Happy Saturday. I’m going through an 05 LX470 that I recently purchased and getting some things sorted out. I checked the front wheel bearings which are getting close to due for repack. There’s a tiny bit of 12-6 play. Until I have more time, i plan to just adjust preload. I’m familiar with the 80 series trucks as I have one and have rebuilt the front knuckles on it a few years ago. I struggled with bearings coming loose after about 1000 miles using fish scale FSM method so I researched on MUD and found Tools R Us preload method of setting adjusting nut to 30-35 ft lbs and locking nut 43 ft lbs- no more loose wheel bearings and drives nicely after about 10K miles. Does anyone know of a set and forget method like this that works on the 100 series? Thanks!
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- Thread starter
- #3
I’ve looked for 100 series threads on adjusting nut torque and this method, but have not found anything.
I follow the recommended procedure except after the final torque of 4 ftlbs I give the socket a slight twist with my non-dominant hand before locking it down with the locknut. You'll find that it doesn't take too much more torque when applying the extra bit by hand.
Been doing the non-dom hand twist on Porsche bearings for 25 years and rarely require adjustment until the next rotor change.
Been doing the non-dom hand twist on Porsche bearings for 25 years and rarely require adjustment until the next rotor change.
2001LC
SILVER Star
4ft-lbf is not the final torque, it's the starting point. Many including I, read FSM wrong. Preload (PL) is the goal, not torque on adjusting nut!
When reading FSM, in the light of; "preload (using fish scale) is the goal". Which I shoot for PL of12.5lb, and get between 45ft-lbf to 84ft-lbf torque on adjusting nut to achieve preload of ~12.5lb (spec 9.5lb to 15lb pull).
If at preload of 12.5lb, we only reach say 20ft-lbf torque on adjusting nut to achieve. Bearings or grease are in bad condition or has issue or grease/bearings to cold. The better the bearings, the cleaner, the better the grease (at room temp). The high torque we reach on adjusting nut, reaching spec preload range.
Note: preload is tested at ~ 68F. If grease cold (say 40F, 30F, 20F), preload reading (pounds of pull on fish scale) go up. Since grease thickens when cold.
When wheel bearings serviced at each 30K miles. Claw washer scoring, indicates wheel bearing were to loose. Loose wheel bearings vibrate. Claw washer scoring, is due to vibration. As the scoring (gouge on claw washer) increases, wheel bearing loosen more and faster, vibration then increases, scoring increases more, bearing loosen more.
Wheel bearing service done correctly, claw washer will not be scored at 30K miles. I supper clean and uses very good grease and make wheel bearing very tight. I've seen them still tight, at 70K miles later.
Note: Do not reuse lock washer, snap ring or grease cap. Use proper size (thickness) snap ring, to achieve hub flange gap of less than 0.20mm.
- Thread starter
- #6
Thank you. I’ll follow this advice. Makes sense that if lower adjusting nut torque is required to reach 12.5 lbs on fish scale, then grease is toast or was inadequate in quality / quantity to begin with. I’m curious to see what I find when I open it up and will report back.
Wheel bearing question
Quick question, did my brakes and wheel bearings over the weekend and torqued the hub nut to almost 60 lbs. I checked with the scale method and it was about 10lbs breakaway. Now I didn’t obsess about making sure the nut and washer were super clean of grease prior but now I’m questioning if it...
forum.ih8mud.com
Thanks for the clarification. Lesrn something new every day.
I've got the fish scale too but have always just went by "feel", guess just habit after 25 years.
The washer and bearings have always come out in great condition so I felt it was adaquetly tensioned. I'm going to recheck with the scale this week to see where I'm at in comparison.
Cheers!
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2001LC
SILVER Star
Gapping hub flange snap ring. Spec less than 0.20mm. It is non reusable.
Tight gap is important. It keeps, axle from moving in and out of hub flange, past design limitation. 1) To reduce saw action, on splines. 2) to keep FDS outer seal, sung (water tight) into rear steering knuckle seal.
New grease cap, keep water from entering Hub flange/axle spline area.
It's recommended, each 30K miles. Axle needle bearing and bushing be lube, also. When we do this lube. We need to settle the grease, between axle of FDS (AKA CV) and brass bushing in back of steering knuckle. Many ways to pull axle outward, to settle grease and set gap. This is one (in video), is with just stuff lying around the shop. One can also, install (old) snap ring, and drive around the block to settle grease. Then install new snap ring of proper thickness, once back in driveway. This can be done with tires/wheels on the ground or jack under LWC. Which pushes axle of FDS outward. Thread a bolt (IIRC 8x1.25mm) into axle end, and pull outward hard on the axle.
I use more 2.4mm snap rings, than all others thickness. Next most used, is the 2.6mm, than the 2.8mm. Once in a blue moon (very rare), after replacing bearing/races, brass bushing and FDS. I may use the factory std. size of 2.2mm. Never every, have I used and less than a 2.2mm.
If you use a 2.0 or 1.8mm thick snap ring. Axle not pulled out enough, and the gap will surly be greater than the spec of less than 0.20mm.
Anytime snap ring removed, replace it. They expand and no longer fit sung around axle.
Tight gap is important. It keeps, axle from moving in and out of hub flange, past design limitation. 1) To reduce saw action, on splines. 2) to keep FDS outer seal, sung (water tight) into rear steering knuckle seal.
New grease cap, keep water from entering Hub flange/axle spline area.
It's recommended, each 30K miles. Axle needle bearing and bushing be lube, also. When we do this lube. We need to settle the grease, between axle of FDS (AKA CV) and brass bushing in back of steering knuckle. Many ways to pull axle outward, to settle grease and set gap. This is one (in video), is with just stuff lying around the shop. One can also, install (old) snap ring, and drive around the block to settle grease. Then install new snap ring of proper thickness, once back in driveway. This can be done with tires/wheels on the ground or jack under LWC. Which pushes axle of FDS outward. Thread a bolt (IIRC 8x1.25mm) into axle end, and pull outward hard on the axle.
I use more 2.4mm snap rings, than all others thickness. Next most used, is the 2.6mm, than the 2.8mm. Once in a blue moon (very rare), after replacing bearing/races, brass bushing and FDS. I may use the factory std. size of 2.2mm. Never every, have I used and less than a 2.2mm.
If you use a 2.0 or 1.8mm thick snap ring. Axle not pulled out enough, and the gap will surly be greater than the spec of less than 0.20mm.
Anytime snap ring removed, replace it. They expand and no longer fit sung around axle.
Perhaps this helps as well
2001LC
SILVER Star
Tip: FSM method, to remove cone washers. Use a brass dowel, to pound on hub flange studs.
Every now and then, I find cones washers glued in (FIPG). Not cool.
Every now and then, I find cones washers glued in (FIPG). Not cool.
2001LC
SILVER Star
Today I use a brass head air chisel.
Rechecked bearing preload today using the scale. Required 85 ftlbs to get it within spec. I ended at 12.5 lbs.
- Thread starter
- #14
I’ll be interested to see what torque value mine require to hit 12.5 lbs on the fish scale and to see how things look when I open it up. A Toyota dealer last replaced front wheel bearings and sealed everything up less than 30K miles ago. Before I adjust preload, I’m going to shoot some grease in the spindles with the Slee tool to try to help buy some time until it can do everything late spring / early summer. I’ve driven on looser wheel bearings on my 80 so not too concerned….yet.
- Thread starter
- #15
I’ll report back with torque values when done. I hate driving down the road knowing there is 12-6 play.
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- #16
Reporting back…driver side almost done. I had to call a night since I’m almost 50 and my body started hurting. I took the front wheel off to find that a dealer had put the flange back on with LOTS of RTV sealant. Fun getting the cone washers off and everything cleaned up. I could see there was plenty of grease in the wheel bearings, but the axle stub looked dry. I could remove the adjusting nut by hand it was so loose. Again, dealer service < less than 30K miles ago. I used my newly acquired Slee spindle greaser (awesome) to pump a bunch of Mobil 1 synthetic grease into the spindle / brass bushing until it was coming out the back side of the hub. From what I could tell, it didn’t take much Mobil 1 red stuff to push out the old black stuff. Axle stubs looked surprisingly good- just a hint of corrosion in a few spots. It was a bear to pull the DS axle stub back out far enough to get circlip groove available. Following 2001LC’s YouTube video, it took about 65 ft lbs to hit ~14.5 ft lbs of breakaway pre-load. Everything is pretty much buttoned back up and I’ll hit PS side tomorrow. Not too bad, except for 25 degrees and a soaking wet garage floor.
2001LC
SILVER Star
At 25F ambient temp. I'm surprised it took more than 20ft-lbf to reach ~14.5lb BWPL. I've found grease needs to be room temp. ~68f or it thickens below 45F giving a false low BWPL. But at 65ft-lbf on adjusting nut, you're good.
- Thread starter
- #18
You’re using “you’re good” pretty loosely. Haven’t driven it yet. Still need to do pass side- starting now. A 2.2mm circlip fit perfectly on driver side axle shaft- no slip. Better than the 1mm clip I pulled off.
Eyedaho
SILVER Star
Yikes, that's the clip that was on there?!
- Thread starter
- #20
Yep. The particular dealer that was last in there was having amateur day.Yikes, that's the clip that was on there?!
