crushers
post ho
for a serious off road truck then a welded rear is the way to go....
selectable up front
selectable up front
Where's the diff lock switch/button on a BJ7X?
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Tapage
Club 4X4 Panamá
crushers said:
welded . ? woou radical Wayne ..
crushers
post ho
this truck is the first in many many years i have run without a welded rear diff. i drive both on and off the road and contrary to what some say i found the welded an advantage in the winter driving.
as with most things it is a learning curve to it and tire wear does dramaticly increase...
as with most things it is a learning curve to it and tire wear does dramaticly increase...
Tapage
Club 4X4 Panamá
IMOP .. when my HJ-60 was in 33" and I have a rear lock right and after this an EZ locker .. never feel fine on road .. I feel in the tight turns hard to turn .. and well my EZ locker dies after a year I thought ..
I decide for a Detroit locker .. but it wornout my rear tires so fast .. and I sell it and buy my both ARB's ..
I'm so happy with this option .. and is by far the better IMOP
I decide for a Detroit locker .. but it wornout my rear tires so fast .. and I sell it and buy my both ARB's ..
I'm so happy with this option .. and is by far the better IMOP
crushers
post ho
if money is not a concern then yes.
for me the cost of 2 lockers and the compressor turned me off.
a case of beer and a couple hours work and locked rear diff...
for me the cost of 2 lockers and the compressor turned me off.
a case of beer and a couple hours work and locked rear diff...
crushers said:
You've gotta be pulling my leg...maybe if all the roads were straight and flat?
I don't have any experience running a welded rear, and you do, so I'll defer to your opinion...but my initial thinking is that a rear diff that doesn't differentiate on a slippery road taking a curve or trying to turn a corner is not going to be good news. Am I wrong?
crushers
post ho
Stoney, my friend, you do drive in 4H on slippery or loose roads. right?
if i have open, lock rite, welded, shimmed LS in the rear diff i run in 4H (on curvy roads) on loose gravel , ice, snow, mud.
i have watched for years as fellow wheelers unlock at the end of the trail but i wait till i am back on terra firma. i usually drive fairly fast and agressive and to me it just doesn't make sense to unlock the hubs on the (in my mind) the most dangerous section of trail.
a couple decads ago i was told by an old timer NEVER unlock the front hubs till you are on high traction terrain.
i used to run with a heavy footed crowd and shortly after that advice, i booting back from a trail head heading back on gravel to the paved road in a gasser 40. i had a welded in the back and the front was locked but i was in 2H. i took a section of the road at too fast and hit a bit of a wash board. the rear started coming around on me so i reached down and slipped the lever back into 4H and blurped the throttle. the front pulled straight again and i was fine, a bit shaken but fine.
i don't care if you run locked or open, my suggestion is run wih the front hubs engaged till you are back on dry pavement or solid dirt. with the Land Cruiser you can shift at any speed from 2H to 4H as long the front hubs are locked. this is a safe guard for on the highway in slippery conditions and other than minimal wear on the front end (think 80 series) and about 1 or 2 mpg loss in milage you have nothing to loose.
you can also think of it this way, you don't wait till you are stuck off road to lock the front diff, do you? no most of us lock the front hubs at the trail head since we know we might need the extra control and traction as we negotiate the trail, it is the same reasoning when it comes to traction issues in everyday life.
cheers
if i have open, lock rite, welded, shimmed LS in the rear diff i run in 4H (on curvy roads) on loose gravel , ice, snow, mud.
i have watched for years as fellow wheelers unlock at the end of the trail but i wait till i am back on terra firma. i usually drive fairly fast and agressive and to me it just doesn't make sense to unlock the hubs on the (in my mind) the most dangerous section of trail.
a couple decads ago i was told by an old timer NEVER unlock the front hubs till you are on high traction terrain.
i used to run with a heavy footed crowd and shortly after that advice, i booting back from a trail head heading back on gravel to the paved road in a gasser 40. i had a welded in the back and the front was locked but i was in 2H. i took a section of the road at too fast and hit a bit of a wash board. the rear started coming around on me so i reached down and slipped the lever back into 4H and blurped the throttle. the front pulled straight again and i was fine, a bit shaken but fine.
i don't care if you run locked or open, my suggestion is run wih the front hubs engaged till you are back on dry pavement or solid dirt. with the Land Cruiser you can shift at any speed from 2H to 4H as long the front hubs are locked. this is a safe guard for on the highway in slippery conditions and other than minimal wear on the front end (think 80 series) and about 1 or 2 mpg loss in milage you have nothing to loose.
you can also think of it this way, you don't wait till you are stuck off road to lock the front diff, do you? no most of us lock the front hubs at the trail head since we know we might need the extra control and traction as we negotiate the trail, it is the same reasoning when it comes to traction issues in everyday life.
cheers
Tapage
Club 4X4 Panamá
Wayne .. you are right .. drive faster ( or mild ) on slippery, soft poor traction roads require 4H for safety reazons ..
I gonna put my case.
Here in Panamá ( right now in winter ) we have 8 month of rain .. sometimes soft sometimes pouring rain .. wet asphalt ( lucky we have good streets and highways ) means " good traction "
and I ask .. is enought traction to drive in 2H or are too tough to drive in 4H thinking in our t-case ( no diferential action )
I gonna put my case.
Here in Panamá ( right now in winter ) we have 8 month of rain .. sometimes soft sometimes pouring rain .. wet asphalt ( lucky we have good streets and highways ) means " good traction "
and I ask .. is enought traction to drive in 2H or are too tough to drive in 4H thinking in our t-case ( no diferential action )
Wayne:
I see...actually I am thinking of in-town driving in winter conditions. I do always have my front hubs locked in those conditions, but I don't necessarily have my truck in 4WD. Most of the time I run on 2H with the front hubs locked and engage 4H as necessary as you have described. What I was thinking was in this situation, being in 2H and having a welded diff in the rear, in town, in snow, might be really tricky.
I see...actually I am thinking of in-town driving in winter conditions. I do always have my front hubs locked in those conditions, but I don't necessarily have my truck in 4WD. Most of the time I run on 2H with the front hubs locked and engage 4H as necessary as you have described. What I was thinking was in this situation, being in 2H and having a welded diff in the rear, in town, in snow, might be really tricky.
crushers
post ho
actually i found the oposite to be true in my case. the welded at slower speeds in snowy conditions worked very well since you can stick one rear tire in the snow while the other is on the ice (say at a stop light) and then you have traction taking off again.
welded units are not for everyone but i liked them. now i have open diffs and the truck i use off road has an elec rear so i am fine.
if i went back to a "wheeling rig" with limited city driving then i would go back to the welded again..
welded units are not for everyone but i liked them. now i have open diffs and the truck i use off road has an elec rear so i am fine.
if i went back to a "wheeling rig" with limited city driving then i would go back to the welded again..
