maxamillion2345
Franken-80
Clear outdoor silicone on mine
who has sealed their sunroof?
- Thread starter concretejungle
- Start date
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There is some really nice RV sealant called Dicor Self Leveling lap sealant. It comes in a few different colors. Will create a lasting seal on multiple surfaces. I am not affiliated, have just used it on my travel trailer and I am happy with the results.
LS1FJ40
SILVER Star
I will be removing mine and welding it shut. I do not have a moonroof on my 92 and wish I didn't have one on my 93. I opened it once in the past 4 months (since purchase) and that was only to clean the drain tubes. It will be welded closed by the end of summer.
Personally, I wouldn't use silicone. Silicone leaves an oily residue if you ever plan to remove it. I would use Tremco's Vulkem 116 urethane sealant. When I was a roof consultant this is all that I specified for sealant on metal roofs and metal coping cap joints. You can find it at Lowe's (full disclosure, I work at Lowe's but not why I would recommend it.) Urethane remains pliable after curing. I've also heard of silicone promoting corrosion.
Personally, I wouldn't use silicone. Silicone leaves an oily residue if you ever plan to remove it. I would use Tremco's Vulkem 116 urethane sealant. When I was a roof consultant this is all that I specified for sealant on metal roofs and metal coping cap joints. You can find it at Lowe's (full disclosure, I work at Lowe's but not why I would recommend it.) Urethane remains pliable after curing. I've also heard of silicone promoting corrosion.
Formulaonehd
NWZ - The storm is here
Where are those drain holes located? My cab stinks after heavy rain so no doubt they are clogged and theres got to be a leak to go with it.
iptman
SILVER Star
The sunroof drain pan has drain holes in the corners. You can get to the front 2 but not the back 2 without dropping the headliner. The drains he's talking about are on the bottom of the rocker pinch weld. There's also plastic plugs you can remove to drain the rockers. Do some searches on "sunroof drain" and you'll find plenty of threads with info and pictures.
They are little slits along the rocker panels by the pinch seams.
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we had a big snow a week ago and with the snow melt, the cruiser is dry!! Only because i sealed that darn sunroof. If i hadn't of done that, like in the past, the floorboards would be soaked.
For that application, seeing how it’s subjected to constant water. (At times) I would use 3M 5200 Marine Sealant/ Adhesive. That’s what I use on my boats, and it remains flexible ( yet doesn’t “smear” or “ push away” from seams), doesn’t turn “yellow” like regular caulk does, and it WORKS! I cannot recall anything that I’ve used this stuff on that has later leaked! That includes my “under surface” LED ‘s which are bellow the water line 24/7/365 on my bigger boat. I know West Marine sells it.... cost a little more, but worth it! Good luck.
I used a black polyurethane roofing/gutter sealant on mine. Worked like a charm. Some silicone sealants can actually cause corrosion to the sheetmetal over time.
I also disabled the sunroof controls to make sure nobody could screw it up accidentally by trying to use the sunroof if I'm not around.
Disable sunroof -- need the elec gurus
I also disabled the sunroof controls to make sure nobody could screw it up accidentally by trying to use the sunroof if I'm not around.
Disable sunroof -- need the elec gurus
Are all the plugs supposed to be in the rockers? all but the closest ones to the front are. Wasn't sure if supposed to leave them out to drain water or not. would have to seal them off if water has a tendency to get in there and then sit and rust.
thanks
I totally agree with 5200. I used to live on boats literally and this stuff is a fix all. I use it in place of anything non motor related. I wouldn't use it for a temporary fix, it does not come off easy. Good call, Marine7.
So do they not make a replacement seal for the sunroof? I find that hard to believe. Also, has anyone noticed that their sunroof does not seal up level with the roof? Mine looks as if it doesn't raise up all the way. Looks lower than the rest of the roof. Also I read of people extending that drain tube down through the hole below it instead of letting it drip through the weep crack specifically made for it. I figure the less water in contact with metal the better.
No replacement seal. Must buy a whole new glass assembly from Toyota to get a seal.
Can do a "bicycle tube repair" to improve the seal.
If it's not flush on one side only, you probably have a broken cable on it. That's what I have and I have not had time to get it pulled and replaced / fixed. I'm going to find a complete replacement sunroof assembly, go through it and clean / lube / fix it, then drop mine out and replace so my down time is minimal.
Mine has one side that cannot raise to the top and I have it duct taped shut right now.
Well s***.. Thanks Built. I have heard of people doing the tube repair. Are they just gluing a strip to the remaining seal?
Didn't think about a cable being busted. it doesn't struggle in any way or go up/back crooked. Ill look into it. Thanks again.
You slit a bicycle inner tube (used to be a 26", now a 29") and slip it UNDER the existing seal lip to push out the existing seal to make it fit better inside the frame.
If yours doesn't sit low on one side, it just may need cleaned or adjustment with shims.
The 95+ are much easier to deal with due to the one-piece headliner. 94- has multi-section headliners and are a giant undertaking to remove and replace.
iptman
SILVER Star
I pulled mine and tossed them. I feel like if they're open water will always be able to drain out.
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Hmm.. Thanks Patrick I think Ill do the same and rust proof the s*** out of it.
I did the bike tube on mine and have helped a few other guys do it, and every time, it has stopped leaks. While we're there, we also blow out the drain tubes and then pour some water down them to confirm that they're clear. The whole thing takes maybe 30 minutes to do and only requires a 10mm socket. Uh, and a compressor, but only if you want to blow the tubes out while you're there.
The extra space that the tube takes up between the glass and the body may possibly fix the rattle, especially if you never open it.
The extra space that the tube takes up between the glass and the body may possibly fix the rattle, especially if you never open it.
I sealed mine up with some clear RTV silicone about 5 years ago, I pulled the sunroof control panel and unplugged the switches too so no one would accidentally try to open it. No leaks ever since, have never missed it.
My advice would be to mask around the gap real well with some blue painters tape and just go to town, smooth the bead over with a finger, pull up the tape and never worry about it again.
My advice would be to mask around the gap real well with some blue painters tape and just go to town, smooth the bead over with a finger, pull up the tape and never worry about it again.
