What year(s) alternator had this plug? (1 Viewer)

[Degnol]

I ordered an alternator for a '77 FJ40 and the one they sent is clocked like a 2F alternator(ears at 12 and 6), but the plug on my current alt had a green plastic plug on the alt and the harness. This alternator is off a '77 and came with my motor, so I spliced the pigtail from a later model harness. I just need to know what year to order.
THX

 

[FJ40zen]

FWIW, My '78 has that plug.

 

[Degnol]

FWIW, My '78 has that plug.

Cool, then I'll order one for a '78 The reason I'm replacing is to attempt to get rid of the needle bounce on the ammeter. The regulator is solid state, but i've read that poor brush contact can make it bounce.

 

[Dusty 66]

Both of my 78 2f Motors have the green plug thing too , I spliced in a pig tail on my 66 for convince

BTW my ammeter bounces a bit too...

 

[Degnol]

Both of my 78 2f Motors have the green plug thing too , I spliced in a pig tail on my 66 for convince

BTW my ammeter bounces a bit too...

Glad you chimed in Dusty, because I knew you had an older cruiser, too. My ammeter will settle in just fine until I put any load on it, even turn indicators It will bounce so much as to be fairly useless. I guess it could be the gauge, but a reman alternator is cheaper than buying a new gauge.....go figure.
I'll report back with results.

 

[DSRTRDR]

The reason I'm replacing is to attempt to get rid of the needle bounce on the ammeter.

why go all OCD on it if you are not wheeling it anyway



BTW, my ammeter stabilizes if I kick the gas pedal for a second

 

[Degnol]

why go all OCD on it if you are not wheeling it anyway



BTW, my ammeter stabilizes if I kick the gas pedal for a second

Up yours, Kraut! I wheel my s*** just fine. Axe Poser Now get back to your biological warfare. Map your genes or iron my jeans

 

[Dusty 66]

My original ammeter bounced like a Geiger counter like in a 50s SiFi movie and Temp gage never worked always in the past the H and in the Black.
I replaced my gage cluster with a Real Clean one MARK A found me minus the Speed-O now everything works real well, Ammeter Bounces little bit at first start up then settles down quickly much better than what I had also Mark had a couple of options for ammeter gage replacement too if have the need.


A little gage action

 

[lostmarbles]

My original ammeter bounced like a Geiger counter like in a 50s SiFi movie and Temp gage never worked always in the past the H and in the Black.
I replaced my gage cluster with a Real Clean one MARK A found me minus the Speed-O now everything works real well, Ammeter Bounces little bit at first start up then settles down quickly much better than what I had also Mark had a couple of options for ammeter gage replacement too if have the need.

http://s47.photobucket.com/albums/f182/Dusty66/Death Valley/?action=view&current=P1010392.flv
A little gage action

Hey........

You need to repeat the video but this time - keep your camera-hand steady!

 

[Josie'sLandCruiser]

Yeah! Like X2!!

Hey........

You need to repeat the video but this time - keep your camera-hand steady!

 

[Josie'sLandCruiser]

Hi All:

I think you may be expecting too much perfection from a 1950s tech charging system! ;p

As long as the alternator charges when needed, all is good! The carbed F/2F/3F do not require much in the way of electrical power to operate.

Regards,

Alan

The reason I'm replacing is to attempt to get rid of the needle bounce on the ammeter. The regulator is solid state, but i've read that poor brush contact can make it bounce.

 

[IDave]

So replace the brushes. They're like $5 at Napa.

 

[Degnol]

So replace the brushes. They're like $5 at Napa.

And a reman with warranty was less than $40

 

[IDave]

And a reman with warranty was less than $40

Uh-huh! So, Big Bucks, what ya gonna do? You have the wrong plug. You have to pay shipping twice.

 

[Degnol]

I do whatever i can to keep my favorite local autoparts store in business

 

[IDave]

I do whatever i can to keep my favorite local autoparts store in business

They all know me by first name, here, too.

 

[numby]

My early '78 had the cast in receptacle on the alternator and connections for two wires. The wiring harness I pulled from a later '78 (12/78 i think) had the bigger plug with the brown cylindrical rubber cover and three wires. The extra wire was a small gauge W/L that ran from the "N" plug to the the "N" connection on the later style voltage regulator. Specter lists the change date as 5/78. If you don't have the later '78 harness and regulator you can probably omit the "N" wire. The "B" connection on the alternator still takes the big W/L wire.

So to simplify: 3 wires for the early '78s & 4 wires for the later 78 models.

 

[Degnol]

Thanks for the info. I just returned the first one and he pulled up a pic of the '78 and that's the ticket.

Ed