Yakima Lock n Load Roof Rack (1 Viewer)

[LX4MMTH]

Are you sure your name isnt Yakima Cowboy? ha ha... I wrote a lengthy response but decide to delete it. For a guy (me) that has incentives to buy Yakima, I would still go Prinsu full MSRP all day long for several reasons:
- its lower profile
- the bars can be removed and/or adjusted
- cheaper (MSRP vs MSRP)

bottom line -- some companies out there just focus on certain niche and do it well.

 

[kruisinkid]

from personal experience, i would not recommend a yakima or baja rack. i had a mega basket on my 40 and i bought a 100 that came with a baja rack. they are both cheeseball thin wall steel tubing with a crappy crinkle powder coat that doesnt hold up. and yeah sure, the 2 biggest names in racks (yakima and thule) have enough money to make a sweet deal with a manufacturer. yes they have spent a lot of money on engineering and testing and advertising, but didnt spend much money on the actual product. slick product that cant compare to the quality and sturdiness of what the vendors on mud are putting out. my 2¢

 

[LX4MMTH]

I’ve owned all brands from Thule Yakima Inno Kuat Rhino and at the end of the day just depends on that particular item vs competition. Take for example the hitch rack for bikes Thule T2 pro hands down game changer with the lever to release bike rack vs it’s competition. End of the day just depends on what is available and the features of each.

 

[alpinecowboy]

Are you sure your name isnt Yakima Cowboy? ha ha... I wrote a lengthy response but decide to delete it. For a guy (me) that has incentives to buy Yakima, I would still go Prinsu full MSRP all day long for several reasons:
- its lower profile
- the bars can be removed and/or adjusted
- cheaper (MSRP vs MSRP)

bottom line -- some companies out there just focus on certain niche and do it well.

Ha, probably more like "major brand cowboy" - I tried to distribute the love to all the big lines that I know are in the business of testing and also tried to give due props to the undoubted quality of prisnu and baja etc - people like to get snobby about brands but I find that they often are just improvising on why. Small brand are cool. I get it 100% and not being facetious at all. I understand the appeal. I tend to think everyone is free to make their own informed choices and I don't think you can go wrong with any of the brands discussed. That said - they all bring unique strengths and weaknesses to the table. I speak only to that which I am able to without confusion or inaccuracy which is why I know more about Thule and Yakima etc.

Anyhoo... I appreciate your discretion in deleting a flame. I consider myself flamed. I definitely hope I didn't offend. All the reasons you list above for Prinsu are excellent and check a lot of boxes.

virtual high five.

 

[thetimmer]

What are you driving Nightbrew? Is it a 100 Series LC? Do you have factory tracks on the roof or raised side rails?

If you have factory tracks you need four baseline towers (sold as 4 packs or 2 packs), 2x crossbars of your preference (Core bars do the trick), and two pairs of landing pads - Landing Pad 1 specifically. If on the other hand your truck has raised side rails then you will just need to get the "Timberline Kit" - it comes in two sizes depending on how wide you want the crossbars. Both kits are very easy to install and cost pretty much the same.

Either of those setups will give you two cross bars with full roof load capacity at 165lbs. Most of this info would work for an 80 series as well as a variety of T4R's depending on the generation and roof options. All of this would give you a great base rack from which to carry bikes, boats, cargo, a roof top tent, awning, etc... Also the Yakima/Thule/Rhino crossbars and accessories are all cross-compatible so don't let that hang you up (with a VERY VERY few old esoteric exceptions).

Additionally, ALL toyota trucks/SUV's have factory hard points that are VERY easy to access and mount for a "fixed" option as well. If you want to go down that path it requires the removal of any OEM factory racks. That's not a brain bender, but can be an old fashioned hassle sometimes depending on the age and condition of the plastic and hardware. Fixed point installs are also about the same cost as the other two options it just tucks it all al little closer to the roof line... but we all gave up parking garages a long time ago, didn't we?

Hope that helps. Yakima has an easier fit tool: Yakima Infolookup

It also has pictures at the bottom of your vehicle with example racks installed. It is buried on their main website but I like it more for rack fitting purposes.

Last.... and I hesitate because I am sure the product is just fine... but folks should hesitate when comparing Prisnu and major manufacturers such as Yakima or Thule. One word: Testing.

Again, while I am sure that Prisnu racks are nothing less than great, they are also not subjected to the same testing standards or materials inspection processes that more evolved and comprehensive manufacturing facilities provide such as those at the larger brands. While this enables cottage brands a degree of agility and innovative license, it is also a far cry from what folks like Thule and Yakima and Rhino have invested in around vehicle integration, NHTSA & EU testing apparatuses and the dedicated facilities to house and abuse products for years prior to release.

Obviously I am a rack nerd, but these things do matter to me. I trust the engineers at Toyota more than others to understand and design our rigs. Likewise, when they make an aftermarket choice I equally pay attention. In this case, for all major auto makers, there are really only three rack brands that pass the actual manufacturer safety testing and fitment standards and that is Yakima, Rhino and Thule. Again, with all respect to any other racks: I am SURE, like 100%, that they are great and if you have one I'm not picking a fight - in fact, we both know your Baja Rack is cooler than mine. I mean it.

However, I just want to call out what is unknown or behind the scenes and can seem like a cost discrepancy until the light is shed on it. In this case, when you pay "more" from a major rack brand - that "more" you are paying for is product testing. That is why Yakima is the rack partner for Toyota, Ford, Tesla and Jeep while Thule partners with Subaru, Audi/VW & Volvo among others. What that means is that rack engineers at the rack companies are working with vehicle engineers at the car manufactures to get the best possible fit. Anyway.... yawn... I know....

Apline Cowboy can you please expand on the "fixed point" option for the Land Cruiser 100 series. I cannot get the online fitment guide to recognize this option and am not sure what Land Pad I would need to mount directly to these fixed points. Thanks!

 

[Nightbrew]

Apline Cowboy can you please expand on the "fixed point" option for the Land Cruiser 100 series. I cannot get the online fitment guide to recognize this option and am not sure what Land Pad I would need to mount directly to these fixed points. Thanks!

This is what I mentioned earlier in the thread. My LC is a 2000 and it wont show me any mounts/towers etc the fit directly with the factory rack removed.

 

[alpinecowboy]

Yeah.... it is something that I asked Yakima about at a trade show and was told they are working on creating a new kit that they will be releasing sometime this Spring, probably in April or May, specifically that calls out 80's, 100's, 200's, etc etc.... It will work with several vehicles and generations and they are just confirming fitment and testing now across the board.

That said, if you don't want to wait, I have used the LP 22 (Landing Pad 22) on everything from an 80/100/200 series LC to a Sequoia to Gen 5 T4R's and most Gen 4's and even crew cab Tacomas. The trick is getting a longer M10 bolt than the one they provide. I took the longest one in their install kit to Fastenal (we have one close luckily) and they got me one that is 50mm - I have used 60mm as well.

Yakima's kit is some combination of the above with the added benefit of testing etc and better instructions of course - ha - but you get the idea if you gone as far as taking your stock rack off and exposing your mounting points. If you are to this point then this should all make sense. The LP22 just sits over the bolt hole(s)... tape off what you aren't using... don't forget thread locker for leaks and tightness.... use a torque wrench.... it's all in the manual... you just need to source your own longer mounting bolts which is super easy. Get stainless and tell them it is for an automotive application so you get the right strength.

 

[thetimmer]

Alpine Cowboy I was wondering if you or anyone else has an update on how best to mount Yakima products directly to a Land Cruiser 100 series. I am interested in removing my factory rails fitting the Yakima Skyline bars directly to "fixed" mounting points. However, the Yakima website does not state that this is compatible. Although the Yakima Australia site shows that it is an option. Picture below.

I would love to know if anyone has put the Yakima Skyline directly to the fixed mounting points? If so what "Landing Pads" did you use?
Thanks
Tim

 

[jlm43]

Alpine Cowboy I was wondering if you or anyone else has an update on how best to mount Yakima products directly to a Land Cruiser 100 series. I am interested in removing my factory rails fitting the Yakima Skyline bars directly to "fixed" mounting points. However, the Yakima website does not state that this is compatible. Although the Yakima Australia site shows that it is an option. Picture below.

I would love to know if anyone has put the Yakima Skyline directly to the fixed mounting points? If so what "Landing Pads" did you use?
Thanks
Tim

Are you set on Yakima? If not, check out the Rhino Rack options.

I run the Rhino Rack equivalent and I've been very happy with them. With RR, you have three parts to consider. 1) the fixed fit kit 2) the feet 3) the bars. Once the fit kit is installed, pulling the feet off is super simple. I have two sets that I swap between seasons. In the winter I run the 3 bars like you are requesting. When spring camping season hits, it takes me about 15 minutes to pull the 3 bars off and install the Pioneer platform. I do have 2 sets of 6 feet though so that helps make it go quicker. One set of feet stay attached to the bars and the other set stays on the platform.

https://www.etrailer.com/multi-product.aspx?pc1=RRVA137B-3&pc2=RRRCH6&pc3=RRRCP02-BK&VehicleID=20051825826&HHYear=2005&HHMake=Toyota&HHModel=Land+Cruiser

 

[Jfcol]

Are you set on Yakima? If not, check out the Rhino Rack options.

I run the Rhino Rack equivalent and I've been very happy with them. With RR, you have three parts to consider. 1) the fixed fit kit 2) the feet 3) the bars. Once the fit kit is installed, pulling the feet off is super simple. I have two sets that I swap between seasons. In the winter I run the 3 bars like you are requesting. When spring camping season hits, it takes me about 15 minutes to pull the 3 bars off and install the Pioneer platform. I do have 2 sets of 6 feet though so that helps make it go quicker. One set of feet stay attached to the bars and the other set stays on the platform.

https://www.etrailer.com/multi-product.aspx?pc1=RRVA137B-3&pc2=RRRCH6&pc3=RRRCP02-BK&VehicleID=20051825826&HHYear=2005&HHMake=Toyota&HHModel=Land+Cruiser

Another vote for Rhino Rack. I've had my 3 bar system on for about 2 years. It's been great and thoroughly tested with loads of 16' pressure treated lumber for a new deck.

 

[thetimmer]

Another vote for Rhino Rack. I've had my 3 bar system on for about 2 years. It's been great and thoroughly tested with loads of 16' pressure treated lumber for a new deck.

Thanks, guys, definitely looking at the Rhino Rack, but I have a bunch of existing Yakima accessories for bikes, skis, etc. I think I can probably mount them in the "channel". Do you have any pictures of rack mounted on the 100 series?

 

[jlm43]

I’ll try to get some pictures in the next day or two. The slot fits a 1-5/8” strut channel nut perfectly and is what RR used to attach accessories. If the Yakima accessories don’t work, just replace the nut with one that fits. I have some Thule ski racks that I use. I just had to remove the square bar attachment and drop a 6mm bolt through the rack and into a strut channel nut
The channel of the Vortex bars is the same working dimension as the slot in the Pioneer platform. Meaning the accessories of each will swap over.

Thanks, guys, definitely looking at the Rhino Rack, but I have a bunch of existing Yakima accessories for bikes, skis, etc. I think I can probably mount them in the "channel". Do you have any pictures of rack mounted on the 100 series?

 

[jlm43]

@thetimmer here’s some pictures of the RR Vortex bars and how the accessories mount up. The eyebolt is a 6mm thread but they make a 8mm version with matching nut as well. Buying the eye bolts and nuts off of Amazon or McMaster Carr is much cheaper than RR.

 

[MTrun]

Really appreciate the info here. I am also trying to decide between the Rhino and Yakima flat rack, but am not seeing options to mount the Yakima Lock N load flat rack to LC100 hard points. Hoping they close in on some options soon!

 

[Greenbean]

@thetimmer here’s some pictures of the RR Vortex bars and how the accessories mount up. The eyebolt is a 6mm thread but they make a 8mm version with matching nut as well. Buying the eye bolts and nuts off of Amazon or McMaster Carr is much cheaper than RR.

What width are your bars right here?

 

[alpinecowboy]

Apline Cowboy can you please expand on the "fixed point" option for the Land Cruiser 100 series. I cannot get the online fitment guide to recognize this option and am not sure what Land Pad I would need to mount directly to these fixed points. Thanks!

Sorry _ forgot to turn on updates via email on this thread and just came back to it to see a bunch of replies... "fixed point" means a drilled install or installing to a threaded mount point pre-existing in the roof of the vehicle. For the former, attachment method matters a lot (plus nut vs riv-nut, plus nut being strong I believe). If the vehicle has a pre-existing threaded mount point, as 80 series and newer cruisers do (and many 60 series if they had a factory rack) you can get an equally strong attachment. Anything that is drilling through the "ditch rail" is going to be very strong as long as you use a good attachment method as you are usually dealing with 3-4 overlapping pieces of sheet metal. Hope that makes sense.

 

[alpinecowboy]

Really appreciate the info here. I am also trying to decide between the Rhino and Yakima flat rack, but am not seeing options to mount the Yakima Lock N load flat rack to LC100 hard points. Hoping they close in on some options soon!

Yakima is testing it right now with Toyota. I have a friend in Dallas who is taking part in the test on his personal GX460. Rhino has a great solution that has been tested - the big issue is leaking into the cab through the headliner - so it is critical that you seal the holes properly when replacing the factory rack. This can be done with properly sized grommets or ass-loads of silicone. I have done the silicone method personally on a half dozen of my own Yota's and it worked great. I learned the hard way the first time I tried to skip it.

 

[alpinecowboy]

@thetimmer here’s some pictures of the RR Vortex bars and how the accessories mount up. The eyebolt is a 6mm thread but they make a 8mm version with matching nut as well. Buying the eye bolts and nuts off of Amazon or McMaster Carr is much cheaper than RR.

View attachment 2565444View attachment 2565445
View attachment 2565448
View attachment 2565446View attachment 2565447

Yeah man - looks good. You should see a lot of cross-compatibility with t-slot assuming you have the right standard. "It's all ball bearings these days" as Fletch once said. Kidding aside, I have even found some really cool accessories that fit right up to my t-slots across manufacturers in the kayak fishing world. A lot of the racking options on modern "big boat" kayaks use t-slot as well and there are a ton of great carriers, light mounts and other stuff that can either help you fit odd things to the roof and/or improve the campsite abilities of your rig with modular camp-site lights etc.

Rock on.

 

[alpinecowboy]

Alpine Cowboy I was wondering if you or anyone else has an update on how best to mount Yakima products directly to a Land Cruiser 100 series. I am interested in removing my factory rails fitting the Yakima Skyline bars directly to "fixed" mounting points. However, the Yakima website does not state that this is compatible. Although the Yakima Australia site shows that it is an option. Picture below.

I would love to know if anyone has put the Yakima Skyline directly to the fixed mounting points? If so what "Landing Pads" did you use?
Thanks
Tim

View attachment 2564696

Sorry if I am double answering, I missed a few posts... a kit is coming from Yakima to market next month I'm told for your vehicle. I have a friend doing a fitment consumer test now and he was very happy with it. Now.... what I REALLY want to see is Yakima bring over their full length ditch rail mounts from Australia - these are very similar in concept/application to what Rhino offers in their Backbone series which are very strong and well tested. Sorry for the super delayed replies.

 

[Greenbean]

Sorry _ forgot to turn on updates via email on this thread and just came back to it to see a bunch of replies... "fixed point" means a drilled install or installing to a threaded mount point pre-existing in the roof of the vehicle. For the former, attachment method matters a lot (plus nut vs riv-nut, plus nut being strong I believe). If the vehicle has a pre-existing threaded mount point, as 80 series and newer cruisers do (and many 60 series if they had a factory rack) you can get an equally strong attachment. Anything that is drilling through the "ditch rail" is going to be very strong as long as you use a good attachment method as you are usually dealing with 3-4 overlapping pieces of sheet metal. Hope that makes sense.

All 98-07 LX470 and LC100 vehicles have four sets of threaded options in the roof from the factory. Depending on year/trim/selling market determined which sets are used and or covered by trim. One set being a set of three on each side near the center of the vehicles roof aft of the sunroof opening.

This isn't my pic but helps a bunch!