 4x4 trails around there.

West Yellowstone is a good place to re-up on supplies, I wouldn't totally write it off yet, and is about the only other real option for this other than Jackson. Also they have the Grizzly Discovery Center with lots of caged wild animals to look at, also not to be missed, if possible.

i am going to guess that Grant Village has bear boxes, because there are laws about legal food storage in grizzly country...

 

[Bogo]

stop at all of the mudpots, and thermal features with boardwalks, they help break up the LONG drives. By the way, you may think that the mileages are small (30-100 miles), but I guarentee the driving in the park will take WAY longer than you think. RV's, flatlanders, and wildlife gapers do not add up to easy driving. Also the roads are mostly about 50 years old or more in the park, and the brutal winters really tear them up pretty bad every year.

The nice thing about going after school starts is the numbers of people are much much lower. Getting around the park is much easier. Still I figure on a wildlife jamb per road segment when traveling around the park.

Also, as stated above, if you have the time, drive the Beartooth Highway. It is WAAYY more scenic than the east entrance road to Cody. Also, there are lifetimes worth of unimproved NF camping offerings, which will suit you better than the paved "camp"grounds in the park (cause if you got satellite TV and a microwave, it isn't REALLY camping, is it??).

What I can't stand at the regular campgrounds is the groan of generators and TVs blaring all the time. Camping is supposed to be getting away from it all. Not bringing it with you.

Thermopolis has the largest hot springs area on Earth (seriously), so stop there at the state park and choose from about 6 different hot springs. You could get to Cody/Thermopolis pretty easily from Red Lodge, MT after driving the Beartooth Hwy (do it, do it!)

Having done both NE and E entrances now, go over the Beartooth Pass if it is open. May have snow up there that late in the season. First time I went over the Beartooth pass was because I missed the turn to Cody. I was really glad I missed it. I wanted to go back over it again in the morning, but it was closed. I'd crossed it at sunset and got to see a wonderful sunset over some mountain lakes on the south side. As I was driving over it I was wondering why the big truck sized snow blowers were out there at the turnarounds idling. That night there was a big storm and it closed the pass for over a day. The road was also deserted. There were only a handful of vehicles on it.

If you have a built vehicle, check out the Goose Lake trail out of Cooke City, also lots of 4x4 trails around there.

More reason to head there again.

West Yellowstone is a good place to re-up on supplies, I wouldn't totally write it off yet, and is about the only other real option for this other than Jackson. Also they have the Grizzly Discovery Center with lots of caged wild animals to look at, also not to be missed, if possible.

The advantage of West Yellowstone is proximity. It is close and they have a reasonable amount of shopping. They even have two grocery stores. The grocery stores in the parks are sadly very limited in variety. Cook City and out that way has a general/convience/gas store/station combination. Again not much selection. Gardiner I don't know about. Never stopped in that town. Only driven through. Cody and Jackson both have good shopping with variety, but they are quite a long drive from Yellowstone.

West Yellowstone also has the Running Bear Pancake house which serves breakfast from 7am to 2pm so you can have it for brunch or lunch. Excellent food quality too. It's near the west end of Madison Ave.

i am going to guess that Grant Village has bear boxes, because there are laws about legal food storage in grizzly country...

All official tent campsites at the campgrounds in the park should have bear boxes for food. They might be shared with another campsite, but they have them. I think most if not all the RV ones do too. Storing food in your car can be problematic as bears have been known to break into cars.

 

[NLXTACY]

All official tent campsites at the campgrounds in the park should have bear boxes for food. They might be shared with another campsite, but they have them. I think most if not all the RV ones do too. Storing food in your car can be problematic as bears have been known to break into cars.

I can't speak for all of the campgrounds but Norris Campgrounds does NOT have bear boxes except for maybe three that I remember seeing. One of them specifically on the campground on the meadow. Our first spot did not and I was happy that the meadow spot opened up.

 

[constructeur]

Mark- National Geographic has a recent article on the Yellowstone Caldera, and the geological activity of the area that you may find interesting: Under Yellowstone — National Geographic Magazine

 

[Bogo]

I can't speak for all of the campgrounds but Norris Campgrounds does NOT have bear boxes except for maybe three that I remember seeing. One of them specifically on the campground on the meadow. Our first spot did not and I was happy that the meadow spot opened up.

Interesting. I guess that project got unfunded. They were all supposed have em by last year. Storing food in cars is problematic as they aren't bear proof. Just google "bear car breakin".

 

[Bogo]

Mark- National Geographic has a recent article on the Yellowstone Caldera, and the geological activity of the area that you may find interesting: Under Yellowstone — National Geographic Magazine

There is allot of good stuff on the web about the Yellowstone Caldera. Just do a google search. If you like watching videos, there are some good ones including ones by the USGS. Depending on who is doing the counting, Yellowstone is either 40,000 years late, or 60,000 to 100,000 years early for an another super eruption. Another super volcano to look up is Toba. Toba nearly wiped us out as a species.

 

[Bogo]

On August 29, 1870, a 30-year-old Army lieutenant named Gustavus Doane, part of an exploratory expedition in the Yellowstone region in the territory of Wyoming, scrambled his way to the summit of Mount Washburn above the Yellowstone River. Looking to the south, he noticed that something was missing from a stretch of the Rocky Mountains: mountains. For miles and miles, the only elevations were in the distance, forming parentheses around a huge forested basin. Doane saw only one way to explain the void. "The great basin," he wrote, "has been formerly one vast crater of a now extinct volcano."

Is the only part I hadn't known. As I said there is a ton of information on the web about Yellowstone Caldera and the rest of the park.

Here are three USGS videos on Yellowstone Caldera.
YouTube - Yes! Yellowstone is a Volcano (Part 1 of 3)
YouTube - Yellowstone Volcano Observatory (Part 2 of 3)
YouTube - Yellowstone Eruptions (Part 3 of 3)
They are unrehearsed clips of the lead researcher answering some questions about the Yellowstone caldera.
from: Yellowstone Volcano Observatory

has some about the early history of the park. It's part of a longer production by Little Big Horn Productions . Goof old eye candy. They have some other snips out at Youtube.

 

[street tractor]

While in Sinks Canyon you may as well check out the road at the end of the canyon that switchbacks up to Louis lake and beyond. We were there too early in the season last year to do it but apparently there are great views back into the canyon as well as glimpses of the Wind River Range when you get up top. The road eventually meets with the Highway that goes over the southern end of the Wind Rivers near South Pass. If it were me, I would then retrace my route back to Lander and approach Yellowstone/Teton NP on 287 over Togwotee Pass, epic views of the Tetons and a much nicer drive than 191 in my opinion... While you're in this neck of the woods you might want to consider checking out Green River Lakes near the northern end of the Wind River Range. A bit of a drive to get out there but well worth it from what I've read(one of the most photographed places in WY). There is a campground out there as well...

As said earlier, leave Yellowstone via Beartooth Pass if possible, it IS worth going out of your way for. Explore the road in both directions if time permits and head south on Chief Joseph scenic byway(another unbelievable road) which will take you down to Cody and on to Thermopolis. Wind River Canyon is just beyond Thermopolis and is a beautiful drive, especially early or late in the day.

Hope you have a great time! I will be there in Sept as well doing much of what I have covered here, and more. What I love the most about Wyoming though is the solitude,(outside of the NW corner of course!) It's so nice having beautiful mountain roads to yourself and leaving the crowded interstates behind!

 

[Bogo]

While you're in this neck of the woods you might want to consider checking out Green River Lakes near the northern end of the Wind River Range. A bit of a drive to get out there but well worth it from what I've read(one of the most photographed places in WY). There is a campground out there as well...

It is an area I felt from looking at maps and satellite images was highly likely to see moose so it is on my map of places to hit next time I'm doing a trip during late September to early October. On this google map it is at "C". I added a more scenic route between it and the Sinks Canyon area. Knowing the area I wouldn't be surprised if most of it was gravel.
from:US-26/US-287 to:US-26/US-287 to:Green River Lakes Rd to:Unknown road to:Emigrant Trail to:Lander Cutoff Rd to:Louis Lake Rd/WY-131 to:Nevin Circle to:Sinks Canyon Rd/WY-131 - Google Maps

Emigrant Trail is something I want to check out in the area. Saw it on the maps and got curious.

 

[street tractor]

That is an excellent route! I am especially curious of the Green Lakes to Dubois section. A great way to see this part of Wyoming without having to backtrack. Have you driven this before?

 

[Bogo]

That is an excellent route! I am especially curious of the Green Lakes to Dubois section. A great way to see this part of Wyoming without having to backtrack. Have you driven this before?

No, I used google to locate a way through. May or may not be controlled access by the Forrest Service. Someday I have to look at their maps and compare. See which roads are which. There are a few other road accessible lakes that I want to visit. Some roads have vehicle type restrictions that may not allow trucks on them, but will allow motorcycles and ATVs.

 

[Bogo]

Maps of vehicle types and dates allowed:
Bridger-Teton National Forest - Maps & Brochures
I wish these were integrated with topo maps, even at 100,000 scale. That way it would be easier to figure out which road is which.

Looks like my route as it passes through the Pinedale District of the Bridger-Teton NF is open for regular vehicles. I still need to check the Wind River District of the Shoshone NF for the eastern portion close to Dubois.

 

[romey]

amazing shots Trollholl! wow!

good thing we didn't bother "passing" through yellowstone on our way back from BC/west coast, that place deserves proper planning and time to really absorb and enjoy the beauty. maybe in a couple years...

 

[Bogo]

I keep going back for more and always have new stuff to see. It isn't just Yellowstone and Grand Teton NP, it's the whole area around them too. It's a large area with many natural wonders and different environments to see.

 

[kcowyo]

On this google map it is at "C". I added a more scenic route between it and the Sinks Canyon area. Knowing the area I wouldn't be surprised if most of it was gravel.
from:US-26/US-287 to:US-26/US-287 to:Green River Lakes Rd to:Unknown road to:Emigrant Trail to:Lander Cutoff Rd to:Louis Lake Rd/WY-131 to:Nevin Circle to:Sinks Canyon Rd/WY-131 - Google Maps

Emigrant Trail is something I want to check out in the area. Saw it on the maps and got curious.

Union Pass as it is called, between US-26 and Pinedale, is all gravel and an easy road. Fall brings the hunters up there to the high country. It's also Grizzly country, so you know, be careful and stuff... Your shown route from Boulder to the Loop Road and Lander is also all dirt (except a few short miles on US-28), mostly sand, ie Big Sandy Recreation Area. Great route, very scenic views of the Windrivers....


Lots of other good suggestions in this thread including Beartooth Pass, Old Faithful Lodge, Jenny Lake & inspiration Point (although I would hike to the point first and then take the ferry back), soaking in the Boiling River, Goose Lake Trail in Cooke City and the possibility of snow in September.


Some OP questions I didn't see answered -
One pass gets you in both parks (annual passes are now $80). Expect long construction delays around Lizard Creek in Grand Teton NP. Also some construction delays between Mammoth and Norris in Yellowstone...

You must stay in a campground in Yellowstone. Depending on the crowds, I would pick one and basecamp there for your stay. Nothing worse than running into "campground full" signs at 4pm and not having a clue where you'll stay that night.

Sinks Canyon in Lander, is a great place to stay. I live a few miles down the road and take my kids up there for overnighters all the time. Make sure to see the "Sinks" and the "Rise" while you're there. The section of the Loop Road that starts in Sinks Canyon is under heavy construction this summer. They are allowing traffic through at certain times of the day, check the ranger station to see when if you want to do that trip. It is an awesome drive by the way. Lots of beautiful lakes up there.

My local's tip to you regarding travelling through the national parks - gas. Anytime you're under half a tank and you see a gas station, top off. The distances are misleading, the amount of fuel you'll use is often surprising and stations are really spread out. That and secure that campsite ASAP. Better to drive all the way back across the park to your site, than driving in circles looking for a site. Been there, done that, hated every minute of it.

from:Grand Loop Rd/US-212 to:44.947455,-110.453497 to:Grand Loop Rd/US-212 - Google Maps

There is a one way gravel road from "A" to "C" on the linked map. This is along the Grand Loop Road from Mamoth to Tower. Zoom way in on the satellite image and you can plainly see it.

You talking about the Blacktail Plateau road? Haven't seen that one open on my last few trips. You're right, they close that one often. They did have Dunraven Pass open this year which was the first time I've been able to drive over that in several years.

Lots of good info in this thread. It's great to see so many people appreciate this little corner of the world. This corner of WY truly is a wonderland.

.

 

[BirfMark]

Well we're headed out this Sunday morning for our trip - we're itching to get out of here.

I think we're going to try taking the Lander Cutoff road from hwy 28 across Big Sandy up to Boulder.

Just wanted to say thanks again to everyone for all the tips & information that is sure to help make this journey a memorable one!