Windshield moulding removal (1 Viewer)

[2001LC]

Windshield moulding removal?

My molding was either installed wrong or damage when removed for a windshield replacement. I see the FSM states these are non reusable. So I suppose I could just ripe them off. But I'd like to find the trick to releasing the 4 clips along the side and the 2 on top. I have one of the side clips that attach to the rivite, then moulding clips into them pictured below. So I know what they look like and how they work.

Just can't see how to release them from molding!

Can anyone help me out?

One of the side clips, lower.

FSM states: "Using a moulding remover, detach the 6 clips and remove the moulding." It shows it also, well kind of:

 

[2001LC]

I see 58 views and not one reply!

 

[gaijin]

When I read your post, I thought you already answered your question:

I see the FSM states these are non reusable. So I suppose I could just ripe them off.

The FSM shows them as not reusable for a reason. I don't know specifically what that reason is, but I would suspect you would run into trouble if you did reuse them - loose fit, insecure molding attachment, wind noise, who knows? If it were me, I'd follow the FSM and use new clips.

HTH

 

[2001LC]

That is what I'm thinking. That is; the molding isn't design for removal and reuse, just replace to save labor cost. That whatever installer doing windshield replacement for PO on this rig, just installed old molding which may be sprung.

FSM shows moulding, clips and rivets removed and has all as non reusable. I take this to mean "if" or once removed, which moulding must be to do windshield install. But clip and rivets may be ok, if not removed or damaged.

I suspect the moulding I'm pulling (attempting to pull) to inspect. Was sprung/bent and is why not pulled tight to "A" pillar. That this gives slight wind noise at high speeds (>80mph). That installer did not replace as direct by FSM procedure after damaging. That they (molding off clips or clips off rivets) need to be forced off by "moulding removal" tool the FSM speaks of.

But the FSM was also somewhat contradicting sa I read to tape moulding to protect it, or so I thought!

DUH.... Now that I look/read again it stated tape around moulding. Japanese to french to spanish to Russian to english translation. Sometimes I need to read three times after my morning cup of coffee to make sense to me Not the first time I've miss read the FSM.

From TIS update as of Aug 2017
(a) Remove the windshield outside moulding.

(1) Put protective tape "around" the moulding.

(2) Using a moulding remover, detach the 6 clips and remove the moulding

So I'll take it "MUDDER"s" have noty found a way around releasing clips without forcing/damaging?

Wish installer read the book and protected the body paint as I now assume FSM is instructing.

 

[2001LC]

I tried using various tools in attempt to release clips of side molding, but it no luck. I ended up just squeeze molding in toward clip ("A" pillar) with fingertips to release clip best I could and pulling up. It is necessary to remove wipers, molding under them and the molding under the sides of hood before side molding, which I show that later during install.

I found three of the four side clips had one of the two clips broken and not by me. It became apparent the installer used a "cheat" tool between "A" pillar and molding to force clips off, just on this side, likely the first side he worked.

Of the two clips at top one (rear) had been re-glued, the other (front) was still factory double sided tape adhered.
IMO installer used excessive black poly to glue down rear clip. This created a blockage for organics like leaves in rain gutter, reducing designed drainage/clean out.

 

[2001LC]

The molding was sprung/bent just as I thought I'd find it. The installer "should have" had rivets, molding and all clips on hand for replacement of any that were damaged like some of these were!

I used small clippers to cut out the side clips. I could see no other way to release from rivites.

Rivites themselve were in usable condition.

 

[2001LC]

I was happy I found no open holes in "A" pillar or leaks around windshield. The rivets don't need removing like in the 100 series. The new system used in the 200 series makes saving molding near impossible, but saves (in most cases) drilling/setting rivets which is nice.

So I cleaned out the excessive black poly in prep for install of molding and clips I've ordered.

I also clean area of dust to look for nicks in paint to metal, happy I didn't find any to metal. I was equally happy to not find excessive windshield black poly in side gutters.

 

[04UZJ100]

This may help....too bad this guy can’t travel the country for us!

 

[Sac Cerevisiae]

Amazing to watch professionals work when they’re trained and care about their product. It always looks easy enough to try yourself.

 

[04UZJ100]

Amazing to watch professionals work when they’re trained and care about their product. It always looks easy enough to try yourself.

It’s amazing when they care about YOUR things.

 

[2001LC]

So that's how to release the clip. I knew there must be a simple effective way. My molding on RH side was barely hanging on broken clips, so came off easy with just a suquees and a pull.

Thanks for posting the video. I'd use him, he's done a few 200 series for sure!

Looking at my windshield molding the installer must have learned on RH side how to remove clips. As he broke three clip and sprung the RH molding. He also used a (cheat as they call it) on RH prying molding with metal (likely) tool against A pillar, which I see all to often. He also used urethane to glue down top clip, which is ok. I like this guy saying he'd use epoxy glue, better. But why if he has the clips in his kit that is best.

Few things I'd have done to prep for even this installer or asked he do.

I would have removed the inside side moldings. They usually can do without scuffing as they pull wire rope around, as he seem to be able too. But sometime they mare them. In the 100 series I do all molding and rivets.

I would have used body tape (thick yellow) on A pillars. The backing of molding is metal. If it scrape "A" pillar, it damages the paint.

I'd taken off molding under the hood in perp. Or at least ask he not use the metal tool as he did on fenders, only plastic body tools anytime body contact is made.

I didn't see him using razor (but he must have) to level old urethane around windshield. I always see this done after removing the glass. The wire/rope leaves uneven old unrathan on body as it cuts around glass. This can result in windshield being seated to far from body if not razored level. It may also result in a bad seal. This razoring around the perimeter is a necessary evil. At least evil with the older models like the 100 series. The 100 series has body panel bump-out along top. The bump-outs as I call them, give roofline additional rigidity. Very often as they razor they will nick these bump outs, which is leading cause of rust under the windshield on the 100 series. If they spot the nick and prime with self etching primer it fine. But it's just near impossible to see them. In newer vehicles they have made are much more friendly to the razoring, being wide, flater and open.

I didn't see him remove clips from rivets. I would like to know if he had way to release those also. Clipping them off works (as I did) but destroys them.

I saw him use the adhesion promoter (primer) on glass, then some on body in just a few spots. These spots he primed on body, I was unclear on why. I have seen this used on painted surfaces to promote adhesion of urethane, that's great. I've also seen it used on nicks to cover bare metal, this is very bad. Safelite gave me a bottle to cover bare metal I was derusting under a windshield. I used it and then received a call back from manufactures rep. He explained it is only a adhesion promoter "primer" for urethane and should not be used on bare metal as it will rust. Like bare metal found in nicks that cut through paint to metal. So if he was covering nicks it was a mistake that I find very common by installer. The bottle of adhesion promoter is only marked "Primer", poor labelling IMHO.

It looked like he had the complet OEM kit. Using the adhesive dams SWEET. Look like Toyota/lexus PN sticker on glass, SWEET. New molding and clips, NICE. But said he was going to epoxy the top clips? I assume he had glass stopper but he didn't show using them. 100 series have these stoppers also, and I've never seen them used either. On 100 series where these stopper fit on body, they have small holes leading into cabin. Installers have learned (the hard way) to tape back as dam and fill with urethane. I say hard way as this is a leak point that has cost installer do to water damage. When I read about water damage after a 200 series install, I assume it was from these small holes not being dammed, but I don't know that.

He pointed to headliner an said something about bending, but never came back to it. Not sure what that was, look like headline clip broken.

Lastly he did not use a hood protector. He was careful but still it just good practice.

I know it's little much, well maybe a lot nit picking. But I've dealt with the bad job all to often on the 100 series. I believe it worth ones time to learn proper procedure and be involved.

 

[grinchy]

That video is gold.

 

[radman]

I'm driving to Dallas to have this guy replace my windshield. No jokes!

 

[Cruisin911]

the side moulding isn't too difficult to get off. I just did it to run some wiring up the channel in it to the roof rack. The trick is to use a small flat bladed screwdriver to pop the catches of the metal piece of the moulding. Pull it up a 1/4 inch or so and use the screwdriver to pop it right off. I got the advice from the guy that recently replaced my windshield. If you have a 90* pick, that would work as well. I find those invaluable and a set on amazon is only like 7 or 8 bucks from stanley. Each side is maybe 5 minutes to get off once you understand the mechanism. The clips shown in the above pictures have the correct perspective for removal. Just need to pry both the tabs back while applying even upwards pressure.

 

[grinchy]

Did anyone find the 200 wiper arm torque? M10 is what? 25 ft lbs or so?

 

[grinchy]

I went with 20ft lbs on the wiper arms. Thanks to the linked video I was able to get in and out without breaking any clips or bending the windshield side trim. Ran two silicone jacketed 12 gauge up to the roof.