Builds Won a '74 40 on a coin toss...

[ginmtb]

I took out the wiper switch and disassembled it and cleaned up all the metal contact surfaces. Pretty simple switch - but I still don't get two speeds or any action when I pull the switch out one click. I found a new oem replacement switch for $30 so figure I will try that out.

 

[ginmtb]

Well I didn't do my homework very well - the VC120 is much larger in diameter than the original charcoal canister. Bracket won't work. Have not seen any posts on how people are mounting it but I think I found a pretty good solution. A bit expensive for a bracket but would make for a clean install. Under $20. You would just have to bend the bottom tabs slight as the bolt holes are about 4.75" apart and I'm guessing the holes on the bracket are about 5.5" apart. Should be able to bend pretty easily.

 

[ginmtb]

Here is my $5 solution to mount the Duralast VC120 charcoal canister. It is a 4" pipe/duct hanger from Home Depot. Had to bend the tabs a little but overall is a clean fit. Be careful it is easy to over tighten the clamp on the plastic canister.

Got my wipers working correctly now too thanks to @Coolerman's wonderful website. He explained the reversed wires and that was exactly my problem. Slow and fast speeds aren't horribly different but nice to have it working correctly.

 

[ginmtb]

Thought I'd share a better photo of my rebuilt wiper motor and mirror (with the flash on it shows the metallic in the paint better). I repainted the mirror head with plastic/vinyl paint and that turned out pretty nicely as well. No photo of the back side of it.

So I'm still having pressurization problems with my new fuel tank. This despite the new canister. I wonder if there is a blockage in the vent line? Is that possible? Perhaps from overfilling?

 

[ginmtb]

Here are the two speeds of the wiper motor:



And I tested the vent line for blockage and air blows through just fine. The check valve sounded like it was working too. So not sure why it isn't venting properly. I took off my new OEM cap and put the old non-OEM one back on to test to see if that helps. I'm guessing the pinholes were the "vents" on the old tank.

 

[ginmtb]

Started a thread to help with the tank pressure:

Another pressurized gas tank thread

 

[ginmtb]

Finished the jack - unfortunately my JB Weld repair on the crack didn't hold when I tightened it down. I think if I had put a gasket between the base and the top piece it probably would've held up. Oh well, hope I never have to use it. Would hate to dirty it up lol.

 

[ginmtb]

Here's all the jack related stuff!

 

[ginmtb]

Decided to replace the original wheel cylinders with new Japanese made aftermarket units from @cruiseroutfit. Thanks! Looking forward to improved braking and easier adjusting. I'll save the disc brakes for the 75. Also I'm replacing the original hoses with SS hoses. I believe that is the last critical rubber I haven't replaced. That should provide slightly better feel at the pedal and peace of mind.

And yes I spent all that time painting my OEM jack and crank - only to buy a Hi-Lift. Again, the OEM jack will find its home in the 75 most likely. I like the step mounted position but it looks like I will need to mount on the driver's side since my antenna is in the way of the hinge bracket screws. Looking forward to fabbing a little bracket!

Last shot is a tshirt I recently got - loved the updated graphic that TLCA came up with for their 40 year anniversary.

 

[Solace in Solitude]

I'm not sure if it will clear your antennae, but rotate the Hi-lift 180*, on the passenger step, and allow the large runner to fit under the lower, leading edge of the door... You can see it, if you zoom this picture... May help...

 

[ginmtb]

I'm not sure if it will clear your antennae, but rotate the Hi-lift 180*, on the passenger step, and allow the large runner to fit under the lower, leading edge of the door... You can see it, if you zoom this picture... May help...

View attachment 1319780

Danny I tried that and it doesn't clear my door. Not sure why - that was the initial plan. I may have to try to angle it some. But I've seen it both ways. I would like to put it on the passenger side but my antenna is funky. Looks like a dealer added option but original to vehicle. Maybe a new antenna is in order... What did you use to mount yours?

 

[Solace in Solitude]

I cNt tell from the picture why it wouldn't clear the door... The large runner looks like it will go right under the door...

I used a lockable FJMount... But, I don't know if they are made for anything other than J**p anymore...

 

[ginmtb]

I cNt tell from the picture why it wouldn't clear the door... The large runner looks like it will go right under the door...

I used a lockable FJMount... But, I don't know if they are made for anything other than J**p anymore...

Doe the vertical part of the hi-lift angle slightly backwards? I think that would help the large runner clear the door. But when the vertical part is straight up, it hits the door.

Yes, the FJMount is NLA for Cruiser. I figure I can fab up something very similar.

 

[Solace in Solitude]

Doesn't look like it to me, Mike. Maybe it's a slight difference between 74/75 and 78...

Can you grind the leading edge (with large runner facing rear of truck) of the Jack foot down enough to fit?

I use a larger footprint under my jack, when jacking up 44.

 

[ginmtb]

Never been a huge fan of the old antenna - not sure when or who installed it, but it was looking pretty tired. But it worked so I just left it. Well with the addition of a Hi-Lift, the antenna got in the way of a good mounting location. I had an aftermarket stock-like antenna in the 75 box so figured I would use that for now (and save $50+ on a new OEM one).

Old antenna removed - those are pretty big holes!

New antenna installed in the main stock location. Looks pretty good.

Now the plan was to weld the holes shut and fabricate a bracket to secure the Hi-Lift. But those holes present an interesting thought - should I use them to secure the Hi-Lift? The back is very accessible - I could fab a plate with threaded studs sticking out and basically secure the lift with them. Too cheap looking?

 

[jocww]

Gin, how much do you think you have in your 40 now??? Things going to be brand new by the time your done with it!!

 

[ginmtb]

I definitely have spent more on the upgrades then I spent on the initial purchase. Doing most of the work myself has saved me a lot. But some stuff is just expensive, no way around it.

I "think" after I redo the brakes that probably will do it. I'm not going to paint it. I am overdue for a visit out to @orangefj45's shop though as I'd like to get some pesky oil leaks fixed. Hopefully soon.

 

[algeeba]

So how has your Cruiser been running without the EVAP check valve you removed?

 

[wscbill]

Finished the jack - unfortunately my JB Weld repair on the crack didn't hold when I tightened it down. I think if I had put a gasket between the base and the top piece it probably would've held up. Oh well, hope I never have to use it. Would hate to dirty it up lol.

View attachment 1317451

Nice work on the jack. As pictured, the body of the jack is not aligned with the base. Rotate the body clockwise, 1 screw position so it looks like this.

 

[ginmtb]

So how has your Cruiser been running without the EVAP check valve you removed?

Runs great no issues! And no more pressure.