Builds What the Foo is this???

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There are all kinds of vacuum valves used for emission systems. The factory VSV valve comes to mind.

Does it operate like a 3-way valve? If it does and it is compact it may work and have a coolness factor of being able to use toyota factory parts. Then again pricing may or may not be ideal.

Don't forget to put a breather filter into the 3rd ports on those solenoids 2fpower, otherwise it will pull just anything you've submerged it in into that system. Or at least just a piece of clear tube that hangs down from the solenoid.
 
Does it operate like a 3-way valve? If it does and it is compact it may work and have a coolness factor of being able to use toyota factory parts. Then again pricing may or may not be ideal.

Don't forget to put a breather filter into the 3rd ports on those solenoids 2fpower, otherwise it will pull just anything you've submerged it in into that system. Or at least just a piece of clear tube that hangs down from the solenoid.
Interesting line of thought. Most are 2way I believe, but there are NC and NO type so paired together you create a 3way with single powered source. A relay could be used to power the same type of solenoid also.
 
I believe the locker actuator on the C303 axles are a vacuum diaphragm. So vacuum strokes the diaphragm against the force of a spring, then opens to atmosphere to allow the diaphragm to be pushed back into place.

For anyone less familar, the solenoid valve allows a vacuum source to go through the valve to the line to the actuator (when energized), and then when de-energized switches the line to the actuator to connect with the third port on the solenoid, which is just a vent at atmospheric (0 psi) pressure.

When it does this, the vacuum in the lines wants to pull air back in to allow the locker diaphragm to sit in its normal position, wherein lies the possibility to suck debris in at the solenoid, The three way solenoid will have three ports, (one from vacuum source, one to the actuator, and the third should have a drain line or vent filter to keep crap out)

The thing is, it would only want to do this when you de-energize the solenoid, which usually isn't when it's sitting in mud or water, but if your vehicle stalled or things were caked with muck there is some risk. I would just mount the solenoids somewhere dry in the engine compartment, maybe up on the firewall or something and leave 4 inches of tube hanging vertical off the solenoid vent or get something like this

Aliexpress.com : Buy 10pcs 1/4"NPT Male Pneumatic Muffler Filter Sintered Bronze Silencer Vent Brass from Reliable pneumatic muffler suppliers on FY Eletrical&Tool Store

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The vaccum actuator valves you mention may be for emmisions and are just a valve allowing vapor to be pulled into the coal cannister or intake to burn them, but may work if used together. The only thing is you would need to find one NO and one NC when energised, so that you wouldn't need to power one or the other all the time, or just get a 3 way.
 
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Looking around the shop, I found this three-way valve I got from @tornadoalleycruiser sometime ago. From reading the label, it appears to work under vacuum. also, great suggestion on the vented caps @cody c

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Attachments

Where do you pull your vacuum from? The intake manifold?

Yes, I put a 3/8 T at the manifold where the brake booster pulls from.
 
This might be your huckleberry. I have 2 you can have.

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Just confirmed these are 3way normally closed for vacuum. I have some plugs but the ridges line up differently. They would have to be trimmed. I’d guess you could find these plugs very common on the newer Toyota’s. And older with different pattern
 
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Just confirmed these are 3way normally closed for vacuum. I have some plugs but the ridges line up differently. They would have to be trimmed. I’d guess you could find these plugs very common on the newer Toyota’s. And older with different pattern

A person can just put spade crimp on ends on some wires, push them over the prongs, and then fill with a two part epoxy like JB weld. Not as clean as plugs but just as functional.
 
@cjmoon

You are the man. I ordered the other ones, but those look like they are made to go under a hood and would put up with the elements. Will have to go to the junkyard to find some plugs.

What was the application?
 
These came out of Evora’s but anywhere the 2GR 3.5 Toyota engine is used should have these plugs. The valve timing solenoids and emissions solenoids all use the same plug.

The plugs I have that could be made to fit are 1fz injector plugs just have to shave 2 locators off the plug as orientation is different
 
Here is what they look like. Old injector Plug next to it. Will be your direction Sunday night for hockey and can drop them off. 9:30 ish

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Looks really good. What is your current width of those axles wms to wms? Also curious what is the width outside to outside of tires?

Sorry, forgot to measure this, looks like about 69 inches between mounting surface of wheel. land cruiser is about 63.
 
Been finishing up a bunch of projects around the house, so finally got back to getting the valves that @cjmoon donated to the project. They are OEM Toyota parts off of a Lotus. I put electric rocker switches in the cab. Mounted then as high as possible. Tested them out, and worked really well!!!

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Also reworked the rear shock mounts to get them in alignment, then powder coated them.
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Time to get bigger tires on this....

39.5” pit bull rockers. 17” rim size. About 14” across at treads. How big of rim do I need? Anyone have good thread on making your own bead lockers?
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Layed out what 2” cut would look like
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Pulled off the sliders to remove 3 inches from the front and inch and a half from the back. Cut and sleeved.

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I’m trying to find some stock 17 x 9 rims to start with and purchase a DIY bead locking kit.

Anyone know steel wheel of that size? Hate to buy brand new rims just to grind and weld them!!!
 
Started chopping the rear wheel well. We had pushed the rear axle back, so only needed to chop the rear side These are still the old tires, 35” New ones are 39.5” so need a little more than 2.25” clearance
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Here is the cut area for front and back.
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The front is really big chop with the pivot point with the portal.
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