Which of these recommendations should I get done? (1 Viewer)

[Jwoodywild]

Truck went in for an oil change today - just passed 303,000 miles. Here are the shop "recommendations ". The fog lights I don't care about and the light out indicator I know how to fix. What other items on here would you say are critical and about what would they cost, give or take? I would have an indy shop doing the work unless it is something so simple that a YouTube video could explain it such that a monkey could do it without screwing it up.

 

[oakback]

I'll prioritize based on my own opinion as a shadetree diy'er with questionable maintenance habits, 1-4 highest to lowest, or DIY. I'm sure others will have very different opinions.

You can drive with pulsing brakes, but it's annoying (I'm currently driving with pulsing brakes). If you're confident enough to change a tire, I'd highly recommend changing your own pads/rotors. It's a DIY project with a high savings to effort ratio. - DIY
A failed starter can leave you stranded (mine did, had to tow home). - 1
You can drive safely without the diff locking reliably (unless a CV fails). You can also regularly cycle the diff lock which might improve it, mine did. - 4
I'll let others comment on the timing belt, but I'm currently gambling on mine for a bit while I fix other things. - 3
A dirty air filter can reduce power and MPG, also a monkey can do this...replace your own filter asap. - DIY
Axle/CV play, check the c-clips under the grease caps yourself. This might be a super easy DIY fix if the clips are missing or dislodged. If you have to change the CV axles, I'd prioritize it as a 3, or 2 if you're offroading or towing regularly. If they break you can lock the center diff and keep driving (I drove with locked center diff for a while until I got mine fixed). - 3/2
Leaking transmission fluid can eventually leave you stranded if you don't keep it filled, and you're staining anywhere you park. You could constantly check the fluid and top it off, but changing a radiator shouldn't take a shop much time at all. - 2
The steering rack will steadily get worse over time, but likely won't dramatically fail and strand you. Also you'll need to keep topping up fluid, and you're staining anywhere you park. I kept mine topped off but stupidly waited until it leaked a pint in a day. - 3
You can drive safely without covers. - 4

 

[CJF]

Btw, is a radiator replacement a major issue and difficult to do?

Look for yourself at the fittings they're claiming are leaking and then decide.

 

[Rhetoric]

Btw, is a radiator replacement a major issue and difficult to do?

Failed radiators are a leading cause of 2UZ engine failures. Leaking from the trans cooler lines would also lead to trans failure eventually.

It's not difficult for someone mechanically inclined. I've done mine twice due to thinking I could save some money on a cheap "OE" radiator.

It's also hard for us here to really see what's going on through the internet.

 

[excessive]

prioritize the Radiator replacement, peace of mind.

 

[Jwoodywild]

prioritize the Radiator replacement, peace of mind.

Thanks. There is no fluid anywhere on the ground.
What is frustrating about these "recommendations" is they are spit out of a computer with no context.

 

[Rhetoric]

Thanks. There is no fluid anywhere on the ground.
What is frustrating about these "recommendations" is they are spit out of a computer with no context.

A computer looked over your truck and printed these out? Did you prompt it for responses? No human interaction?

Unless I'm missing something the context is there. Such as: Radiator replacement - transmission cooler fittings leaking. The context is that your fittings are leaking.

 

[Jwoodywild]

A computer looked over your truck and printed these out? Did you prompt it for responses? No human interaction?

Unless I'm missing something the context is there. Such as: Radiator replacement - transmission cooler fittings leaking. The context is that your fittings are leaking.

I have many print outs at various oil changes that describe a "leak" when it is so minor as to barely be noticed. Then there are leaks when you can clearly see an issue. One should be addressed ASAP and the other can wait a while. Obviously not everything is the same - and there is no list of priorities.

Certainly, you can just fix everything on the list every time. Perhaps that is what you do?

 

[Trunk Monkey]

A bunch of those look like they're from September, so if you've been driving the truck fine since then, doubt they're too critical. I'd base my decisions on what hasn't been done ever or unknown miles ago - coolant system, brakes, steering, hubs, etc.

 

[Jwoodywild]

A bunch of those look like they're from September, so if you've been driving the truck fine since then, doubt they're too critical. I'd base my decisions on what hasn't been done ever or unknown miles ago - coolant system, brakes, steering, hubs, etc.

Good advice. There is a "clunk" when putting the rig into reverse - not sure if that is an easy fix. The guys at the shop said it was a function of greasing the driveshaft but it seems to remain even after that is done. Not a huge deal re: daily driving but not sure if it is a symptom of something larger.

 

[Rhetoric]

I have many print outs at various oil changes that describe a "leak" when it is so minor as to barely be noticed. Then there are leaks when you can clearly see an issue. One should be addressed ASAP and the other can wait a while. Obviously not everything is the same - and there is no list of priorities.

Certainly, you can just fix everything on the list every time. Perhaps that is what you do?

Our situations are not identical.

I do my own inspections then I triage what needs to be done if something arises. I stick to a pretty strict/routine PM schedule for fluid / filter / component replacements. I do all my own work when time allows and typically purchase parts ahead of time during the SE Toyota sales that happen a few times a year.

When time has not allowed, I have a trusted mechanic I can have a discussion with. I have usually always triaged the issue and have a plan of what I want replaced / fixed before having that discussion.

The newest 100 series in the US is 18 years old. Regardless of mileage, these trucks need a careful set of eyes to monitor for issues.

 

[andrewderrick]

I'd replace radiator, hoses, and heater tees - ask for Genuine Toyota stuff. After that I'd do a starter.

 

[modus]

BRAKE PULSE IS A SCAM!

Makes your brake lights flicker when you press the brakes.
It’s gimmicky and technically against DOT laws

 

[Trunk Monkey]

Pretty sure they're talking about a pulsing feeling when you press the brakes.

 

[Malleus]

@Jwoodywild How much money do you have lying around?
The lower radiator tank is for the transmission cooler circuit. It's most likely that your hoses are weeping. I would replace them. (4) of the (5) hoses are still available; buy OEM - do not try to use SAE hose. You'll regret it.
If you lose that ATF, you lose the transmission.

» I'm not you, but if I was, that would be a priority.

If you really have aftermarket CV axles, and the boots are shot, do not reboot them. Replace them with OEM CV axles; they'll have new boots on them when you get them. They are currently running about $360 each, with a flat rate of $150 to ship a pair. Those are east coast prices.

That would be second on my list, if I wanted to keep the truck.
Steering rack boots would be third.

I would not let any independent shop work on any of my Land Cruisers, unless they could prove they knew what they were doing. These are not Jeep Cherokees.

I love the stator problem. Which generator does that belong to?
Seriously, if it's the starter, and not a stator, that's a job I'd give someone else money to do. I'd rather replace a front end on a 100 series than screw around with that starter.

 

[Jwoodywild]

Our situations are not identical.

I do my own inspections then I triage what needs to be done if something arises. I stick to a pretty strict/routine PM schedule for fluid / filter / component replacements. I do all my own work when time allows and typically purchase parts ahead of time during the SE Toyota sales that happen a few times a year.

When time has not allowed, I have a trusted mechanic I can have a discussion with. I have usually always triaged the issue and have a plan of what I want replaced / fixed before having that discussion.

The newest 100 series in the US is 18 years old. Regardless of mileage, these trucks need a careful set of eyes to monitor for issues.

Pretty sure they're talking about a pulsing feeling when you press the brakes.

I don't feel it and neither does my wife when she drives it.

They measured the pads at front 4mm rear 6mm

 

[Jwoodywild]

@Jwoodywild How much money do you have lying around?
The lower radiator tank is for the transmission cooler circuit. It's most likely that your hoses are weeping. I would replace them. (4) of the (5) hoses are still available; buy OEM - do not try to use SAE hose. You'll regret it.
If you lose that ATF, you lose the transmission.

» I'm not you, but if I was, that would be a priority.

If you really have aftermarket CV axles, and the boots are shot, do not reboot them. Replace them with OEM CV axles; they'll have new boots on them when you get them. They are currently running about $360 each, with a flat rate of $150 to ship a pair. Those are east coast prices.

That would be second on my list, if I wanted to keep the truck.
Steering rack boots would be third.

I would not let any independent shop work on any of my Land Cruisers, unless they could prove they knew what they were doing. These are not Jeep Cherokees.

I love the stator problem. Which generator does that belong to?
Seriously, if it's the starter, and not a stator, that's a job I'd give someone else money to do. I'd rather replace a front end on a 100 series than screw around with that starter.

I am not doing any of the work. There are two indy shops here in the San Diego area people seem to like that work only on Cruisers. I am happy to do preventative work and not wait to the very last minute but I don't want to fix things that can run awhile without major implications either.

 

[Rhetoric]

I don't feel it and neither does my wife when she drives it.

They measured the pads at front 4mm rear 6mm

3mm is typically when it's recommended to replace brake pads.

On the topic of pulsing: my truck had Napa pads and rotors in the rear when I bought it. After 1 winter, these started pulsing terribly. Replaced with pads / rotors / guide pins & boots from Toyota and they have been smooth as silk for 3 years.

If you can't feel the pulse or if you aren't seeing fluid pouring out of the truck, there probably isn't much concern. Be aware, though: the factory metal skid plate and the plastic underbelly will catch a lot of fluids before showing any kind of drips on the ground. So a visual inspection each oil change is a good rule of thumb!

 

[2001LC]

Yr, LC or LX. Vary in PM needs. Best, to list what you have.

But I'd say a very lame inspection, for a 300K miles 100 series. Unless very well cared for, which only a few used new purchases are.
Some items listed, indicate, it was not well cared for. Like; axle play/hub flange clunk & CV (AKA: FDS) boots, brake pulse.

That said:

1. Brakes are a safety items, so takes top priority.
2. Next look at issue that may result in damage and or additional cost, if not take care of now. Filters & leaks are some of those to be considered.
3. All used vehicle should have all fluid flushed.

"Brake pulse" is a bit vague. We typically feel the pulse in steering wheel and or vehicle bucking and or pedal. Excessive brake pulse, may result pound (pulsing) of fluid, back into master/ABS unit. This can result in ABS issue, in old brake master fluid not well cared for.

Grade your master:

Brakes ...... Overdue write-up.

First and foremost: Brakes should only be worked by those, with high level of mechanical abilities and experienced with brake systems. With the age of all 100 series today, in our aging fleet. Any issue, with brake master assembly. IMHO, best and safest course of action. Have the whole brake...

forum.ih8mud.com

"Brake pulse" This indicates, warped (runout greater than spec limit and or parallelism, out of spec) brake rotors disk surface. We feel this much more, from fronts rotors than rears.

"Brake pulse" an easy fix: Have rotor disk surface, machine turned on the vehicle (OTV). Runs about $100 per rotor. With OTV Brake Lathes, no need disassemble wheel hubs. OTV are sweet. As they true rotors to the vehicle. It is the best way to go. But wheel bearing must be tight.

Brake rotors, machining / turning

I'm having issue with run-out! Typically I do not put a run out gauge on turned Rotors or new OEM. But decided to in this case, on just one to start with. Well ended up put run-out dial gauge on all. Procedure is to remove rotor and turn to new position on hub, if out of spec, or just wanting...

forum.ih8mud.com

Damaging:

R&R air filter. Dust entering air intake, is hard on engines.

Take care of ATF leaks. May just be hose and or clamp. Also, fitting (nipple) coming from engine radiator, A/T cooler hose fits on, has a nut. Often times, aftermarket radiators, the nut on fitting needs to be snugged.

Radiator round hatch missing from #1 skid. Allows addition road water spray, to hit alternator.

Steering boot leak. We can live with a little, but keep level up. Play in steering, likely bad rack mounting bushings. Bad bushing & leaking racke, R&R rack & pinion.

No big deal:

CDL stick, from lack of use. Often, then they free up by exercising them (using repeatedly), over time.
Fogs.
Oil hatch.

 

[Jwoodywild]

3mm is typically when it's recommended to replace brake pads.

On the topic of pulsing: my truck had Napa pads and rotors in the rear when I bought it. After 1 winter, these started pulsing terribly. Replaced with pads / rotors / guide pins & boots from Toyota and they have been smooth as silk for 3 years.

If you can't feel the pulse or if you aren't seeing fluid pouring out of the truck, there probably isn't much concern. Be aware, though: the factory metal skid plate and the plastic underbelly will catch a lot of fluids before showing any kind of drips on the ground. So a visual inspection each oil change is a good rule of thumb!

Thanks! Good to know on OEM parts. Do shops really allow you to bring your own parts and just charge labor?