which frame would you use? (1 Viewer)

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Oct 26, 2008
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Little Rock AR
I got a 1970 FJ40 Im puting together and picked up what was left of a 1977 cruiser for parts. The 70 frame was cleaned up by the PO and is rust free, but, it was hit in the read and is a little bent up on the last 12" of the rails. The 77 is strait and has a MAF shackle reversal, but, it has rust issues, the worst parts are the triangle supports at the front and rear of the frame and the crossmember where the bib mounts. So I can use the rusty 77 and grind off the rivets and install the parts off the 70 frame that are bad, or I can use the 70 frame and will have to have a body shop straiten the rear portion then I will have to install the 77 rear crossmember, where the tail lights mount, and the shackle reversal onto the 70 frame and be done. I am leaning twards straitening the 70. Another factor is the 77 has the crassmember for the 4 speed so thats an plus also. Either on is usable with a little work. What would you do?
 
The 70 frame will be easier. I think the body mounts are different between a 70 and 77. Plus the 70 is emissions exempt.
 
I would use the '77 if the rust was not too bad. I just had a body shop straighten a '72 frame. cost me $100. They are an old school place though. It took me a while to find some place that was willing to touch it.

Why do you want a shackle reversal? I would not move it over if I used the '70 frame but would probably just go ahead and use it since it is already on the '77 if it is set up right.
 
The 70 frame will be easier. I think the body mounts are different between a 70 and 77. Plus the 70 is emissions exempt.
A lot of states do not check the frame numbers anymore, just the vin plate.
 
The 70 frame will be easier. I think the body mounts are different between a 70 and 77. Plus the 70 is emissions exempt.



body mounts/locations/styles changed in 1979........1978 and earlier were the same.



:beer:
 
I dont think the rust is too bad, I brought it to get sand blasted today to see just how bad the rust is, as far as I could tell the really bad rust was on the triangle shaped supports where the back of the rear leafs attatch, and the triangle supports directly behind the front bumper. There is also some pretty bad rust on the bib mount cross member but I wont be able to see how bad until I get it back on Monday from the blaster. I found a place willing to straiten it today, $40 an hour and according to them they have the specs for the 1970 FJ in there tech data. I was thinking shackle reversal due to my experiance with Jeep CJ, the reversal was an incredible upgrade to eleviate bump steer. Not sure how bad it is on an FJ with out a shackle reversal being that I have yet to drive a 40. I have the weekend to decide so figured I would post on here and get some feedback.
 
A lot of states do not check the frame numbers anymore, just the vin plate.

Arizona checks the frame. Doesn't matter what the plate or the engine says.

That is why, when posed with the same situation; a 69 frame and a 72 frame, I opted to go with the 69.
 
dont know about texas but up here the older frames hold up well.the newer ones all rot out very few 77 or newer cruisers here.i have six from the 70s and they all have good frames .i think the older steel was much better just my o2
 
You can straighten the frame, but keep an eye on it and make sure the guys doing it know what they are doing. Metal has a memory, so it will want to move back to the bent position.
As long as the rust isnt too, bad, I wouldnt worry about the rust on the corner pieces. If its on th main part of the frame, be careful and see if you can look inside the frmae rails. Still probably stronger than a Jeep frame!!
Thums up on the shackle reversal, makes a huge difference in road driving. Anyone who doubts that needs to drive one with out it and compare to one that has it!
 

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