White-Knuckle Offroad Sliders

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are the new sliders the full length. The older ones, that that i have seen in person on nick and my truck stop an inch or 2 short in the front as is.
 
WK Slider & Mud Flap

I cut out some of the flap for the slider.
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I would not shorten the WK sliders. Honestly, I would lengthen them. I have hit both fenders where the slider tubing comes out and kinked both sides badly. This probably isn't a problem for 99% of the wheelers, but for those who play on the rocks, this is an issue.
 
I would not shorten the WK sliders. Honestly, I would lengthen them. I have hit both fenders where the slider tubing comes out and kinked both sides badly. This probably isn't a problem for 99% of the wheelers, but for those who play on the rocks, this is an issue.

Nah, your tires are too small :flipoff2:

Seriously though I think John tried to balance protection with tire rub when settling on the length to accommodate larger rubber without slider mods.
 
AimCOtaco said:
Nah, your tires are too small :flipoff2:

Seriously though I think John tried to balance protection with tire rub when settling on the length to accommodate larger rubber without slider mods.

I like my 33's :). Here are the weak points of the WK sliders. The outer tube is a little short.
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interesting, my inner tube is too short, but at least and inch, and the back is lined up even,
 
interesting, my inner tube is too short, but at least and inch, and the back is lined up even,

The rear is fine, I have thought about unbolting mine, pushing them up further and welding them on. As welding an extension would be pretty hard.
 
I talked to John today, he said to let him know if you get rust on your top plates and he'll help you convert it to a bolt in system. He's switched to a bolt in step design now (wish I'd waited for that or thought of it before I ordered mine).

Does anyone have pics of the WK sliders with the new bolt-in step design? Or do they pretty much look exactly the same as the weld-on step?

For rust protection purposes I'd imagine that the coating quality would be better without the step. Bolting it on afterwards seems like the way to go.
 
Does anyone have pics of the WK sliders with the new bolt-in step design? Or do they pretty much look exactly the same as the weld-on step? For rust protection purposes I'd imagine that the coating quality would be better without the step. Bolting it on afterwards seems like the way to go.

Agreed. Mines starting to rust. And yes the mounts come too close to the body. I need to take mine off and grind them down and deal with rust. Also John seems to be MIA now.
 
Agreed. Mines starting to rust. And yes the mounts come too close to the body. I need to take mine off and grind them down and deal with rust. Also John seems to be MIA now.

Well that bites. I was getting close to pulling the trigger on those.
 
concerning how close the slider comes to the rockers, particualry nearer to the front of the truck, I cut a slab of hard rubber from an old workshop floor mat and wedged it behind the mounting bracket to "aim" the slider away from the rocker. Ended up giving me +/- 3/4'' more clearance from the body.

...and I have no idea how the hell it was doing it, but I chased a vibration/rattle sound at low speeds for months, only to find out it was coming from the slider. The slab of rubber stopped the sound.
 
There is a decent amount of wiggle room on the frame mounts. No matter how tight I crank mine (I worry about denting the frame), my sliders shift up on the frame the first time I hit them. Then the top of the mount rubs on the body and squeaks and the front of the slider is almost kissing the rocker panel behind the front tire. It seems like there is always an inch gap at the rear and no gap at the front. Also, they should be about an inch longer.
 

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