Which brand of aftermarket UCA?

[dnp]

Ok, it's time for upper and lower ball joints.

My searches have uncovered the whole "OEM vs. aftermarket" UCA battle (and before the battle resumes here, OEM UCAs will NOT be reused), but one thing that wasn't clear is: which aftermarket UCAs are preferred, and why? Both of the brands I've found are virtually identical in design, and both utilize what appear to be virtually identical components. However, the ones from Just Differentials are about $125/pair more (shipped) than the ones from Total Chaos.

This truck is built with OME torsion bars and OME 866 rear coils. It will, most likely, never see really hard-core offroading but will be utilized for more expedition-style driving. Therefore, although the whole extra droop concept is understood and appreciated, larger tires (33" - 34") were the driving force behind the lift, not excessive articulation.

Anyone have any comments on which UCAs should be used? Is one better / worse than the other? The $125 saved could be used to go toward a better (longer) pair of front shocks...............

Thanks for the advice. I'd like to make a decision and place an order today, so I'm trying to arrive at a conclusion as soon as I can. Thanks again

 

[spressomon]

Well...playing the devil's advocate: You stated you don't want aftermarket UCA for the additional droop they can provide. So then...why do you want aftermarket UCAs?

There's a lot to be desired, from a maintenance perspective, with OEM UCA...especially if you don't need/want what the aftermarket UCAs offer.

 

[dnp]

Well...playing the devil's advocate: You stated you don't want aftermarket UCA for the additional droop they can provide. So then...why do you want aftermarket UCAs?

There's a lot to be desired, from a maintenance perspective, with OEM UCA...especially if you don't need/want what the aftermarket UCAs offer.

Maybe I should have said the "primary" objective isn't "just" the extended droop. However, after reading about the UCAs (and ignoring Shotts' comments), I like their serviceability, their construction, and the fact that they DO allow more droop. Also, when I determined they're so close in price, I couldn't figure a reason NOT to get UCAs.

 

[AimCOtaco]

It's my understanding that the JT's Parts (AKA Carl's ) UCA's allow more articulation (vs TC) due to elevated placement of the tube at the inboard joint. That being the case I will be running those some day. JT's also offers the matching length Kings so I see that set up as the market leader right now. Will be interesting to find out if the up coming SLEE shocks will be available in different lengths for the front to match the range of UCA configurations.

That said I have the TC UCA's on my Tacoma and the build quality is absolutely awesome; for that application they are great.

Either way the urethane inboards will tighten up your steering and makes for a more accurate road feel.

 

[LT]

It's my understanding that the JT's Parts (AKA Carl's ) UCA's allow more articulation (vs TC) due to elevated placement of the tube at the inboard joint. That being the case I will be running those some day. JT's also offers the matching length Kings so I see that set up as the market leader right now. Will be interesting to find out if the up coming SLEE shocks will be available in different lengths for the front to match the range of UCA configurations.

That said I have the TC UCA's on my Tacoma and the build quality is absolutely awesome; for that application they are great.

Either way the urethane inboards will tighten up your steering and makes for a more accurate road feel.

TC UCA's allow for more down travel as well. It isn't due to the placement of the tubing it is the uniball that allows for misalignment which is what gives you added down travel over a OEM ball joint.

 

[spressomon]

^ not entirely true. Compared to the OEM ball joint that is true. But there are ball joints out there that have even more angular movement than sphericals.

 

[LT]

I edited it for accuracy, I was referring to a factory ball joint

 

[dnp]

To revive a recent thread:

I was in a hurry to change my UCA's before a trip, but I ran into a time crunch and had to take my 80 instead. Fun trip, but I was really hoping to see how the 100 performed off road.

In any event, after more research, I'm now starting to wonder whether, in fact, I SHOULD consider factory-style UCA's instead of aftermarket. Originally, I was considering the aftermarkets, because the price between the Toyota factory parts and the aftermarket brands were virtually identical (TCs anyway). However, I have found out that Dana makes the aftermarket UCA's sold by NAPA, and I easily trust that brand enough to use those. Rather than $360 each for the Toyota OEM, the Danas are $170 each.......making enough of a price difference to consider their use.

All that being said, the threshold question at this point is: I plan to run 325/60-18s on this truck, so is it my understanding that wheel spacers are NOT generally needed for inside sidewall clearance when using the aftermarket UCAs? That's what I need to know. Thanks.

 

[2000UZJ]

I think the next interference is the upper part of the steering knuckle. Fuzz's old GY DT rubbed on the knuckle but not UCA. Look up his thread to see what I'm referring to. On my phone all day.

 

[AimCOtaco]

To revive a recent thread:

I was in a hurry to change my UCA's before a trip, but I ran into a time crunch and had to take my 80 instead. Fun trip, but I was really hoping to see how the 100 performed off road.

In any event, after more research, I'm now starting to wonder whether, in fact, I SHOULD consider factory-style UCA's instead of aftermarket. Originally, I was considering the aftermarkets, because the price between the Toyota factory parts and the aftermarket brands were virtually identical (TCs anyway). However, I have found out that Dana makes the aftermarket UCA's sold by NAPA, and I easily trust that brand enough to use those. Rather than $360 each for the Toyota OEM, the Danas are $170 each.......making enough of a price difference to consider their use.

All that being said, the threshold question at this point is: I plan to run 325/60-18s on this truck, so is it my understanding that wheel spacers are NOT generally needed for inside sidewall clearance when using the aftermarket UCAs? That's what I need to know. Thanks.

I'm not sure the DANA qualifies under this definition of 'aftermarket UCA' I'm assuming the DANA is identical to the toyota OEM just different country of origin and price. Not certain but be careful.
This thread is all about aftermarket 'unibal' type UCA's which do improve tire clearance.

 

[dnp]

I'm not sure the DANA qualifies under this definition of 'aftermarket UCA' I'm assuming the DANA is identical to the toyota OEM just different country of origin and price. Not certain but be careful.

Aftermarket = non-OEM. OEM-style, yes, but not factory produced.

This thread is all about aftermarket 'unibal' type UCA's which do improve tire clearance.

Yeah, I'm just trying to determine, if I were to use Unibal-style, could I avoid wheel spaces (which I really would rather not use)

 

[Mxndrnks]

Yeah, I'm just trying to determine, if I were to use Unibal-style, could I avoid wheel spaces (which I really would rather not use)

It will really depend on the tire you run, if you need to run chains and your alignment.

 

[dnp]

It will really depend on the tire you run, if you need to run chains and your alignment.

As I mentioned above, 325/60-18 Terra Grappler, never any chains, and I want to run "proper" alignment

 

[spressomon]

I don't think you'll be able to run 325 width tires without wheel spacer adapters regardless of OEM or aftermarket front UCAs (with OEM wheel backspacing/offset anyway ).

 

[dnp]

I don't think you'll be able to run 325 width tires without wheel spacer adapters regardless of OEM or aftermarket front UCAs (with OEM wheel backspacing/offset anyway ).

That's the info I needed. Thanks!

 

[Mxndrnks]

I don't think you'll be able to run 325 width tires without wheel spacer adapters regardless of OEM or aftermarket front UCAs (with OEM wheel backspacing/offset anyway ).

To add to this.... with that tire width and spacers... you would have rubbing issues at the top of your fender in full compression as well as the back of the wheel well. I am almost positive you would also need to run a body lift.

 

[petrotk40]

I think the cons outweigh the pro's on running 325s. Aired down, I can't imagine you're going to gain that much footprint over the other size options

 

[staggrlee]

I really don't understand setting the whole vehicle up to run really wide tires. They're not the best in all situations. In fact they're a detriment in most conditions in my experience. I run 255/85 KM2s which gives me ample clearance with an OME med. lift and chains if I need them. Without spacers.

Really wide tires gain you very little in all but sand flotation scenarios. Where skinny tires are a drawback is on side-hill muddy/rock climbing situations where you want a larger lateral patch. In most cases I find a longer longitudinal contact patch is far superior, in mud/snow/rock and anywhere that going up (or down) in a controlled fashion is a priority. And you don't need to worry about a lot of the clearance issues.

If you're trying to run 325s because you think they look cool or you believe they'll be best for traction in most conditions, I suggest you do a little more research.

I can chain up my 255s in the mud and pull you out though.

 

[spressomon]

^ agree. And then factor the steering scrub effect that results from running 1.25"+ wide wheel spacer adapters required with 325 width tires and you've got even more negative off-road/tight turn trail performance characteristics for a Land Cruiser.

 

[Letsgomoreplaces]

tires

If you have 18" wheels Nitto offers the 295/70/18 in a Trail or Terra grappler. I've run various sizes, I prefer this size over the 315 or 12.50 variety. As for the arms price, we also offer a discount on the arms when purchased with shocks. We've got hundreds in use worldwide too. We only use FK uniballs now as we've found them to last well, also the upper bushings are greasable. We also offer it in a full package with King shocks valved and sized specifically for our kits, or a more budget freindly Bilstein shock.
For more info you can see some of these links too:
Also see these links for photos and product info:

https://forum.ih8mud.com/jts-parts-accessories/512337-99-uzj100-photo-thread-35s-4-88-king-shocks-bumpers-s-c-more.html

http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.178392942215052.49773.175156425872037&type=3

King shock review from a customer of mine:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/jts-parts-accessories/503397-king-shocks-all-applications-including-landcruiser-80-100-etc.html