ARCHIVE Wits' End York On-Board-Air Schematic and Discussion (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter NLXTACY
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- oba onboard air wits end york
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890man
SILVER Star
Haha, ok, i get it. Yea, it does suck to have your hood crash down on your hose. The air hose too. 
NLXTACY
Wits' End
- Thread starter
- #43
Haha, ok, i get it. Yea, it does suck to have your hood crash down on your hose. The air hose too.
If you are lucky its just the hose. The other issue is pulling on the QC while filling up the tires. You are whipping around the hose going from tire to tire and its easy to stress the manifold and then damage the pressure switch. Its good practice to just keep it separate.
Well hell. I guess I'll keep looking for a combination kit. If anyone has a link to one or a good write up on rebuilding one please post it up! Thanks!One for a cleaner look.
According to CCI (the owners of the York design now):
Gaskets — Neoprene composite fiber gaskets used
to seal base plate and valve plate. Rubber coated
metal gaskets used to seal cylinder head.
890man
SILVER Star
I always route the hose out the front and lower the hood so this doesn't happen. When you have a solution, I'll order. QC, bracket and dust cover. Would you just use bulkhead fittings?
I like push to connect fittings for the air. I use them on my automation in the shop. How do you feel about these for a mobile application?
I like push to connect fittings for the air. I use them on my automation in the shop. How do you feel about these for a mobile application?
890man
SILVER Star
Use caution. All of this talk about OBA will cause your tires to deflate. It happened to me this morning. I was at a stoplight about 100 yards from work. Just prior I had heard a strange noise while moving but decided to keep going because I was so close. Light turns green and the problem was immediately evident. Out comes the hose, compressor on, revs set to 1800 and filled up in no time. Only missed two light cycles. I made it to work where it sits. A tire change will happen after work and I will figure out what happened.
I don't think that they have oil control rings because they blow so much oil out. It doesn't matter in an AC application since the oil circulates throughout the system. There is an oil passage way from the discharge side back into crank case. I tried plugging it but it didn't make a difference in the amount of oil it blew out. Even with a coalescing filter and a tank, it blows oil vapor out of the line. This is great for running air tools but not so great for airing up anything you don't want to stink of oil vapor when you deflate them, like water toys or things that oil will degrade.
I tried that oil plug trick as well and it made no difference. They are designed to pass oil as stated.
However, if you keep the RPM at idle, very little oil gets discharged. At 2K rpm it really squirts. I have found that 1100-1200 rpm is just about perfect for running an impact and quickly airing up tires, assuming you have a tank. To run an air grinder, you'll want to be up around 2K rpm.
However, if you keep the RPM at idle, very little oil gets discharged. At 2K rpm it really squirts. I have found that 1100-1200 rpm is just about perfect for running an impact and quickly airing up tires, assuming you have a tank. To run an air grinder, you'll want to be up around 2K rpm.
I've been doing research in preparation to go hunting for my York, how much importance should I put on getting a long stroke vs a short stroke? Do I want AMC style or ford style fittings?
NLXTACY
Wits' End
- Thread starter
- #54
You want the long stroke (210). The medium stroke (209) is ok but the short stroke (206) is a no go.
Volvo and AMC hose connections run horizontally across the top of the York, while Ford hose connections stick straight out. At this time I don't think this will be an issue since I've sourced fittings for o-ring, Rotolock and flange type.
TrickyT
Hate that mud...
When I built my York system many years ago the various articles/threads I read recommended not just a check valve, but an "unloader" style check valve, like this: CDI CONTROL DEVICES Unloader,Load Genie - Pneumatic Check Valves - 5A704|PA12-1A - Grainger Industrial Supply. This removes the pressure on the York side of the system so that when the compressor switches on it's got zero pressure opposing it.
Another recommendation I followed was to get a coalescing filter with a sinthered bronze filter element as it could handle the high temperatures better and still do a good job at filtering. Took me a while to source one, but it's done a good job at keeping out the oil.
And 2x on what @jonheld said -- the oil and water you're filtering out is really funky and you don't want to be dumping that back into the compressor via a return line. I usually run mine at ~1,200 rpm to keep the oil output at a minimum.
Another recommendation I followed was to get a coalescing filter with a sinthered bronze filter element as it could handle the high temperatures better and still do a good job at filtering. Took me a while to source one, but it's done a good job at keeping out the oil.
And 2x on what @jonheld said -- the oil and water you're filtering out is really funky and you don't want to be dumping that back into the compressor via a return line. I usually run mine at ~1,200 rpm to keep the oil output at a minimum.
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If you are getting your York at the Pick N Pull, get the hose ends too. It makes hooking it up easier because the metal discharge end can be readily adapted to compression or NPT fittings and the inlet hose can connect directly to an air cleaner.
There is no need to recycle the oil on a York because the crank case holds a lot of oil. On rotary compressors, like GM or Sanden, there is no sump, so recycling the oil is a good idea. A little water is not as big of a problem as a lack of oil. You plumb a capillary line with an inside diameter of .020 from the separator to the inlet so that under pressure it drips a drop or two or three a minute.
NLXTACY
Wits' End
- Thread starter
- #58
Posted in the other thread but figured I'd post here as well:
So thanks to @bulhas ruining my relationship with Parker after I asked about what was brought up...
I stopped by Swagelok this morning because lucky me, they are only 30mins from my house woohoo!
The quality is there but the sheer amount of options can't be touched compared to Parker. Parker is just massive. Swagelok isn't but holy hell their work is phenomenal. I have so many ideas now. Custom tube bending, orbital welding. Cool stuff. So after two hours discussing my projects I am on a great bath to getting kits together. I'm still trying to source the Coalescing filter I can be happy with but I think I have everything worked out...in my head anyway
More info coming in the next few days/weeks~ish
So thanks to @bulhas ruining my relationship with Parker after I asked about what was brought up...
I stopped by Swagelok this morning because lucky me, they are only 30mins from my house woohoo!
The quality is there but the sheer amount of options can't be touched compared to Parker. Parker is just massive. Swagelok isn't but holy hell their work is phenomenal. I have so many ideas now. Custom tube bending, orbital welding. Cool stuff. So after two hours discussing my projects I am on a great bath to getting kits together. I'm still trying to source the Coalescing filter I can be happy with but I think I have everything worked out...in my head anyway
More info coming in the next few days/weeks~ish
alia176
SILVER Star
I didn't read the entire thread so forgive me if this was discussed already. Since this thread is about schematics, I thought I'd throw in my .02 cents worth with respect to the electrical wiring.
We all know that a pressure switch is required so that the comp will know when it cut in/cut out. Since I'm not a big fan of hacking up my dash nor throwing pressure gauges everywhere, I opted to go for a more subtle approach. I basically followed the wiring circuit laid out by an old company that used to sell the "Quick Air 2" air comps. Not sure if you can find it still online but if you can't, let me know as I'm sure I have it on my home machine. This approach uses a simple lighted switch and here's how it works:
- turn on the air comp switch.
- lights turns on
- comp hits the cut out pressure setpoint (105 psi in my case but 150psi is another common setpoint)
- when the cut out press has been reached, the indicator light in the switch shuts off EVEN though the switch is still on the ON pos.
- when the air pressure drops below the cut in pressure (80psi in my case, 100 psi in others), the comp clutch pulls in
- the indicator light comes on again
-rinse, repeat.
So, this way of wiring lets the driver know when the comp is running and when it has reached the min pressure. I don't have a need for a pressure gauge in the cab but do have one under the hood and one on the front ARB bumper.
Anyway, just some useless info for y'all!!
We all know that a pressure switch is required so that the comp will know when it cut in/cut out. Since I'm not a big fan of hacking up my dash nor throwing pressure gauges everywhere, I opted to go for a more subtle approach. I basically followed the wiring circuit laid out by an old company that used to sell the "Quick Air 2" air comps. Not sure if you can find it still online but if you can't, let me know as I'm sure I have it on my home machine. This approach uses a simple lighted switch and here's how it works:
- turn on the air comp switch.
- lights turns on
- comp hits the cut out pressure setpoint (105 psi in my case but 150psi is another common setpoint)
- when the cut out press has been reached, the indicator light in the switch shuts off EVEN though the switch is still on the ON pos.
- when the air pressure drops below the cut in pressure (80psi in my case, 100 psi in others), the comp clutch pulls in
- the indicator light comes on again
-rinse, repeat.
So, this way of wiring lets the driver know when the comp is running and when it has reached the min pressure. I don't have a need for a pressure gauge in the cab but do have one under the hood and one on the front ARB bumper.
Anyway, just some useless info for y'all!!
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