Which colored/striped wires go to my 1972 ignition switch?

[loosechange]

I have come to the conclusion that I am completely lost on trying to find a schematic or a wiring diagram that isn't blurry, one that I don't have to pay money for and I can easily identify for which wires go to the four prongs on my ignition switch.

The one I'm using switch is a AC Delco or some sort of AutoZone Pos that I've been using for about four years and I decided it's time to go with the original OE switch.

The back of the AutoZone switch is bat., ACC , if., and then a non marked one on the very top of the back of the switch so there are four prongs or basically bolts and nuts.

From what I have read on various Toyota sites and what I have in my schematics is pretty interesting to try to decipher.

my wiring that I have right now is a blue red stripe, black yellow stripe... (two of those combining into one black yellow strip), black white stripe, black red stripe,

my concern is that the wiring diagrams show B.R, B.Y, B.W...

Question.. does BR stand for a black red or blue red? I found one diagram hand written and it showed black yellow or black red turning into black white I don't really remember because it was too confusing and the guy himself had an issue as well with trying to figure it out.

So y'all have helped me tremendously in the past and I appreciate that and this a rustbucket is getting back up again soon

But until I find out the color and stripe color for the ignition switch I have it still down. I'm kind of screwed because I am still chasing down one slightly melted wire through the entire wiring harness of the Land Cruiser itself under the dash and I want to make sure everything is right. Thanks a lot again

 

[loosechange]

Sorry I meant I have one blue wire with a red stripe, not two blue with red stripe.

 

[loosechange]

Ok I guess maybe my query was too complex. I shall ask in a different way

I cannot not find a viable schematic that shows color/ stripe combo for my 1972 OE ignition. I read these diagrams with a b/r, b/w, b/y... however on my fuse block I have a wire going to nothing that is blue/red or as I would see it...b/r

I only am interested in what color combo goes to AM, IG, ST, and ACC.

Yes, I can hunt down what goes where with my multimeter, however it's been now 7 years on stands and I really am not interested in that type of time consuming effort yet. I understand how the switch operates on, and run/start

I'd rather have the help to let me know what goes to what for the ignition switch.

I will figure out later about everything else I need to really master. I'm involved in multiple projects at one time on this.

Recently purchased a yellow top and rep top optima, a powermaster 160A alternator, new power steering pump, new electric fan thermostat switch. 15ft 1/0 gauge red... same in black, 16-1/0 copper lugs and a shrink tube the type thats corrosion resistant and has intenal adhesive to seal it up good.

Next month is a hellroaring tech ISO/combined instead of an ACR. Lots of stuff to do still


Took all my nasty butt connected wires, measured twice and purchased tools of the wire 12g that I need internally. The dash was a spaghetti mess... all ends truncated with premium end and slider shrink wrapped what I could reach. I need a gearing piece for my transmission for my speedo to work

 

[bj40green]

Here you go.
Click on picture to enlarge.

S = Black White -► starter motor
IG = Black Yellow -► Ign. coil
AM = Black Red -► Ammeter and fuse block
Blue is coded as LB (Light Blue)

Good luck.
Rudi

 

[DSRTRDR]

and then there's always Coolerman's site:

Schematics

 

[thebigredrocker]

As Rudi stated L means Blue

So
L=all blue
LB=blue/black stripe
LR=blue/red stripe
LW=blue/white stripe
RL=red/blue stripe
WL=white/blue stripe
GL=green/blue stripe

Picture of my 71 female connector

Picture of a 71 Teq ignition switch

 

[thebigredrocker]

The BR (Black/Red stripe) should splice into a WL (white/blue stripe). I believe it should be a 10 gauge wire. That WL runs between your ammeter and alternator B. It should be hot at all times.

The WL (white/blue stripe) that provides juice to the BR (black/red stripe) recieves juice from the other ammeter wire which is a W (white). Make damn sure you have a sacraficial "fuseable link" on the W (white) wire where it attaches in the alternator lug. It stacks on the alt lug with the big battery + wire.

Pic of my genuine "Coolerman" fuseable link

 

[Coolerman]

Connect as follows:
Blue/Red goes to ACC
Black/White to ST
Black/Yellow to IG
Black/Red to Bat

If you use an OEM switch, and your OEM 4 pin connector is intact, just plug it in so the colors match what I just posted.

I have never found a 100% accurate 72-73 schematic so don't feel bad. The ones posted are really good for 72, but are not 100% accurate for the 73.

Your 72 will have the fusible link near the battery. That was one of the changes made in 72.

 

[loosechange]

Omg thank you so much for this valuable information!

I tried so hard so hard to find this information for weeks and I just couldn't. At least not without paying 17 or 18 bucks for a Chilton manual.

So as for the white Wire that splices to the other wire I don't have that. I have what I believe at my ammeter are the original wires. I have 168 amp alternator at the max output 128 at normal cruise speed and 105 that idle... I was told that if I keep my amp meter connected that I would fry my vehicle wiring. I've been told to link both of those wires together. When I've ended up doing is utilizing 150 amp circuit breaker in between those two wires.

I do not know if that is feasible I don't know if I bypassing anything that I absolutely positively need but my switch that I've been using for about for five years did not have any other wires going to it except for black yellow black white black red and blue red. As for the white wire in the white wire with the blue stripe I really can't tell you where I've seen those except on the animator I don't know where they splice into in the harness

I don't keep your eyes out the next week or so and if you see any video online about a nice Land Cruiser that's burned to the ground you know who that is

 

[Coolerman]

The fusible link on your 1972 is located under the hood, passenger side. Here is what it SHOULD consist of: A 10ga white wire coming out of the harness near the battery with a large single pin MALE connector. Plugged into that via a female connector will be a 4" long smaller piece of fusible link wire. On the other end of the fusible link wire will be another large MALE connector and plugged into that will be a 10 ga white wire that connects to the positive battery terminal.

This pic is of a 1978, but the 1972 is identical. You probably do not have this.

The 150 amp circuit breaker is bypassing the amp meter. I am assuming you have a winch or something connected straight to the battery requiring the large alternator?

 

[loosechange]

I do have a belle view/ warn winch (rated 8000lbs) I also run a 3300 cfm radiator fan which is 18amp, a two row derale oil cooler with 650 cfm fan at 10amp, an msd capacitive discharge to hei with is approx 3 amp per 1000 rpm. Electric Holley "blue" fuel pump with a Bypass reguLtor...I have a siphon pump for my gas cans to 22 gallon rear NWMP tank. I also have the ARB pump for the front locker... a viair 400 with tank a viair 300 also with tank . Multiple off road lights... of coarse the normal everyday things that run... blinkers, brakes, h4 headlights wipers I figured I use at any given time over 60+ amps and at night with lights, cb, gps, laptop charger/cell phone etc probably more... that and of coarse---I have the

The winch

 

[franklin40]

hey guys. old thread but looking for a little help. i have a 72 fj40 with a poorly swapped 350. ive remedied that part but im now tying to figure out the wiring that is all spliced to crap. im working backwards from the firewall. so far i have a black yellow which i think is IG. it'll go to the distributor . i have a heavy black white which i believe goes to starter. the black yellow was spliced to this block which then has a blue white coming out the other end. is this block stock or added in by PO?

it also has a cloth covered wire that i assume goes to the starter but dont really know as i think its not original


where should i be looking for the wire that goes to amp meter?

oh also fuesable link is long gone. what should that be connecting to so i can rebuild it? i have a feeling it was removed and may have been part of what fried the gauges hence aftermarket gauges.

edit. i think the fusible link has been removed. the wires are just connected together . is this where it is supposed to be?

it is a white wire black stripe coming right off the pos terminal

 

[ERNRAM]

Black with white goes to the starter, but not to the big power bolt but to the other inboard smaller terminal on the starter

Black with yellow to the coil

My question is how are you running your power from the alternator

 

[ERNRAM]

That white block is called a ballist resistor and used when you have an external coil. I have an hei on my 350, so it comes straight to the terminal in the distributor

 

[pb4ugo]

What alt are you running and how is it wired? What distributor are you running? On the FJ40 wiring white with a blk strip is a ground wire

 

[ERNRAM]

The alternator wiring is key...eventually that has to go to the battery or the big terminal on the starter. If the wiring at the amp meter is fried, then is a different effort

 

[franklin40]

i have the alternator wires marked from when i took the old engine out. i havent actually traced them yet. its a chevy alternator as far as i can tell. it came off the old engine. there is an aftermarket amp meter hooked up as with temp and oil pressure. im not 100% sure the gauges are fried to be honest. they may just not have been hooked up because the Toyota senders are apparently different resistances than chevy. im just starting my journey into them wiring rabbit hole on this vehicle.

ive taken that balast resistor out. ill run my black yellow to distributor (performance world hei) and the white black to the starter small studd.

ill also splice a new piece of fuseable link for to the wire coming off the pos battery terminal

 

[pb4ugo]

Where's the alt big/charge wire go to. As ERNRAM said, it all dependent on how the alt is wired, or should be wired. It sound like you might have fixed 1 problem by removing the ballast resistor and suppling and 12 volts to the HEI dist, if it was wired that way. The white wire with a blk stripe should be a ground. You can check out madelectrics' website for ideas on how to wire for a GM alt.

 

[franklin40]

thanks guys. ill sort out how the alt wiring is run next and post that up. it worked before i swapped engine so i figured id just hook it up but best to know what has actually been done so its right.

 

[franklin40]

trying to sort out my alternator wiring. I’ve been tracing wires. they have shown me some messy work. The blue white wire coming out of the firewall has been cut and spliced to a red wire that goes to an aftermarket amp meter. It then comes back out and re-attaches to a blue white wire that goes to the stud terminal on the alternator. In this mess however, there is a black red wire soldered in that goes back up to the firewall. There’s also a white with a green stripe that dead ends to nothing. looking at the wiring diagram for a 72FJ 40 I don’t see a white wire blue stripe and I don’t see a black wire red stripe so I’m not really sure what to make of these. There is one small section of black read on the diagram that is for instrument cluster illumination . Would it make sense that that was also plugged into the amp metre wiring?

whatever was done seem to work for the previous 350. I’m just trying to make sense of it.

there are obviously non OEM wires spliced in everywhere hence why im confused. im just going to run with it for now (while cleaning things up) until i have it driving and running well. after that ill decide what i want to do with the gauges. the aftermarket ones will do for now