Where do we go from here? To replace my LX or not? (2 Viewers)

[mdcoa]

How much of the mods on this could you swap onto a new (to you) low-rust rig? If you could overlap the two rigs for a month or so, you could un-mod the current rig and greatly cut your losses, no?

I got very lucky after a year of looking and got a super rust-free and relatively low mileage (130k) and very well maintained NorCal truck with slight body damage for 15k.
In 18 mos and 20 k miles I’ve spent very, very little on maintenance (Until my front diff blew, anyway....) and focused on mods, which I’ve also been pretty restrained about—new suspension, dual battery, hidden winch), and am probably still into it for below 20k. No, that’s probably a lie, since I shipped it from CA to NC...but not much more than 20, even with the new diff and locker...

If you could score something similar and swap over your mods, and then sell your current, slightly rusty but well maintained and (by then) mostly stock, rig you could maybe minimize losses and come out at the other end with a nice rust-free truck with 80% of your current mods on it. Heck if you got one the same color you could even swap genders and salvage the dorkel!

And some of the maintenance costs can be written off since that just has to be expected with anything but an”new car every 36 months” approach....

 

[ShenValley100LC]

If you're even asking it's probably best to part ways. Had a similar-ish situation when I was downsizing to one vehicle. Your future time and money is best spent getting exactly what you want now (if feasible).

Yeah I mean I think this all depends on budget. Do you have cash to a buy a rust free or built truck (8K maybe for rust free high mileage plus the cash youll need for mods or 15-20K for a built rust free decent mileage), if so sure go ahead and do that. But if you only a couple grand in cash and your truck is worth nothing you might be stuckish.

 

[FxFormat]

I'm done buying neglected and rusty rigs for cheap, the very latest purchase i grabbed my ankles, brace myself and let the seller have his way. Paid top dollar for a very clean non-rusty, well maintained rig and i have done nothing as far as repair goes, just maintenance. I have a bout 20K into it as well, but she looks and drives like new. I say keep this one to wheel, and buy another one you really want. I don't think you can get anywhere near as close as you have in it if you want to sell.

 

[ClassyJalopy]

Woof, 20K...that seemed unbelievable until I started tallying up mine...and most of mine was free labor and 50% discount on parts. Yeah as someone else said, the resale value is going to be rough for that you've done for it.

I plan to drive mine into the ground for a couple reasons. One, I just wanna see how far it can go. I'm at 515,000 and it still just feels great at a fundamental level, im left with the small annoying stuff like sunroof not retracting, rust were the steps met the body, and the rear quarter panel (which I think rear swingout bumper will fix). Two, I have perfectly working luxury 4WD that I probably couldn't sell for more than $2-3K. Eventually if I can stop getting furloughed I can get my wife a mall crawler LX470 (i mean still gonna have 200K+ miles for sure) and myself another spare vehicle.

Car, title, etc: $2,600
Bumper, winch, snorkel: $1,300
Suspension: $450
Timing belt/Rad: $850
CV, wheel bearings, etc: $750
Oil changes, ATF drain & fill: $450
random parts: $450
brake stuff: $200
probably some things missings so maybe $7-8K tops


There's a couple issues here. Even if you get another Lx/Lc, which economically would make the most sense (since you have the bumper/upgrades, etc, not to mention tools) but even if you go down south and get one youre still in Wisconsin and its probably gonna start rusting unless you are religiously washing the body and coating the frame. So Idk, another high mileage LX with the timing belt recently done probably makes the most sense, swap the mods and upgrades if you can. That's worth more than whatever youd get for that truck probably. You could probably pay for a rental space just selling just a couple parts off your old one. I mean hell, we keep these long enough maybe the prices will rebound like other old cruisers making it totally worth to address the rust and body damage.

Also has a general piece of advice stop hitting trees.

Yours is amazing! And you are one of the ppl who actually use the truck for more than visiting the mall! Mine has cost me more than many people here simply because I broke a lot of stuff while wheeling and because I had a couple of bad experiences with someone else working on my truck. If I buy another one, I can probably move over some of the aftermarket stuff rather easily but most of the maintenance type expenses (which it really the bulk of it) will never be recouped!
I hear ya about not hitting the trees but I assure you I have never hit anything on purpose, not even once!

If you're even asking it's probably best to part ways. Had a similar-ish situation when I was downsizing to one vehicle. Your future time and money is best spent getting exactly what you want now (if feasible).

I happen to be fortunate enough to be able afford a brand new LC rather comfortably but then it would be too pretty and nice to do some of the fun stuff we do. If it was this cut and dry, I wouldn't be having this dilemma right now! Still I appreciate your suggestion.

 

[ClassyJalopy]

I'm done buying neglected and rusty rigs for cheap, the very latest purchase i grabbed my ankles, brace myself and let the seller have his way. Paid top dollar for a very clean non-rusty, well maintained rig and i have done nothing as far as repair goes, just maintenance. I have a bout 20K into it as well, but she looks and drives like new. I say keep this one to wheel, and buy another one you really want. I don't think you can get anywhere near as close as you have in it if you want to sell.

I have followed your purchases with interest. Mine was actually very well maintained for the most part. The previous two owners did everything at the same Lexus dealer that sold the truck originally! So a lot of other common failures like fuel pump, alternator, radiator, ignition lock cylinder, throttle body etc etc. were replaced by Lexus at great cost to the then owners.
But rust is not something they cared for and that's why I was able to score it for such a low price!

 

[ClassyJalopy]

How much of the mods on this could you swap onto a new (to you) low-rust rig? If you could overlap the two rigs for a month or so, you could un-mod the current rig and greatly cut your losses, no?

I got very lucky after a year of looking and got a super rust-free and relatively low mileage (130k) and very well maintained NorCal truck with slight body damage for 15k.
In 18 mos and 20 k miles I’ve spent very, very little on maintenance (Until my front diff blew, anyway....) and focused on mods, which I’ve also been pretty restrained about—new suspension, dual battery, hidden winch), and am probably still into it for below 20k. No, that’s probably a lie, since I shipped it from CA to NC...but not much more than 20, even with the new diff and locker...

If you could score something similar and swap over your mods, and then sell your current, slightly rusty but well maintained and (by then) mostly stock, rig you could maybe minimize losses and come out at the other end with a nice rust-free truck with 80% of your current mods on it. Heck if you got one the same color you could even swap genders and salvage the dorkel!

And some of the maintenance costs can be written off since that just has to be expected with anything but an”new car every 36 months” approach....

That is the strongest case for a replacement truck! Get a nice rust free example and swap over as much as I can. Throw on the new front locker and call it good.
The only issue is that almost all the trucks I have looked at are behind on good maintenance. Almost all of them needed rear control arms, bushings, brake booster/accumulator assembly and suspension work. In my experience the most maintenance these trucks seems to get is TB and cooling system refresh. Perhaps fuel system refresh if the owner is stranded somewhere!

To make another truck ride as nice as mine is - it will easily $5k to $6K. The damn brake booster assembly alone is $2500 and it does fail sooner or later on 100s.

I'd keep it. It's already been a big project so why not...

Buy a PDR tool set and pull what dents you can, grind out the rust spots and have a local shop tack in some fill panels. Bondo what's left and spray it with a rad color bed liner or wrap it in a cool graphic.

May be the right answer is most obvious one here that I am just too stuck up to acknowledge: Add a locker and steering rack to this truck and patch up the body rust as best as I can and keep enjoying it. That way we can still keep exploring the kind of terrain that made my 8 yr exclaim: "Dad, we couldn't have done that in any other car!"

And buy a nicer 200 to scratch the itch to drive a nice Cruiser on highway only trips.

 

[suprarx7nut]

Keep it.

Unless...

1. You're concerned about not having side airbags.
2. You want the 5 speed
3. You want AHC

Short of the above, I'd keep that and rock it till it drops dead. If the above become important, then update to an 06-07. Another reason I'd keep the old one in your shoes is (assuming your profile location is accurate) you're in WI. A non-rusted rig will eventually just be rusted. Embrace the rust.

 

[MJK]

A) if you were to spend $20-$25k today, you could end up with a newer, nicer, rust free 100 for that money.
B) the 100 you own is the perfect off-road / winter / go anywhere rig that you can enjoy with zero guilt. Learn to weld on it. Let your kid help fix things.

If you truly want both a truck that stays nice and a guilt free truck, then you need two trucks.

However, I think you may like the idea of a nicer truck more than you would actually owning one. I also think you may be under-valuing the connection your family has to that specific truck. I would err on the side of keeping what you have.

 

[mdcoa]

I happen to be fortunate enough to be able afford a brand new LC rather comfortably

Well, why didn’t you say so? that makes this a lot easier! Keep this truck, buy a rust free 100 and a 2010-ish 200, and then accessorize the new additions—and you’ll still be out less than a new 200.

but seriously.....

The only issue is that almost all the trucks I have looked at are behind on good maintenance. Almost all of them needed rear control arms, bushings, brake booster/accumulator assembly and suspension work. In my experience the most maintenance these trucks seems to get is TB and cooling system refresh. Perhaps fuel system refresh if the owner is stranded somewhere!

Keep looking! Mine needed nothing except some paintless dent repair to get the damaged panel into some semblance of factory shape, new door lock motors, and a steering wheel tilt motor. Fluids had been changed with ridiculous regularity, CV boots and repack had just been done. TB et al were done on time. Wheel bearings repacked every 30k miles. It’s like the dealer hypnotized the PO so they just said, “yes, let’s do that” every time something was recommended.
With the exception of the diff, which I broke before learning that vigorous backward pulls are a bad idea, there have been no major repairs. Will I eventually need a rack? Yeah, probably in about 5-10 years, knock on wood.
All that to say a well maintained sub-150k truck is worlds away from a minimally maintained 250k truck in terms of what it’ll need almost immediately.
I’d say rock what you have, but set up some Auto trader alerts and keep your eyes open for a well maintained, rust-free, lower mileage 5 speed with some blemishes. If you have a dealer connection that’s willing to take a look at full dealer maintenance records, as I did as the result of a 200 series lemon adventure, it helps.
If one pops up, grab it and do the aforementioned accessory transfer (Including that gorgeous front diff!) and don’t look back.
Or just keep this and dump another couple thousand into it and drive it for at least several pretty trouble-free years, now that you’ve done a pretty crazy baseline!

 

[95Fantasma80]

Sell the 100 for top dollar and buy a new 200.

 

[Land Caesar]

Save up for a 200, Keeps the 100 as a wheel macheen, get a aluminum trailer with brakes.... and then, Ooops sorry I was dreaming of my plan and probably a few other guys here.
Listen, Keep your 100 that you put blood,sweat and piss and beer into- in joy not having a payment and talk the woman into a 200. Then enjoy both.
I’m still working on the second part of that plan myself.

Ps- This thread is moot without photos of the problematic rusted frame....

 

[Land Caesar]

I’m sure Your not the first mud member with this idea about there 100. We all want better, Yet need it?

 

[ClassyJalopy]

Let’s see this awful detrimental rusted frame!?!

Save up for a 200, Keeps the 100 as a wheel macheen, get a aluminum trailer with brakes.... and then, Ooops sorry I was dreaming of my plan and probably a few other guys here.
Listen, Keep your 100 that you put blood,sweat and piss and beer into- in joy not having a payment and talk the woman into a 200. Then enjoy both.
I’m still working on the second part of that plan myself.

Ps- This thread is moot without photos of the problematic rusted frame....

You are right I need to take some pics of the frame. But right now its covered in mud - I will clean it up and then take some.

 

[95Fantasma80]

actually that exterior is in some serious bad shape, a potential buyer may be hesitant how it's been taken care of... might be best to hold on to it until the prices go up like the 80 series to offset some of that cash you've put into it and in the meantime enjoy that swet problem, payment free 100!

 

[MJK]

I'm not sure why everybody here loves the 200 series so much. But hey, could be just me. <shrug>

IF you have the room and want to see if the grass is greener then pick up a nice example of whatever floats your boat. Even with some deferred maintenance, it isn't that hard to get into shape. I think I put about 2500 in parts to update everything but tires & AHC globes? Sell whichever you don't want to keep.

Edit for clarification:

100s and 200s just *feel* so totally different to me - more a generational revolution than an evolution. Smaller/older/bubble era/analog vs bigger/generationally newer/techier. To me that would be like cross shopping an E46M3 vs F8xM4, or perhaps a C6 vs C8 Corvette. Nothing wrong with either, but they seem different enough that I am surprised many people cross shop the two. Like I said, it could be just me.

 

[NearJetties]

Leave the locker on the shelf or sell it. Drive this truck as is for a few years just maintaining it. That will let you save and get some utility out of the money you’ve already spent.

It’s not the fun option but important to know the difference between a want and need. It’s the only way to make the numbers work in your favor in this situation.

 

[95Fantasma80]

I'm not sure why everybody here loves the 200 series so much. But hey, could be just me. <shrug>

IF you have the room and want to see if the grass is greener then pick up a nice example of whatever floats your boat. Even with some deferred maintenance, it isn't that hard to get into shape. I think I put about 2500 in parts to update everything but tires & AHC globes? Sell whichever you don't want to keep.

I'm not sure why folks can't love the 200 without someone coming in questioning it like its so out of turn.

 

[MountaineerLC]

Gotta be honest man, I don't see the point in selling your current rig at a substantial loss just to buy a new one, that will be another $20k investment and then beating the fenders off it wheeling it.

 

[suboptimusprime]

Adding to the chorus. I understand the concept of suck costs etc as well as grass being greener, particularly when you have the funds to be in another really nice truck/car if you wanted to. That said, if I were in your shoes (and I'm closer than I care to think if I'm honest) I'd say I was past the point of no return on the build. I'd rather just keep going, fix the stuff that needs fixing and know my truck inside and out than start all over. I also tend to get somewhat irrationally attached to a truck so can't just abandon ship part way through and I value the history and adventures we've shared. Keep going with your LX and think/plan on what you add to the fleet in addition someday.

 

[Haring Bagsik]

You got me at "fixing issues on this rusty truck"..... I say get another rig, transfer whatever you can and part out golden rusty..... Rust (at least for me), is the biggest issue you can have on your rig