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already am and everything looks goodStart with the big white and white blue wires at the Ammeter,
then check the alternator.
Dyno
meaning ... do this because that would be the reason for the pop in that in-line fuse im blowing (which didn't blow before and car ran off it)...Like a few others have said, I'd start by disconnecting power to the alternator. A fried alternator reg will do this.
I resent that remark!trying to figure this out the hard way.
I have my Hongda out and using it...so thank you...but to answer your Question ... no when I put fuse in is fine - I can turn on lights and honk horn etc..OBLy and ONLY upon turn of ignition does it blow.. how should I use my Hongda to diagnose?? meaning check what where..im sure if I sat and thought about it I would give myself my own answer, but its late and the last 4 days have been stressful to say the least.Now would be a good time to break out that Hongda multimeter . Seriously, once you figure out how to do a continuity test and voltage reading, you can diagnose almost any issue on a cruiser.
Are the fusing blowing immediately when you put a new one in?Or is it only after a certain amount of time? It sounds like there's a short somewhere, maybe after you rewired something rubbed through the insulation. I'm not sure what setup you have and whether it's stock, but a quick way of isolating the issue is to pull ALL the fuses from the fuse block, then start inserting them one at a time until the inline fuse blows. That will at the very least narrow down which circuit is causing the issue and save you a lot of frustration. You may not even be able to spot the issue visually, that's where the multimeter comes in handy.
(Edit: just re read your post to say it's only on ignition) Is it when you try and start the engine or when you just have the key in the "on position?
so if I got the Bussman 150Amp rated one ... thoughts? because when car is on and everything bemused and then lets say I had to use my winch because was stuck (while those things are on -radio whatnot...the 50 would blow in a second...because just on the fuse block alone there at least 90amps being drawn. I have ARBlockers, aftermarket tach, dual solenoid (I hooked those up t can aux fuse box but its tied into my ignition therefore pulling from the battery all the same even though I did add a relay for that fuse box.I'd humbly suggesting not putting the OEM fusible link in there, but a decent resettable breaker - like a bussman. One advantage is it's easily resettable, other other is it can be manually tripped and used to disable the vehicle. I use 50 amps. The fuse is just for protection, it has to be pretty big because all the power of the rig is going through it. Don't over think why it blew when it did. Only the LandCruiser gods know.
I have my Hongda out and using it...so thank you...but to answer your Question ... no when I put fuse in is fine - I can turn on lights and honk horn etc..OBLy and ONLY upon turn of ignition does it blow.. how should I use my Hongda to diagnose?? meaning check what where..im sure if I sat and thought about it I would give myself my own answer, but its late and the last 4 days have been stressful to say the least.
so check continuity between the alt lines...volt at the ignition..volt at where then after that? I just dont know how to use it to narrow down whatever it is. walk me througusing the hongda correctly for this situation. help me learn for next time. thx
so if I got the Bussman 150Amp rated one ... thoughts? because when car is on and everything bemused and then lets say I had to use my winch because was stuck (while those things are on -radio whatnot...the 50 would blow in a second...because just on the fuse block alone there at least 90amps being drawn. I have ARBlockers, aftermarket tach, dual solenoid (I hooked those up t can aux fuse box but its tied into my ignition therefore pulling from the battery all the same even though I did add a relay for that fuse box.
do you think 150Amp rated 12v Bussman is overkill? because I think that's what im gunna get considering im rebuilding my winch and want that connected with a quick disconnect so it doesn't cause any parasitic drain to my battery I have that already happening with my Red/clack interior light wire Iines..that particular fuse I have a out already after discovering that was main cause of parasitic drain
I had a similar issue when the 15a engine fuse at the block would blow instantly when I turned the ignition.....it was the connections at the alternator, they were incorrect.
Did you try to unplug the alternator yet as mentioned earlier?
I don't think even a 150A breaker will work with a winch. Some winches pull 400+A under load. You can wire it through a large cutoff switch (flaming river or similar), but most people just wire directly to the battery. The solenoid pack or albright is your disconnect.