Wiper Linkage Overhaul (1 Viewer)

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Gardnerville!!!
Ok, lets start by saying I'm kind of frugal...This means I had a hard time paying a lot of money for all new wiper linkage, when all that was wrong was $0.14 worth of plastic!

I recently up graded to 4Runner wiper arms, and they are soooooo nice. I found them a Toyota wrecking yard with all the misc hardware, including good blades for $30.00.

My wiper linkage was working all right, but when I installed the new arms I noticed there was a few inches of slop. I know the plastic bushings wear out/break, and you can maybe find them in AU with more in shipping than parts. So I decided to see if I could make a repair that was cost effective and an operation improvement.

What I did:

Pulling the linkage out a 60 is quite easy; remove the wiper arms, pull the plastic cowl trims, remove 2 bolts on each wiper spline drive mount, remove the 2 firewall access plates, unplug and loosen the wiper motor under the hood on the passenger firewall. At this point you can wiggle the wiper linkage out with the motor attached.

Make notes of how the drive arm on the motor points, and mark it. Same with how the linkage attaches to the motor, the center double drive mount and single drive mount. I took pictures and marked mine with masking tape.

Now the fun. I noticed first off how tight the wiper drive shafts were in the 2 mount plates. They were hard to turn and I think this is what wears out the plastic snap joints!

These are a pain to take apart, as they have a wire snap ring to secure the shaft in the mount body. I used small picks to spread them, and pliers to resize them on assembly.

When I removed the shafts, they were nearly dry and crusty with cheap factory grease. I cleaned the parts, lubed with waterproof grease and put them back together. Wow! They work like magic!

Do the same on the small brass pivots for the drivers side drive mounts. It makes a huge difference.

On the linkage plastic ends, on mine at least, the passenger side with big plastic ends were the loose parts, the drivers side small ends were tight and good. I just cleaned them and lubed with a silicone grease. These ends could be upgraded with 1/4" heims if needed.

The big ends were trash, so I decided to use 3/8" female heim joints. These move in teflon bearings and will last forever. I made a template for measurements and alignment by tracing the arms outline and pivot points.

I then cut off the existing linkage ends at a point where I had empty tubing. The reason I used female heims was so a threaded rod could be welded inside the arm to allow fine adjustment, with a lock nut to secure the heim. I also swedged the tubes around the bolts after I tacked them by heating the tube and using a vice to clamp it. Then finished welding them to the arm.

On the motor arm and center drive mount arm, I ground off the pivot head and welded shouldered bolts to attach the heim joints. I used a lock nut to secure the heims to the arms. I used the template to align and adjust the length of the arm.

I painted all the parts and reinstalled the linkage.

Wow...This was a great repair that will outlast the original parts. The wipers move effortlessly, smoothly and quietly!

What did this cost to do? The 2 heims and lock nuts were around $20 shipped from Speedway Motors, shouldered bolts were $4.00 at local hardware store, and I had the 2 3/8"-24 X 2" bolts on hand to weld in the arms. I had the paint, waterproof grease and silicone grease also.

So total cost was around $24.00 and it took about 1.5 hours. So a good value and I think an improvement over stock, as these will never wear out. Plus I use better grease on the wiper arm shafts than Mr. T does, so another upgrade. But this is another maintenance area in the future to keep smooth operation.

I ordered new wiper shaft rubbers and new cowl trims, but these are not needed unless they are bad, but what the hell.

I'll post some pictures I took of the process.

I know the linkages are available, but for how long? This was a good repair for when they are no more, or IMHO, an upgrade! I'll post a long term report after driving in the rain a few times. But I bet for snow, slush and heavy rain, this will be much better.

Good or bad linkage, I really think everyone should lube the wiper drive drive shafts, as mine were very hard to to turn. This alone is worth the trouble if your linkage is not too worn.

Enjoy the wipe!

NOTE: On the wiper shaft wire snap rings - I'm going to go to the HW store and see if I can find regular snap rings to fit in place of the wire rings. If I can, I would be an easy maintenance item in the future as you could take the shaft out and lube from the top and firewall access plates. I'll post this up if it works.

UPDATES:

I found that 7/16" mini snap rings from Ace Hardware appear to work for replacing the wire snap rings on the wiper shafts retainers. We'll see how they go and I'll post after a good test.

I also ran into a small issue with the motor side heim mount bolt I welded to the motor arm. I heard a faint ticking sound and discovered the bolt I welded to the motor drive arm was a touch long and was just kissing the inner air intake inside the cowl. I ground a little off the bolt and nut to clear.

To eliminate this problem, make sure the bolt/nut is no longer than the original stock pivot stud...Doh! I could of done this easily, but didn't measure it! Now the next guy knows.

I would also go down to 5/16" heims on the passenger side linkage. They are physically smaller than the 3/8" I used and would easily clear the cowl.

Next time I service my wipers, I am going to change the drivers side linkage to 1/4" heims. My plastic ends are tight currently, but it would be easier to install not having the plastic ends pop off the link pivots.
 
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Is there any way to lube the important stuff without disassembling it or removing the entire assembly from inside the cowl? (Aka HD spray lube periodically?)
 
When I had my cruiser apart, I also removed the linkage and cleaned an re-greased everything with hi-grade stuff. Made a world of difference replacing 30+ year old lube that's been forever exposed to the elements. Those Aus bushings are for some aftermarket thing in Aus, and didn't fit.

Linkage is not hard to remove once you get the end separated from the motor. I don't think a surface spray of something would get into the joints or adequately lube that brittle plastic. Really best is to remove the old grease and replace.
 
Agree with Spike, with the wire snap ring and top washer fitting snugly around the shaft, it would be difficult to much lube around the shaft. What's more, the old nasty lube is what is binding up the rotation.

I added a note to my original post about possibly using a regular snap ring instead of the wire type. If this can be used, maintenance would be easy - Pull the wiper arm, remove rubber cover, remove snap ring, remove firewall inspection plates, push the shaft into the cowl, clean, lube reassemble. Would be a 10 minute project.

I'm going to try to find a regular snap ring before I finish my wiper job.
 
hey, getting to take the wipers apart every 5 years means you can also clear out the 5 years of dust and leaves from your airbox inlet
 
Great Tech BTW. :beer:
 
Well done @doug720 . Good write up. If you want to try another practice run I'll be happy to drive over with a cold 6pack. Cheers:)
 
Real world testing went very well today. We took our 3 dogs up to the mountains to enjoy a day in the snow and we had medium rain and wet heavy snow off and on.

The overhauled wiper linkage work perfectly! There is basically no slop and the wipers move quietly and smoothly. When combined with the 4Runner arms, it was "New" car quality wiping.

I would encourage everyone to fix their linkage, either overhaul or replace, and use the a set of 4Runner wiper arms to complete the upgrade.

I have a new 80 Series rear wiper on the way with the J hook ends, which will complete my wiper upgrades.

To clear windows!:beer:
 
Pictures

IMG_4242.JPG
IMG_4248.JPG
IMG_4250.JPG
 
Wow this looks great. I couldn't follow the whole write up but was hoping if you could provide a bit more detail. In particular, what exactly do you have at each pivot point (linkage to motor and middle linkage points) ? Is that a heim joint at the linkage to motor connection ? What are the dimensions of the heim joints and bolts used ?
 
I used 3/8" heim female ends on both the motor and linkage ends. I cut the hex heads off 3/8"-24 bolts to insert and weld into the stock wiper linkage tube ends. I also plug weld the the bolts, which is overkill, but so what, I'll never have to do this repair again!

For the linkage and motor end bolts, I used a shouldered bolt like this -
91259a724p1_land.png


If doing this again, I would use 5/16" heims. Still a lifetime upgrade and overkill, but easier to mount.

I did not change the small side of my linkage as it was like new. AS stated in original post, I think what breaks the original plastic linkage ends is the hardened old grease make it hard to turn the wiper shafts. Make sure you overhaul those also.

Hope this makes sense.
 
I used 3/8" heim female ends on both the motor and linkage ends. I cut the hex heads off 3/8"-24 bolts to insert and weld into the stock wiper linkage tube ends. I also plug weld the the bolts, which is overkill, but so what, I'll never have to do this repair again!

For the linkage and motor end bolts, I used a shouldered bolt like this -
91259a724p1_land.png


If doing this again, I would use 5/16" heims. Still a lifetime upgrade and overkill, but easier to mount.

I did not change the small side of my linkage as it was like new. AS stated in original post, I think what breaks the original plastic linkage ends is the hardened old grease make it hard to turn the wiper shafts. Make sure you overhaul those also.

Hope this makes sense.
Hi Thanks for the reply, for some reason I wasn't emailed about the reply and I thought I had my settings to watch this forum.

I am still not able to comprehend some of this, but I really want to build what you have - an upgraded wiper linkage. Is it possible to post a drawing or schematic of what you've assembled ?

Here are some questions I've got from re-reading everything:

1) I was under the impression that you cut off some of the linkage to weld in a threaded hole to allow for fine adjustment. What then do you mean by " I cut the hex heads off 3/8"-24 bolts to insert and weld into the stock wiper linkage tube ends." ? where exactly is this hex head going ?

2) What is a meant by "swedge" in
" I also swedged the tubes around the bolts after I tacked them by heating the tube and using a vice to clamp it. Then finished welding them to the arm." ?

3) From the pictures and the readings, am I correct in saying that you modified the mount of the linkage to the motor as well as one side of the linkage from the motor to the passenger side pivot but not the other side of the passenger side pivot and not the driver's side pivot ?

4) If I were to do the whole linkage (assuming I've already acquired the linkage off an old 4-runner), would I basically be using
a) 5/16" heims at the motor and both sides of the passenger side linkage.
b) 1/4 inch heim on the driver's side pivot
????

Sorry to be so detailed, but I would really like to replicate this and I have to go through the details with a fine tooth comb hehe. A schematic, if you would be so inclined, would be awesome !
 
When I had my cruiser apart, I also removed the linkage and cleaned an re-greased everything with hi-grade stuff. Made a world of difference replacing 30+ year old lube that's been forever exposed to the elements. Those Aus bushings are for some aftermarket thing in Aus, and didn't fit.

Linkage is not hard to remove once you get the end separated from the motor. I don't think a surface spray of something would get into the joints or adequately lube that brittle plastic. Really best is to remove the old grease and replace.


How do you remove and re-install the plastic pieces without breaking them ? I am tempted to grease the posts but spray silicon lubricant at the joints.


BD29969E-268E-4195-844A-694F58B654C3.jpeg
 
Any update on these mods? Looking to complete this myself and was wondering how it holds up. @fjgdk did you ever get your questions answered?
 
Any update on these mods? Looking to complete this myself and was wondering how it holds up. @fjgdk did you ever get your questions answered?


I never got the schematic, build detail questions answered. This looks like a grwat solution but would really like a drawing to better understand what was done.

To solve my wiper problems, I eventually followed another, cheaper solution on this thread - re-grease the pivot points on the wiper. I removed the assembly (remember NOT to seperate the pivot points with thebplastic piece, but remove as a whole!), removed the c-clips at the points, re-greased and viola! The wipers now work again. Previously one wiper wouldnt move at all. Seems they do corrode and get stuck.
 
Doug's writeup is pretty comprehensive but here are some pictures if you want to get an idea of what's involved. Hope it helps!

Also, there are now a couple options out there from Wit's End and Trail-Tailor that make the full monty fix less attractive. I'd do it again myself though, because I like future-proof and also there's something wrong with me. Wasn't too difficult but there was some test fitting, fiddling and grinding needed to make it work perfectly.

The problem- bushings gone or loose:
shotlinkageend.jpg

Mod is replacing the rod ends with heim joints:
linkagepaint.jpg

linkageend.jpg

Pivots are drilled/pressed out and replaced with shoulder bolts (welded in, heads cut off for passenger wiper pivots, as backs must be flush):
centerpivot.jpg

as Doug also noted, you can't have this much sticking out above joint on motor pivot:
motorpivot.jpg

It's somewhat forgiving of mistakes. Mine were wiping the hood on the first test run, for instance.

 
Nice write up and installation.

My wipers still work perfectly and silently.
 

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