Wiring Nightmare (1 Viewer)

[Joe45]

from Land Cruiser manuals, FSMs, and repair resources - https://heritagecruisers.com/pages/manuals

The 1975-1983 FJ40 Chassis Body Repair Manual (98154) has (at least my opinion) the easiest to read diagram I'm aware of. Unfortunately only covers several years, and comparing against 1970-1974 Land Cruiser Chassis & Body Repair Manual (98077) (mine is a '74) it's mostly close enough I just use the '75 diagram.

Unfortunately it crosses multiple pages, but is still easier to read...

Thanks!

 

[Joe45]

OK so I went to the HJ to check out if I could do something productive. The thick white/blue wire seems to be what caused the fire, and the rectangular box seems to also have caused some heat. The wire is melted up into the loom and seems to have caused some other melting of wires sleeves, but none that exposed the inside.

I went to where the wires exit through the firewall into the engine compartment and unwrapped the wire loom to see the damage. While there was no melting at all there, I found several cut wires and more splices:

Cut wires with dead ends that were taped up inside the loom:

• Yellow/black
• Green/Red
• Red/White
• Yellow/Green
• Black/Yellow
• White (thicker than the other wires.

Also...

• a blue wire connected to a white/green wire with one of those male/female connectors you get at the car store.
• Three white/black wires (one thicker than the others) and a black wire spliced to a thicker white/black wire.

At this point I decided this is just too much to deal with right now. If I had another car at the moment-even without a garage, I would just wait and rewire it later when the garage is up. But it has become way too much to do. It's taking all of my time and now I am behind on work I need to be doing. And, it was 32F this morning and will me about 24F tomorrow morning, and it gets dark/cold early. Not doing this outside. And I can't focus: too much going on.

My idea was then to tape up the thick white/blue and any other exposed wire, disconnect the rectangular box, leave the fuse-box hanging, and then start the cruiser and-if it didn't start smoking again, drive it to my mechanic so he can sort it out.

However, the white/blue wire is burned into the top of the loom and I can't access it that far up unless I remove the seats... again: too much going on.

So I called a tow truck. Thing is, tow truck can't get in my yard-not even the smaller pickup one.

So here is my question, after this long diatribe...

How can I basically hotwire this thing-just so the engine runs and I can drive it to the front so the tow truck can come get it tomorrow or day after? I guess I'd also have to be able to activate the glow plugs, because it's going to be below freezzing.
I would only drive it for like 200' or so. No need for lights or anything else; just engine running.

Here are some pics of what I found today, just for posterity...

I also thought of pulling it with my FJC, but I am not sure it's possible to make the tight left turn through the alley towing another vehicle.

 

[kerplunk]

How can I basically hotwire this thing-just so the engine runs and I can drive it to the front so the tow truck can come get it tomorrow or day after?

Make sure the battery is fully charged and get a remote starter switch, put it in gear and abuse the starter.

A fully charged battery will probably get you 50 to 100 feet.

Be prepared for it to start. Especially a diesel. Make sure you don't run yourself over on accident. But unless you have a really bad obstacle course, just ranking on the starter in gear should get you close enough to a winch cable.

 

[Joe45]

Make sure the battery is fully charged and get a remote starter switch, put it in gear and abuse the starter.

A fully charged battery will probably get you 50 to 100 feet.

Be prepared for it to start. Especially a diesel. Make sure you don't run yourself over on accident. But unless you have a really bad obstacle course, just ranking on the starter in gear should get you close enough to a winch cable.

Thanks, but I need to maneuver this vehicle across the yard, right turn into an alley, then left, then back-up a couple of feet to navigate the left turn without hitting a fence, then drive the length of the house, then pull forward and back it up into the front drive way.

I need to be able to run it for about two or three minutes.

 

[45Dougal]

I forget - Do you have the edic? You can remove the linkage and pull it to the start position.
Disconnect the alternator
Disconnect all smaller wires to the battery.
Leave only the big cable to the stater motor.
Now jump between the positive battery terminal, and the Black-white wire at the ignition switch connector.
This will turn the starter motor and if your EDIC is disengaged then it will start and run.
You don't need electric for a diesel engine

The only way to stop it is to move the arm on the injection pump to the stop position.

 

[45Dougal]

OK so I went to the HJ to check out if I could do something productive. The thick white/blue wire seems to be what caused the fire, and the rectangular box seems to also have caused some heat. The wire is melted up into the loom and seems to have caused some other melting of wires sleeves, but none that exposed the inside.

I went to where the wires exit through the firewall into the engine compartment and unwrapped the wire loom to see the damage. While there was no melting at all there, I found several cut wires and more splices:

Cut wires with dead ends that were taped up inside the loom:

• Yellow/black
• Green/Red
• Red/White
• Yellow/Green
• Black/Yellow
• White (thicker than the other wires.

Also...

• a blue wire connected to a white/green wire with one of those male/female connectors you get at the car store.
• Three white/black wires (one thicker than the others) and a black wire spliced to a thicker white/black wire.

At this point I decided this is just too much to deal with right now. If I had another car at the moment-even without a garage, I would just wait and rewire it later when the garage is up. But it has become way too much to do. It's taking all of my time and now I am behind on work I need to be doing. And, it was 32F this morning and will me about 24F tomorrow morning, and it gets dark/cold early. Not doing this outside. And I can't focus: too much going on.

My idea was then to tape up the thick white/blue and any other exposed wire, disconnect the rectangular box, leave the fuse-box hanging, and then start the cruiser and-if it didn't start smoking again, drive it to my mechanic so he can sort it out.

However, the white/blue wire is burned into the top of the loom and I can't access it that far up unless I remove the seats... again: too much going on.

So I called a tow truck. Thing is, tow truck can't get in my yard-not even the smaller pickup one.

So here is my question, after this long diatribe...

How can I basically hotwire this thing-just so the engine runs and I can drive it to the front so the tow truck can come get it tomorrow or day after? I guess I'd also have to be able to activate the glow plugs, because it's going to be below freezzing.
I would only drive it for like 200' or so. No need for lights or anything else; just engine running.

Here are some pics of what I found today, just for posterity...

View attachment 3468971View attachment 3468972View attachment 3468973View attachment 3468975

I also thought of pulling it with my FJC, but I am not sure it's possible to make the tight left turn through the alley towing another vehicle.

I'll take a look tomorrow - heading to bed now here. You can also bump start if you have something to pull it (again with the edic rod in the run position).

 

[Joe45]

I forget - Do you have the edic? You can remove the linkage and pull it to the start position.
Disconnect the alternator
Disconnect all smaller wires to the battery.
Leave only the big cable to the stater motor.
Now jump between the positive battery terminal, and the Black-white wire at the ignition switch connector.
This will turn the starter motor and if your EDIC is disengaged then it will start and run.
You don't need electric for a diesel engine

The only way to stop it is to move the arm on the injection pump to the stop position.

Apologies for my ignorance here, but don't know what an "edic" is, or which is the injection pump arm. I'll have to look that up.
Thank you!

 

[45Dougal]

Apologies for my ignorance here, but don't know what an "edic" is, or which is the injection pump arm. I'll have to look that up.
Thank you!

The edic is the thing that shuts of your engine when you turn the key off.
I don't have one - I simply pull a mechanical knob

 

[45Dougal]

The edic is the thing that shuts of your engine when you turn the key off.
I don't have one - I simply pull a mechanical knob

I "think" this is your EDIC linkage. Your pump is different from mine and I don't have an EDIC so fingers crossed.
It should be a ball joint that just pops off - might need to rotate/pull a wire/pin out first.
It will currently be in the off position. You need to pull it to the run position and tie it in place until you want it to stop. Check your manual if unsure.

Remember to disconnect your alternator and battery apart from the starter.
If you need glow, then jump it directly from the battery to the bus bar across the glow plugs.
Should run as normal then until you stop it by pushing the lever back to the stop position (or stalling).

 

[45Dougal]

OK so I went to the HJ to check out if I could do something productive. The thick white/blue wire seems to be what caused the fire, and the rectangular box seems to also have caused some heat. The wire is melted up into the loom and seems to have caused some other melting of wires sleeves, but none that exposed the inside.

I went to where the wires exit through the firewall into the engine compartment and unwrapped the wire loom to see the damage. While there was no melting at all there, I found several cut wires and more splices:

Cut wires with dead ends that were taped up inside the loom:

• Yellow/black
• Green/Red
• Red/White
• Yellow/Green
• Black/Yellow
• White (thicker than the other wires.

Also...

• a blue wire connected to a white/green wire with one of those male/female connectors you get at the car store.
• Three white/black wires (one thicker than the others) and a black wire spliced to a thicker white/black wire.

At this point I decided this is just too much to deal with right now. If I had another car at the moment-even without a garage, I would just wait and rewire it later when the garage is up. But it has become way too much to do. It's taking all of my time and now I am behind on work I need to be doing. And, it was 32F this morning and will me about 24F tomorrow morning, and it gets dark/cold early. Not doing this outside. And I can't focus: too much going on.

My idea was then to tape up the thick white/blue and any other exposed wire, disconnect the rectangular box, leave the fuse-box hanging, and then start the cruiser and-if it didn't start smoking again, drive it to my mechanic so he can sort it out.

However, the white/blue wire is burned into the top of the loom and I can't access it that far up unless I remove the seats... again: too much going on.

So I called a tow truck. Thing is, tow truck can't get in my yard-not even the smaller pickup one.

So here is my question, after this long diatribe...

How can I basically hotwire this thing-just so the engine runs and I can drive it to the front so the tow truck can come get it tomorrow or day after? I guess I'd also have to be able to activate the glow plugs, because it's going to be below freezzing.
I would only drive it for like 200' or so. No need for lights or anything else; just engine running.

Here are some pics of what I found today, just for posterity...

View attachment 3468971View attachment 3468972View attachment 3468973View attachment 3468975

I also thought of pulling it with my FJC, but I am not sure it's possible to make the tight left turn through the alley towing another vehicle.

If it works; don't **** with it.
Put them back as you found them. Just clean them, photo them, and tape them up safely for now. This isn't the source of your current problem.

You'll need to replace your thick white- blue wire.
Cut each end and bypass with a new piece - be careful if it forks - depends where the melt is.
The biggest problem you face is whether other wires were damaged and short circuited together during the melt down.
Also you need to find the source of the short to ground which caused this - probably the rectangular box casing was touching the chassis or something simple like that.

Get a fusible link installed to protect it.
Maybe switch the headlights back to the original slot on the fuse holder which was designed for them and remove the rectangular box.

 

[Joe45]

I "think" this is your EDIC linkage. Your pump is different from mine and I don't have an EDIC so fingers crossed.
It should be a ball joint that just pops off - might need to rotate/pull a wire/pin out first.
It will currently be in the off position. You need to pull it to the run position and tie it in place until you want it to stop. Check your manual if unsure.

Remember to disconnect your alternator and battery apart from the starter.
If you need glow, then jump it directly from the battery to the bus bar across the glow plugs.
Should run as normal then until you stop it by pushing the lever back to the stop position (or stalling).

View attachment 3469463

If it works; don't **** with it.
Put them back as you found them. Just clean them, photo them, and tape them up safely for now. This isn't the source of your current problem.

You'll need to replace your thick white- blue wire.
Cut each end and bypass with a new piece - be careful if it forks - depends where the melt is.
The biggest problem you face is whether other wires were damaged and short circuited together during the melt down.
Also you need to find the source of the short to ground which caused this - probably the rectangular box casing was touching the chassis or something simple like that.

Get a fusible link installed to protect it.
Maybe switch the headlights back to the original slot on the fuse holder which was designed for them and remove the rectangular box.

My engine shuts off by pulling a mechanical knob. Turning the key to "off" does nothing.

Regardless, I had about ten high school boys here today working on my workshop (its part of their construction class). They all love the truck and volunteered to push it.
So... we got the truck out of the yard, into the alley, and to the edge of the street.

The tow-truck came soon after and she is now at my mechanic's place for a full inspection. I figure this way I can at least get a good perspective of issues. My decision will then depend on what he says and expense regarding what I have him do and what I do myself.

Again, if I have the garage, and another vehicle, I would just roll her in there and get at it. But I need this done. And... it was like 18 degrees F this morning. So let's see what the diagnosis is, and where I go with it!
You've all be absolutely priceless with your help and advice!
I will keep y'all posted.

 

[ToyotaMatt]

My engine shuts off by pulling a mechanical knob. Turning the key to "off" does nothing.

Regardless, I had about ten high school boys here today working on my workshop (its part of their construction class). They all love the truck and volunteered to push it.
So... we got the truck out of the yard, into the alley, and to the edge of the street.

The tow-truck came soon after and she is now at my mechanic's place for a full inspection. I figure this way I can at least get a good perspective of issues. My decision will then depend on what he says and expense regarding what I have him do and what I do myself.

Again, if I have the garage, and another vehicle, I would just roll her in there and get at it. But I need this done. And... it was like 18 degrees F this morning. So let's see what the diagnosis is, and where I go with it!
You've all be absolutely priceless with your help and advice!
I will keep y'all posted.

so where is this ?

in all that above ......?


.

 

[45Dougal]

My engine shuts off by pulling a mechanical knob. Turning the key to "off" does nothing.

Regardless, I had about ten high school boys here today working on my workshop (its part of their construction class). They all love the truck and volunteered to push it.
So... we got the truck out of the yard, into the alley, and to the edge of the street.

The tow-truck came soon after and she is now at my mechanic's place for a full inspection. I figure this way I can at least get a good perspective of issues. My decision will then depend on what he says and expense regarding what I have him do and what I do myself.

Again, if I have the garage, and another vehicle, I would just roll her in there and get at it. But I need this done. And... it was like 18 degrees F this morning. So let's see what the diagnosis is, and where I go with it!
You've all be absolutely priceless with your help and advice!
I will keep y'all posted.

Ah OK. If you have the pull knob, then much easier - you just need to jump the starter and it should start.

 

[Joe45]

so where is this ?

in all that above ......?


.

View attachment 3470151View attachment 3470152View attachment 3470153View attachment 3470151View attachment 3470152View attachment 3470153

Is that available in pdf somewhere?

 

[45Dougal]

Any luck with the wiring yet?

 

[Joe45]

Any luck with the wiring yet?

The HJ is at the mechanic, who said he's swamped but looked at it. Mechanic said he can get it fixed for under $1,000. Fuse box is messed up along with a bunch of wires going all the way up behind the dash. He recommended the fix being just that area, and later me doing a whole rewire. Said he'd do the rewire but it will be costly due to the man hours.
So... I am waiting until he can do the basic fix.
I would do it myself but don't have a place to work. It's already in the 30s and even dropped to around 18 once, and I'm not working in that nightmare. Plus, I have a bunch of things I need to do regarding my business.

I also gave him a list of other issues to see about an estimate:

Issue 2:
“Clunk” from underneath on turns. Axle? Loose transmission/T-case?/?

Issue 3:
Front-Left axle seal leaking. Grease on inside of wheel/tire.

Issue 4:
Engine leaking oil. Seems like the oil pan gasket.

Issue 5:
Coolant leak from water-pump/thermostat housing.
Coolant leak from left side panels under exhaust manifold. (I found the bolts there to be loose enough to move by hand. Tightened them with a ratchet to just a little past that and leak seems to have stopped).

Issue 6:
Speedo/Instrument Cluster;
Engine temperature gauge does not work, nor do any of the other ones except speedometer and fuel level.
NOTE: I will eventually replace the Speedo/Instrument Cluster with a new one that reads MPH instead of kilometers.

Issue 7:
Vehicle goes to about 38-40 mph and then engine winds up. Was told by a few with same truck, engine, and transmission, that they do 55-60 easy.
Same folks above suggested it may be an engine governor issue.
Was told that a diesel mechanic who knows “Drexel” brand should be able to figure this out.

 

[45Dougal]

Sounds like it's going to be an expensive job all round, but maybe the best route if you've still got work pilling up.
Good luck getting her back on the road

 

[Joe45]

Sounds like it's going to be an expensive job all round, but maybe the best route if you've still got work pilling up.
Good luck getting her back on the road

Yeah, thanks. I have little choice other than having a few things fixed or parking the HJ in the yard until who knows when, and that only leads to things getting worse.