What have you done to your Land Cruiser this week?

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jjenloe said:
Let me tell you about the most pain in the ass job to do. I decided to hot rivet the rear frame rail to the cross members rather than simply bolting them in. Some of you might have had great success, so please share your experience with details. Here is mine....
1. finding and using the right backing buck was a huge pain. I used a combonation of the threaded jack style, old dolly that I carbided a divit in, 1.5" pipe filled with weld and then welded on a small section of 1" square tubing. On flat surfaces, each of them worked fine. However, the sections that were a tight fit and had other riviets on the opposite side were the bigget head ache. I could not get enough clamping force on the buck to hold down the backing buck. The vibration from the air hammer cause the buck to come off and ruin several rivets. I would then have to grind off the rivet and start all over
2. Air hammer was another issue. All I had was my long barrel air hammer which was way too powerfull and always knocked the backing buck off. I ordered a short throw barrel on Amazon
3. Hot rivet bit. My first attempt was to make a bit to go into the air hammer by taking a 1" carbide bit to a standard pneumatic hammer. This worked well, but didnt get the desired "factory" shape after numerous modifications. I then decided to buy one online. This one gave me the desired dome shape, but dammaged the frame from the edges. I then took it to the lathe to machine a few thousands off and softened the edge. This worked well, but the bit would occasionally bounce off and ruin the finish. At this time I was completely over it.
After several attempts I finally gave up and decided to simply bolt the rivet and try to dome the hex head with heating it up and using the air hammer. I will touch it up with a bit of shaping with the air grinder.
Again, if you have detailed instructions to share on this process, please share. View attachment 4107472View attachment 4107473View attachment 4107474
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Toyopat Resto on youtube

Edit - it is blocked to view on anything but youtube for some reason. Here is URL... www.youtube.com/watch?v=i78AUU_brYU
 
ranchdawg said:
I opened a box and hung it up. Shiny!View attachment 4107527View attachment 4107528
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One note for those buying these… I have the mini-truck power steering and the Cyl 6 header pipe rubs against the steering box enough that the manifold flange doesnt quite sit flat Trying to figure out what to do, but I may just need to bite the bullet and flatten that pipe a bit (maybe 1/4”?) in that area to give it a bit of space. Bummed if I have to do that as I spent a lot of $$ having them powder coated.
 
Restored an FJ40 16360-61023 9/77 - 1/80 Carb Cooling Fan.

For those who are interested the only difference between the 61023 and the 16360-61024 1/80 - 7/80 is the connector. Everything else is the same.

All parts were powder coated and factory hardware was yellow zinc plated.

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Ackcruisers said:
Restored an FJ40 16360-61023 9/77 - 1/80 Carb Cooling Fan.

For those who are interested the only difference between the 61023 and the 16360-61024 1/80 - 7/80 is the connector. Everything else is the same.

All parts were powder coated and factory hardware was yellow zinc plated.

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Fantastic work! That is some great work man, how did you get the insulation sheath on the probe wire so clean?

For those considering this, I would highly recommend a carb cooling fan if you don’t have one. I recently restored and installed one on my rig (I’m in Colorado where we have lots of warm days), no vapor lock issues at all since installing it. I can run errands without any more hard starts!

You might need to fix or replace your carb cooling fan controller (mine was not working), @Engineer8000 may still have more for sale (he fixed one for me and it works great).
 
Trigger6 said:
One note for those buying these… I have the mini-truck power steering and the Cyl 6 header pipe rubs against the steering box enough that the manifold flange doesnt quite sit flat Trying to figure out what to do, but I may just need to bite the bullet and flatten that pipe a bit (maybe 1/4”?) in that area to give it a bit of space. Bummed if I have to do that as I spent a lot of $$ having them powder coated.
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I snugged mine up this weekend. If you have a stock box and shield, you have about 8 or 9mm of clearance. This wrench is 8mm in the middle.
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procomsignathid said:
Fantastic work! That is some great work man, how did you get the insulation sheath on the probe wire so clean?

For those considering this, I would highly recommend a carb cooling fan if you don’t have one. I recently restored and installed one on my rig (I’m in Colorado where we have lots of warm days), no vapor lock issues at all since installing it. I can run errands without any more hard starts!

You might need to fix or replace your carb cooling fan controller (mine was not working), @Engineer8000 may still have more for sale (he fixed one for me and it works great).
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Thanks! I agree. No hard starts. I retrofitted a 61023 into my 2/76 and made my own top bracket. The factory bottom bracket fits perfectly into the firewall.

The thermo switch sheath is new. Heat rated fiberglass.
 
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Trigger6 said:
I would be thrilled with even a 1/4” (6mm) gap
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If you loosened all 4 motor mounts, it’s possible that you could pick up an 1/8”.😉 Check the fan clearance on the passenger side of the fan shroud first.
 
ranchdawg said:
I snugged mine up this weekend. If you have a stock box and shield, you have about 8 or 9mm of clearance. This wrench is 8mm in the middle.
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I didn’t have clearance on my ‘78 and had to remove the shield. I found in one of the threads that I wasn’t the only one.
 
nabbasi said:
I didn’t have clearance on my ‘78 and had to remove the shield. I found in one of the threads that I wasn’t the only one.
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mine’s a 76 and I’ve already removed the heat shield and it still didnt fit…. and I dont want to leave the shield off long term with that proximity of the header to the steering box… its tough enough keeping that ps fluid cool (and yes, I do have a cooler installed in front of the radiator)
 
Trigger6 said:
mine’s a 76 and I’ve already removed the heat shield and it still didnt fit…. and I dont want to leave the shield off long term with that proximity of the header to the steering box… its tough enough keeping that ps fluid cool (and yes, I do have a cooler installed in front of the radiator)
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I bought some thing heat shield stuff you see on modern cars to test out, but haven’t gotten around to it. Steering is the least of my issues at this point!

I test fit and noticed I had one bolt that would be a problem so I just removed it. I chalked it up to old things. I added them as part of my sniper install, and think they’re great.

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nabbasi said:
I bought some thing heat shield stuff you see on modern cars to test out, but haven’t gotten around to it. Steering is the least of my issues at this point!

I test fit and noticed I had one bolt that would be a problem so I just removed it. I chalked it up to old things. I added them as part of my sniper install, and think they’re great.

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you will like the sniper once it gets tuned… but that said, the O2 sensor is extremely sensitive to air leaks so getting the sniper leak-free to the intake manifold and the intake manifold / headers leak-free to the head is critical to get it tuned.
 
Fairly simple swap to use the correct trailer hitch today… still took me 2 hours. Every bolt snapped despite a week of KROIL every other day
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^^^
That’s living in the East.🔧
 
You're right…!

Oddly enough….this 40 came out of Washington State. Since moving in with me, it hasn’t seen a drop of rain, a flake of snow or a crystal of salt
 
knuckle47 said:
You're right…!

Oddly enough….this 40 came out of Washington State. Since moving in with me, it hasn’t seen a drop of rain, a flake of snow or a crystal of salt
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Washington still has a lot of corrosion problems
 
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