Whats your FJ40 wheelbase?

[jedrattle]

I am building mine (slowly ) with a belly height of 23-24 inches, on 42 Irocs, and a wb of somewhere around 110 to 112. I am on full width tons. I am thinking about going 112 on the wb because I am eyeing 47in LTB's ! I will be linked f&r as well!!

 

[fyresq]

~101 inches with 55 rears stock setup and flipped 40 springs front with a few extra inches during shackle hanger relocation on 40's I could almost drive up a 90* wall on the front not quite the rear but I just spent so much time replacng the rear corners that I don't want to comp cut it Anyway, can't tell you how it works cause the drivertrain isn't in yet. Still needs quite a bit of trimming.....

 

[boostedz31]

I think i mesured 102" after I stretched the rear. this is with 4" springs under the axles. Both front and rear springs are also flipped.. 36" iroks.

very anxious to go 38" spring over with a little more wheel base and a little less bumper sticking out...

 

[boostedz31]

noone else has pics of there extended wheelbase? This is a thread I'm interested in

 

[Mark W]

Currently at 105 inches of wheelbase with FJ55 rear springs up front and FJ45 rear springs in the rear.

I don't have any straight on side shots at this length. Sitting high in this shot with load coils under it, but little weight as all the fuel and supplies were burned up and we were on the way back to the road

 

[CruisinGA]

Kind of suprised to see the PTO winch, Mark. Certainly didn't think it would hold up under much use with rigs of the size and weight ya'll build. Anything special about it?

 

[Mark W]

Sounds like you have been disappointed with your PTOs? I love the stoutness and dependability of the OEM PTO. I have had several of them on rigs and installed a couple on rigs belonging to friends of mine. In my experience they are much studier than any similar classed electric . Not to mention the oversized drum. And not having to worry about overheating on a long hard pull.

Only things I have done to the one on this rig is put a bigger shear pin in it, clearance the framing so I can load the drum completely full and fabbed up a much stouter PTO driveshaft. I twisted a OEM one like a candy cane several years back under a heavy pull.

They are a lot more work to use. For quick pulls we often let on of the electrics do the job. But for longer or heavier pulls I usually choose a PTO.

I have seen some PTO winches that received zero maintenance for years.... winding up with gear oil lost and water replacing it... rusted bearings and busted winch... but that was the fault of the owner(s) and literally decades of being ignored and used hard.

We do most of our serious exploring and trail blazing in '40s.... we do not bring the wagons in until we have established that the trail is suitable for them. A '40 loaded up full and heavy is still a lot lighter than a wagon loaded full and heavy. But to date I have never encountered a pull that made me wish for more winch... either with our exploring '40s or the loaded up wagons on the other runs. I will put the OEM PTO up against 8 and 10K electrics all day long.

I have a picture somewhere of a Canadian mine surplus Unimog tipping at almost 45 degrees in a deep bog as I drag him out... had to use two rigs to anchor him and run a rigged up fuel line since he was sucking air from his fuel tank.... his tires were diving under the bank instead of climbing until we got them turning some under engine power.


I have a much heavier duty PTO winch for my "Eternal Hanger Queen" It is an older Braden that is rated at 10K pounds... but it's proofed to 2.5 times that. It is a bit larger... too large on the front of most '40s... but just right for the moose buggy '40 it it mated with. Holds a stupid amount of cable too



I have had to back off while pulling stumps when I heard cable strands start popping... done this with 5/16 on an OEM winch and 3/8 in my Braden


Mark...

 

[CruisinGA]

Let me preface this by saying i have never owned a PTO winch. Everything I "know" comes from others' relayed experience.
1)I often hear many claim that PTO's aren't great for "hardcore" use, as the shear pins have a propensity to, well, shear and when that is upgraded then other less easily replaced parts become fuses.
2)The other 'reason' is that they cannot be used with the engine not running. This is not that big a deal to me because, in my experience electric winches are virtually useless without an alternator turning.

I haven't seen that many guys run PTO's on serious trucks, and I assumed the first reason above was most of it. Obviously from your experience this is not completely true.
I guess I'm glad, because I've always had a thing for PTO winches, but assumed they wouldn't work for my use. Making a sturdier driveshaft and installing a larger shear pin is not a big deal.

 

[Mark W]

I hear a lot of stuff repeated back and forth on the web about how a PTO is somehow inferior. Don't hear to many comments like that on the trail

Take that for what is is or isn't worth



PTOs are no commonly found in the recreational enthusiast market... lots are in use in commercial and industrial applications.

PTOs *DO* take a bit more to operate. IMHO the only safe way is with someone at the wheel so to speak to cut the ignition instantly if need be.
Plus selecting different gears and varying the engine speed really increases the flexibilty of a PTO... so you really want someone in the drivers seat.
And like with any other winch it is best to have someone in position to keep an eye on the cable spooling on for anything but a short pull. Soooo... to really use the PTO to it's max effectiveness... Two people works much better than one.

An electric is much more conveineint.... and for 95% of the uses that a winch will be put to, will work as well as a PTO.... occasionally better... Only when it comes time to really grunt and do it repeatedly does the PTO shine... and in the ability to be very precise with winch speed. The ability to pull very slowly can be as important as pulling fast sometimes. BTW, a PTO winch can be FAST. I do not have the specs on my OEM winch.... but if it is on the top layer of cable, my Braden will pull a 2000 pound load as fast as a Warn 8274 will pull the line in free...without exceeding the rated input speed.

I keep meaning to make a remote start, with a hi idle solenoid and a dead man switch so that I can operate the PTO from out of the cab. then I can run it just like an electric without a helper to keep things neat and safe.

If I really had to run a PTO with the engine off... I would pull the spark plugs to reduce strain and battery drag... and simple turn the entire engine with the starter.

I have a warn m8000 that is waiting to go under the rear of the pictured rig... that way I have quick self recovery backwards if I drop my nose into something... and my choice of electric or PTO depending on the situation.


Sorry for the Hijack everyone...

back on subject a little... most of the other '40s that are running with em... all of them I think... are running between 98 and 101 inches wheelbase.... reversed springs and sometimes shifted centering holes in the perches... about 9-10 of them at last count.


Mark...

 

[FLYINGLOW]

Currently at 105 inches of wheelbase with FJ55 rear springs up front and FJ45 rear springs in the rear.

I don't have any straight on side shots at this length. Sitting high in this shot with load coils under it, but little weight as all the fuel and supplies were burned up and we were on the way back to the road

Mark did you move the rear spring hanger? Not many guys running 45 springs rear, I have been running them for about 5 years and love the ride and flex but the depature angle sucks. SHould be better when I go SOA. With stockish front springs I am sitting at 97"

 

[Mark W]

I did not move the spring hanger. Right now I have a funky articulated shackle to let the longer spring fit n the factory mounts. It was a quick proto-type thing and I decided I don't like it that well.
I am probably going to simply use a long shackle at a very flat angle instead. I like this approach for the long travel and soft ride that it gives.

You can see in the picture that my front is a bit like that.

The long shackles used this way make for a sloppy suspension though. Since the photo was taken I have built "shacklegates" for ther front end. they keep the shackles/springs from shifting side to side at normal road ride height, but let everything twist and shift when the suspension falls away under droop. It is not as important in the rear, but up front it is a great help in keeping a soft and loose, high travel suspension on its best behavior.


Mark...

 

[General Sherman]

stretched +/-2 in in front

102 on 37's

 

[Waggoner5]

112.2 on 40s

 

[FLYINGLOW]

I did not move the spring hanger. Right now I have a funky articulated shackle to let the longer spring fit n the factory mounts. It was a quick proto-type thing and I decided I don't like it that well.
I am probably going to simply use a long shackle at a very flat angle instead. I like this approach for the long travel and soft ride that it gives.

You can see in the picture that my front is a bit like that.

The long shackles used this way make for a sloppy suspension though. Since the photo was taken I have built "shacklegates" for ther front end. they keep the shackles/springs from shifting side to side at normal road ride height, but let everything twist and shift when the suspension falls away under droop. It is not as important in the rear, but up front it is a great help in keeping a soft and loose, high travel suspension on its best behavior.


Mark...

Thanks Mark.

 

[canadian bum]

Going to be about 100-102 when i figure out where i want the axles to sit. The Front is good the rear I will see. got 35's on there for a test fit but want to go 36 or 37 irocks. Oh btw the 80 series width is going to be nice. ;p

 

[Josie'sLandCruiser]

Hi All:

Here is my rig - '74 FJ40 SUA at 100 inches wheel center to wheel center. I'm using "flipped" OME 60/62 Series rear lift (3 inch) springs in the back, and "hybrid" OME 40 Series lift springs (2 inch) in the front.

So, the rear axle is pushed-back about 4 inches and the front axle is pushed forward about 2 inches.

Regards,

Alan

 

[2badfjs]

104" with modded 60 rear springs front and back

 

[0zzy]

what type of steering do you have? does a high steer on a dana 44 and spring over crowd the steering box? this is a wheel base question. if you are almost 90*

 

[D'Animal]

122" with 39.5 Irocs

Flipped FJ60 springs in the front, 63" chevys in the rear.

23" frame height.

 

[cruiserland]

55 frame, WB stretched to 111"-112" on 2 1/2 inch lift springs 70 series front, 55 series rear, 39" TSL