What’s the best bolt finish? (1 Viewer)

[brian]

yellow cadmium is what was originally on many of the fasteners and a lot of small brackets and other trinkets on these trucks and was a quite durable finish.

 

[B y r o n]

I think a lot has to do with the look or function you're trying to achieve. Stainless is probably better to survive the elements. Then it is a matter of if you need grade 8 SAE or the metric grade 10 for critical loads. Lesser bolts for lesser loads and the look you're trying to achieve.

 

[SNLC]

yellow cadmium is what was originally on many of the fasteners and a lot of small brackets and other trinkets on these trucks and was a quite durable finish.

I do not agree. Like I say, call a plater to discuss.

You can see here the more dull or flat colored yellow hardware. That’s cadmium, it scratches easily.

Close up.

This is Yellow Zinc, zinc is much more durable.

On this restoration we plated every single bit of original hardware. Hundreds of items, if not a thousand. A plating shop will tell ya exactly what I say here, I spent a lot of time on the phone with them. I thought Cad was the best too, u til this project.

Cheers

 

[GA Architect]

@SNLC glad to hear that analogy. I just sent off about 15 pounds of OEM nuts and bolts to get plated in yellow zinc by Quality Plating in Nashville. Thanks to Mr. @Rainman for the info!

 

[brian]

electroplating cadmium was the way to go, when plated with that method the coating was superior to nearly any other coating...most durability tests showed results of the salt bath test in the 1000hr range before any rust developed. however the cyanide bath towards the end of the process created a few health and environmental issues. so it's pretty hard to find a plater that still uses the cyanide bath, most have switched to one of the other two baths that are now commonly used, and the results are not the same as they once were.
yellow zinc is good for at best 300-400hrs in a salt spray test booth.
if i had to guess, id say your cadmium was applied using the vacuum deposition process, which gives a very thin coating, useful for little more than ornamental purpose.
additionally the luster on yellow cad was quite shiny, that didnt fade or powder like yellow zinc will when exposed to weather.

 

[SNLC]

electroplating cadmium was the way to go, when plated with that method the coating was superior to nearly any other coating...most durability tests showed results of the salt bath test in the 1000hr range before any rust developed. however the cyanide bath towards the end of the process created a few health and environmental issues. so it's pretty hard to find a plater that still uses the cyanide bath, most have switched to one of the other two baths that are now commonly used, and the results are not the same as they once were.
yellow zinc is good for at best 300-400hrs in a salt spray test booth.
if i had to guess, id say your cadmium was applied using the vacuum deposition process, which gives a very thin coating, useful for little more than ornamental purpose.
additionally the luster on yellow cad was quite shiny, that didnt fade or powder like yellow zinc will when exposed to weather.

Can’t say I can argue with all that. I did not research it more after receiving the cad parts.

Zinc is plenty good these days. In my opinion, not many people driving their Cruisers through salt water or on salty roads these days. On the resto above we painted over many zinc bolts since that was how the factory did it on that truck. By the 80-series Toyota was using a lot of green zinc. I have had that and black done by the place I linked above. Pretty cool for certain things in a build or a certain kind of build.

Cheers

 

[ToyotaMatt]

Just Saying ..................

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[1969FJ]

Onur, what is that table you show? Is that a Toyota document? If so I would love to get a copy of it if possible.

Unless we are talking about different bolts, my 1971 is full of captured washers on bolts?

Agreed, my 1969 has them everywhere.

 

[SNLC]

Just Saying ..................

View attachment 2367982
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Yo man, I need a vin plate reproduced almost exactly like that, just different numbers.

Cheers

 

[ToyotaMatt]

Yo man, I need a vin plate reproduced almost exactly like that, just different numbers.

Cheers

no , no .


the plate is Aircraft Grade Aluminum

i was referring to the Plated Bolts ................

 

[TexasLandCruiser]

Cad to my eye is closet to factory. Yellow is a touch flashy but agree with the powdery finish, I bet they outlast me. I bought some bolts from Vintage TEQ and the convenience of having them captured is nice. But if you're looking for closer to factory look Cad. The only one here captured is Vintage.

 

[Green Bean]

Another vote for Overland Metric. As other have stated, when high torque/strength isn't an issue, I prefer the durability and non-corrosiveness of stainless. A PO had used non-JIS in many places. It is funny how now the eye can spot a 13mm M8 screw or bolt from a mile away. It just doesn't look right.

 

[TexasLandCruiser]

Another vote for Overland Metric. As other have stated, when high torque/strength isn't an issue, I prefer the durability and non-corrosiveness of stainless. A PO had used non-JIS in many places. It is funny how now the eye can spot a 13mm M8 screw or bolt from a mile away. It just doesn't look right.

Haha I see pitch, bolt sizes based on head size, yes it’s crazy how that happens, is this toyoda enlightenment? Yuuup on the Overland Metric, real class act