alia176
SILVER Star
I second car ramps. Any self respecting shade tree mechanic must have a set, or two!
Why We Wrench on our Own Junk (1 Viewer)
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- Thread starter
- #22
I'm not sure the 4Runner would clear the garage ceiling on those. :whoops:
Connie's car and my DD are so low I have trouble getting the floor jack underneath a solid lifting point. The ramps make the job a lot quicker.
-Mike-
-Mike-
I got some pretty beefy steel ramps at a yard sale and then discovered I could only use them on my 4X4 Taco, which I didn't need them for. The front bumper of the Accord would hit the ramps before the tires would, and then they'd just get shoved forward. If you get ramps, make sure the vehicle you intend to use them for will actually work on them.
My VW Golf did the same thing. I would jack it up, throw ramps under, and then change the oil. Could have used jack stands but the ramps were always in my dad's garage.
G
Be VERY careful with this approach. All the O2 sensors I have seen have one wire that somehow senses ambient air characteristics and compares it to exhaust has. This is how the sensor is able manintain the optimal stociometric ratio.
FWIW, I did the Autozone free diagnostic deal, got the error code off the net which specified which sensor was bad. Went back AZ and bought an OEM unit and installed it in about 20 minutes. +/-$100 for the whole adventure.
another for ramps. BUT, (preaching to choir, I know), PLEASE ensure that wheels are chocked and parking brake engaged.
Co-workers friend wound up taking a dirt nap cuz a jack shifted. sad thing.
Co-workers friend wound up taking a dirt nap cuz a jack shifted. sad thing.
My "new-to-me-rig" is just waiting for some PM.
This Honda lived in Boston, MA for its entire life and boy can I tell ya how nasty every single nut and bolt looks in the engine bay.
It's a cherry rig on the outside, but on the inside engine bay, brackets, bolts, nuts, hose unions, etc. are all corroded to hell. I have a lot of PM coming up with lots of expensive OEM Honda parts going in.
List so far:
Struts/springs
swaybars (front, rear, engine bay)
swaybar bushings/bolts
new alternator
new starter
new A/C lines
new battery
new +/- wiring connections
new calipers (all the way around)
new rotors/pads
new lug nuts
clean TB
new tie rods
That's just the start just to get rid of road salt corrosion damage. I can't believe how a 7 year old vehicle is almost decimated due to road salt.
But man, can I tell you how much I love the Honda ride....oh it is good. I don't know if I am going to be able to drive the cruiser ever again....
[joking]
-o-
This Honda lived in Boston, MA for its entire life and boy can I tell ya how nasty every single nut and bolt looks in the engine bay.
It's a cherry rig on the outside, but on the inside engine bay, brackets, bolts, nuts, hose unions, etc. are all corroded to hell. I have a lot of PM coming up with lots of expensive OEM Honda parts going in.
List so far:
Struts/springs
swaybars (front, rear, engine bay)
swaybar bushings/bolts
new alternator
new starter
new A/C lines
new battery
new +/- wiring connections
new calipers (all the way around)
new rotors/pads
new lug nuts
clean TB
new tie rods
That's just the start just to get rid of road salt corrosion damage. I can't believe how a 7 year old vehicle is almost decimated due to road salt.
But man, can I tell you how much I love the Honda ride....oh it is good. I don't know if I am going to be able to drive the cruiser ever again....
[joking]
-o-
I have to confess that I prefer the '98 Accord over the Cruiser when I go camping if it's at all possible for the car to make it wherever the campsite is. And it's not just the double fuel economy numbers but also the easy 80 mph cruising speed and long distance comfort.
I hope you got a good deal on that car. Ours lived in non-salted SE Virginia for its first 4 years and then NM since then so I don't have any corrosion issues.
I hope you got a good deal on that car. Ours lived in non-salted SE Virginia for its first 4 years and then NM since then so I don't have any corrosion issues.
- Thread starter
- #32
I'll drive the Camry before I'll drive the 4R. Much nicer experience.
DanS HJ-45
SILVER Star
You guys are crazy.
I put 800 or so miles on the faux-lux today (Albuquerque-Durango-Ouray-Delta -(McClure Pass)-Basalt-(independance pass)-Salida-Albuquerque.
I just wish that my HJ was driveable. It would have been more fun in a cruiser. Stupid IFS. At least I had a turbo to whine at me the whole time. Comfort is overrated I say.
Dan
I put 800 or so miles on the faux-lux today (Albuquerque-Durango-Ouray-Delta -(McClure Pass)-Basalt-(independance pass)-Salida-Albuquerque.
I just wish that my HJ was driveable. It would have been more fun in a cruiser. Stupid IFS. At least I had a turbo to whine at me the whole time. Comfort is overrated I say.
Dan
alia176
SILVER Star
Senses ambient air characteristics??
The only air characteristics they sense is the exhaust stream. They have no way to know what's in the ambient air.From Wikipedia:
The sensors only work effectively when heated to approximately 800°C (1,472F), so most newer lambda probes have heating elements encased in the ceramic to bring the ceramic tip up to temperature quickly when the exhaust is cold. The probe typically has four wires attached to it: two for the lambda output, and two for the heater power, although some automakers use a common ground for the sensor element and heaters, resulting in three wires. Earlier non-electrically-heated sensors had one or two wires
O2 sensors are O2 sensors, just buy the ones that will work for the application and forget about it.
O2 sensors are O2 sensors, just buy the ones that will work for the application and forget about it.
"I am an Ex Bosch Automotive instructor. First White is heater and Black will be sensor wire. The sensor is a sensor same as any non wide band sensor. the heating element could throw codes but that will be mostly on your OBDII cars. Soldering is the NOT way to. The sensor needs reference air and it gets it down the wire on all bosch sensors. If you solder it you have a chance of sealing off the air."
From: Pelican Parts Technical BBS - Powered by vBulletin
"The probe tip, which is shaped like a small rocket nose cone, is made of high-temperature ceramic that is coated with a very thin layer of platinum that forms an electrode. The tip is protected by a slotted metal tube that allows exhaust gas to flow across the outside surface of the probe. Provision in the sensor body or wiring assures that the ambient air fills the inside of the probe tip."
From: Oxygen Sensors
I was also told the same thing by the folks at Holley Performance when I was considering thier Projection system at one point.
If your sensor has some number of wires with regular insulation and one that has sort of a perforated insulation then that is where the refererence air is coming from.
Onur - It sounds like you need a job at the Honda dealership now, so you can get your employee discount on parts there too! It sounds like you're pumping some money into it - you must have gotten a great deal on the car?
Well, luckily, Larry Miller Group has a couple of Honda places.
The price was the best: 1 car seat, oil/air/cabin filters for a Lexus GS460AWD, dinner at an Italian joint in Boston, and the gas to get it from Boston to ABQ.
That is one heck of a deal.
Thats a great deal!
Im sure that it will be great car for you.
Daisy
Im sure that it will be great car for you.
Daisy
"Provision in the sensor body or wiring assures that the ambient air fills the inside of the probe tip."
So if it doesn't have the "open" wire which actually allows ambient air down the side, it will have another provision in the sensor body to ensure ambient air fills the inside of the probe tip?
Sounds like generic is good enough...
So if it doesn't have the "open" wire which actually allows ambient air down the side, it will have another provision in the sensor body to ensure ambient air fills the inside of the probe tip?
Sounds like generic is good enough...
