This has not been my experience with 80 series brakes. I tore a front line at tellico a few years ago and lost all braking until I crimped off the torn front line.
Write-up: Toss the LSPV and install a manual proportioning valve (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter jcardona1
- Start date
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This has not been my experience with 80 series brakes. I tore a front line at tellico a few years ago and lost all braking until I crimped off the torn front line.
I have only tore rear lines so I cannot say in my experience on this one. But it is a function of the unit. I don't think your going to drive around with the front leaking but I believe it is to give you some time to stop.... Not days.
alia176
SILVER Star
Ditto, a buddy with a 100 series tore off the passenger front and i think he too lost all of his brakes.
I lost my front drop to the right wheel and while braking was extremely hampered the rears did function.
PARTS USED:
Wilwood 260-12627. It's threaded in M10x1.0 but the ports are bubble flare, not inverted flare. More on this later.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/wil-260-12627
Two of these 12" lines with the M10 inverted flare fittings. You should be able to find these at any local parts store
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/d....oap?ck=Search_N0834_-1_-1&pt=N0834&ppt=C0066
One of these, just for the nut fittings. The tubing was not used
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/AGS1/PAE308.oap?ck=Search_pae308_-1_-1&keyword=pae308
@jcardona1 Sorry to ask this as I think I know the answer but I feel like you are the resident expert on the subject, I'm readying myself to delete both LSPV and ABS without installing a bias valve once I finish my front brakes tomorrow. And I am making a trip to the dealer in the morning to pick up some bits should I be picking anything up to make this happen, I know you did the delete in 2 separate stages and I believe I read your post in this thread clearly
https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/i-need-a-brake-upgrade.760467/page-3
which led me to believe I wont need any additional parts deleting both at the same time if I reuse some lines, the T and L. Thanks for all your informative posts on varying mods I've read many and will be doing a similar monstaliner project soon on my LX, chip samples are on the way. Going to have a lot of metal tape on this thing.
Wilwood 260-12627. It's threaded in M10x1.0 but the ports are bubble flare, not inverted flare. More on this later.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/wil-260-12627
Two of these 12" lines with the M10 inverted flare fittings. You should be able to find these at any local parts store
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/d....oap?ck=Search_N0834_-1_-1&pt=N0834&ppt=C0066
One of these, just for the nut fittings. The tubing was not used
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/AGS1/PAE308.oap?ck=Search_pae308_-1_-1&keyword=pae308
@jcardona1 Sorry to ask this as I think I know the answer but I feel like you are the resident expert on the subject, I'm readying myself to delete both LSPV and ABS without installing a bias valve once I finish my front brakes tomorrow. And I am making a trip to the dealer in the morning to pick up some bits should I be picking anything up to make this happen, I know you did the delete in 2 separate stages and I believe I read your post in this thread clearly
https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/i-need-a-brake-upgrade.760467/page-3
which led me to believe I wont need any additional parts deleting both at the same time if I reuse some lines, the T and L. Thanks for all your informative posts on varying mods I've read many and will be doing a similar monstaliner project soon on my LX, chip samples are on the way. Going to have a lot of metal tape on this thing.
maxamillion2345
Franken-80
@jcardona1
Why not just run a 3/8 - 24 inverted double flare willwood PV, cut your stock lines, slip on some 3/8-24 line nuts, re-flare with a double flare tool? Seems easier...
I use this one, works awesome.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/oes-24364?seid=srese1&gclid=CJ7N6s2j08ACFRFcfgodcYMAIA
Why not just run a 3/8 - 24 inverted double flare willwood PV, cut your stock lines, slip on some 3/8-24 line nuts, re-flare with a double flare tool? Seems easier...
I use this one, works awesome.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/oes-24364?seid=srese1&gclid=CJ7N6s2j08ACFRFcfgodcYMAIA
- Thread starter
- #27
Yes that's correct! If you're simply deleting ABS and LSPV and not adding a manual valve then you don't need to buy any extra parts. You can do the whole bypass with the hardware that was deleted. Good luck!
- Thread starter
- #28
That's looks like a nifty tool, I'll remember that one. But I guess it really doesn't matter with valve you use because regardless you have to cut and flare. As far as I know there's no manual valve with inverted flare ports in the correct Toyota thread, right? So we essentially end up doing the same thing, modifying the factory lines.
maxamillion2345
Franken-80
Yeah, just figured inverted flare is easier and 3/8-24 stuff is common and will go right on the stock lines. Avoid all that bubble flare garbage that way hah.
I ran all new 3/16 hardline with 3/8-24 stuff and the stock metric linenuts at the master cylinder but I have chevy axles. Point is you can just cut and reflare with the m10x1.0 on one end and a 3/8-24 on the other.
I ran all new 3/16 hardline with 3/8-24 stuff and the stock metric linenuts at the master cylinder but I have chevy axles. Point is you can just cut and reflare with the m10x1.0 on one end and a 3/8-24 on the other.
- Thread starter
- #30
Guess I should add this info here too from my build thread. After this mod I went all the way and deleted ABS in my truck. Here's the write up for that update
ABS DELETE
A few months I ago I tossed the factory LSPV and used a manual proportioning valve in its place. Well today I finally went all the way and got rid of ABS. I haven't tried it out yet - still waiting for a helper to bleed the brakes. I really need to get me a power bleeder. But judging from feedback I've heard I'm sure this will be a big improvement in braking power and getting rid of the spongy feeling.
Getting rid of the ABS brain leaves a giant open space in the fender well - so much more room for activities! So I relocated the charcoal canister and used the remaining space to mount my Blue Sea fuse block. Here's a photo of the final layout:
Here's how it looked before:
Started by ordering a brake tee for the Toyota brake lines. I gave away my factory tee to another member, lesson learned! Keep all your spare parts. Reminder, Toyota brake fittings are 10mm x 1.0 inverted flare. Got the tee for $8 from here: http://www.lowrangeoffroad.com/index.php/universal-brake-line-tees.html
The tee is used to tie the two front brakes lines together; left and right.
The Willwood manual proportioning valve from my last project is simply sitting by the booster.
I then took the factory charcoal canister bracket and cut off its rear support leg. I mounted it to two holes leftover from the ABS pump. One on the floor and one up behind the AC lines. Worked great! Two bolts is definitely sturdy enough to hold this thing in place.
With the ABS pump out of the way and the charcoal canister relocated I had more room to finally make a good mount for my Blue Sea fuse block. Used some 3/16" flat bar and fabbed up a mount using existing holes from where the charcoal canister was. The spot was just right for this!
Close-up of my bird turd welding and fabrication. The mount actually has two support legs.
ABS DELETE
A few months I ago I tossed the factory LSPV and used a manual proportioning valve in its place. Well today I finally went all the way and got rid of ABS. I haven't tried it out yet - still waiting for a helper to bleed the brakes. I really need to get me a power bleeder. But judging from feedback I've heard I'm sure this will be a big improvement in braking power and getting rid of the spongy feeling.
Getting rid of the ABS brain leaves a giant open space in the fender well - so much more room for activities! So I relocated the charcoal canister and used the remaining space to mount my Blue Sea fuse block. Here's a photo of the final layout:
Here's how it looked before:
Started by ordering a brake tee for the Toyota brake lines. I gave away my factory tee to another member, lesson learned! Keep all your spare parts. Reminder, Toyota brake fittings are 10mm x 1.0 inverted flare. Got the tee for $8 from here: http://www.lowrangeoffroad.com/index.php/universal-brake-line-tees.html
The tee is used to tie the two front brakes lines together; left and right.
The Willwood manual proportioning valve from my last project is simply sitting by the booster.
I then took the factory charcoal canister bracket and cut off its rear support leg. I mounted it to two holes leftover from the ABS pump. One on the floor and one up behind the AC lines. Worked great! Two bolts is definitely sturdy enough to hold this thing in place.
With the ABS pump out of the way and the charcoal canister relocated I had more room to finally make a good mount for my Blue Sea fuse block. Used some 3/16" flat bar and fabbed up a mount using existing holes from where the charcoal canister was. The spot was just right for this!
Close-up of my bird turd welding and fabrication. The mount actually has two support legs.
alia176
SILVER Star
Let us know how the braking feels now!
Man I can wait to see how this works on my rig. I pulled the ABS and LSPV while I had my motor out for my conversion. I will say that made it a lot easier to do. I was able to just sit in the engine bay and do a couple of the lines.
itbrokeagain
SILVER Star
Why not mount your proportioning valve where you can access it from the cab? I would think it would be easier to play with it and dial it in that way
alia176
SILVER Star
Because this ain't a Jeep !!! Seriously, how often does one need to adjust the proportioning valve once it has been set? Lot of extra plumbing required for very little gain IMHO. One thing I'm curious about is whether there is a huge need for this valve in the first place, since some fellas are running 50/50 split w/o any adverse affects.
So with the current brake thread going on I searched for jcardonas abs delete with much suprise there is no closing story to this thread....SO Jose what was the difference in braking after the delete.
- Thread starter
- #36
It made a big difference. After deleting ABS and the LSPV the pedal felt much firmer than it did before. I have a feeling these old ABS pumps are starting to fail and/or have air trapped inside that's impossible to bleed out. Once you start going into the world of big tires, delete this crap and never look back.
Thanks for the input. Would you say that the prop. Valve is not really a necessity? Do you have it fully open? I'm sick if my brakes.
Oh....and 3 link coming up for you..lucky! I might get the urge thus winter. But no $ for the kit. Would likely build it cheap as possible.
- Thread starter
- #38
Can't wait for the link kit! I'd say the manual valve is optional. I've had it fully open this whole time and never felt that I needed to send less braking power to the rear.
One more question. I see you deleted lsvp first then abs. Was it noticeably better (than just lsvp delete) when you did the abs as well?
Second this. I deleted without the valve and it's been a great improvement. Very little nose dive during even firm braking.
