Vae Victus
Posting more than I know
We are reading. Keep up the good work.
What is this? Dimond in the very ruff?
- Thread starter monke south
- Start date
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Please tell me you kept that nice looking steering wheel....?
Great work , despite the jungle !
Sarge
Great work , despite the jungle !
Sarge
- Thread starter
- #123
Hay Sarge, yes we kept it I just need to find a turn signal lever for the colom
Chad Wells
Chad Wells
- Thread starter
- #124
Trevor and I stopped in at the workshop to see if they had made any progress. The panel beater has started to cut out the rust and and replace.
This is the right hand side of the bonnet with rust holes.
This is the left hand side with the patches
This is one of the fenders with some repairs
When the repairs are all done we will bring them all back to Pangia, grind down the welds, sand off all the old paint and prime. That sounded so easy!
Chad Wells
This is the right hand side of the bonnet with rust holes.
This is the left hand side with the patches
This is one of the fenders with some repairs
When the repairs are all done we will bring them all back to Pangia, grind down the welds, sand off all the old paint and prime. That sounded so easy!
Chad Wells
- Thread starter
- #125
I have no gauge for the quality of this work as I have never done body work nor have I ever seen it done. So what do you guys think?? Should I have them continue or find someone else to do the work? If you have any guidance it would be welcomed. If its workable I can give them some instructions that would give us the best results possible.
Chad Wells
Chad Wells
Not to offend , but it looks as though they are overheating the metal , this can cause the panels to be brittle and crack later at the repair points . I know they probably aren't equipped with a mig welder but a good artisan with a torch can repair those panels easily without warping or causing more damage .
What do the back side of the welds look like ?
Sarge
What do the back side of the welds look like ?
Sarge
- Thread starter
- #127
Sarge no offense taken. I'm looking for some constructive criticism. That way I can go back to the work shop and give some intelligent instruction. As it is now I have no idea so this helps. I didn't take a picture of the backside of the repairs, but if I remember right it looked similar to the front. We do have a bit of a language barrier. The man doing the work is Filipino that doesn't speak English or pidgin (the trade language here) so I half to work through another Filipino with limited pidgin and English. It's a bit of a mess. The other problem is the people here don't understand why I would want to fix this "piece of trash " "just buy a new one"
Because of this mentality it's hard to get them to do a good job.
Chad Wells
There are some amazing metal craftsman in your part of the world , maybe just seek one out ....?
It's not easy to gas weld sheetmetal although the thickness of Cruiser panels helps . Just takes someone with the skill to do it right and it will last .
Sarge
It's not easy to gas weld sheetmetal although the thickness of Cruiser panels helps . Just takes someone with the skill to do it right and it will last .
Sarge
coleman2347
Ole Jarhead
I guess because I live in the Philippines and where I live there isn't a mig or tig in sight, I know that there are some unbelievable guys with a torch. If you can get them to take their time you should be happy with the results...but if its like here, figure on about 4x the length of time you originally figured..and be open to things/methods you never saw before...at least not for the last 50 years...Filipinos are genius at innovation. I suppose that's because they have had to be...Lee
- Thread starter
- #130
Lee
You are right that is the nature of things here as well. I just need to communicate what I want and then give the artisan the time and space to make it happen.
Chad Wells
You are right that is the nature of things here as well. I just need to communicate what I want and then give the artisan the time and space to make it happen.
Chad Wells
- Thread starter
- #131
Today we went back to work on the chassis, or more specifically the front axel.
First the removal
Then the cleaning
And wire wheeling
Trevor priming the housing
Next the knuckle rebuild but that's for another day!
Chad Wells
First the removal
Then the cleaning
And wire wheeling
Trevor priming the housing
Next the knuckle rebuild but that's for another day!
Chad Wells
- Thread starter
- #132
Trevor and I went back to work today on the front axle. I was able to get all the bearings and seals at a parts store last week, I was very surprised! I tried Ela Moters first ( that's the name of our Toyota dealership ) but they didn't have anything we needed. The salesman told me he could special order!? ie big money and months of waiting. I know these parts aren't as good but we will make do.
On to the pictures. I assume you want to see?
Hub with the bearings and oil seal out, and the new bearings and oil seal ready to go in.
New inner bearing packed with grease
Trevor taping the new oil seal into place
Chad Wells
On to the pictures. I assume you want to see?
Hub with the bearings and oil seal out, and the new bearings and oil seal ready to go in.
New inner bearing packed with grease
Trevor taping the new oil seal into place
Chad Wells
- Thread starter
- #133
Here is Trevor taping in the new oil seal
Chad Wells
Chad Wells
- Thread starter
- #134
I thought I would post a few pictures of this beautiful jungle we live and work in.
Chad Wells
Chad Wells
Been reading this thread for a while now, great job so far!
Unless a spring over isnt legal there I seen no reason not to pull the trigger and do it. I also dont understand why others are saying that it will be more likely to break. Youre using stock springs, they shouldnt break.... I cant really see what else would break when compared to the sua if the truck is built right.
As for an soa set up being crap on road, thats bs. Yes its gonna ride a little different but if done properly it rides just fine and you get used to the "quirks" just like anything else. My sixty series is soa'd on stock springs and it rides great. No twitchy steering, it tracks straight at speed, and takes corners..... like a lifted truck. A sway bar or two would tame the ride but I like it the way it is and dont drive like Mario Andretti so there isnt any issue.
I say build your truck into whatever you want it to be, do it properly, do lots of reading, but dont get brow beaten by the purists into keeping it a stocker time capsule.
D
PS ever since I first found this thread Ive been dreaming of stumbling onto a wicked old cruiser in the bush. Its usually an FJ55 though lol.
Unless a spring over isnt legal there I seen no reason not to pull the trigger and do it. I also dont understand why others are saying that it will be more likely to break. Youre using stock springs, they shouldnt break.... I cant really see what else would break when compared to the sua if the truck is built right.
As for an soa set up being crap on road, thats bs. Yes its gonna ride a little different but if done properly it rides just fine and you get used to the "quirks" just like anything else. My sixty series is soa'd on stock springs and it rides great. No twitchy steering, it tracks straight at speed, and takes corners..... like a lifted truck. A sway bar or two would tame the ride but I like it the way it is and dont drive like Mario Andretti so there isnt any issue.
I say build your truck into whatever you want it to be, do it properly, do lots of reading, but dont get brow beaten by the purists into keeping it a stocker time capsule.
D
PS ever since I first found this thread Ive been dreaming of stumbling onto a wicked old cruiser in the bush. Its usually an FJ55 though lol.
- Thread starter
- #136
I was thinking that since I have an extra front dif housing I might give it a try. The whole cut and turn is a bit scary to me. If I use stock springs and shackles would I still need new steering parts? The back seams pretty straight forward.
Chad Wells
Chad Wells
- Thread starter
- #137
Saturday when we were working on the knuckle rebuild, we couldn't go any farther than the bearings and and oil seal. The inner oil seal that goes on the housing is the wrong size. It's two small. So I will change that out for the right size next time I'm in town. I might send the old seal in with one of the bus drivers to try and exchange for me.
Since we still had time we took off the rear axle. Sorry no pictures of that, the power had been off for about 14hr and my phone battery was dead.
The u bolts were very damaged and rusted. My 18mm socket was a casualty! But we got them all off in the end. At this time about 15 of my youth group boys were hanging around so I had them carry the axle into our little makeshift workshop. The brake drum on one side was very easy to remove, as it was covered In oil, from a leaky seal. The other side, well 30 min of beating with a 5lb sledge hammer was just more than it could resist. The c clips to get the shafts out took a little time to figure out but we got it all apart. Unfortunately the oil seals for the back are the wrong size as well.
Chad Wells
Since we still had time we took off the rear axle. Sorry no pictures of that, the power had been off for about 14hr and my phone battery was dead.
The u bolts were very damaged and rusted. My 18mm socket was a casualty! But we got them all off in the end. At this time about 15 of my youth group boys were hanging around so I had them carry the axle into our little makeshift workshop. The brake drum on one side was very easy to remove, as it was covered In oil, from a leaky seal. The other side, well 30 min of beating with a 5lb sledge hammer was just more than it could resist. The c clips to get the shafts out took a little time to figure out but we got it all apart. Unfortunately the oil seals for the back are the wrong size as well.
Chad Wells
Couple reasons. Accessibility/cost of aftermarket parts is one, pure lift is another.
He is trying to make a nice wheeler and keep the cost down. A spring over does cost a reasonable amount if done properly. Also, he would be running at least 35" tires. Those cost a pretty penny in just about any neck of the woods but Iceland and the US. If you do not address axle wrap you ARE more likely to break. Additionally, if you add 35" tires, you front end is more likely to fail than if you are on 33's. the bigger tire size afforded by a SOA does a number on your existing components.
SOA is a gateway drug
Bumping this thread to see if there has been any more progress. What you are doing is amazing, keep up the good work.
- Thread starter
- #140
Funny you should ask
Trevor and Daniel have all the chassis parts, front and back axles, brake parts and probably some parts that shouldn't be, sanded and primed with two coats of primer.
It's not the cleanest job, but then again this is PNG and we are in the jungle. And I'm trying to let Trevor do as much as he can himself. So all you purist please understand.
That being said, back to the question at hand.
I was looking at the motor mounts and it seams we have a problem. I looks like the mounts on the chassis are at a different angle than the brackets on the engine.
As you can see these mounts are at a very slight angle.
Whereas the angle on these brackets are at a much steeper angle.
This is the block out of a 83 hj47 the chassis is from the 81 hj47. I have looked at the 83 chassis it is the same as the 81.
The other problem I see is that the mounts on the chassis have a small pin to the side of the main bolt. The brackets on the engine have a small hole just beneath the main bolt.
So can someone help me sort this out?
Chad Wells
