White-Knuckle Offroad Sliders

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

The real engineering question is: is damage to the sliders acceptable? I think we know that either will protect the rocker under typical off roading conditions, ie. not airborne and slamming into rocks etc. so the idea thinking as an engineer is to first protect and then cost vs acceptable damage. The analysis would be arbitary but the idea would to be pick a worst case scenario that the rocker would encounter and go from there. The manufacurer might be able to provide this calc if asked for it.
 
yes, damage to sliders is accepted and expected to the point they are still usable for my next trip. If they failed it would cause damage to vehicle or make the sliders worthless....but damage while protecting and with many more incidents remaining is what they are all about. To me at least...
 
Brock said:
yes, damage to sliders is accepted and expected to the point they are still usable for my next trip. If they failed it would cause damage to vehicle or make the sliders worthless....but damage while protecting and with many more incidents remaining is what they are all about. To me at least...
Click to expand...

^Agreed!
 
Got the gen 2 WKOR Sliders with diamond plated step installed. DOM tubing and powder-coated. I know some of you guys wanted to see what they'd look like on a 100.

6935857003_8a3f83ffda_z.jpg

6935857309_f051fd2a03_z.jpg

6789742850_c854769f90_z.jpg

6935858043_6cc6ca558b_z.jpg

6789743516_660c5261e5_z.jpg

6789743890_f01f0bb870_z.jpg
 
KlausVanWinkle said:
Got the gen 2 WKOR Sliders with diamond plated step installed. DOM tubing and powder-coated. I know some of you guys wanted to see what they'd look like on a 100.
Click to expand...


Rugged elegance at its best! Nice choice on the diamond plate!
 
KlausVanWinkle said:
I don't want to get flagged for protecting my protection but I'm worried about rust forming between the diamond plating and the tube. So I waxed mine with some Nu-Polish. Should make cleaning easier too.
Click to expand...

Funny you should mention that about the rusting. I'm a bit concerned too so before I weld the sliders to the frame I'm gonna run a bead of weld inside all the way around. Then I'll just touch up with a rattle can. :D
 
I highly recommend to get the underside cavity line-X'd or equivalent. Dirt and water can get trapped between the tube and plate allowing it to rust from underneath. Here's my Slee step sliders where they rusted from underneath. If I bought them again I would do this before the rust had a chance to start.
image-2717674793.webp
image-4272516062.webp
image-1542035485.webp
 
Last edited:
Greg B said:
I highly recommend to get the underside cavity line-X'd or equivalent. Dirt and water can get trapped between the tube and plate allowing it to rust from underneath. Here's my Slee step sliders where they rusted from underneath. If I bought them again I would do this before the rust had a chance to start.
Click to expand...

I saw your thread with the pics before which is why I became concerned about the rust! I hadn't thought about line-x underneath. I can't think of a reason why that wouldn't work good and it would certainly be easier than welding it all!
 
I dont know about silicone spray, that gap is hard to get to underneath the step plate because of the round tube. $75 is not much up front to coat underneath, I ended up cutting out the plates, and then spent $310 getting them glass blasted and powder coated. Plus another $50 to get the mounting brackets LineX'd. Hindsight is 20/20.
 
Adventure Copan said:
I saw your thread with the pics before which is why I became concerned about the rust! I hadn't thought about line-x underneath. I can't think of a reason why that wouldn't work good and it would certainly be easier than welding it all!
Click to expand...

Agreed, if that cavity is coated from underneath, the top should be fine with rattlecann touch ups.
 
Yall think this would work?

Amazon.com: Eastwood Black Heavy Duty Anti Rust Cavity Wax Aerosol: Automotive

From what I remember Line-X isn't rust proof. Water can some how get underneath it, get trapped and start rusting.

I used eastwood products to deal with frame and underbody rust. Seems to work well so far. This might be a good solution. Spray this up there every once in a while.
 
KlausVanWinkle said:
Yall think this would work?

Amazon.com: Eastwood Black Heavy Duty Anti Rust Cavity Wax Aerosol: Automotive

From what I remember Line-X isn't rust proof. Water can some how get underneath it, get trapped and start rusting.

I used eastwood products to deal with frame and underbody rust. Seems to work well so far. This might be a good solution. Spray this up there every once in a while.
Click to expand...

This does seem like it could be a better choice. Is this the stuff that stays kinda gooey?
 
Last edited:
ckkone said:
Great ideas!

I've always liked the quality of 3M products and plan to stop by my local body shop supply store tomorrow and see what they offer:

http://3mcollision.com/products/coatings/undercoating?aad_adhesive_form=397&aad_coating_application=712&color=24

Another idea I had was to caulk all the seams underneath with black polyurethane sealant before applying the undercoat:

http://www.loctiteproducts.com/p/pl_seal_rf/overview/Loctite-PL-Polyurethane-Roof-&-Flashing-Sealant.htm
Click to expand...

I was going to do a silicone too, but now I wouldn't do the silicone (sealant), seams like just the undercoat alone would work best. IMHO.
~Daniel

Gonna do mine next week and weld them to the frame along with the bolts and then use the sealant around my welds!
 
Finally installed them and took me about an hour to put on. Instructions were great and hardware provided are super strong.

Thanks again John @ WK for creating an awesome product.
image-3642731853.webp
image-2610735587.webp
image-1663686707.webp
image-3690668603.webp
image-513296270.webp
image-4071126638.webp
image-378627730.webp
image-4073667174.webp
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Share this page

Back
Top Bottom