Front Brake Parts List Help

[RND1]

Hey guys, I'm about to have the front brakes done on my '03 with 169k miles. Plan is rotors and pads, but not sure what the full parts list should be? Local mechanic doing the job and he said to make sure to get the oil seals in addition to the pads and rotors. There's a whole bunch of small parts in the list below - not sure which are required and which are nice to have? Brake pad insulator kit, Wheel bearings, axle nuts, washer gaskets, washer pins, snap ring, dust cap, etc. How much of the current stuff can be reused and how much should be replaced? Appreciate the help.

 

[RND1]

Anyone do front brakes recently? Did a search, but not finding much in the way of parts list.

 

[abuck99]

Not much to it- If using OEM parts: #19, #20, plus hardware if worn and replacement is required( more than likely in your environment) : if shopping OEM, you'll buy all that stuff individually. Aftermarket hardware kits are typically complete: generic kits available from many suppliers and work fine- here's one: here. Possibly piston seals if those are bad/leaking.

If the rotors are within spec you can have them resurfaced/turned maybe $20-25 per rotor- most repair shops like to sell you new rotors saying that its nearly the same price of new rotor vs resurfacing- they'll inflate the price of resurfacing to sell new rotor- total BS. Whichever, dont just install pads on old rotors with out resurface- you'll get poor results: pulsations, vibes, etc.

Good time for a complete flush & bleed of brake system with new fluid, clean bleeders and use new bleeder caps to protect them.

 

[Trunk Monkey]

Depending on when it was last done, having the rotors off is a great time to either replace wheel bearings (kit from Cruiser Outfitters) or at least repack the grease.

 

[AlpineAccess]

I'd clarify with him if the rotors are being turned on or off the vehicle.

If off, the axle seal makes sense as they can be damaged when removing the hub/pulling the rotor when the bearings move around. He's smart to want one as they are cheap and easy to replace.

If he's doing these off the vehicle it's a good time to repack the bearings if it hasn't been done. If they have been serviced a few times over the life of the vehicle they will be fine. My original wheel bearings had 180k on them and looked great. My neighbor is an aircraft mechanic and looked at them at work with a scope and said they were in very good shape. A visual inspection is all that's needed.

 

[fsung]

I just replaced my front rotor/pads, repack bearing, grease spindle bearing... on my 06. Since we are both in rust prone area (i'm from NY), I would suggest to replace these:
1. #20 - Pad anti squeal x 1
2. disc retaining clip 47748-60061 x 2
3. pad holding pin 90240-06024 x 4 (my was frozen in the caliper, had be cut and air hammered out)

My axle seals were actually intact when I removed my wheel hub.

 

[FxFormat]

Based on your location, there's a chance one of your brake caliper piston will be seized so get ready for that also. Part isn't expensive but make sure the mechanic knows how to properly bleed a 100 series. My tundra, tacoma, and 2 100 series all had at least one piston seize on the calipers when i did it. We see them here at my shop a lot too, those 4 piston front brakes seize all the time when the retain ring on the piston boot rust and unable to keep water and stuff from getting through.

 

[RND1]

Thanks guys for all the great feedback!

Not much to it- If using OEM parts: #19, #20, plus hardware if worn and replacement is required( more than likely in your environment) : if shopping OEM, you'll buy all that stuff individually. Aftermarket hardware kits are typically complete: generic kits available from many suppliers and work fine- here's one: here. Possibly piston seals if those are bad/leaking.

If the rotors are within spec you can have them resurfaced/turned maybe $20-25 per rotor- most repair shops like to sell you new rotors saying that its nearly the same price of new rotor vs resurfacing- they'll inflate the price of resurfacing to sell new rotor- total BS. Whichever, dont just install pads on old rotors with out resurface- you'll get poor results: pulsations, vibes, etc.

Rotors have never been done in my ownership (80k miles) so I'm going with new OEM rotors. Isn't item 20 above the hardware kit?

Depending on when it was last done, having the rotors off is a great time to either replace wheel bearings (kit from Cruiser Outfitters) or at least repack the grease.

AFAIK, the wheel bearings are original. Are the bearings items 2 and 3 above? If so, is it worth going OEM or buying timkin on amazon?

I'd clarify with him if the rotors are being turned on or off the vehicle.

If off, the axle seal makes sense as they can be damaged when removing the hub/pulling the rotor when the bearings move around. He's smart to want one as they are cheap and easy to replace.

If he's doing these off the vehicle it's a good time to repack the bearings if it hasn't been done. If they have been serviced a few times over the life of the vehicle they will be fine. My original wheel bearings had 180k on them and looked great. My neighbor is an aircraft mechanic and looked at them at work with a scope and said they were in very good shape. A visual inspection is all that's needed.

As I said above, he will be replacing the rotors so axle seals are a must. AFAIK, the wheel bearings have never been serviced.

I just replaced my front rotor/pads, repack bearing, grease spindle bearing... on my 06. Since we are both in rust prone area (i'm from NY), I would suggest to replace these:
1. #20 - Pad anti squeal x 1
2. disc retaining clip 47748-60061 x 2
3. pad holding pin 90240-06024 x 4 (my was frozen in the caliper, had be cut and air hammered out)

My axle seals were actually intact when I removed my wheel hub.

Excellent - thank you. Being in similar climates, this is exactly what I was looking for. Other than the pad hardware, did you have any issues with any other components like axle nuts, washers, caliper pistons, etc?

Based on your location, there's a chance one of your brake caliper piston will be seized so get ready for that also. Part isn't expensive but make sure the mechanic knows how to properly bleed a 100 series. My tundra, tacoma, and 2 100 series all had at least one piston seize on the calipers when i did it. We see them here at my shop a lot too, those 4 piston front brakes seize all the time when the retain ring on the piston boot rust and unable to keep water and stuff from getting through.

If this is the case, my mechanic will have to source local from Napa.

 

[abuck99]

You're about to head down the rabbit hole pulling the rotors; with interrelated parts cost but at your mileage at the wheel bearings are probably good- visual inspection will dictate.

Heres the challenge- you’ll be hard pressed to get proper service procedure on wheel bearing preload, correct snap ring gap measurement and choice- few techs know of or will take time to follow FSM procedure; which makes a difference in drivability and long term component life. This is where DIY comes into play. If youre not set up to DIY (some common tools and a garage) then oversee process to ensure your new parts are optimally installed. They may not appreciate your involvement but be sure to ask them their process.

You’ll need new snap rings of the correct thickness for the axle stub, new locking washers, new claw washers, ( dont allow any of these to be reused) may also need locking nuts if they have been chisled off and not removed with 54mm socket.

 

[uHu]

AFAIK, the wheel bearings are original. Are the bearings items 2 and 3 above? If so, is it worth going OEM or buying timkin on amazon?

As I said above, he will be replacing the rotors so axle seals are a must. AFAIK, the wheel bearings have never been serviced.

If this is the case, my mechanic will have to source local from Napa.

Use only OEM bearings. They last at least 300 k miles if maintained well. Maybe even twice that. Check
Good on the axle seals. But do check spindle bearings as well and give them some grease.
The Napa brake parts I have tried were not usable. There is no reason not to use OEM.

See the write-ups from user 2001LC on the matter.

And x2 on the thicker snap rings.

 

[RND1]

You're about to head down the rabbit hole pulling the rotors; with interrelated parts cost but at your mileage at the wheel bearings are probably good- visual inspection will dictate.

Heres the challenge- you’ll be hard pressed to get proper service procedure on wheel bearing preload, correct snap ring gap measurement and choice- few techs know of or will take time to follow FSM procedure; which makes a difference in drivability and long term component life. This is where DIY comes into play. If youre not set up to DIY (some common tools and a garage) then oversee process to ensure your new parts are optimally installed. They may not appreciate your involvement but be sure to ask them their process.

You’ll need new snap rings of the correct thickness for the axle stub, new locking washers, new claw washers, ( dont allow any of these to be reused) may also need locking nuts if they have been chisled off and not removed with 54mm socket.

Ok, you're making me reconsider my current plan. My local indie is a generalist - competent and fair mechanic, but doesn't know LC's in particular, but mentioned that it looks the same as the Tundra which he works on all the time. I have the tools (other than 54mm socket) and garage to DIY, but no time. I called my local dealer and they quoted $390 for turning rotors and installing new pads. My indie quoted $450 for new rotors and pads (aftermarket). Do you recommend I go the dealer route and leave wheel bearings alone this time around?

Use only OEM bearings. They last at least 300 k miles if maintained well. Maybe even twice that. Check
Good on the axle seals. But do check spindle bearings as well and give them some grease.
The Napa brake parts I have tried were not usable. There is no reason not to use OEM.

See the write-ups from user 2001LC on the matter.

And x2 on the thicker snap rings.

Thanks - are the wheel bearings items 2 and 3 in the schematic above? If I went with the oem snap ring, will it have the right thickness by default?

 

[Trunk Monkey]

Again, depending on miles and previous care, you may not need bearings at all, just new grease. Easy item to inspect when you're in there.

 

[uHu]

...Do you recommend I go the dealer route and leave wheel bearings alone this time around?

Repack required, if not done the last 20 k.

Thanks - are the wheel bearings items 2 and 3 in the schematic above?

Yes.

If I went with the oem snap ring, will it have the right thickness by default?

No. You have to measure each time. This is important if you want to reduce the wear on the splines and snap ring groove.

PS
Read 2001LC posts/threads. All your answers, and a few more, will be answered.

 

[abuck99]

FWIW 100 series front wheel bearing design is not similar to Tundra. They are completely different (tundra bearing are not serviceable): More similarity between Tundra and the 200 series. The 100 is similar to 80 series in that regard.

Dont mean to cause you to overthink it-( but since you asked.... ) just know you'll get the best long term result following the FSM for this procedure. Lot's of examples of poorly done work posted and found here in this specific area that contributes to driveline slop and loose prematurely worn components where the FSM clearly wasn't followed. A lot of small things to pay careful attention to: swapping hub to new rotor, replacing seals, lube spindle bushings, install of new bearings, correct grease and amount of grease added to center hub section, which flange hardware to replace, setting correct bearing preload, etc.

Depending on the age of the rotors, the center sections; (the vented portion) can get petty crusty and weakened. Since you live in a salt prone environment it may make sense to replace the rotors; but close inspection will reveal that.

 

[Ayune]

I'm about to embark on a similar project: New rotors, pads, & wheel bearings. My '98 LC has 310K miles and pulsation when braking. Last known bearing repack was 244K ago so "it's a bit overdue" and I'm replacing the bearings outright just 'cus. Front rotor have ~70K on them.

I'm following 2001LC's fabulous instructions across many threads, but the most recent is here:
Service: Wheel bearing, Steering Knuckle, Rack OE rubber mounting bushings, Ball joints W/Surprises!

Also, his videos are here:



Below is the list of parts bought from McGeorge Toyota (some P/Ns may be different for your '03):

Part Number	Qty.	Part Name	Price/ea
43512-60171	2	Brake Rotor	$61.07
90080-36067	2	Outer Wheel Bearing	$36.91
90080-36098	2	Inner Wheel Bearing	$51.25
90311-70011	2	Inner Bearing Oil Seal	$22.35
90214-42030	2	Bearing Claw Washer	$3.28
90215-42025	2	Bearing Lock Washer	$2.23
43423-35010	2	Dust Cap	$3.26
04465-60220	1	Brake Pads	$53.87
47748-60061	2	Brake Anti-Rattle Spring	$3.38
04947-60100	1	Brake Fitting Kit	$2.29
90240-06024	4	Brake Caliper Pin	$0.89
90080-46209	2	Brake Pad Retaining Clip	$0.99
90101-12144	4	Brake Caliper Bolt	$2.10
90201-12452	4	Brake Caliper Bolt Washer	$1.40
90520-31005	2	Axle Snap Ring (different sizes)	$2.01
90520-31006	2	Axle Snap Ring (different sizes)	$2.01
90520-31007	2	Axle Snap Ring (different sizes)	$1.62
90520-31008	2	Axle Snap Ring (different sizes)	$2.01
90520-31009	2	Axle Snap Ring (different sizes)	$2.01
90520-31010	2	Axle Snap Ring (different sizes)	$2.01
43422-60070	2	Drive flange Gasket	$1.68
42323-60030	12	Cone Washer	$1.31
90201-10075	12	Flat Washer (for cone washers)	$1.13
90170-10039	12	Nut (for cone washers)	$0.98
		Subtotal:	$518.72
		FedEx Ground Shipping:	$72.94
		Total:	$591.66

I also got a fish scale and 54mm socket from Amazon:



Amazon product ASIN B072SVHZLC

Amazon.com: Trail Gear 140157-1-KIT 54mm Axle Socket: Automotive

Buy Trail Gear 140157-1-KIT 54mm Axle Socket: Tool Sets - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

www.amazon.com

Plus: Rubber gloves, Mobil 1 Synthetic grease, and courage. Hope this helps.

 

[AlpineAccess]

Rotors have never been done in my ownership (80k miles) so I'm going with new OEM rotors. Isn't item 20 above the hardware kit?

AFAIK, the wheel bearings are original. Are the bearings items 2 and 3 above? If so, is it worth going OEM or buying timkin on amazon?

As I said above, he will be replacing the rotors so axle seals are a must. AFAIK, the wheel bearings have never been serviced.

I know you said you wanted to replace the OEMs. Other users have said to resurface and I concur to resurface if there is material. If not, new OEM rotors are the way to go. Very high quality, hold up well, and the pads and rotors are matched properly.

My rotors had been resurfaced four times at 180k and still had plenty of life left if the tire guys hadn't jacked the rotor up during a sloppy install. I tried first replacing with powerstops and had very poor results. Ended up with OEM rotors and pads again.

As mentioned, OEM bearings are best. No one talks about preloads on the aftermarket bearings also being different. Check with cruiser outfitters but Timken AND Koyo were OEM bearing suppliers for the 100.

Parts 2 and 3 are bearings and their included races.

 

[fsung]

Thanks guys for all the great feedback!



Rotors have never been done in my ownership (80k miles) so I'm going with new OEM rotors. Isn't item 20 above the hardware kit?



AFAIK, the wheel bearings are original. Are the bearings items 2 and 3 above? If so, is it worth going OEM or buying timkin on amazon?



As I said above, he will be replacing the rotors so axle seals are a must. AFAIK, the wheel bearings have never been serviced.



Excellent - thank you. Being in similar climates, this is exactly what I was looking for. Other than the pad hardware, did you have any issues with any other components like axle nuts, washers, caliper pistons, etc?



If this is the case, my mechanic will have to source local from Napa.

I have no other issues with caliper, wheel hubs/bearings... I found some surface rust on the caliper pistons, I just sanded it down before compressing the caliper. If your brake aren't frozen, then the caliper/piston are most like ok. Call me crazy, I reuse everything inside the wheel hub as they're still in very good condition. Mine has 140k, it's maintained properly.

My advice, jack up the front end, check wheel bearing by pushing and pulling at 3 & 9 o clock. If there're very noticeable movement. you may consider getting inner/outer bearings + claw washer/axle nut/star washer.. Also, buy the $20 54mm hub socket and bring it to the mechanic, it's the only way to set the preload correctly. Also, ask the mechanic to measure the axle gap when he's buttoning it up, you can buy correct snap rings and install later (no much work to install snap ring).

As far as preload, I will tell the mechanic to do this:
1. install adjusting axle nut and torque it to 47 ft/lb, turning the rotor back and forth a few times. This will ensure the bearings are seating correctly onto the axle.
2. back off the adjusting and re-torque to ~20 or 23 ft/lb.
3. install the star washer
4. install the outer locking axle nut, and torque to 47 ft/lb.
5. bent the tabs (1 for adj nut and 1 for locking nut)

I use the same procedure for my 80 and 100, have 300K+ miles between the 2, never have any wheel bearing issues.

 

[RND1]

I know you said you wanted to replace the OEMs. Other users have said to resurface and I concur to resurface if there is material. If not, new OEM rotors are the way to go. Very high quality, hold up well, and the pads and rotors are matched properly.

My rotors had been resurfaced four times at 180k and still had plenty of life left if the tire guys hadn't jacked the rotor up during a sloppy install. I tried first replacing with powerstops and had very poor results. Ended up with OEM rotors and pads again.

As mentioned, OEM bearings are best. No one talks about preloads on the aftermarket bearings also being different. Check with cruiser outfitters but Timken AND Koyo were OEM bearing suppliers for the 100.

Parts 2 and 3 are bearings and their included races.

My indie said there's plenty of material to resurface the rotors, but he doesn't have an on-vehicle brake lathe so if he's removing them, I would just go with new oem. It's all oem Toyota on there now so I think I'm going to go with the dealer's rotor resurface and pad install for $390. Next time around, I'll order up all the parts to DIY - this looks like a rite of passage with a 100, almost like a knuckle rebuild on an 80?

Thanks again for all the help guys. I will take a look at the threads and video's posted by 2001LC. Maybe I missed it, but he doesn't have a thread in his master list for a complete front brake job? Nor does he show how he repacks the bearings in the video above - again, maybe I simply haven't gone far enough or it's so simply no need to video?

 

[bigredmachine]

front pads, rotors x2, shims (if their rusted and crusted), slider pins for the calipers x4, hub gasket x2, rear hub seal x2 (so you can repack the wheel bearings), 1lb tub of your favorite wheel bearing grease. that's the minimum to remove and replace the brakes and rotors, depending on condition and further inspection you may want to also consider replacing calipers if they are seized or sticking as well as the short metal brake line between the flex line and caliper.

 

[Ayune]

2001LC’s YouTube channel has lots of videos that cover all the steps.