Builds What the Foo is this??? (1 Viewer)

[2fpower]

had to read instructions a bunch and exploded diagram helped a lot, figured out how to take this apart. Had to go out and get a M 10 x 1.0 mm bolt drive out the hub. That is extra fine, as 1.25 is the fine m10.

 

[2fpower]

Then time to tear down. Took out the 6 hex bolts to remove the backing plate for the drum brakes. Be careful, as there is a seal that goes over the top of that inside flange. You’ll see in the pictures below, I am fortunately ruined it thinking It was not wrapped around the outside.

 

[2fpower]

Next is to figure out how to chuck it up to the large. First thought about chucking it really close to the hub, but that is oil seal surface. Went back and watch the video from California, look like he chucked it up on the nut using a live center

So this is where I’m at now, spinning this .005 out of round. So the question is, is this good enough, or do I need to find a way to get this perfect?

 

[I Lean]

Can you put a dial indicator on the shaft itself? If that's running true, then your flange wasn't straight to begin with...

 

[JeepinPete]

Why not clamp the chuck on the splines? You'd be hard pressed to hurt them. That nut certainly isn't made to the kind of precision the rest of the shaft was.

 

[I Lean]

Why not clamp the chuck on the splines? You'd be hard pressed to hurt them. That nut certainly isn't made to the kind of precision the rest of the shaft was.

I damaged some driveshaft splines by clamping them in my lathe chuck before, so I'd be careful with that.

 

[cjmoon]

I’d have to say your working on some s***y material if you can’t firmly clamp them on a lathe. Lathe clamps are typically soft. I’ve clamped on bearing surfaces pistons splines. Unless your cutting to fast and deep the clamp shouldn’t affect the clamped surface.

 

[baldilocks]

Very impressive and inspiring work being done here.

 

[I Lean]

I’d have to say your working on some s***y material if you can’t firmly clamp them on a lathe. Lathe clamps are typically soft. I’ve clamped on bearing surfaces pistons splines. Unless your cutting to fast and deep the clamp shouldn’t affect the clamped surface.

It was a Toyota driveshaft. Maybe the splines are soft?

 

[nukegoat]

I love this thread. The portal axle looks badass. Keep going

 

[cjmoon]

It was a Toyota driveshaft. Maybe the splines are soft?

Drive shaft splines are different many are mad with softer coatings for les friction to allow movement during rotation. This type of shaft should not. But again if you clamp it to loose and allow slip that is the biggest issue.

 

[2fpower]

Got first cut done. Going to have to watch some videos on what tooling to us on steel. First time doing this sort of stuff on steel, tried new tooling, but never cut really great. Also need to rewire to 30amp, as blew the breaker several times.

 

[BILT4ME]

Got first cut done. Going to have to watch some videos on what tooling to us on steel. First time doing this sort of stuff on steel, tried new tooling, but never cut really great. Also need to rewire to 30amp, as blew the breaker several times.
View attachment 1683679 View attachment 1683680

Looks like you may be hogging material a bit too fast for that bit based on the size of the chips and the roughness of the cut. Don' take off as much with each cut. Also may want to speed up the rotation if possible. You should be taking off a MAXIMUM of about 0.012 with each cut. The harder the steel, the less amount you can get with each cut. Looks like you blued your cutting bit. Heat kills those bits and I know those aren't cheap.

 

[2fpower]

I have almost no idea of what I am doing...... I was the nerd in wood class, so metal lathe work is been all youtube and guessing.

 

[2fpower]

would these be hardened parts that I need special bits for?

Turning inserts and grades for hardened steel

I have a stack of inserts that they guy I bought the lathe gave me; however, I don't seem to have the right tool. I have some diminsions and part numbers for the inserts. Trying to understand that tool I need to purchase to mount and use them. I have three different size ones. Pics below.

 

[waiting for time]

Try cooling with compressed air.

 

[BILT4ME]

would these be hardened parts that I need special bits for?

Turning inserts and grades for hardened steel

I have a stack of inserts that they guy I bought the lathe gave me; however, I don't seem to have the right tool. I have some diminsions and part numbers for the inserts. Trying to understand that tool I need to purchase to mount and use them. I have three different size ones. Pics below. View attachment 1684798View attachment 1684799View attachment 1684800View attachment 1684801View attachment 1684802

Go to Beaver Tool on Mission Road in KCK and talk with them about what machine you have and what bits you need.

The steel you're cutting is not hardened unless you are going to cut axle shafts and gears or castings.

You need to use some cutting oil as a coolant and lubricant while cutting. It can be a can that drips or pours on it while cutting and yes, it's messy.

Steel doesn't like to be cut dry.

 

[cjmoon]

Even a can of wd40 spray a thIn coat before every pass makes a big difference. We usually get away with that for the occasional use. Air with oil mister is occasionally used.

 

[JeepinPete]

Old school and cheap, pipe threading oil available at Lowe's or Home Depot. It smoke like crazy, stinks a bit too, but make a huge difference in the quality of the cuts.

 

[2fpower]

Proving that I do listen — once in a while— I went down to beaver tool as suggested by @BILT4ME really great guys down there, bought a new insert holder and some cutting fluid. Also, listening to @cjmoon tightened the Chuck around the splines. Used gauge and center section was really close to perfect. So after about an hour of turning....