Winch Restoration

[jvincig01]

I recently acquired this winch (ignore the PTO) and thought about completely restoring it. Well, long story short, I started disassembling and inspecting and everything looked good until I saw these two small cracks on the top of the housing

I do not know much about these so no clue what would have caused it.

Question for the experts...
Is this thing toast?
Do I just scrap the parts?
Do I go all in and continue to restore this?

I am super bummed because this was going to be a fun project.

 

[airon23]

I'm no expert but that may be fixable.

Also I vote yes just for the coolness factor.

 

[Krondor]

I would vote to restore it. See if the cracks could be brazed. It will not melt the metal like TIG welding would. (which could potentially expand the cracks or create micro cracks in the cast metal) The brazing material would still seal up the cracks and prevent future breakage.

 

[kevos37]

Find a fabricator/welder/blacksmith/machinist. Just welding it up is not good enough. Find someone with some skills that understands metal. Krondors spot on with brazing it. There may also be some machining required on the inner bore and the face depending on the repair. And the same goes for that poorly repaired PTO gear box.

If you cannot locate such said individual, I know of one. It will take a while to get the repairs done but he does exceptional work.

I'm surprised that the cast feet on the housings haven't broken. Very common to happen.

Josh, I see this as an opportunity to establish a baseline for a comprehensive "go to" OEM PTO repair thread. Just take your time find a good repair shop and document the hell out of it. IH8MUD will be better for it.

Kevo

 

[jvincig01]

Find a fabricator/welder/blacksmith/machinist. Just welding it up is not good enough. Find someone with some skills that understands metal. Krondors spot on with brazing it. There may also be some machining required on the inner bore and the face depending on the repair. And the same goes for that poorly repaired PTO gear box.

If you cannot locate such said individual, I know of one. It will take a while to get the repairs done but he does exceptional work.

I'm surprised that the cast feet on the housings haven't broken. Very common to happen.

Josh, I see this as an opportunity to establish a baseline for a comprehensive "go to" OEM PTO repair thread. Just take your time find a good repair shop and document the hell out of it. IH8MUD will be better for it.

Kevo

@kevos37 I think you convinced me to dig in on this one and make it pretty again. Although I will likely let it go after I am done, I think it will be a fun restoration. For those that want to know why I don't put it on my own rig, its because I have a header on my '67 that works flawlessly with my column shift. If I setup the PTO and winch, the connecting shaft will interfere. I will start a new thread detailing the rebuild.

 

[kevos37]

@kevos37 I think you convinced me to dig in on this one and make it pretty again. Although I will likely let it go after I am done, I think it will be a fun restoration. For those that want to know why I don't put it on my own rig, its because I have a header on my '67 that works flawlessly with my column shift. If I setup the PTO and winch, the connecting shaft will interfere. I will start a new thread detailing the rebuild.

Sounds excellent. You have nothing to lose and everything to gain. By the way I was thinking of ya, I snagged up a hard to find spider joint for the shaft. I will keep an eye out for a second if you are interested.

Cheers
Kevo

 

[Living in the Past]

Have you looked closely at the mounting points to the angle iron? Particularly on the left side. Would for cracks there, very common to find cracks in those locations.

 

[scrapdaddy]

Here's a fix I stole from someone else on MUD, it stops those gear case/ foot mounting cracks...

 

[jvincig01]

This is great. Thanks guys! I need to call in the experts to help with how to separate this thing and what a completely stock one looks like as far as color goes. For example, I have seen a ton of them with painted rollers, some with polished, the list goes on. Who is the resident expert? @Living in the Past , I seem to see your name on various winch threads.

I know how to remove the worm gear but not the shaft from the spool. Any pointers?

 

[jvincig01]

In order to remove the spindle, I am pretty sure I need to remove the left arm. But how?

 

[Living in the Past]

I do not have any of my TEQ PTO winches or factory manuals around me. Haynes doesn't show a snap ring but that looks like one in the last picture. Is there a slit in that ring on the end?

 

[jvincig01]

I do not have any of my TEQ PTO winches or factory manuals around me. Haynes doesn't show a snap ring but that looks like one in the last picture. Is there a slit in that ring on the end?

I just cleaned it up and confirmed it’s not a snap ring.

 

[Indestructible 47]

I think it's just a tight fit, take a mallet to it. Or else the keys come out somehow first..... this is the fsm

 

[billmc]

I agree, if you remove the clutch lever it should come off.

 

[Living in the Past]

Pictures are very helpful. What I thought might be a snap ring is the end of the brass bushing the shaft rides on. While harder the clutch collar should slide off with the end. But since it always turns with drum is will not slide off near as easy. Once the lever is off and end remove would spray something like WD40 to help soften what is probably dry harden grease. WD40 is a solvent so helps in the tear down but would not use it in the assembly.

 

[whitey45]

Last one I took apart was tight, it is a tight interference fit, but after 40 plus years they can be real tight. Some heat and lube and a mallet are your tools!

 

[4Cruisers]

WD40 is a solvent so helps in the tear down but would not use it in the assembly.

Assembly lube would work in that application.

 

[Living in the Past]

Assembly lube would work in that application.

I would think grease since unlike the engine it will not be lubed by any other means like a engine that assembly lube is used until the oil pump gets a chance to do it's job.

 

[jvincig01]

I think it's just a tight fit, take a mallet to it. Or else the keys come out somehow first..... this is the fsm

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This is very helpful! Thanks!!

 

[jvincig01]

Pictures are very helpful. What I thought might be a snap ring is the end of the brass bushing the shaft rides on. While harder the clutch collar should slide off with the end. But since it always turns with drum is will not slide off near as easy. Once the lever is off and end remove would spray something like WD40 to help soften what is probably dry harden grease. WD40 is a solvent so helps in the tear down but would not use it in the assembly.

Very helpful indeed! I have some kroil that that I can use on that gummed up grease. That stuff is great! I will probably clean up tomorrow when I’m back home .