What is the cost of ownership of 1st gen GX470? (1 Viewer)

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I have been on the market (NYC) for a 1st Gen GX 470 with a budget of 10-15k and I'm wondering what the average range is for cost of ownership. I've browsed these boards for some time and read the LX470 FAQ but answers overall seem to vary. I understand the timing belt needs to be changed every 90k which is expensive, otherqise should I expect a constant flow of maintenance issues every few months that?

I will be driving it down to Florida and will not be doing any off roading. It would be my daily driver (35 miles/day) and used for weekend camping trips, etc.
 
The LX470 is an 80 series and its cost of ownership is in no way related to the GX, which is a 120 series.

FWIW, my Lexus dealer once told me that the GX is the most reliable model Lexus has ever sold.
 
The LX470 is an 80 series and its cost of ownership is in no way related to the GX, which is a 120 series.

FWIW, my Lexus dealer once told me that the GX is the most reliable model Lexus has ever sold.
Is the LX470 generally considered to be less reliable than the gx?
 
I'm not exactly sure what you mean but it entirely depends on the truck. I would agree the GX is more reliable than any other option in the Lexus book however there are some GX's out there that did soccer mom duty and weren't shall we say cared for in the same way.

Did they change oil and rotate tires? Yea however mine for example needed timing belt, water pump etc and now I'm replacing lower ball joints, tie rod ends, wheel bearings etc...

Don't get me wrong I love my GX but just be sure you buy the right one. Not that it's a huge problem I just feel some of the LC's were cared for in a different way.

You buy the GX for the 2UZFE and the roomier, heavier, stronger (V8) truck conpar d to a 4runenr. Get one and replace all suspension components and move on to enjoying it.
 
From everything I have gathered from my time lurking on 'Mud in the 100 and 120 series sections (as these are the trucks I will be looking to get), it seems cost of ownership (as stated above) correlates to how well the vehicle was previously cared for. With any vehicle there will be maintenance costs such as ball joints, oil changes, tie rod ends, etc.(not sure if we have much feedback on how much these repairs run at dealers/shops). Your findings on the TB/WP are a good place to start, don't forget the heater hose T's as well. Suspension replacement looks like it is about $1600 on average (folks please correct if I am wrong) to swap from AHC to coil springs. Add in cost of new tires as well- let's say $1200 for tires.

In all my planning for whenever the time comes for me to get a Cruiser, if it hasn't been cared for (no records) I anticipate trying to get a lower price and factor in about $3k for repairs and tires, and this seems to be pretty low. I know some people have bought their trucks from dealers and had the TB/WP and tires worked into the deal there.

Apples to oranges but I spoke with a guy who recently bought a 1st gen sequoia ('03 I think it was) with about 268k on it. He said they put a couple thousand into it after buying it but it's a solid truck. I use this comparison as the 1st gen was powered by the same engine, so I am presuming he had the PM work done on it.

Hope this helps.
 
From everything I have gathered from my time lurking on 'Mud in the 100 and 120 series sections (as these are the trucks I will be looking to get), it seems cost of ownership (as stated above) correlates to how well the vehicle was previously cared for. With any vehicle there will be maintenance costs such as ball joints, oil changes, tie rod ends, etc.(not sure if we have much feedback on how much these repairs run at dealers/shops). Your findings on the TB/WP are a good place to start, don't forget the heater hose T's as well. Suspension replacement looks like it is about $1600 on average (folks please correct if I am wrong) to swap from AHC to coil springs. Add in cost of new tires as well- let's say $1200 for tires.

In all my planning for whenever the time comes for me to get a Cruiser, if it hasn't been cared for (no records) I anticipate trying to get a lower price and factor in about $3k for repairs and tires, and this seems to be pretty low. I know some people have bought their trucks from dealers and had the TB/WP and tires worked into the deal there.

Apples to oranges but I spoke with a guy who recently bought a 1st gen sequoia ('03 I think it was) with about 268k on it. He said they put a couple thousand into it after buying it but it's a solid truck. I use this comparison as the 1st gen was powered by the same engine, so I am presuming he had the PM work done on it.

Hope this helps.

I would say your right near the $1600 average on suspension BUT you can get much lower if on a budget or even much higher. I spent way less on my suspension which included 5100's on front and rear, Toytec 112-620 springs up front, and Toytec Superflex 2" springs on the rear with MetalTech4x4 conversion kit. If you buy the isolators seperate on amazon you can save about $80-100. I would say my setup is about as budget as you can get. I'll have to look back at my notes but I'm pretty sure I was all in there for about $950.

I'm spending more now on Ball Joints ($120 or so for upper and lowers) although I would suggest skipping uppers and spend your money on SPC Upper Arms or Total Chaos Upper Arms because you'll need them for Caster, Wheel Bearings ($279 per side), and Tie Rod Ends soon and trying to do as much as I can myself because I was quoted about $600 in labor for doing ball joints and pulling out my 5100's to raise one clip.

My timing belt/waterpump job replaced all related parts as suggested and I was out the door for roughly $1,000 even at Lexus dealer and that included an oil change.

I would say my all in total right now on parts/maint is around $5,000 and that includes suspension, maint, BFG KO2's, and front runner rack so I feel like i'm going pretty good.
 
So OP, you could try and find a high mileage truck, get it for about $6-7k and for the middle of your budget range have it built very nicely. Check cargurus and autotrader for cheaper trucks, but expect them to be tired and in need of refreshing.
 
It's ridiculously expensive. It's insane because you will do too much preventive maintenance and upgrades. Here's how it goes for a mild/medium build.

First, you will want to do a lot of preventive maintenance like change all the fluids (brakes, diffs, transfer case, transmission, oil). Then you realize that you need to change your timing belt, water pump, radiator, upper/lower radiator hoses, serpentine belt. Now you cooling is new. This will set you back like $1000 in parts if you do some of the labor yourself.

Second, you want bigger tires and rims with lower offset. You will get 285/70-R17s. This will set you back another $2k. Now you realize that you need a lift because the tires are too big for the stock suspension. So, you get UCAs, coilovers, and rear springs. This sets you back another $2500.

Third, you realize that you want to upgrade your brakes, rotors, and calipers. This will set you back another $500 in parts.

Next, you realize that you are offroading too hard and need sliders, skid plates, and at least a rear locker (Aussie or Lokka). This is close to $1k in parts.

Finally, your radio sucks and now you will spend another $500 upgrading the head unit, front door speakers, and sub-woofer. This assumes you go to a shop to get this work done.

You now have spent more money upgrading than the rig cost you!
 
Price of buying an old truck. Once it is done... You are good for a long while.
 
Price of buying an old truck. Once it is done... You are good for a long while.
dat true...or you can buy a well maintained pristine gx470 for $16k and just put slightly bigger tires and you are at the same price, but no mods.
 
You will still have the PM, otherwise you will have the problems
 
It's ridiculously expensive. It's insane because you will do too much preventive maintenance and upgrades. Here's how it goes for a mild/medium build.

First, you will want to do a lot of preventive maintenance like change all the fluids (brakes, diffs, transfer case, transmission, oil). Then you realize that you need to change your timing belt, water pump, radiator, upper/lower radiator hoses, serpentine belt. Now you cooling is new. This will set you back like $1000 in parts if you do some of the labor yourself.

Second, you want bigger tires and rims with lower offset. You will get 285/70-R17s. This will set you back another $2k. Now you realize that you need a lift because the tires are too big for the stock suspension. So, you get UCAs, coilovers, and rear springs. This sets you back another $2500.

Third, you realize that you want to upgrade your brakes, rotors, and calipers. This will set you back another $500 in parts.

Next, you realize that you are offroading too hard and need sliders, skid plates, and at least a rear locker (Aussie or Lokka). This is close to $1k in parts.

Finally, your radio sucks and now you will spend another $500 upgrading the head unit, front door speakers, and sub-woofer. This assumes you go to a shop to get this work done.

You now have spent more money upgrading than the rig cost you!

Or you don't go overboard. Do whatever PM is necessary, put 265/70's or 255/75's on your stock wheels ($600), and go drive places.

The attitude of "you need to spend $10k on your truck to go anywhere" is silly.
 
Agreed. I spent WAAAY more than that, but I have been building my truck for almost 9 years now. Don't keep up. Just keep a pace.
 
All I have on my truck is a lift, tires and sliders with regards to off-roading modifications. I did the PM, but I do that on any used car I buy, so I don't really count that. The wheels/tires/lift/sliders were less than 5K combined. Plenty of fun could be had for less, these trucks are fairly capable in stock form.
 
The cost is relative since all vehicles will require maintenance. Mods have been mentioned a lot here, but those are totally within your voluntary control. What matters is the relative cost to maintain and operate the truck. In that case, we're looking at gas costs, insurance, repairs, and any oddball maintenance items.

Insurance on my GX had been significantly less than my 80 Series cruiser was. Same with repairs, although I think every GX owner should plan on replacing the alternator, radiator, timing belt, and water pump. All those parts are relatively cheap and all those things are readily done by a shade tree mechanic. The shocks will get tired and the rear airbags will eventually go out, but suspension is a wear item on any car. Replacing these with Lexus parts will decimate your wallet, but using high quality aftermarket alternatives can be done relatively cheaply. Truck tires are generally more expensive than car tires, but this truck will be no more expensive to replace tires than any other comparably sized truck.

You won't find a more reliable vehicle, and the truck is not so exotic that it is expensive to repair or maintain. Most maintenance and repairs can be done by the average DIYer, especially with the support of this website/forum. It is rare for a vehicle to have such a supportive online forum in regard to answering questions and assisting with work on the car. I have spent time on Acura, Honda, Dodge truck, Porsche, Subaru, Toyota 4R, and other Lexus/Toyota forums. Only T4R and the Porsche forums have been nearly as good as 'Mud in terms of support and helpfulness.
 
It's ridiculously expensive. It's insane because you will do too much preventive maintenance and upgrades. Here's how it goes for a mild/medium build.

First, you will want to do a lot of preventive maintenance like change all the fluids (brakes, diffs, transfer case, transmission, oil). Then you realize that you need to change your timing belt, water pump, radiator, upper/lower radiator hoses, serpentine belt. Now you cooling is new. This will set you back like $1000 in parts if you do some of the labor yourself.

Second, you want bigger tires and rims with lower offset. You will get 285/70-R17s. This will set you back another $2k. Now you realize that you need a lift because the tires are too big for the stock suspension. So, you get UCAs, coilovers, and rear springs. This sets you back another $2500.

Third, you realize that you want to upgrade your brakes, rotors, and calipers. This will set you back another $500 in parts.

Next, you realize that you are offroading too hard and need sliders, skid plates, and at least a rear locker (Aussie or Lokka). This is close to $1k in parts.

Finally, your radio sucks and now you will spend another $500 upgrading the head unit, front door speakers, and sub-woofer. This assumes you go to a shop to get this work done.

You now have spent more money upgrading than the rig cost you!

You speak the truth, but nothing wrong with that. This is the standard M.O. for most DD builds
 

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