- Thread starter
- #281
So tonight, leaving the new year's party It was snowing pretty hard, I had to use my maxtrax to get going...
Builds Wheel In Luxury -a GX470 build
- Thread starter The Great Him
- Start date
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5th Gen upgrade... Not tundra. Or gx460 
NMBruce
SILVER Star
A few of the years of Tundra's used 6 lug pattern and the calipers and rotors are larger. Goes from a 318mm rotor to a 338 mm rotor I think.
But if the 5 gen or GX460 works great or what you did works great then I will go that route
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- Thread starter
- #285
All 6lug tundra stuff is smaller. I have the larger tundra brakes on my 3rd gen 4runner and they are the same size roughly as the stock GX stuff. But the bolt pattern for the mounting is different as well as rotor depths and offsets. It would never work. Also the diameter never increased, it was just rotor thickness that increased, and caliper size that increased along with pad size. Two different caliper sizes were offered.
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I always wonder this myself. So many people are all over the 80's yet built 100's are non existent in my area. I haven't owned either but the 100 seems like a better vehicle in every way.
NMBruce
SILVER Star
Thanks for the info
- Thread starter
- #288
Got out in the white stuff
Just read your build thread start to finish. Good stuff man! Do you happen to have any more information about your foglights on anytime mod? Thanks!
- Thread starter
- #290
What information are you looking for?
- Thread starter
- #291
And thanks for the kind words
Just curious if there was a how-to some where. I did my Tundra and would like to do it on the GX. I have seen write ups for same year Tacoma trucks, achieved by bending a prong on the fog light relay, but wasn't sure if it would work on our trucks.
- Thread starter
- #293
Well that was a heavy load...
- Thread starter
- #294
Scored this guy today for $450. Works great too!
@The Great Him - how's the ARB compressor holding up under the hood? Considering doing something similar, any accelerated degradation of the compressor itself due to all the heat from the motor?
Not apples-to-apples since I'm in Arizona but still curious if you've noticed any problems with your setup. thx!
Not apples-to-apples since I'm in Arizona but still curious if you've noticed any problems with your setup. thx!
- Thread starter
- #296
Only thing I'd recommend is that you get a length of steel braided air line to help with heat dissipation before you actually plug in your hose. I bought a 18" section from summit racing and it has been wonderful. Other than that no issues from motor heat
- Thread starter
- #297
So today while I was up at the in-laws I took advantage of the shop and lift and put the GX on it and swapped out my wheel bearings. This job is much easier than I expected, it took me just over an hour and a half, from pulling into the shop to backing back out. So about 40min a side, and that was with taking pictures and forgetting on dust shield lol. I sourced my wheel bearings from Jersey Hubs, he is a guy over on t4r.org selling completely assembled bearings and flanges. I paid $390 for two complete units, shipped to my door with new cotter pins and axle nuts as well as new dust seal. So what is the procedure for this? Well basically you will pull your front wheels, then pull the calipers, next remove the rotors. Now you are down to the flange. There are 4 bolts that hold the hub assembly into the spindle. They are 17mm and need to be loosened. Once they are all lose and back out a way gently tap on the flange with a hammer to break the hub assembly free from the spindle. Once it is free and you can pull it out finish undoing the 4 bolts and remove the old hub. Thoroughly clean out the inside of any rust or other contaminates. Then take your new assemblies and put some blue locktite onto the 4 bolts, make sure you don't forget to reinstall the dust shield (I did and I had to pulling everything all apart again) and then install the hubs. Evenly tightening them in a criscross pattern until it is all snug and tight. I didn't look up the tq specs but I was able to loosen them with an open ended 17mm wrench so that's how tight it got them. Each side is the same. I recommend having the vehicle completely in the air for this as you may have to rotate the axles to align the new hubs correctly. - I did Thai without removing the axles, there is no need to pull the axles to do this job -if you are doing dust seals then you will have to undo the spindle from the lower a arm/control arm and pull the axle. I will do seals next time I do axles.
- Thread starter
- #298
So the other day I installed new springs in the rear of the GX(it only took me 2months). As I was doing so I pulled my bump stops to get maximum axle travel to help get the new springs in, well one of the bolts was "rust welded" in and broke of -so did one of my sway bar end links. Anyhow I figured that was a good enough reason to get some timbren bump stops and new sway bar end links. First I had to get the remainder of the bolt out. For this I took my propane torch and heated end of the bolt(the threaded part stick up out of the welded but on the bracket) till it was glowing hot, then I sprayed it with PB blaster (pennatrating oil) to quickly cool it and help break the rust weld lose. It worked like a charm and was lose in a matter of two cycles of heat and cool. I also picked up a set of 2nd gen 4runner sway bar end as they are about an inch longer and will help drop my sway bar back into a more stock location not stressing it quite as much. That I will have to wait to put on till another time as I just sent the bar itself out to get powder coated today and I won't see it back till the end of next week. Next up, upper and lower links and extended break lines.
- Thread starter
- #299
Welp yesterday was the wife's birthday so we all went to the beach, had some fun ate some amazing seafood(I'm not a big seafood guy, so consider the source), and all around had a great time. For her birthday my wife made me promise I wouldn't pull anyone out, ok no problem. We took the dog as well it was a family putting after all and he enjoyed the trip immensely.
Today when cleaning out the truck of all the sand and dog hair I noticed there was water in the back of the truck, like down in the latch wells where the 3rd row seat would secure. Now I had noticed this before and was kinda surprised to see this again (it has been raining a lot here). So I feared that my sunroof drains were plugged. Checked them, nope clear. Next was the hole in the roof I made for my 4band antenna (4g, GPS, and UHF/VHF) it's back in the left corner of the roof back by the door. Nope it was completely dry under that(though I did take the opportunity to but some FIPG back there around the hole before putting it all back together). I ripped out all of the carpeting hung it up in the garage and vacuumed as much of the water out as I could with my shop vac. I started tearing things apart and found that the water appears to be coming in through the side pop windows. I'm gonna dry everything out before I put it all back together and see what happens while the back end is all bare. Maybe it's a good time to add some sound deadening... FML I don't wanna spend anymore money right now Dave says no! We shall see, if anyone has had experience with these leaky back windows let me know, I'm kinda just thinking replace all the weather stripping
Today when cleaning out the truck of all the sand and dog hair I noticed there was water in the back of the truck, like down in the latch wells where the 3rd row seat would secure. Now I had noticed this before and was kinda surprised to see this again (it has been raining a lot here). So I feared that my sunroof drains were plugged. Checked them, nope clear. Next was the hole in the roof I made for my 4band antenna (4g, GPS, and UHF/VHF) it's back in the left corner of the roof back by the door. Nope it was completely dry under that(though I did take the opportunity to but some FIPG back there around the hole before putting it all back together). I ripped out all of the carpeting hung it up in the garage and vacuumed as much of the water out as I could with my shop vac. I started tearing things apart and found that the water appears to be coming in through the side pop windows. I'm gonna dry everything out before I put it all back together and see what happens while the back end is all bare. Maybe it's a good time to add some sound deadening... FML I don't wanna spend anymore money right now Dave says no! We shall see, if anyone has had experience with these leaky back windows let me know, I'm kinda just thinking replace all the weather stripping
I suspect it is just the weather stripping. I saw a GX that had rust there from the same issue.
