What the deuce is this thing?

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Is this on both the 60 and 62? And if Mine (60) is desmoged, then I probably don't have it any more, iwould this also be correct?

Thanks for the pics.
 
Is this on both the 60 and 62? And if Mine (60) is desmoged, then I probably don't have it any more, iwould this also be correct?

Thanks for the pics.

3FEs only, so no 60 application. Also, being desmogged wouldn't eliminate that (if you have it in the first place, anyway). It's to help prevent pressure surges in the fuel rail.
 
Is there a good reason not to put loc-tite on the bolt?

Thats what i did. If you read back far enough someone put JB weld on it. The replacement part has a rivit instead of a screw.
 
Just snug it down (don't overtighten it, just snug)

Come on guys, I can't believe this nonsense is still continuing. RTFM! - the screw is NON-ADJUSTABLE and for calibrating the action of the damper, NOT for snugging things down. If you snug it down you've defeated the purpose of the damper by fixing the volume of the fuel rail. If the damper is defective and leaking, replace it, otherwise leave it alone.

Bill
 
Come on guys, I can't believe this nonsense is still continuing. RTFM! - the screw is NON-ADJUSTABLE and for calibrating the action of the damper, NOT for snugging things down. If you snug it down you've defeated the purpose of the damper by fixing the volume of the fuel rail. If the damper is defective and leaking, replace it, otherwise leave it alone.

Bill

If the screw has worked its way out, what do you suggest I do?
 
Bill is suggesting we all replace ours that have backed out completely, as we cannot approximate this adjustment. Is there anyone who locked it down(jb weld or loctite) with mileage reports yet?
 
If the screw has worked its way out, what do you suggest I do?

If I were in your position, I'd just screw it back in enough so that when the fuel rail is pressurized the screw head rises up about 1/8". If it leaks, replace it.
 
Come on guys, I can't believe this nonsense is still continuing. RTFM! - the screw is NON-ADJUSTABLE and for calibrating the action of the damper, NOT for snugging things down. If you snug it down you've defeated the purpose of the damper by fixing the volume of the fuel rail. If the damper is defective and leaking, replace it, otherwise leave it alone.

Bill

IIRC, when there is no pressure against the fuel rail, the screw should sit snugly against its O-ring. This allows it to still protrude when pressure is against it.

In other news: for those talking about JB Welding it in place, DON'T DO IT! The screw is supposed to be able to pulsate in and out as the pressure fluctuates in the fuel rain.
 
Anyone out there have a spare...I just need the screw & o ring....missing on mine and it's not leaking.
 
Follow up.....found screw and o ring...It does make a difference!!! I'm going to order the part from Toyota and replace it with a new one. The guy at the toyota bone yard said that once the screw is out your damper is shot. I'll keep you guys posted with a mileage report.
 
Saw all these postings, and found the fuel pulsation magic screw in my 62- the screw i had was just sitting in the cap- i tightened it, but not too tight, and the screw has stayed in basically the same place all week

saw a slight rise in rpm's at idle, will let forum know once i drive it enough of any boost in gas mileage:cheers::beer:
 
Alright. The screw was all the way out on mine. Let's see if I can go from 10mpg back to the respectable 15-17mpg I got when the 62 was brand new.
 
Follow up.....found screw and o ring...It does make a difference!!! I'm going to order the part from Toyota and replace it with a new one. The guy at the toyota bone yard said that once the screw is out your damper is shot. I'll keep you guys posted with a mileage report.

Maybe while it's out I could see that. I would expect it'll work normally when the screw is reinserted, unless it has to be seated in a particular way on an internal part. Maybe I'll look at getting a junker part and tearing it down to see what's what inside.

That reminds me; time to check my screw again too....
 
Ok, 300 mile round trip. A lot of highway. Several small town stop lights. Driving 65-85 mph during the day, I got 17.83 mpg on the 150 miles on my way to San Saba. I got 17.64 on the way back. Not bad for 10% ethanol gas. 18 mpg +/- 1 mpg is what this cruiser got on highways when it was brand new. Over the years I've observed that 10% ethanol drops gas mileage 10%.

In the city, with stop and go traffic + AC, I'm getting ~12 mpg. Now I need to recharge or convert my AC so it blows cold and I don't run it full bore. If I could get it to 15 mpg in the city, I'd be happy.
 
i want a magic screw for my 60:crybaby:

Haha after reading through this thread it really does sound like a magic screw...better check mine i think lol
 
Found it! Sneaky little thing. Grey cap in place, screw in place, no need to tighten.

Crap. I was so hoping there really was a Santa Claus of mpg.:crybaby:
 
FYI, I just replaced mine on my 80 and my idle also went up to around 900 and smoothed out..

I had one too many 7/8" wrenches laying around, I cut the open end to about 3.5" long and held it in place while using a small hammer to tap the wrench to get it off and to secure it again..

Andrew
 
mine was out completely no idle issues though I screwed it back in....need to back off a bit after reading some posts not to overtighten it.
 

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