"What should I mod first?" — let's discuss (1 Viewer)

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@tbisaacs Of course these things can get way out of hand when one person swears you need a pull pall winch anchor to go to Costco whereas one guy said he did the Rubicon in a stock Rav4 with bailing wire and duct tape, but these graphical representations are most helpful when they're "geared" towards the masses.
Was it really a stock RAV4 or the TRD Pro model. I saw one in my neighborhood and thought it was a joke where someone had gone to the dealer and purchased a badge from a Tacoma or something and stuck it on the Rav 4 but it's a real thing. See the link above.

Installed my first mod today and I couldn't be happier. I think I see a snowball rolling toward me...

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You converted your LC to electric with it attached by a really long wire to the power pole sticking out of the roof? 😉 Just teasing! Looks great!

I'm trying to keep my build to mostly utilitarian over appearance, at least initially. I don't want to get stuck in the outback with a great looking truck. So, I've started with 17" wheels, 33" tires, on-board air, Weathertech mats, one ARB recovery point up front and hitch mounted recovery point in the back, sliders to be installed in next week or two, and a home-built roof rack that I'm testing out. Next on the agenda may be skids, mild front bumper (Dissent style, holds a winch but not for pushing cattle over), "real" roof rack, infotainment swap (can't stand the OEM Toyota/Lexus systems and I want my Apple Car Play!), maybe some additional lights or lightbar.
 
I'm interested in why compressor is so early? Are we talking full OBA or just a compressor thrown in the back?
 
Because you can drive more safely, comfortably, faster, and better traction on aired down tires. But you can’t air down If you can’t pump up. A moderate priced $150 option is fine, no reason to go for a built in immediately. You can also get a power tank. When you’re done futzing with the portable, you’ll step up to a built in, or you’ll decide you like the flexibility of a portable And stick with it. As you go into the larger tire sizes a builtin Makes more sense.
 
Great thread! I'll echo same as others, the base capability is impressive. Some larger AT tires, sensor lift and sliders and you can tackle a lot.

For me, compressor made sense, and 4-way air hose were great convenience items. This is a family hauler too so a bit cautious about doing too much building that affects ride etc. Have appreciated the <$100 thread to add LEDs, better fogs for winter weather and BH3Ds cupholder.

My approach after tires and skids is really just see what is working and what isn't and take it slow. So far Yakima roof box is holding gear well, doesn't look as cool as a FrontRunner/Prinsu/Giamvetti etc, but also cheaper at the moment and getting the job done.

A set of xbull recovery tracks were inexpensive compared to maxxtracks and so far haven't been needed. Some random hardware from HD and Lowe's and they're firmly mounted on crossrails.

After LCDC I know a rear bumper is high on the list.

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I'm interested in why compressor is so early? Are we talking full OBA or just a compressor thrown in the back?
Full OBA couple of reasons for me:
  1. I want the confidence of knowing that if I go low (air) that I can easily pump back up. This will probably lead me to being more adventurous in the future and not saying to myself "Well, I'd love to ride that trail but I should air down and then it'll take 45 minutes at the end to air back up which I don't want to do" and then bypass it.
  2. It was a relatively cheap project (<$350 I believe) since I went with a Viair pump and not an ARB.
  3. I had the time, funds, and motivation to do it between "big" projects so I went ahead and did it.
  4. My story is at the tail end of this thread by @TeCKis300
 
Great thread! I'll echo same as others, the base capability is impressive. Some larger AT tires, sensor lift and sliders and you can tackle a lot.

For me, compressor made sense, and 4-way air hose were great convenience items. This is a family hauler too so a bit cautious about doing too much building that affects ride etc. Have appreciated the <$100 thread to add LEDs, better fogs for winter weather and BH3Ds cupholder.

My approach after tires and skids is really just see what is working and what isn't and take it slow. So far Yakima roof box is holding gear well, doesn't look as cool as a FrontRunner/Prinsu/Giamvetti etc, but also cheaper at the moment and getting the job done.

A set of xbull recovery tracks were inexpensive compared to maxxtracks and so far haven't been needed. Some random hardware from HD and Lowe's and they're firmly mounted on crossrails.

After LCDC I know a rear bumper is high on the list.

View attachment 2404663

re: rear bumper

I couldn't agree more. I find the rear departure angle the largest liability of the stock bodywork. I don't even worry much about breakover without sliders. Lift seems to only go so far with departure angle as the overhang is pretty long. Wishing there was a lightweight slider type protection for the rear that wasn't focused on swing outs. I'm okay with trimming the bumper too.

Kaymar comes close to what I'm looking for, but is not a direct fit for the LXs AHC - EDIT: Link discussing fitment
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re: rear bumper

I couldn't agree more. I find the rear departure angle the largest liability of the stock bodywork. I don't even worry much about breakover without sliders. Lift seems to only go so far with departure angle as the overhang is pretty long. Wishing there was a lightweight slider type protection for the rear that wasn't focused on swing outs. I'm okay with trimming the bumper too.

They Kaymar comes close to what I'm looking for.
View attachment 2406397
I think Long Range America sells Kaymar bumpers.
 
IMO there’s no single “path” that is “best,” simply because everyone has different needs, wants, and uses.

I say take the truck out and do what you need to do. When you notice something lacking, improve it as necessary for your needs. Rinse and repeat. That’s an approach that will work for everyone, without getting into upgrades that are more wants vs needs.

My Tacoma had around 20k in upgrades and goodies. Objectively, most were not only unnecessary, but actually made the truck worse.

The LX has 33” AT tires, ARB twin compressor, upgraded lighting in stock locations, roof cross bars and some interior storage options. That covers the vast majority of what I actually need.

Down the line I hope to make it down to Slee and get their sliders and a 12.5 gallon LRA tank. Possibly some light, aluminium skids for peace of mind. Not much more than that.
 
What a great post! As a new 2013 LX owner I'm planning to make my way (partially) through this list. :)

Can someone help me understand why rear bumpers are before front bumpers? I always assumed front bumpers are important to mount a winch, but rear bumpers are only helpful if you need the long range gas tank. Rear bumpers look cool, but feel impractical to me: less visibility, a longer car (harder to park), more steps to open the rear hatch etc.

Update: just read the above comment about departure angles, but looking at most people's rear bumpers (the kind that holds the spare) it seems like they'd make the departure angle worse by making the car longer?
 
What a great post! As a new 2013 LX owner I'm planning to make my way (partially) through this list. :)

Can someone help me understand why rear bumpers are before front bumpers? I always assumed front bumpers are important to mount a winch, but rear bumpers are only helpful if you need the long range gas tank. Rear bumpers look cool, but feel impractical to me: less visibility, a longer car (harder to park), more steps to open the rear hatch etc.

Update: just read the above comment about departure angles, but looking at most people's rear bumpers (the kind that holds the spare) it seems like they'd make the departure angle worse by making the car longer?
The thinking is a rear bumper or rear bar will protect when you drag it. Not if you drag it, but when.
 
The thinking is a rear bumper or rear bar will protect when you drag it. Not if you drag it, but when.

the only part I’ve “customized” when off-road is the rear bumper cover. I scraped the heck out of it coming down off a ledge on my way down from Imogene pass.
 
My intended use was for a “jack of all trades” Off road capable.... but good for going on long trips.... Alaska for example. Rig is never gonna go to Moab. More worried about snow and mud.

1. Remove rear seats and install arb drawers..... wanted to lock up valuables.
2. Redarc brake controller.... was gonna trailer to Alaska this summer.
3. Bp-51 and rear bumper.
4. 40 gal tank.

So far so good. Truck rides and handles much better than stock.

this fall I will add a front bumper and winch. I only need/use a winch about once a year, but when I have needed a winch, I have .... really....needed one. Have had one very significant deer strike....not in LC... almost $12,000 in repair. Want to protect the cruiser as best I ca.

Perhaps larger tires when the set already on it needs replaced.


2017 LC

Serious question; what does one do with the rear seats once removed? I don't have a ton of room to store them, so I'm wondering what creative uses exist out there!
 
Serious question; what does one do with the rear seats once removed? I don't have a ton of room to store them, so I'm wondering what creative uses exist out there!

I have the same problem with them taking up space in my garage. Some whimsical ideas are below as well as mounting to the roof rack for that real "open air" experience, complete with bugs in the teeth.

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Popular mods to consider adding to the above purty picture:
2nd Fuel Tank
Dorkel

My driving with skids and sliders vs without is less considered. It'll bounce off vs it'll get damaged makes a big difference on what I'm willing to try. Also definitely more go pedal use . . . not sure this is a good thing.

I'm also getting better gas mileage, which is weird.

You're getting better mileage WITH the armor vs not? What do you attribute that to?
 
My first mods besides baselining the maintenance. I put in LED bulbs in the back-up lights. huge plus at night in the woods.I pulled the third row. Scrounged Craigslist and found RW's and new BFG's in 2 separate ads. The truck is capable off road as it sits. I have the FJ cruiser and a Lincoln Town car when we need to get serious.
 
re: rear bumper

I couldn't agree more. I find the rear departure angle the largest liability of the stock bodywork. I don't even worry much about breakover without sliders. Lift seems to only go so far with departure angle as the overhang is pretty long. Wishing there was a lightweight slider type protection for the rear that wasn't focused on swing outs. I'm okay with trimming the bumper too.

Kaymar comes close to what I'm looking for, but is not a direct fit for the LXs AHC - EDIT: Link discussing fitment
View attachment 2406397

I dig it- I might have missed it (and probably worth its own thread), but have you seen any comparisons of the different bumper options that are out there and the respective pros/cons? Obviously fitment of AHC is a concern on the LX side, but beyond that, why Slee/Dissent/Kaymar/ARB/RLC/Others I'm forgetting?
 
The thinking is a rear bumper or rear bar will protect when you drag it. Not if you drag it, but when.
Ah I see, that makes sense. Is there a damage multiplier for rear bumpers like there is for the slider/rocker panels, or can I just wait to get a rear bumper if/when it gets damaged on a trail?

Though I had not considered a rear "bar" that doesn't have the spare tire setup. That sounds like the best of both worlds: protection and still just as easy to use the rear hatch.
 
Ah I see, that makes sense. Is there a damage multiplier for rear bumpers like there is for the slider/rocker panels, or can I just wait to get a rear bumper if/when it gets damaged on a trail?

Though I had not considered a rear "bar" that doesn't have the spare tire setup. That sounds like the best of both worlds: protection and still just as easy to use the rear hatch.

Main thing I've heard from Slee with the rear bumper is that it's not a full replacement, you're cutting existing plastic, so if you take too hard a hit before they're replaced you can damage the factory clips and panels and make them unusable. That being said, I've taken some decent hits and so far it's still intact.
 
You're getting better mileage WITH the armor vs not? What do you attribute that to?
A smooth underbody airflow? Maybe more highway miles? It's been 1 or more mpgs, enough to notice.
 

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