White smoke 1HZ - solved (2 Viewers)
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I have a buddy that rebuilds injectors and pumps for a living he recommends low ash 2-stroke oil.
I guess any thing that will add the Lubricity back into the fuel will work.
I guess any thing that will add the Lubricity back into the fuel will work.
JDM Journeys
Moderator
Shell works best in mine too and I add hot shots EDD.
The tank looks squeaky clean (as it should) but those injectors looked nasty so certainly points towards fuel doesn't it?
lowenbrau
SILVER Star
I'm not sure if I read in this thread that you had confirmed pump timing. I think RMLCA still has a SST for that in the tool pool. I'll round it up if you want to do that.
JDM Journeys
Moderator
I have one as well if anyone in North Calgary/Airdrie needs to borrow...
- Thread starter
- #67
Well darn. Drive to the airport great - pulling up hills, power delivery, noise level. That's about half an hour.
Stop for a few minutes to unload, start up again, drive to the first red light, and back to square one. Nothing has changed.
So, once I'm back from Europe the plan of action is to head over to @JDM Journeys next weekend. We will do a compression test just-in-case, since it's easier than removing the pump (and heck, having some baseline numbers can't hurt in the long run). Then, if compression is fine (!), I will likely remove the pump and send it in for rebuild. It is entirely possible it sat dry for 13 years and the gaskets are absolutely toast.
Recommendations in western Canada for rebuild welcome, in case you have a favourite shop please let me know. I remember Okanagan Diesel has a good reputation here on IH8MUD.
Stop for a few minutes to unload, start up again, drive to the first red light, and back to square one. Nothing has changed.
So, once I'm back from Europe the plan of action is to head over to @JDM Journeys next weekend. We will do a compression test just-in-case, since it's easier than removing the pump (and heck, having some baseline numbers can't hurt in the long run). Then, if compression is fine (!), I will likely remove the pump and send it in for rebuild. It is entirely possible it sat dry for 13 years and the gaskets are absolutely toast.
Recommendations in western Canada for rebuild welcome, in case you have a favourite shop please let me know. I remember Okanagan Diesel has a good reputation here on IH8MUD.
yotahed
Diesel Head
Black Fox Diesel Injection Service
Near Kamloops BC
Toyota pumps and injectors are my specialty
Near Kamloops BC
Toyota pumps and injectors are my specialty
mudgudgeon
Resident galah
Sucking air into the fuel.
This is exactly the description of my main symptom with my hzj105
Low too mid rpm acceleration is the greatest demand on fuel
mudgudgeon
Resident galah
When i had this issue, I used a long enough piece of clear hose to loop it out the side of the hood. Latch the hood on the safety latch only, not fully.
Drive it with the loop visible.
If air is the problem, bubbles will be visible from the driver seat.
When mine was stumbling, I'd see a stream of air bubbles. At other times, it was a solid stream of fuel.
Place hose after fuel filter, and directly to the injection pump.
Drive it with the loop visible.
If air is the problem, bubbles will be visible from the driver seat.
When mine was stumbling, I'd see a stream of air bubbles. At other times, it was a solid stream of fuel.
Place hose after fuel filter, and directly to the injection pump.
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- Thread starter
- #71
Yep I did that. (Not out the hood but under
). Just revving it up once warmed up, it was stumbling and smoking but there was no air.I bypassed the filter entirely. This HZJ76 has a strange thing - main fuel hard lines are 10mm including the IP, except for the fuel filter/primer exit, which is 8mm. OEM Toyota hose accounts for this but impossible to do clear from fuel filter to IP.
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mudgudgeon
Resident galah
Yep I did that. (Not out the hood but under
I bypassed the filter entirely. This HZJ76 has a strange thing - main fuel hard lines are 10mm including the IP, except for the fuel filter/primer exit, which is 8mm. OEM Toyota hose accounts for this but impossible to do clear from fuel filter to IP.
bypass the filter
Go clear hose from the hard line at the firewall, straight to the IP.
To do this, you'll need to prefill the clear hose, as you've eliminated the hand primer.
A small air bubble here won't matter. It might sputter a bit as that air bubble finds its way through the system.
Being able to see the hose while driving was an eye opener. Made the problem clear as day.
8mm connections at the filter doesn't sound right. Wonder if the filter assembly is not original.
8mm vs 10mm is a big change in cross-sectional area and flow capacity.
It would increase the vacuum in your fuel line betweenn the 8mm fittings and the IP
8mm cross-sectional area is 50mm2
10mm is 78mm2.
8mm is gonna be less than 64% of the flow capacity of a 10mm line.
- Thread starter
- #73
Exactly, I bypassed the filter. Straight from firewall to IP. No air.
Filter assembly is 100% original, I even ordered a new one because as part of troubleshooting I replaced the primer (common cause of leaks). Input is larger diameter than output. Please ask Mr T why, I have no idea. Small diameter measurements are a guess. It's definitely 10mm for the main lines, but could be 8 or 9 for the filter output. Very noticeable... As I said, OEM fuel line accounts for this, even has markings which side goes where.
mudgudgeon
Resident galah
I got nothing else then. Except make the clear hose visible while you drive it.
It answered my puzzle without a shadow of doubt.
It's still the low cost, low effort, low hanging fruit
White smoke check combustion leak. Head gasket?
I’ve only seen it once working out of Toyota dealership back in the day. Ended up being factory defect. Block test fluid is cheap and pretty easy to use and accurate.
I’ve only seen it once working out of Toyota dealership back in the day. Ended up being factory defect. Block test fluid is cheap and pretty easy to use and accurate.
Where is the update on cause , all I see is it's fixed
- Thread starter
- #77
Really bad fuel, must have clogged up injector pump. After running lots of LiquiMoly Diesel Purge through and letting it sit in the IP overnight it cleared up all the issues.
Thats great news. Glad it worked out.
I'm curious what made you decide to replace the entire injector instead of just the nozzle ?
I'm fixing to get spares and saw you listed yours but I was only looking at the nozzles .
From posts on here the nozzles are what fail the rest are ok. Was it a matter of time or not needing to disassemble?
I'm curious what made you decide to replace the entire injector instead of just the nozzle ?
I'm fixing to get spares and saw you listed yours but I was only looking at the nozzles .
From posts on here the nozzles are what fail the rest are ok. Was it a matter of time or not needing to disassemble?
- Thread starter
- #79
Generally I believe it is recommended/necessary to pop test your injectors after replacing the nozzles.
In my case, time at home is my most precious commodity, so I accept taking a monetary loss when reasonable. In this case I ended up with brand-new OEM Denso injectors, complete with nozzle - making me good to go for a few K km's, likely. (The fact the injectors were actually good-to-go is a whole other story...)
In my case, time at home is my most precious commodity, so I accept taking a monetary loss when reasonable. In this case I ended up with brand-new OEM Denso injectors, complete with nozzle - making me good to go for a few K km's, likely. (The fact the injectors were actually good-to-go is a whole other story...)
JDM Journeys
Moderator
I did the same as Jan. My injectors had 250k kms on them and were original. The cost difference up here wasn't huge between rebuilding or getting brand new, so I went with new. I sold my old ones to recoup some of the cost, and was happy with the results.
