Worth restoring? Rust.. (1 Viewer)

[fj40openair]

Hello All,

I bought a 1978 FJ40, and though it has lots going for it, it may have been a mistake.

It certainly needs a new tub, which I am game to take on. I have a welder now and want to get to work soon.

However, I'm starting to wonder if this particular FJ40 is worth it. I sanded a few areas of the frame and there clearly is some pitting. I don't know enough to tell if this is significant.

The hard top will need some repair at the corners near the door, but otherwise looks quite good.

I'd appreciate any advice from those with experience!

Again I am up for taking the body off, treating the frame and installing a new tub. Given that, is this worth it? Alternatively I will part it out, and go shopping again. Experience is the best teacher.

I can take a video tomorrow and upload that, so you can see more.

 

[fj40openair]

A few of it's better qualities.

 

[charliemeyer007]

I think the frame is fine. Could be sand blasted and painted. There are weld in panels for about every body piece/section.

lots of people have posted great build threads if you look around here.

 

[Wasatch Jay]

Impressions from the photos:

- The green paint job was not well done, and what it's covering up is unknown.

- The photo of the interior shows a remarkably nice and unmolested vehicle.

- Photos of the frame do show some rust, but from what I can see it's not horrific by any stretch. I would say no worse than average, based on what I've seen.

I don't know what your plans are as far as how far you want to go with a restoration. But I think if you strip it to the frame and have the frame professionally sandblasted, you will be surprised how nice it will look, and with a little effort, once painted it will look very nice indeed.

My opinion only, but I think it would be a shame to part out rather than restore this vehicle. Many, many project threads were started with way worse and they turned out well.

 

[John McVicker]

Very much agree with @charliemeyer007. Your frame is in very good shape.

 

[60 40]

That will buff right out .......but no really frame looks decent and could clean up just fine. There's a strange dark spot in this one area that looks kinda funky but hard to tell if there are body issues.

Oh and welcome

 

[John McVicker]

Another way of saying it…and I’m not in any way trying to be a smart ass or sexist.

But if that frame was on a 50 year old lady…that would easily qualify as a 9 out of 10.

 

[zerotreedelta]

Could use a little love, but looks like a pretty good starting point.

I would've killed for a frame that clean here in the salt region. Anything's doable.

 

[fj40openair]

Hey this is super encouraging, thanks you guys! I very much wanna keep it and do it right, so this makes me happy.

@Wasatch Jay, yes the paint is awful, and good observations, I appreciate it. I do plan to have frame professionally sandblasted, strip panels that I think are savable, and go from there.

Some things I’m a bit nervous about, like how to make sure the drive train is good to go, etc. But I know I can find a ton of info I hear and elsewhere.

Wooo!!

 

[Grayscale]

The factory floor needs to not be covered. Rust starts from the inside of the tub, or it did on mine. I understand the restoration-look, but, my truck needs to live in the weather, not the garage. Every automobile I've seen disassembled usually has thermal padding that keeps vapors from forming moisture, under the floor mats. But the FJ40, without thermal insulation and it's correct floor-mat condition was destined to rot from the factory, add on top of that some missing weatherstrip or leaking cowl, and you sweep up steel and collect it in a dustpan before long.

The rear body mounts usually need replacement. Both rust and soft parts. This truck might need such service? I can't tell. Body mounts can help with noise. Are there cracks around the screw heads on the top of the tub rear pan? They usually crack when the rear sill has lost its grip. Structural concerns with body mounts, and hardware on the body, are always valid, imo, regardless of how 'restored' the truck is.

Sanding, wire brushing, and addressing the frame with spray paint is really no big deal. It usually involves minimal masking, etc. Wet sand, by hand, as much as possible to avoid breathing dust. Only remove loose material, make it mostly metallic. Just don't paint it more than one solid layer. Use good name-brand, all-position paint. Rustoleum Engine paint (black) resists oil, gas and heat (up to 500*F). After it is cured for a while, keep it clean with car-wash detergent. Use paste wax, fresh motor oil (or fluid-film), and wash with detergent - typical frame care.

A thin, yet deliberate coat of enamel, covering what was formerly rust, isn't cheating. Remove loose material, protect what is exposed by covering it, and repeat. It shouldn't be something that needs major resources, just a bit of regular maintenance. Covering some rust (after prep work removed the loose stuff) with enamel, on the frame, isn't a problem, in my experience. Just don't be upset if it needs more sanding a few years later - removing loose material and replenishing a thin layer cheap paint is better than exposing broad-expanses of contiguous fresh steel. But, the result of welding, grinding, heavy sanding, abrasive blasting primes the steel for new corrosion, for resons I don't understand. There was mill-scale which protected quite a bit of the original truck's frame and body. After that is gone, stick to regular maintenance, don't sweat some of the red stuff (iron oxide is porous and absorbs auto wax or oil better than unrusted steel). Rust removes from the enamel-surface with baking soda mixed with a bit of water to make it a paste, and steel wool.

This truck looks fine, from what I see. They can handle being used. I'd check that your doors haven't collected organic material near the bottom drain holes, and / or clean.

Welcome to Mud!

 

[fj40openair]

@zerotreedelta , this makes me feel much better about my frame! Man nice work.

Did you end up replacing all the panels except for the hard top?

 

[wimberosa]

frame is fine....you're in good shape. I'm not sure even about much tub work. Investigate stopping
rust solutions without cutting and welding. I'd be driving that 40 instead of tearing it apart.

 

[zerotreedelta]

@zerotreedelta , this makes me feel much better about my frame! Man nice work.

Did you end up replacing all the panels except for the hard top?

I ended up having to do a 3/4 replacement tub (we'd patched up the tub twice before), replacement front doors (they had been cut off and redone once already as well), and replacement front fenders. Everything else got patched as needed. The frame needed the rear tails rebuilt and a few patches in the rear crook.

It's been in the family since new, so sentimental value overrode practicality...but it wasn't a bad project overall, they're fairly simple rigs.

 

[fj40openair]

@Grayscale , thanks for all the great info!

Basically the whole tub needs replacing. The support brackets underneath are rotted away, and the panel above is contouring a bit because all the pressure is on it. I’m committed to getting a whole new tub a I believe. Maybe there’s a tiny chance the wheel wells can be saved, but at that point it’s just silly not to replace it all.

Interesting info about complete sand blasting versus wet sanding and less invasive treatment. I will read further.

.

 

[fj40openair]

I ended up having to do a 3/4 replacement tub (we'd patched up the tub twice before), replacement front doors (they had been cut off and redone once already as well), and replacement front fenders. Everything else got patched as needed. The frame needed the rear tails rebuilt and a few patches in the rear crook.

It's been in the family since new, so sentimental value overrode practicality...but it wasn't a bad project overall, they're fairly simple rigs.

Very cool. What a great rig to have in the family since new.

 

[fj40openair]

frame is fine....you're in good shape. I'm not sure even about much tub work. Investigate stopping
rust solutions without cutting and welding. I'd be driving that 40 instead of tearing it apart.

I added some more photos in the next post: the supports that connect to the frame attachment bolts are totally gone. I’m definitely going to consider every option I can to keep this on the road though, so I’m always open to suggestions.

 

[fj40openair]

I added some more photos in the next post: the supports that connect to the frame attachment bolts are totally gone. I’m definitely going to consider every option I can to keep this on the road though, so I’m always open to suggestions.

Err, a few posts back.