Builds White LC200 OEM+ Build Documentation

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Joined
Jul 26, 2024
Threads
6
Messages
97
Location
Oregon, PA
Hi, My name is Amit and I am a relatively new owner of a 2008 Toyota Landcruiser. I bought the truck about 6 months ago and have been spending a lot of time (and unfortunately money) baselining it to bring it to like new mechanical condition and some tasteful upgrades to modernize the interior and some exterior. Using this thread to build a build thread to document my journey and share learnings if anyone is interested. I have learnt so much from this forum and enjoyed the community of cruiser lovers and thought it would only be fair to give back.

When I bought the truck it had 174k miles. I was owned primarily by the family of a dealer who kept it well maintained and then owned by a second gentleman who kept up with routine maintenance (oil changes, tires, brakes) and some repairs(radiator etc.) but I wanted to bring the car back to my standards.

Here is a list of what I have done to baseline the truck, followed up a list of mofications done and planned>

Baselining and Associated Cost:
1. OEM Wiper and Gas Cap: $97
2. Oil and Filter Change: $120
3.OEM Front and rear brake pads and rotors: $534 +$250 install
4. Aftermarket Serpentine belt+ aftermarket tensioner pulley+ aftermarket idler pulley+aisin(OEM) water pump: $202+$500 install
5. Aftermarket parking brake shoes: $66+$100 install
6. OEM front driver's inner and outer tie rod (because they were siezed): $178+$150install
7. Wheel alignment: $230 lifetime wheel alignment as I tend to keep this car for while
8. Spark Plugs: $100 w/self install
9. Valve cover gasket with tube seals (since I discovered some oil in spark plug well): $600
10. Throttle body cleaning: $5 self. This was the largest bang for my buck in drivability. The car idles and drives beautfully and it made a larger than expected difference in driving experience.
11. Radiator, radiator hose, clamps, fan and fan clutch (still to be done but is scheduled): $816+$400 install. The car has an aftermarket radiator that I didn't like and recently discovered was leaking so choosing to replace with the superseded radiator part number that addresses the issue with the first gen radiator bursting from the top seal.

Upgrades:
1. Grom Vline VL2: $550 on a ih8mud group sale w/ self install
2. Front driver's seat cover replacement: $250+$125 install. I got them from a company called richmond automotive. They matches color and leather quality 90%.
3. Steering Wheel: In installed a steering wheel from the 2016-2021 LC200 in full black leather. My steering wheel has weathered slightly and had scratches on the top faux wood. I missed the feeling of good leather. I used OEM parts where I could and got the new steering wheel rewrapped in high quality black leather professionally.
4. Gear knob. The LC200 comes with a gear knob with faux wood that weathers really easily. I tried one of those cheap amazon replacements but it left me wanting. I found out about this etsy channel from watching thecarcarenut channel on youtube of a guy who makes toyota gearknobs out of real wood to match the interior and it came out really nice. It is defintiely old school feeling but the real wood makes for a pleasant feel.

Planned Upgrades.
4. Front headlights from 2013-2015 LC200 with used ballasts and new bulbs: $1220+$100 install. This is in the books and parts have been ordered. I ordered a set of OEM headlights from TPD and a headlight harness off off aliexpress after reading numerous threads here. I hope it is as plug and play as others say it is as I am planning on swapping them out during my radiator swap.
5. Dobinson's mild lift and suspension. I have not completely made my mind up on this but a friend of mine who is a LC expert and afficionado runs a group buy and install for Dobinson's IMS 1.5-2" lift with all new control arms and diff lift kits with install for ~3600 and I'm planning on doing this next year potentially. Need to save up a little.

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Forgot two maintenance items:
12. PCV valve replacement: $12
13. Transmission fluid drain and fill +filter replacement: $350.

I tried to tackle all the mechanical maintenance items before jumping to upgrades. Didn't realize it would cost me so much just to baseline the car but it drives absolutely fantastically now.

If anyone has any feedback on mild lifts and wheel and tire combo I am all ears. I am currently thinking about the dobinson's or a tundra suspension (which I heard can be a bolt on upgrade with real Toyota TRD parts).
 
All the baselining work will be worth it. With that kind of care it will run a long time. If you’re planning suspension work, take a look at the condition of the KDSS shutter valve allen screws. If those are crusty, best to start now trying to get them loose (but only 3 turns max).
 
Looks great with the steering wheel. Are all of the controls plug in and play and functional?
 
Very nice. Curious about the new seat covers. Can you provide some after pics? And a link to your source? Thanks.

Guy
 
very nice - i have a similar thread with “cheap” in the title

I was going to add the leather cover on my wheel because I was afraid new wheel controls wouldnt work

i have ridden in Dobinson 200 before going with Bilstein which are MUCH better
 
A a Very nice. Curious about the new seat covers. Can you provide some after pics? And a link to your source? Thanks.

Guy
Richmond auto upholstery I think they’re called. Found em on eBay and ordered from their site directly. Took a while to come though. Picture of after below.

IMG_7972.jpeg
 
All the baselining work will be worth it. With that kind of care it will run a long time. If you’re planning suspension work, take a look at the condition of the KDSS shutter valve allen screws. If those are crusty, best to start now trying to get them loose (but only 3 turns max).
Thanks I needed to hear that. How do I go about checking that? I’ve come across some thread the past that mentioned that but didn’t go into detail on how to actually inspect and check. If you know how to inspect it and how far to go to try and unstrip the bolt let me know. I’m weary to try any “experimental” stuff on my car after trying to switch into central locking diff and getting stuck with it on. It was a big pita to get it to come out of diff lock. I’m afraid there are other gremlins from lack of use.

P.s. I’ve loved this community of tinkerers. Never thought I’d find likely minded and mechanically inclined people just sharing the love for a single car.
 
Looks great with the steering wheel. Are all of the controls plug in and play and functional?
Yes sir. All functional, of course without the buttons that actually has no function (radar cruise, lane keep etc.) functions on the old steering wheel retained. I was afraid of this too but luckily surprised. Happy to be the one to bite the bullet test it out.
 
very nice - i have a similar thread with “cheap” in the title

I was going to add the leather cover on my wheel because I was afraid new wheel controls wouldnt work

i have ridden in Dobinson 200 before going with Bilstein which are MUCH better
Which bilstein ones? The ones that come in the tundra TRD pro you mean? What did you not like about the Dobinsons?
 
Hi, My name is Amit and I am a relatively new owner of a 2008 Toyota Landcruiser. I bought the truck about 6 months ago and have been spending a lot of time (and unfortunately money) baselining it to bring it to like new mechanical condition and some tasteful upgrades to modernize the interior and some exterior. Using this thread to build a build thread to document my journey and share learnings if anyone is interested. I have learnt so much from this forum and enjoyed the community of cruiser lovers and thought it would only be fair to give back.

When I bought the truck it had 174k miles. I was owned primarily by the family of a dealer who kept it well maintained and then owned by a second gentleman who kept up with routine maintenance (oil changes, tires, brakes) and some repairs(radiator etc.) but I wanted to bring the car back to my standards.

Here is a list of what I have done to baseline the truck, followed up a list of mofications done and planned>

Baselining and Associated Cost:
1. OEM Wiper and Gas Cap: $97
2. Oil and Filter Change: $120
3.OEM Front and rear brake pads and rotors: $534 +$250 install
4. Aftermarket Serpentine belt+ aftermarket tensioner pulley+ aftermarket idler pulley+aisin(OEM) water pump: $202+$500 install
5. Aftermarket parking brake shoes: $66+$100 install
6. OEM front driver's inner and outer tie rod (because they were siezed): $178+$150install
7. Wheel alignment: $230 lifetime wheel alignment as I tend to keep this car for while
8. Spark Plugs: $100 w/self install
9. Valve cover gasket with tube seals (since I discovered some oil in spark plug well): $600
10. Throttle body cleaning: $5 self. This was the largest bang for my buck in drivability. The car idles and drives beautfully and it made a larger than expected difference in driving experience.
11. Radiator, radiator hose, clamps, fan and fan clutch (still to be done but is scheduled): $816+$400 install. The car has an aftermarket radiator that I didn't like and recently discovered was leaking so choosing to replace with the superseded radiator part number that addresses the issue with the first gen radiator bursting from the top seal.

Upgrades:
1. Grom Vline VL2: $550 on a ih8mud group sale w/ self install
2. Front driver's seat cover replacement: $250+$125 install. I got them from a company called richmond automotive. They matches color and leather quality 90%.
3. Steering Wheel: In installed a steering wheel from the 2016-2021 LC200 in full black leather. My steering wheel has weathered slightly and had scratches on the top faux wood. I missed the feeling of good leather. I used OEM parts where I could and got the new steering wheel rewrapped in high quality black leather professionally.
4. Gear knob. The LC200 comes with a gear knob with faux wood that weathers really easily. I tried one of those cheap amazon replacements but it left me wanting. I found out about this etsy channel from watching thecarcarenut channel on youtube of a guy who makes toyota gearknobs out of real wood to match the interior and it came out really nice. It is defintiely old school feeling but the real wood makes for a pleasant feel.

Planned Upgrades.
4. Front headlights from 2013-2015 LC200 with used ballasts and new bulbs: $1220+$100 install. This is in the books and parts have been ordered. I ordered a set of OEM headlights from TPD and a headlight harness off off aliexpress after reading numerous threads here. I hope it is as plug and play as others say it is as I am planning on swapping them out during my radiator swap.
5. Dobinson's mild lift and suspension. I have not completely made my mind up on this but a friend of mine who is a LC expert and afficionado runs a group buy and install for Dobinson's IMS 1.5-2" lift with all new control arms and diff lift kits with install for ~3600 and I'm planning on doing this next year potentially. Need to save up a little.

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Nice to see another desi with a white LC here. I own a 2020, but I still think the original 2008 200 series was by far the most beautiful looking of the various appearance changes.
 
Welcome to the Egg Restoration Gang! You are member #2

Love the steering wheel upgrade, and i will also be doing the 2013+ headlight conversion

Look forward to following along your build
 
Thanks I needed to hear that. How do I go about checking that? I’ve come across some thread the past that mentioned that but didn’t go into detail on how to actually inspect and check. If you know how to inspect it and how far to go to try and unstrip the bolt let me know. I’m weary to try any “experimental” stuff on my car after trying to switch into central locking diff and getting stuck with it on. It was a big pita to get it to come out of diff lock. I’m afraid there are other gremlins from lack of use.

P.s. I’ve loved this community of tinkerers. Never thought I’d find likely minded and mechanically inclined people just sharing the love for a single car.
The KDSS helps keeps the leaning under control on curves at highway speeds while also allowing good articulation off road. It will fight you when doing suspension work unless you loosen the shutter valves (no more than 3 turns) to allow the fluid to move internally. The valve is located beside the frame rail under the drivers side passenger door. It has a metal shield over it but you can see it and get at the Allen screws through a slot. It is extremely prone to rust and it can be challenging to get those screws loose unless it’s been kept greased. Here is an extensive thread on the issue.

 
Recently threw in the updated radiator (that doesn’t blow up on you), new heater tees, fan clutch and cooling fan since I saw a crack emerging. Flushed out almost all the coolant too in the process. Last of the mechanical baselining. It drives soooo smooth! Parts and labor were around $1100 all in.

I already upgraded to the 2013-2015 style headlights. Picture below. This was a costly upgrade (at almost 1400). but increases safety/visibility and modernizes the front end a lot!

IMG_8146.jpeg
 
I like the steering wheel upgrade! Anything you needed to do to make it work? Do all of the buttons function?

I’m curious as well

Especially the airbag???

I have the 2013+ headlights here I’m about to swap this weekend as well
 
Did you change the front and rear differential fluids and the transfer case?

Blauparts has a nice kit with German made Ravenol oil both for the diffs and tc which does it break the bank and seems quality oil. The bottles have a hose build in the cap allowing you to squeeze it in without the need to pump it. Makes it much easier.

Interesting enough Toyota specifies a change every 30k to 50k miles for these fluids. I found quite a bit of run in on the magnetic plugs (black sludge, no particles in my case, which means it is all good).

Nice to see a 2008 in great shape. Did you install the upholstery yourself? I have replaced once the front seat covers on a Jeep Wrangler and that was quite easy with these hog rings and took for the same.
 
Did you change the front and rear differential fluids and the transfer case?

Blauparts has a nice kit with German made Ravenol oil both for the diffs and tc which does it break the bank and seems quality oil. The bottles have a hose build in the cap allowing you to squeeze it in without the need to pump it. Makes it much easier.

Interesting enough Toyota specifies a change every 30k to 50k miles for these fluids. I found quite a bit of run in on the magnetic plugs (black sludge, no particles in my case, which means it is all good).

Nice to see a 2008 in great shape. Did you install the upholstery yourself? I have replaced once the front seat covers on a Jeep Wrangler and that was quite easy with these hog rings and took for the same.
I have all the records and the front and rear diff and transfer case fluid was changed about a 8 months ago so I didn’t do it for baselining.

Flushing the transmission did make things smoother though but that might just be my butt talking. Fluid that came out was fresh and no sludge build up and shop indicated it was most likely changed before which was great news. Always touchy to change transmission fluid at high mileage. Cleaning the throttle body (which I did myself) made a huge difference in drivability.

I didn’t install it myself. Paid a shop ~180 to install it.
 
I’m curious as well

Especially the airbag???

I have the 2013+ headlights here I’m about to swap this weekend as well
It was pretty much plug and play. 0.5🍌 job in your lingo. Sourcing the wheel was tough, I got a used steering wheel and re-wrapped in black leather.

Let me know if you’re in the market for a steering wheel. I might be able to source a used OEM black leather wrapped steering wheel including the airbag for $900. Tough to find options in the market including airbag for a reasonable price. When I was sourcing I had two options and I passed on the second because it didn’t have the voice command button - Not that I use the voice command feature though. Attaching photo just in case.

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