What the heck is this thing (2 Viewers)

[South Texas 97]

per the tags at the start of this message this is a 1969 FJ40 - @electroapprentice can you confirm?

the Ammeter circuit is a 'passthrough' so you can effectively skip the ammeter to begin with.

the link above to @Coolerman's website will give you the right diagrams, and I agree, print them out large format and laminate so you can make notes all over it, as to how it correlates to the Kwik wire universal harness. Will make the Owners and future owners life much better.

 

[electroapprentice]

per the tags at the start of this message this is a 1969 FJ40 - @electroapprentice can you confirm?

the Ammeter circuit is a 'passthrough' so you can effectively skip the ammeter to begin with.

the link above to @Coolerman's website will give you the right diagrams, and I agree, print them out large format and laminate so you can make notes all over it, as to how it correlates to the Kwik wire universal harness. Will make the Owners and future owners life much better.

It is a 69’ 40 and as a restoration shop I kind of need to get that ammeter going as much of pain as it is I just have to. I’ve yet to check out coolermans I’ll do that while I work today.

 

[45Dougal]

It is a 69’ 40 and as a restoration shop I kind of need to get that ammeter going as much of pain as it is I just have to. I’ve yet to check out coolermans I’ll do that while I work today.

The ammeter is dead easy. The wire from the battery feeds one stud, and every load on the truck is connected to the other side.

All current from the battery flows through it (apart from the fat starter motor feed).

 

[peesalot]

the main power in the oe harness runs thru the ameter. It was an easy spot to grab main power, looks like someone added a circuit breaker and some relays for acc or to put stock circuits on relays. The fuseable link is the overload protection vs. the circuit breaker you show, you may have both and/or 69' didnt have one in the oe wiring, not sure on that. My guess is whoever installed relays & breaker didnt repower the amp gauge/insrumnt cluster properly. if you havent idendified what the relays do you can follow the wire or if things are still grounded power up the outputs of relays ( disconnect from relay first ) with a jumper and see what comes on. I use a 12v flashlight batt, the old school big square ones work good for this.

 

[electroapprentice]

The ammeter is dead easy. The wire from the battery feeds one stud, and every load on the truck is connected to the other side.

All current from the battery flows through it (apart from the fat starter motor feed).

This is actually so helpful, if the starter is the only thing that draws current that isn’t connected though the ammeter then I wonder why the previous mechanics wired it through there.
So now I think it should be pretty easy to get the ammeter going now if the starter doesn’t have to be included, now I just have to buy new ammeter feeds because kwik wire doesn’t include them..

 

[electroapprentice]

the main power in the oe harness runs thru the ameter. It was an easy spot to grab main power, looks like someone added a circuit breaker and some relays for acc or to put stock circuits on relays. The fuseable link is the overload protection vs. the circuit breaker you show, you may have both and/or 69' didnt have one in the oe wiring, not sure on that. My guess is whoever installed relays & breaker didnt repower the amp gauge/insrumnt cluster properly. if you havent idendified what the relays do you can follow the wire or if things are still grounded power up the outputs of relays ( disconnect from relay first ) with a jumper and see what comes on. I use a 12v flashlight batt, the old school big square ones work good for this.

It would make sense for the people who did this last to not wire it properly this thing is a real mess with a splash of good wiring here and there. I’m guessing I’ll have to engineer my own way through this new harness to get everything working good.

 

[peesalot]

The ameter needs flow thru not just a power lead if that makes sense. Others will confirm but I believe the ameter is always hot and ign feeds off that ? I dont recall if a 69' had any " always hot " circuits, meaning like a dome light that worked with no ign on.

 

[45Dougal]

There are two types of ammeter - you should have the old type with the internal shunt.
Either way they seem to get fried somehow quite often.
Measure resistance across it and see what it reads. Open circuit =fried (or the new type).
You can rewind them with thin enameled copper wire if you are really keen.

 

[electroapprentice]

Okay, it’s a breaker. Now I’m just gonna say no breaker and rewire the ignition switch my only question is can the ignition switch handle 12v going through it or does it need an inline fuse?

 

[pb4ugo]

It should handle 12 volts.

 

[electroapprentice]

Okay, it’s a breaker. Now I’m just gonna say no breaker and rewire the ignition switch my only question is can the ignition switch handle 12v going through it or does it need an inline fuse?

It should handle 12 volts.

Thank you kindly

 

[45Dougal]

Thank you kindly

Voltage isn't the problem.
Current will kill it.
You should have a fusible link (aka a slightly thinner wire which will melt before your whole harness / switch gear in the event of a fault)..

 

[charliemeyer007]

I'm a big fan of fuses, I bought a bunch of the water proof blade type holders in 10 gauge - yea over kill when you put a 5 A fuse in it, but I don't care to stock a bunch of holder sizes. Oh and I got a few of the touch the opening in the fuse top checkers - nothing like a green glow to tell you its good.

 

[electroapprentice]

So I have to wire in a voltage regulator to this new harness as it doesn’t have a spot on the fuse block the way it comes. My question to you all is how exactly the regulator connects to the alternator, I think this may be an aftermarket alternator. Here’s the diagram I’ve been going off of.

My regulator has F E and IG but my alternator has F E and N. What does the N mean here? And how would I go about hooking them up to each other?

 

[electroapprentice]

So I have to wire in a voltage regulator to this new harness as it doesn’t have a spot on the fuse block the way it comes. My question to you all is how exactly the regulator connects to the alternator, I think this may be an aftermarket alternator. Here’s the diagram I’ve been going off of.

My regulator has F E and IG but my alternator has F E and N. What does the N mean here? And how would I go about hooking them up to each other?

View attachment 3539985

On the 68’ diagram it shows the regulator connecting to both the turn signal flasher and the fuse box but I don’t need it to connect to the flasher I just need to well… regulate so that the system can charge correctly.

 

[electroapprentice]

On the 68’ diagram it shows the regulator connecting to both the turn signal flasher and the fuse box but I don’t need it to connect to the flasher I just need to well… regulate so that the system can charge correctly.

 

[electroapprentice]

View attachment 3539987

I realize I just posted the same one….

 

[electroapprentice]

So I have to wire in a voltage regulator to this new harness as it doesn’t have a spot on the fuse block the way it comes. My question to you all is how exactly the regulator connects to the alternator, I think this may be an aftermarket alternator. Here’s the diagram I’ve been going off of.

My regulator has F E and IG but my alternator has F E and N. What does the N mean here? And how would I go about hooking them up to each other?

View attachment 3539985

I’m thinking of running the regulator through an unused fuse on the fuse block and connecting that to the ignition switch as the 68’ diagram shows. Can someone tell me if this is a terrible idea or just maybe that it’ll work?

 

[Coolerman]

Wow, you have a mess with that wiring.
The Kwik wire harness has a special wire just for the Regulator/Alternator power. It is the #14 White wire and is labeled Alternator Exciter. Connect it to the Ig terminal on the regulator. Also note that this wire is NOT fused!
Please note: If you are using an alternator with an internal regulator the #14 White will connect to the alternator.

 

[electroapprentice]

Wow, you have a mess with that wiring.
The Kwik wire harness has a special wire just for the Regulator/Alternator power. It is the #14 White wire and is labeled Alternator Exciter. Connect it to the Ig terminal on the regulator. Also note that this wire is NOT fused!
Please note: If you are using an alternator with an internal regulator the #14 White will connect to the alternator.

You are awesome this saves me lots of time thank you