ARCHIVE Wits' End Turbo Test Mule #3- no cartwheeling allowed (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter NLXTACY
- Start date
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NLXTACY
Wits' End
- Thread starter
- #1,064
Another one to add to the list of crap that four people might find useful. Redid all my battery cables and cleaned up all the loom. But I made the starter cable longer to keep it looser and decided to use the little useless tab on the charcoal canister as a clamp for the battery cable.
You know that useless piece of metal hanging off the bracket on the charcoal canister? I wanted it to be slightly less useless. Does the job perfectly.
You know that useless piece of metal hanging off the bracket on the charcoal canister? I wanted it to be slightly less useless. Does the job perfectly.
He probably would cheat and put one on the gas tank sender inside.You should do an eye spy contest to count all the wits end logos in that engine bay
NLXTACY
Wits' End
- Thread starter
- #1,067
Quick tip:
When trying to figure out placement of accessories on doors, hoods, and hatches, it’s best to find out how much room you have to work with.
Well, the easiest and cheapest way to *know* is to put some #PlayDoh into a ziplock bag and then close the door or hood or hatch to get a complete view of the room you have to work with. In this case we just needed to verify that some hatch lights would fit in the hatch space that we planned for. Turns out we had plenty of room.
When trying to figure out placement of accessories on doors, hoods, and hatches, it’s best to find out how much room you have to work with.
Well, the easiest and cheapest way to *know* is to put some #PlayDoh into a ziplock bag and then close the door or hood or hatch to get a complete view of the room you have to work with. In this case we just needed to verify that some hatch lights would fit in the hatch space that we planned for. Turns out we had plenty of room.
NLXTACY
Wits' End
- Thread starter
- #1,068
I’m not proud of this but it was necessary for the time being.
This turbo truck lived in South Carolina for 22 years before I bought it drove it to the West Coast. Now I say this because rust is a crazy real issue for non-west coast trucks but I got lucky.
One of the things that eventually needs to be take care of is the roof rack residual rust. The truck is mostly perfect except for the rust on the OEM lame ass roof rack. So f’ing annoying. Everyone has to to deal with this at some level. Three of the legs were fine but passenger front shoes signs of rust under the paint. Boo. I’ll have to deal with that later.
For now I just need to deal with the existing holes where the factory rivnuts are in the roof. Each needs to be dealt with before the rain starts. I took the easy way out for the time being. I just used EXTRA wide button head screws with UV stable rubber washers. The ID of the washers need to go around the outside of the rivnuts because they sit proud of the roof. The flanged stainless bolts need to squeeze the rubber washer to create a positive seal to prevent water intrusion. It’s not super sexy but it absolutely solves the issue until I can take care of the rust at another time in the very distant future
This turbo truck lived in South Carolina for 22 years before I bought it drove it to the West Coast. Now I say this because rust is a crazy real issue for non-west coast trucks but I got lucky.
One of the things that eventually needs to be take care of is the roof rack residual rust. The truck is mostly perfect except for the rust on the OEM lame ass roof rack. So f’ing annoying. Everyone has to to deal with this at some level. Three of the legs were fine but passenger front shoes signs of rust under the paint. Boo. I’ll have to deal with that later.
For now I just need to deal with the existing holes where the factory rivnuts are in the roof. Each needs to be dealt with before the rain starts. I took the easy way out for the time being. I just used EXTRA wide button head screws with UV stable rubber washers. The ID of the washers need to go around the outside of the rivnuts because they sit proud of the roof. The flanged stainless bolts need to squeeze the rubber washer to create a positive seal to prevent water intrusion. It’s not super sexy but it absolutely solves the issue until I can take care of the rust at another time in the very distant future
NLXTACY
Wits' End
- Thread starter
- #1,071
Ok fine, added to the site
absolute-wits-end.com
80 Series Roofrack Elimination Hardware
80 Series Roofrack Elimination Hardware (REH-1)
Azca
If there is a harder way - I will find it...
Will be part of my next order!
StrongArm 4551L & 4551R, limited lifetime guarantee, currently $25 each on Amazon. Lift hatch is StrongArm 6290 ($38 for 2).You know, other than an absolute splitting headache...I wish there was a way to tell how a good lift support was going bad. I wish there was some indication, a warning, a sign of an impending skull fracture.
And no, not going to carry these. The left and right ArmStrong hood struts are available on Amazon for $38 and they should be bolt-in. No modifications needed.
View attachment 1999208
P/N?
Do you have sizes & P/Ns handy?
Is there a verdict on this yet? All I have is a box of the big filters...I'm not sure actually
Perhaps we have an apple and an orange.
The fan assembly is 88590-60010. The harness-side connector is not serviced and can be harvested from a dead 3.slow 4Runner.
The fan assembly is 88590-60010. The harness-side connector is not serviced and can be harvested from a dead 3.slow 4Runner.
Okay, ja, I saw your earlier comment on the pigtail being n/a, was asking about the fan. Is the fan itself found in those 4Runners, or just a connector that happens to fit it? Thank you sir.
