Which CV Axles? (1 Viewer)

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I'm having clicking noise that I'm almost certain that is the cv axle. The rig is 2005 lx only 135k miles with no tears or leakage to the boots. Is it likely that only the outboard joint needs replacement or should the entire axle be replaced? Other than noise, what are the best ways to ensure the cv axle is the culprit?
Have you done an AHC lift to clear your tires?
 
Check lug nuts torque first. Loose lug nuts can make a similar clicking noise as cv joint.


Typically the outer joint fails and outboard splines are worn while the inner joint and inboard splines are fine.

Clicking/popping noise is the best indicator. Otherwise you have to pull the boot off, clean all the grease out, and inspect the balls, cage, etc. If you’re gonna do that, then just replace...
Have you done an AHC lift to clear your tires?
Stock ahc.
 
Check lug nuts torque first. Loose lug nuts can make a similar clicking noise as cv joint.


Typically the outer joint fails and outboard splines are worn while the inner joint and inboard splines are fine.

Clicking/popping noise is the best indicator. Otherwise you have to pull the boot off, clean all the grease out, and inspect the balls, cage, etc. If you’re gonna do that, then just replace...
Check lug nuts torque first. Loose lug nuts can make a similar clicking noise as cv joint.


Typically the outer joint fails and outboard splines are worn while the inner joint and inboard splines are fine.

Clicking/popping noise is the best indicator. Otherwise you have to pull the boot off, clean all the grease out, and inspect the balls, cage, etc. If you’re gonna do that, then just replace...
I’ll have to check if Toyota sells the balls and cage. I may be stuck but a new axle and keeping a spare...
 
This is correct... Cheap aftermarket have the "tri-pod" style inner axle tulip. This is what was originally on my truck and causing noise and vibration starting about 55mph. Stock OE style have what is called the RZEPPA inner tulip that has a cage and 6 large ball bearings locked in.
I have a NAPA max drive CV axle on the driver side, it does not have a click sound, but there is always a vibration coming from the underfloor when accelerating, the vibe will keep for a couple of seconds then disappear when the speed up to a level. Will it been caused by that aftermarket CV axle?

And I also get clunk sometimes when starting ahead and stop
 
I have a NAPA max drive CV axle on the driver side, it does not have a click sound, but there is always a vibration coming from the underfloor when accelerating, the vibe will keep for a couple of seconds then disappear when the speed up to a level. Will it been caused by that aftermarket CV axle?

And I also get clunk sometimes when starting ahead and stop
Clunk is most likely the diff bushing being done, like most of our cruisers. Check out the large CLUNK/THUNK thread for more info on that and how to replace.

As for the vibration, that is exactly what I had. Usually started as I was accelerating up to about 60mph then went away around 70mph. This completely went away when I replaced my axles with TOYOTA OEM.
 
Over the weekend I pre-emptively replaced the AM cv's with the Cardone HD remans, as the rubber on the boots was beginning to crack. I only have a few dozen miles on them so far, but I am impressed with the quality so far. They are considerably more heavy duty than the ones I pulled out, and I had no issues fitting them into the diff or spindles. While I was in there, I also replaced the hub flanges, bearings, nuts washers, etc....The hub flange was a very very tight fit and took some "massaging" to get all the way on. Pro-tip 1- the Slee spindle grease tool with the zerk removed perfectly fits around the opening on the flange. It provides the right depth and surface for "massaging" the flange over the splines with a 4 lb. sledge...Pro-tip number 2- With the flange fit so firmly up against the gasket, there is no need for a puller tool to get the snap ring on. I will be taking a 1k mile road trip this next week, and will report back if I experience any issues.
 
Clunk is most likely the diff bushing being done, like most of our cruisers. Check out the large CLUNK/THUNK thread for more info on that and how to replace.

As for the vibration, that is exactly what I had. Usually started as I was accelerating up to about 60mph then went away around 70mph. This completely went away when I replaced my axles with TOYOTA OEM.
Thanks for the suggestion. I just ordered OEM, hopefully, it could worth the price~ what snap lock ring you use, there about 10 different size of those rings? why?
Screen Shot 2021-03-09 at 9.45.05 AM.png
 
Thanks for the suggestion. I just ordered OEM, hopefully, it could worth the price~ what snap lock ring you use, there about 10 different size of those rings? why?View attachment 2608589

Just get the pack from CruiserOutfitters. It has the most common ones needed.

C_Clips.jpg
 
One interesting thing, I called my local Toyota this morning, they said they have "Toyota remanufactured CV axle" on 176usd, I ask them "if that reman one made with all OEM parts?" they said the only thing they can guarantee is it is remanufactured by Toyota, not sure the parts. :confused:
 
One more interesting thing, Toyota charges me 40 dollars for core this morning, and they said they don't care what core I will return, OEM or aftermarket doesn't matter.
 
Toyota Reman'd have been discovered to be Cardone Axles. They are same as those used by NAPA and other Cardone Axles so your mileage may vary on them. Talking with a club member that is a regional Tech Manager for Toyota, they are aware that they are not to the same quality as new OEM and are working on it. But they are Cardone's so they have had better luck than others.
 
So why brand new Axle will need different size of those rings? The new shaft should have the same diameter right?
The snap rings are actually pretty interesting, IMO. Dumb design considering a small ring can easily be erroneously re-used and lead to catastrophic failure without warning, but interesting from an engineering standpoint. That snap ring gap variance represents the culmination of a few parts within the front hub assembly. It's essentially the variation in combined tolerances of the CV, hub flange, hub, hub gasket. All those parts vary in thickness to some degree and then the gasket varies in squish, as well. The CV can't be allowed to move axially in and out of the hub flange, because it will begin to saw away at the splines of both the CV and the hub flange. To allow for as little movement in and out of that hub flange on any variety of components, the CV is held in place by a variable thickness snap ring. The varying thickness accounts for the variation in those parts when assembled.

Neat idea, horrible execution from the perspective of "how likely is shadetree mechanic XYZ to assemble a ticking time bomb."

The snap rings also experience plastic deformation on a regular basis upon removal if the right tool is not used, but it's not obvious to the mechanic. If they reassemble with a yielded snap ring, it's like that ring is working its way off over time and catastrophic failure is then imminent.
 
Dumb design considering a small ring can easily be erroneously re-used and lead to catastrophic failure without warning, but interesting from an engineering standpoint.
But a proven, reliable, and tough design that’s worked all over the world in the harshest conditions on Earth for more than 50 years!
 

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