Wheel / Tire suggestions - factory LC 200 series

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thanks for all of the advice folks! I ended up keeping the factory wheels but had them powder coated matte black ($600) and mounted a set of Nitto Ridge Grapplers in 285x65x18. Let me know how you think it looks!

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They look excellent Black, I'm not seeing much advantage of the rock warriors myself.

Question .. can you lift and fit the toy wheels and tires under the AirStream? I was looking at that BaseCamp 20. Thoughts on that?
 
@chslc200 looks great! Now please do something interesting with the center caps to match.

They look excellent Black, I'm not seeing much advantage of the rock warriors myself.

6-7# lighter per corner than stock, better offset, more sidewall...

In terms of performance there are clear advantages. Aesthetically they aren't for everyone.
 
They look excellent Black, I'm not seeing much advantage of the rock warriors myself.

Question .. can you lift and fit the toy wheels and tires under the AirStream? I was looking at that BaseCamp 20. Thoughts on that?

I believe the Airstream Basecamp uses a 5x4.5" aka 5x114.3mm (interpreted as 5 bolts, 114.3mm pitch circle diameter) bolt pattern. 200-series is 5x150mm bolt pattern. So one would need an adapter between the two patterns which can be found rather easily at the link below.

Googling tells me the stock Airstream wheels are 18x8 +42 offset. So with 1" wide adapters, that would barely put a 60mm offset 200-series wheel 1/4" ish further out.

Will then have to check if the Airstream fenders will handle whatever tire diameter you're thinking. The Basecamp-X is lifted from the factory and should be able to handle pretty big meats.

Amazon product ASIN B07B2L9HTW.
 
thanks for all of the advice folks! I ended up keeping the factory wheels but had them powder coated matte black ($600) and mounted a set of Nitto Ridge Grapplers in 285x65x18. Let me know how you think it looks!

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Looks great. If you’re in CHS check out low country Land cruisers and upstate land cruisers in the clubhouse section.
 
Just remembered one very important detail if you go with 17s. Your new truck has large front brakes and they won’t fit into most 17s. To further complicate it, your 2020 had the updated brakes from 2016 on so what fit on a 2008 might not work for yours. The model many of us run are the forged TRD “Rock Warrior” designed to fit tundras which have similar bigger brakes to yours.

If you go with other 17s make sure they will clear your 2016+ brakes. I seem to remember some of icon’s models clearing but I’m not sure on that.
Hey, I am sorry to bother you, but am hoping I could possibly get your opinion as you seem to have solid knowledge w/ tires and wheels. I just picked up a 2021 HE LC, and would like to get a more off road tire and wheel, but it seems hard to figure out what size to go with on each. it comes w. 285/60/R18's but I am up for changing both. I am towing a heavy boat near towing max capacity occasionally but mainly am seeking a semi-aggressive off-road look. any advice in how to get more info on what to consider would be greatly appreciated!
 
Hey, I am sorry to bother you, but am hoping I could possibly get your opinion as you seem to have solid knowledge w/ tires and wheels. I just picked up a 2021 HE LC, and would like to get a more off road tire and wheel, but it seems hard to figure out what size to go with on each. it comes w. 285/60/R18's but I am up for changing both. I am towing a heavy boat near towing max capacity occasionally but mainly am seeking a semi-aggressive off-road look. any advice in how to get more info on what to consider would be greatly appreciated!
No bother at all. To be honest other people here know more about what will fit as sizes go way up, but I’ve spent time trying to understand different tire construction methods and the advantages and drawbacks of each.

I often advocate at least considering a non LT-metric tire for people worried about keeping stock-ish ride quality and mileage. And those “lighter duty” tires will easily handle anything your vehicle will with regard to towing and load, or they wouldn’t come on it from the factory.

But they usually appear more mild even in AT flavor to keep the better mileage and ride quality. If you can accept the harsher ride of needing ~10 more psi minimum, the extra weight, and the mileage penalty, the LT tires usually offer more aggressive tread and looks. Also a marginally tougher sidewall if you’ll be in rocks a lot.

An easy solution is move up to LT285/65R18 tires on your HE wheels. Last I checked these are only available in the heaviest duty load range “E”, but you’ll get a bit over an inch of extra tire/wheel height and it does a lot better job of filling out the wheel arch. As it won’t rub, or if it does it will be very light. No KDSS arm issues. And you keep those awesome looking lightweight forged wheels. Some people don’t like how tucked they are in the arches.. and go with spacers to make them more flush. Personally I am not a fan of spacers as it doubles the odds of potential of problems in the wheel/hub interface, and usually involves hardware that isn’t as high quality as the original stuff. AND, I like some tuck, as it keeps the mud where it needs to be and off the side of the truck, which means off me when on camping trips.

Another way to reduce the tuck is to run a different wheel with less offset, something like a -25 compared to the -54 of your BBS wheels. If you do this make sure you look for quality wheels that meet the load requirements of your truck.

Others will say to run even taller tires but this usually introduces other issues like rubbing on the mud flaps or fender liner, or what is a bigger problem the KDSS arm.. and say things like “just don’t turn all the way to the right”. Safe to say I’m not a fan of mods that have such compromises.

Beyond that, there is a ton of reading to do on this topic, and a ton of opinions frankly.
 
No bother at all. To be honest other people here know more about what will fit as sizes go way up, but I’ve spent time trying to understand different tire construction methods and the advantages and drawbacks of each.

I often advocate at least considering a non LT-metric tire for people worried about keeping stock-ish ride quality and mileage. And those “lighter duty” tires will easily handle anything your vehicle will with regard to towing and load, or they wouldn’t come on it from the factory.

But they usually appear more mild even in AT flavor to keep the better mileage and ride quality. If you can accept the harsher ride of needing ~10 more psi minimum, the extra weight, and the mileage penalty, the LT tires usually offer more aggressive tread and looks. Also a marginally tougher sidewall if you’ll be in rocks a lot.

An easy solution is move up to LT285/65R18 tires on your HE wheels. Last I checked these are only available in the heaviest duty load range “E”, but you’ll get a bit over an inch of extra tire/wheel height and it does a lot better job of filling out the wheel arch. As it won’t rub, or if it does it will be very light. No KDSS arm issues. And you keep those awesome looking lightweight forged wheels. Some people don’t like how tucked they are in the arches.. and go with spacers to make them more flush. Personally I am not a fan of spacers as it doubles the odds of potential of problems in the wheel/hub interface, and usually involves hardware that isn’t as high quality as the original stuff. AND, I like some tuck, as it keeps the mud where it needs to be and off the side of the truck, which means off me when on camping trips.

Another way to reduce the tuck is to run a different wheel with less offset, something like a -25 compared to the -54 of your BBS wheels. If you do this make sure you look for quality wheels that meet the load requirements of your truck.

Others will say to run even taller tires but this usually introduces other issues like rubbing on the mud flaps or fender liner, or what is a bigger problem the KDSS arm.. and say things like “just don’t turn all the way to the right”. Safe to say I’m not a fan of mods that have such compromises.

Beyond that, there is a ton of reading to do on this topic, and a ton of opinions frankly.
Dam thnx for your time and such detail, wicked cool of you!
So it seems as you go up in the middle number, from 60 to 65 the tire gets taller. I’m definitely a fan of plenty of rounded sidewall to give it a more aggressive off road appearance and I am willing to sacrifice some mileage for that. I assume as you go up in that middle number you get more sidewall. If that’s the case going up to 65 does seem to make sense. I just don’t wanna tall narrow tire, But rather a medium height tire with plenty a rounded sidewall. I also would prefer to it to have less tuck and fill out the wheel arches fully but not have tire sticking out past the fender flare.
In order to get the tire filling out maximally flush, can you achieve this by buying a wheel with more offset or wider than 9, what do you have to use spacers to push it out maximally flush. This is the concept that I have no idea about!!-(
i’ve heard from people with a lot of experience using spacers is a bad idea as it can create weakness as you said and also possibly if they’re not hubcentric cause inbalance issues.
 
Dam thnx for your time and such detail, wicked cool of you!
So it seems as you go up in the middle number, from 60 to 65 the tire gets taller. I’m definitely a fan of plenty of rounded sidewall to give it a more aggressive off road appearance and I am willing to sacrifice some mileage for that. I assume as you go up in that middle number you get more sidewall. If that’s the case going up to 65 does seem to make sense. I just don’t wanna tall narrow tire, But rather a medium height tire with plenty a rounded sidewall. I also would prefer to it to have less tuck and fill out the wheel arches fully but not have tire sticking out past the fender flare.
In order to get the tire filling out maximally flush, can you achieve this by buying a wheel with more offset or wider than 9, what do you have to use spacers to push it out maximally flush. This is the concept that I have no idea about!!-(
i’ve heard from people with a lot of experience using spacers is a bad idea as it can create weakness as you said and also possibly if they’re not hubcentric cause inbalance issues.
First number is the width in millimeters, the second number is effectively the height of the sidewall, as a percentage of the width of the tread. So the above 285/65 would have a sidewall 65% as tall as the tread is wide. So yes, it’ll be taller.

Going down to a 17” wheel, even with the same overall tire diameter, increases sidewall. Let alone if you also increase tire diameter. These taller sidewalls will bulge out more, and could go a long way toward giving you the more rounded profile you are after. You could look for 17” wheels in a 25 offset, then put something like a 285/70r17 on there which would be taller than stock as well. This will fill out the fenders, be more flush, and should clear the KDSS with plenty of room. Possible you’ll have to use a heat gun to make room with the mud flap at the rear of the front wheel wells and maybe adjust the front edge but both of these mods are minor.

17s bring up the concern you first quoted of mine though.. your truck has large brakes and not all 17s will clear them. Evo corse Dakar zeros will, though I think the 30 offset has to be special ordered. Normally they are 40, which will move them out about a half inch from your wheels. Icon makes some 17s too but I’m not as familiar with them.
 

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