Builds Wompom's Painfully Slow Rebuild Now Part II!

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Valid point. It's definitely nice right now having a pretty light stock rig but i know once i do a bumper and winch, drawers and a fridge for camping that its just gonna be heavy. Doing the light rig is awesome but i want to be able to live out of this thing eventually on long trips.

I'm really trying to figure out the headache of all the other issues you get from lifting over 1-2".

Another idea for long trips is to build up a trailer, keeps the weight down low and off of the truck.

This thread is a must read for anyone who wants to "build" their cruiser. Some reoccurring themes are wanting to be closer to stock and wishing that they didn't build so big when it was more about looks than functionality. Also to try out someone else's setup before doing the same to yours.

If I was to start all over again, I would...
 
Another idea for long trips is to build up a trailer, keeps the weight down low and off of the truck.

This thread is a must read for anyone who wants to "build" their cruiser. Some reoccurring themes are wanting to be closer to stock and wishing that they didn't build so big when it was more about looks than functionality. Also to try out someone else's setup before doing the same to yours.

If I was to start all over again, I would...

Right, i actually love that thread. I've been around long enough to go through that whole thread which originally made me want to do minor lift or stiffer stock height + 33s, but the more i go out and mess around the more i want 35s but also hate the idea of castor correction. BUT that seems like no matter what you do it ends up needing to be addressed unless at stock height.
The main reason i'm looking into the OME options is that i can get a deal on a setup from a friend. Was originally thinking Dobinsons stock height (C222 and C223 come to mind) but with a good deal on the bp-51s and some stiffer springs i think it'd be fun.

Trailer is not in the cards... yet
 
Now cooking up some crazy ideas that may be a bad idea suspension wise.
I have an opportunity to get a good deal on a set of BP-51 but wondering if i want to stay with OME springs. I know they were designed to work together but i'm leaning towards wanting a dual rate spring as I wont always be completely loaded like i would on a trip.

The long length BP-51s are:
Front: BP5160014
extended length 26"
compressed 15"

Rear: BP5160015
Extended length 26"
compressed 16"

I'm curious how they'd pair with something like a dual rate dobinsons or if they'd sit improperly in their travel. Need to consult some suspension gurus. I'm also wondering if the shocks wouldn't like that since they were designed to work with the OME linear rate springs, though they do work with the 861/862 dual rate OME coils.

I was planning on going dobinsons or slinky but not sure i can pass up the deal on BP51s.

I'm definitely going to have a front bumper, MT sliders, rear drawers and fridge, eventually a winch and dual batts, and sometimes my RTT.
On trips i'll have two german shepherds and my girlfriend, so shes gonna be heavy. No way around it. Not going to be crawling anything crazy or the rubicon but will definitely be doing a bit more than cruising up fire roads.

Anyone else gone down this wormhole?
 
Honestly - I don't know. Somewhere around 6k if i had to guess. My logic was with the car purchase i'm still under 10k for a sub 100k rust free locked rig.
But i did a lot of "while you're in there" since it had 84k on the clock. I wanted this to go for the foreseeable future and used ALL OEM except for bearings as i trust Clevites to be just as good.

I did:
  • New bearings & rings.
  • Full head Deck tank & rebuild
  • Decked the block
  • Slight cylinder hone (they looked great, but had done since i wanted to do rings)
  • Every single gasket and hose replaced in the engine bay and all the way to the rear heater (besides hard lines, which were inspected)
  • new OEM radiator
  • used oil cooler
  • Front axle rebuild
  • Had an oil drain fitting TIG'd to the upper pan in case i decide to turbo in the future
  • Trans input seal
  • New driveshaft hardware
  • New wire harness
  • Front/rear axle/tcase fluids
  • Donor longblock & head since mine had a massive hole in it
  • Lots of new random hardware as i saw fit
  • Lots of tools i did't already own
  • Lots of things i'm sure i've already forgotten
I could have done it way cheaper i'm sure. But i wanted OEM for 99% of stuff for A ) the potential resale value and B ) to not have to worry for a long while. I could total all my invoices from Beno and get close to what it was based on the other big costs i know off the top of my head if anyone is really interested.

Here's a current pic at my new place with no real garage:bang: after a fresh wax last weekend....
View attachment 1825346

Wompom,

I have about 250K miles on my '97 and planning my engine rebuild.

Can you pls give me your suggestions on what other OEM parts I may need for a refresh based on your own rebuild experience?

New OEM short block from Toyota



Rear Main Seal - Toyota (90311-99009)

Injector - Toyota (23209-74080) qty 6

I've already replaced some other OEM parts based on my thread here.


Thanks!
 
Wompom,

I have about 250K miles on my '97 and planning my engine rebuild.

Can you pls give me your suggestions on what other OEM parts I may need for a refresh based on your own rebuild experience?

New OEM short block from Toyota



Rear Main Seal - Toyota (90311-99009)

Injector - Toyota (23209-74080) qty 6

I've already replaced some other OEM parts based on my thread here.


Thanks!

Don't have time to flip through that now but I'd think of every piece you plan to take off and whether or not the joint will need a gasket or new bolts.
I have pages and pages of invoices from my orders somewhere.
Off the top of my head though-

I did the whole engine seal kit, plus every hose and rubber bit besides engine mounts which now I regret not doing.
Bulk vacuum line
Fuel filter is easier when it's apart.
Sparks
Trans input seal since they'll be separated and it's 3 min of work.
Did my heater valve as well.
Idler pulley
Belts
I replaced all my timing components since I was in there
Most stuff probably didn't neeeeed to be done but it's a lot easier to do when it's all apart.
Lemme think a bit more.
 
298k on my splendidly running 1993 with plans only of driving and driving and driving.........
 
Why the hand throttle?
I get it for a rock crawler w/ a manual trans, but not sure why for and automatic.
great rebuild and info! just curious on the hand throttle....
 
Why the hand throttle?
I get it for a rock crawler w/ a manual trans, but not sure why for and automatic.
great rebuild and info! just curious on the hand throttle....

I don't have a hand throttle but a few uses come to mind:

- Increase RPM to keep battery charged while or after winching
- On board air system, higher RPM for more air output

If I recall the hand throttle is more to hold a higher steady RPM than to actually modulate engine speed for crawling or driving.
 
Why the hand throttle?
I get it for a rock crawler w/ a manual trans, but not sure why for and automatic.
great rebuild and info! just curious on the hand throttle....

Exactly as Zack put above.
I got it with plans to eventually run a york OBA.
It's also useful when jumping someone else. Can set the rpm to 3k to up the alt output, etc.
 
@Wompom

Just wanted to let you know the original head off your truck lives again in my LX450. My head gasket blew a few weeks ago so my plan to replace the head with the one I got from you came to life. I checked flatness and it was withing 0.002" so I cleaned the valves in an ultrasonic cleaner, replaced the stem seals, replaced one shim and bolted it in. About 200 miles in and it seems to be working just fine.

Tom
 
@Wompom

Just wanted to let you know the original head off your truck lives again in my LX450. My head gasket blew a few weeks ago so my plan to replace the head with the one I got from you came to life. I checked flatness and it was withing 0.002" so I cleaned the valves in an ultrasonic cleaner, replaced the stem seals, replaced one shim and bolted it in. About 200 miles in and it seems to be working just fine.

Tom
Thats awesome Tom!
I honestly wish i had used that head on my build :doh: . Was so focused on getting it done I didn't think about the fact that i probably could have saved a few hundred bucks using that one since it only had 80k on it!
Glad it worked out for ya!
 
Was having intermittent starting issues.
Click click no start randomly. Would turn key to an audible click and get nothing. Usually started 2nd try.
Then it turned into the 10th click.
Then the starter wouldn't disengage.
Had the parts on hand. Under 1 hour to rebuild including removal, install of new contacts and plunger and reinstalling the starter. Another job I wish I had smaller hands for.

20191229_115051.jpg
20191229_115057.jpg
20191229_115220.jpg


Manual calls for a press to hold contacts down.
I just pushed down on them with the butt end of a screwdriver in my lap while I tightened them making sure they were flat/even.
Love that these can be serviced instead of replaced.
 
Finally took an hour to put my ARB Winch bumper on.
Now I just need a winch.
20200120_115922.jpg

20200120_133116.jpg

20200120_132944.jpg


Next up is a full set of bp-51s with heavies up front and meds in rear. Turbo kit ships next week!
Working outside in Seattle in the winter is not exactly motivational.
 
Main bolts all in spec and being reused. View attachment 1694559 Crank set in place. Definitely recommend a second set of hands here. View attachment 1694560 Mains all plastigaged out right at .002 with standard size bearings. View attachment 1694561 My best friend spent 8 hours cleaning pistons. They looked brand new when he was done.
View attachment 1694562 Rings on - not oriented yet. View attachment 1694563
Do you remember if your pistons came with black sprayed moly coated skirts?
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom