What’s the best bolt finish?

What’s the best bolt finish?

  • Stainless

    Votes: 6 25.0%
  • Yellow Zinc

    Votes: 11 45.8%
  • White/clear Zinc

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • Yellow Cad

    Votes: 7 29.2%

  • Total voters
    24

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I prefer stainless when strength isn't an issue. But they are weaker.

Just received my first care package from McMaster-Carr. Shopping for bolts on their site was worse than the candy store when I was 5. Trying to decide if I should stick with JIS standard for bolts holding the body together, or get stainless button head allen screws...
 
I used JIS bolts from daveworks. His website has just about anything you want .its all jis with correct style heads in stainless and in yellow zinc. Really nice stuff
I used stainless on the outside stuff and yellow zinc for everything else. I also had a lot of my original fasteners replated in yellow zinc.
 
I used JIS bolts from daveworks. His website has just about anything you want .its all jis with correct style heads in stainless and in yellow zinc. Really nice stuff
I used stainless on the outside stuff and yellow zinc for everything else. I also had a lot of my original fasteners replated in yellow zinc.

I thought that Dave has yellow cad as well.
 
Every time I travel to Japan I visit the hardware store and throw a bunch of these in my suitcase. Although I kind of prefer the yellow cad for aesthetic reasons the Japanese silver zinc finish is a work of art. Photos don’t do justice. A bag of 10 of these is about 1 US dollar.

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My dumb questions of the day: do the users of bolts with captured spring and plate washers use them for locations other than those with weld nuts? If so, how and why?
 
I don't know the specifics of why a particular type of bolt was used, but in checking electronics parts catalogs it's easy to see (in most cases for the earlier Land Cruisers) what type of bolt was used for different applications. For instance, bolts with part numbers starting with 91611 have a captured split washer and no flat washer. 91111 have no captured washer. 91651 have a captured split washer and flat washer. 91661 have a captured split washer and a larger diameter flat washer.
 
Per my earliest parts manual (‘65) and earliest rig that I’ve mostly disassembled (‘63) I’ve never found an original bolt with captured washers. That’s why I asked. I realize modern replacements have them but was just wondering about actual usage. I’ve encountered a number of vendor‘s bolt kits that have the captured stuff, which is mostly useless for my old rigs (assuming later rigs have a preponderance of welded nut locations that the old ones don’t have). Unless it’s common practice now to have split/lock washers under both the bolt head and the nut. :meh:
 
Where are you guys getting the philips bolts in yellow zinc? Was thinking going silver zinc kit from overland and stainless for whatever else i can't get like windshield brackets etc.
Guessing the silver and stainless would match close enough?
 
Onur, what is that table you show? Is that a Toyota document? If so I would love to get a copy of it if possible.

Unless we are talking about different bolts, my 1971 is full of captured washers on bolts?
 
Onur, what is that table you show? Is that a Toyota document? If so I would love to get a copy of it if possible.

Unless we are talking about different bolts, my 1971 is full of captured washers on bolts?

The date above is for standardization of all assembly line production for in-house manufacture at Toyota Motor Corporation only (so, Honsha, Kamigo, Takaoka, Motomachi, Miyoshi, etc) . This would also be for after sales service part replacement as well. Various vehicle lines could have earlier or later introduction of captured washered hardware.

Since these trucks were generally outsourced for assembly most of the time (Gifu, Arakawa), the introduction of usage of captured nuts/bolts would vary from one company to another.

Toyota engineering documentation provided to the outsource assembler could show a nut/bolt/washer separately, but the assembler could institute their own changes as a kaizen process in assembly by introducing a bolt w/captured washer thereby decreasing the number of actions/steps necessary for a specific process as a function of reducing takt time.

Toyota allowed their trusted sub-contractors the ability to do these types of things with Toyota's engineering blessings. This is, in fact, one of the hallmarks of the Toyota keiretsu system.
 
:grinpimp: Now THAT is some good information!

However you did not answer the question of what exactly is that section of document you show? I'm always interested in learning WHEN certain things happened on the FJ40 line. Like the formed headliner in 1970. That is the first time I have ever seen that particular tidbit of information...
 
It's the captured split/lock washer that's the issue with me, I almost always us a plate washer under the bolt head anyhow, so that's good to have a captured one. But I only put a split/lock washer under the bolt head if the bolt is going into a weldnut, otherwise the split/lock washer goes under the nut. There are a number of bolt kits out there that have the captured split/lock washer on many of the bolts so those become worthless to me.

I've mostly used Overland metric's yellow zinc when replacing original non-functional bolts, out of there full kit with case that doesn't have any captured split/lock washers :clap:.
 
yellow cad, but good luck finding it.


I have had a lot of stuff plated by,


Cadmium is not a durable coating. It has a flat or even powdery finish. It has the best corrosion resistance but it scratches very easily. I am not aware of it being used on any cars parts. I have had things Cad plated and was disappointed in how easily it scratches.

Zinc can be done in many colors. Green, black, yellow, silver, red, ect.

Nickle plating is really nice.

Give them a call at the link I posted to discuss more with them.

Cheers
 

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