With ride comfort foremost in mind, what is the best way to level a 200 Cruiser ? (1 Viewer)

[crikeymike]

I used the OEM LC strut spacer (P/N 43136-60020) which I believe is a 3/8 inch metal spacer that stacks on the front strut tower.

So it's mounted in between the strut top hat/mount and the tower? That's a pretty simple spacer, and not a bad price really. Sure, the installation would take some time, but that's a lot to have to pay a dealer to get it put in. Dealing with the KDSS is a bit tricky, but all you'd need to do is get that strut and LCA to drop about 2" to be able to get that spacer in.

I'd do it just like the 4runner front end (assuming it's all very similar in design). Relieve KDSS valves, disconnect sway bar from LCA, disconnect tie rod ends, then remove bolts holding ball joint to LCA. Undo top and bottom strut mounts, then lower the LCA to get the strut assembly down enough to put the spacer in. Then reverse the process and tighten KDSS valves once it's sitting on the ground on the tires.

I have no idea, but I wonder how much down travel the LCA could go if you disconnect the top hat bolts (3 of them). Probably not the 2"+ that you'd need, but that would be pretty cool if it could be done, and fast too. Like 10 mins per side. I'm probably dreaming now.

 

[cc1999]

They were just as described a couple steel spacers about 3/4 of an inch thick giving it about an inch of lift.

I had the same shop that did my full Icon stage 5 system on my Colorado, do the spacer installation .
It cost me 210.00 for their labor to install the spacer .
It took them about 2 hours to do it.

The dealer wanted well over 300 for spacer install labor only and then wanted list for the parts, all in at the dealer with alignment was over 600.00 .

So after buying the spacers from Camelback Toyota online for 95 bucks including 2nd day shipping which was 23 bucks extra, then my alignment shop's 89.00, I ended up all said and done right at $395.00.

 

[Narkhelek]

Got the Toyota spacers installed last Friday.
No rubbing going forward but still have some minor rubbing in reverse.
I think it definantly setting more level.

I had an alignment done after, I use to have a great alignment guy that could set my cruiser up perfect, or just the way I liked it. He use to take out some of the toyota recommended camber I think it was. That was to get the steering response slowed down just a little bit, so they would drive a little more free and easy so to speak. I think The new guy might have left a little too much positive camber in my setup . I think I going to have them take out some more of the positive camber.

Someone correct me if I'm wrong but I thought you generally want your camber to be as close to neutral as possible otherwise you're going to wear your tires unevenly. Those who are in to racing may desire negative camber as it can help with cornering. Now, caster is something you can play with. More caster will tend to make the vehicle track straighter and resist wandering while less caster will make the vehicle feel like it is handling more responsively but is more prone to wandering down the road.

 

[cc1999]

That's sort of what I thought too. I guess the factory specifies some positive camber for some reason. I am taking it back and going to have some more taken out.

I been trying to research the caster side of things to better understand how that works . The spacers didn't help my rub issue at all, not to sure it didn't make it worse. I am wondering if they couldn't adjust the caster a bit to move the tires a little bit further forward to help that rub issue . Just don't know what that does to the steering feel. I would like it slowed down and steering a little more free and easy or less responsive or twitchy then it is now.

 

[Narkhelek]

So additional positive caster will move the wheels forward and also give you a more stable feeling steering response like you desire. Once you start lifting a vehicle you are generally looking for more positive caster than you would normally have stock in order to correct rub issues. There is a limit to how much positive caster you can get with OEM upper control arms without having to sacrifice camber. Caster and camber become related as you start to move toward the limits of the alignment range (ie you may have more camber than desired in order to get the caster you want).

I just had Toyota spacers installed on my otherwise stock 2009LC. Here is my alignment after having them installed:

Camber Left: .5
Camber Right: .4
Caster Left: 2.9
Caster Right: 3.0
Toe Left: .11
Toe Right: .15

 

[studawg]

Got the Toyota spacers installed last Friday.
No rubbing going forward but still have some minor rubbing in reverse.
I think it definantly setting more level.

I had an alignment done after, I use to have a great alignment guy that could set my cruiser up perfect, or just the way I liked it. He use to take out some of the toyota recommended camber I think it was. That was to get the steering response slowed down just a little bit, so they would drive a little more free and easy so to speak. I think The new guy might have left a little too much positive camber in my setup . I think I going to have them take out some more of the positive camber.

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Great thread, and your truck looks great. Might those fender flares be whats causing your rubbing? You can remove the flares and keep the mud flaps on to keep the running boards clean.

 

[cc1999]

No the flairs are not causing any issues , and actually they are all that's keeping the new wheels and tires with the new offset inside the fenders.
Plus I am huge fan of the flairs, I think the wheels and tires would go back to stock before the flairs would come off. Lol.
Toyota actually made the flairs to work around or in conjunction with Toyota flaps, the rub is back inside the fender on the inner side of the flaps.

I can trim the inner flaps or try and heat them up to attempt to reshape, and fix the rub. I would rather not, if I can get the alignment to cure it.
If not I could also just let it eventually wear through the flap. However it only rubs when backing up with the wheels cranked, it could take quite ca long time to wear through.

 

[Recon Aircrew]

I had the same goal, to level the front and to retain close to stock height and ride comfort. In addition to new TRD wheels and 285/70/17 KO2's I used the OEM LC strut spacer (P/N 43136-60020) which I believe is a 3/8 inch metal spacer that stacks on the front strut tower. I had it dealer installed and am pleased with the results for now. Gained almost an inch on the front, and with the recovery equipment I carry in the trunk (~120lbs) it actually leaves the front a smidge higher than the rear. The FIRST THREE PHOTOS ARE AFTER the spacer addition, and the LAST PHOTO WAS BEFORE THE SPACER WAS ADDED - sorry I don't have a perfect side shot of the rake before.View attachment 1388890 View attachment 1388891 View attachment 1388893 View attachment 1388894

Very nice 200! Where were you able to find those TRD wheels?

 

[Chefz]

Very nice 200! Where were you able to find those TRD wheels?

I walked into the part department at my local Toyota dealer with the part numbers from the TRD parts website and ordered five new rims and a set of TRD lug nuts, and they arrived for pickup at the dealership in less than one week. That was about four months ago.

 

[cmatthew1978]

What wheels are those and what size?

Got the Toyota spacers installed last Friday.
No rubbing going forward but still have some minor rubbing in reverse.
I think it definantly setting more level.

I had an alignment done after, I use to have a great alignment guy that could set my cruiser up perfect, or just the way I liked it. He use to take out some of the toyota recommended camber I think it was. That was to get the steering response slowed down just a little bit, so they would drive a little more free and easy so to speak. I think The new guy might have left a little too much positive camber in my setup . I think I going to have them take out some more of the positive camber.

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[cc1999]

What wheels are those and what size?

Fuel Trophy in mat black with grey anthracite ring, 18x9 20mm offset. Tires are P285/60/18 Toyo Open Country AT2

 

[cmatthew1978]

Fuel Trophy in mat black with grey anthracite ring, 18x9 20mm offset. Tires are P285/60/18 Toyo Open Country AT2

I like that stance for sure! I am debating doing the spacer level in this thread versus a lift. I am buying some pro wheels for pretty cheap and prefer duratracs.

 

[cc1999]

I have Duratrac's on my Ram 2500 and had them on my Colorado, great tire but their noisy, which I don't mind so much on my Diesel trucks but for some reason I don't think I would like having that road noise with the Cruiser. I think the Toyo's are a little louder then I was hoping for and after getting a set of Cooper Zeon LTZs for the Armada, I am sort of wishing I had gone with the Cooper Zeon's for the Cruiser. Aggressive look but still really quiet. The Toyo's are quite a bit quieter then the Durtrac's. I still might swap out the Toyo's for the Coopers. The Cooper is .1 narrower in the LC's 285/60/18 size and by the tread design, I think it would be even less likely to rub then the -0.1 sec width indicates, plus they are quieter.

The Cruiser is going back in for some more alignment adjustments in the morning. I have Narkhelek alignment spec's printed off.
We are going to try and add more caster to shove the wheels forward and take out some more of that positive camber they had left in it after last weeks alignment. I am still not sure why they left so much positive caster in it and only on the Driver (left) side.

 

[Narkhelek]

e are going to try and add more caster to shove the wheels forward and take out some more of that positive camber they had left in it after last weeks alignment. I am still not sure why they left so much positive caster in it and only on the Driver (left) side.

Some alignment techs will tweak the camber to compensate for the crown of the road (road slope due to drainage usually sloping to the right) so the vehicle will drive straight when on a right sloping road. I personally don't like it because the freeways I drive on tend to slope to either side of the road depending on if you are in the left or right lanes.

 

[sickspeed]

Fuel Trophy in mat black with grey anthracite ring, 18x9 20mm offset. Tires are P285/60/18 Toyo Open Country AT2

Are your tires really the stock 285/60s or did you mean 285/65?

 

[cc1999]

Are your tires really the stock 285/60s or did you mean 285/65?

No they are the stock size 285/60/18s. All the 65s are loade range E and I was not wanting to run a stiff heavy 10ply, I like the smooth ride of a p-metric 4 ply. Plus the 65s are taller and I was already concerned about clearing them on a 18x9 wheel with a 20mm offset.

 

[sickspeed]

Thanks. They just looked a little larger in the pics and people often replace tires with their wheels. Truck looks great either way.

 

[cc1999]

Thanks. They just looked a little larger in the pics and people often replace tires with their wheels. Truck looks great either way.

Thanks
Yea I do change sizes on some vehicles and I did change the tires on the cruiser in terms of brand and style of tire, I just didn't change size.

I did a full suspension change on my Colorado and went up a couple sizes in tire. I actually have the same 285/60/18 on it too.

 

[cc1999]

So additional positive caster will move the wheels forward and also give you a more stable feeling steering response like you desire. Once you start lifting a vehicle you are generally looking for more positive caster than you would normally have stock in order to correct rub issues. There is a limit to how much positive caster you can get with OEM upper control arms without having to sacrifice camber. Caster and camber become related as you start to move toward the limits of the alignment range (ie you may have more camber than desired in order to get the caster you want).

I just had Toyota spacers installed on my otherwise stock 2009LC. Here is my alignment after having them installed:

Camber Left: .5
Camber Right: .4
Caster Left: 2.9
Caster Right: 3.0
Toe Left: .11
Toe Right: .15

My alignment guy asked this morning what the unit of measure was on those specs. inches or mm etc.

The specs he gave me were in inches
5/8 camber left 1/8 inch camber right.

 

[gaijin]

My alignment guy asked this morning what the unit of measure was on those specs. inches or mm etc.

The specs he gave me were in inches
5/8 camber left 1/8 inch camber right.

Ummmmmmm ..... The camber specs on my dealer printout are in degrees, not inches or mm:

HTH