With ride comfort foremost in mind, what is the best way to level a 200 Cruiser ?

[TeCKis300]

No the flairs are not causing any issues , and actually they are all that's keeping the new wheels and tires with the new offset inside the fenders.
Plus I am huge fan of the flairs, I think the wheels and tires would go back to stock before the flairs would come off. Lol.
Toyota actually made the flairs to work around or in conjunction with Toyota flaps, the rub is back inside the fender on the inner side of the flaps.

I can trim the inner flaps or try and heat them up to attempt to reshape, and fix the rub. I would rather not, if I can get the alignment to cure it.
If not I could also just let it eventually wear through the flap. However it only rubs when backing up with the wheels cranked, it could take quite ca long time to wear through.

If it's rubbing in reverse, the fix is super easy. Refer to my post here -
Trimming Wheel Well for Larger Tires

 

[cc1999]

Ummmmmmm ..... The camber specs on my dealer printout are in degrees, not inches or mm:

HTH

Thanks, I wasn't sure how it worked. I am just getting numbers in decimal on here and in fractions from my alignment guy and really didn't know.
3"s didn't seem right for a caster measurement since that is lot didn't seem feasible and yet 1/8 = 0.125 sort of seemed plausible to be in inches.

We got the reverse rear flap rub solved!!!!
Drives great !!!

However!!!

I took it home and pulled into the driveway and also backed into the driveway and now have a rub on the front of the fender liners both side more sever on the right. LOL
Which makes sense now that there is +3 caster on the right and only +2 on the left.
Current setup is now.
3/8 left Camber
0 right Camber
+3 Right Caster
+2 left Caster
Tow in is 1/16th

I go back tomorrow and he is going to pull out a little of the positive caster to pull the wheels back just little bit. I am thinking it wont take more then maybe a 1/2 inch on the passenger side and 1/4 inch on the drive to make it all work. I am not sure how that converts to degree. I woud guess set the right to 2.5 and the let to 1.75.

I have plenty of clearance on the rear now. So I think it is workable, we just have to get it in set just right to clear both front and back.
There is such a variance from normal stance for forward motion and what happen when it goes into reverse and yanks that nose down. Through in some minor articulation from the likes of my driveway which is not steep, just a soft drange curb and very very slight gradual pitch.

The tiny little rubber flap in the front of the wheel well is what it's hitting now. I suppose I can live without those little front flaps, I am not at all excited about taking off the actual mud flaps/splash guards . It's easy to get to those front flaps and looks to be only held on by to little screws its those screw heads that what make all the racket as the tires are rubbing them.

None the less we have made progress today.

 

[cc1999]

Here are some pictures of the Rubbing issues.

You can tell in these shots where the dirt is rubbed off, back on the inner portion of the flaps.

You can also tell the right side was rubbing a lot worse since it has the bigger rub patch.
These are prior to this morning.

This is the new rubbing issue on the front. That little flap is what it is hitting.
In this first pic you can see where the dirt is rubbed off that outer screw head.

 

[Narkhelek]

Aye. Those specs I posted above were in degrees.

 

[cc1999]

Aye. Those specs I posted above were in degrees.

Thanks, I think he figured it out. He didn't exactly copy them but some things ended up pretty close. My alignment guy seems to have more of an old school approach to alignment. Which is actually why I use them and several of the custom suspension shops that do a lot of lift kits use him as well, since the dealers always want to put everything in factory spec, when in cases like mine where we have several variables that are not actually part of the factory spec, wheel specs like the different width and offset, strut spacers etc, I am sure would not work well with 100% of the factory spec.

I think I am seeing the end solution now well within reach. We just have to pull a little bit of that added caster back out and we should have a good workable solution to the minor rub issues.

Thanks again for your help.

 

[cc1999]

I thought I would update this. We did take off those front fender liner flaps, still have no idea what those were for. If someone knows please share?

My alignment guy gave it his absolute best efforts yesterday and stuck with it for about 2 more hours adjusting it back some then forward some and after 4 or 5 more attempts, I would say he has it clearing as well as it possibly can. We are now setting with very slight rub on the rear flaps in reverse full locked turns, almost no rub when the wheels are turned to the left in reverse but slight bit of rub when the wheels are turned to right. I think It drove a little better when they pushed further forward, but even after taking those little flaps off it was still hitting the front of the fender liner and where it was hitting was fairly ridged behind it so with there being over an inch behind the mud flaps of dead space, we decided it was best to let them brush up against the mud flaps vs the front fender liner.

All in all its pretty good now. I may at some try and pin the mud flaps back or trim a little and that will cure the rub all together.