What have you done to your Land Cruiser this week?

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No wonder it was handling badly this morning.
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I pulled out on my drive to go down to my other entrance, so I could hunt this morning and found i blew a bead last night. It sucked cause that meant I had to walk up the hill this am.
Fortunately it was a quick fix and I didn't hurt the tire. I'm good to go for this evening.
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sadovnik said:
The screws are just regular m5 25mm screws. As to the grommets, I removed the ones on the original pad and re-used them. The new pad did come with some grommets but I liked the original ones better so I used those. If you need the grommets, City Racer has them here. See picture of the original grommet (right) vs. the new ones. View attachment 4029661
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Fantastic! I just dropped a wad at CR on fog lights (happy birthday to me). I'll get these next month.
 
pb4ugo said:
No wonder it was handling badly this morning. View attachment 4029768
I pulled out on my drive to go down to my other entrance, so I could hunt this morning and found i blew a bead last night. It sucked cause that meant I had to walk up the hill this am.
Fortunately it was a quick fix and I didn't hurt the tire. I'm good to go for this evening.
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So, no ethanol or propane explosion re-bead video? Kind of anti-climactic! YouTube had me believing that is the only way!
 
MatthewMcD said:
So, no ethanol or propane explosion re-bead video? Kind of anti-climactic! YouTube had me believing that is the only way!
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I doubt that would work. The sidewalls on these tires are thick and really stiff. The ratchet strap works great. I usually have to pull the valve stem core for more free flowing air. Especially if I have to use the ARB compressor.
 
pb4ugo said:
I doubt that would work. The sidewalls on these tires are thick and really stiff. The ratchet strap works great. I usually have to pull the valve stem core for more free flowing air. Especially if I have to use the ARB compressor.
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It 100% works with boggers lol I have had to do it 8 times on the same wheeling trip before.
Trick is to jack up the wheel and use something kinda violent like Ether. It's important to get as much mud as possible out of the sealing surfaces.
 
pb4ugo said:
I doubt that would work. The sidewalls on these tires are thick and really stiff. The ratchet strap works great. I usually have to pull the valve stem core for more free flowing air. Especially if I have to use the ARB compressor.
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When I had Ground Hawgs on mine the side walls were so stiff they did not flex when flat and still held the weight.
 
Thechief86 said:
It 100% works with boggers lol I have had to do it 8 times on the same wheeling trip before.
Trick is to jack up the wheel and use something kinda violent like Ether. It's important to get as much mud as possible out of the sealing surfaces.
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Ether here too. For about 40 years. The old timers schooled me back in ‘83. By ‘86 I wasn’t even bothering to take the tire off the truck to do it.

Pull the Schrader valve and let it scream like a banshee!
 
You guys are just showing off. Fire for effect.😀 I've been using ratchets straps since i started changing tires. Sometimes the machines air blast wasn't enuff. It's not uncommon for us to pop a bead. It takes longer to jack the vehicle up than to seat the bead, unless we're using the ARB compressor. I've been doing this for a long time. It was my fault, I hadn't checked the pressure lately. It's always easier to have enuff air in the tire so it doesn't happen.

Once we put 35x15.5 boggers on 8"wheels. We had to use a spud bar with a longer pipe over it. It took 2 of us to compress the tire so the tire changer could get to outer bead on the rim. He'd run about 0 psi wheel'n and never blew a bead.
 
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pb4ugo said:
You guys are just showing off. Fire for effect.😀 I've been using ratchets straps since i started changing tires. Sometimes the machines air blast wasn't enuff. It's not uncommon for us to pop a bead. It takes longer to jack the vehicle up than to seat the bead, unless we're using the ARB compressor. I've been doing this for a long time. It was my fault, I hadn't checked the pressure lately. It's always easier to have enuff air in the tire so it doesn't happen.

Once we put 35x15.5 boggers on 8"wheels. We had to use a spud bar with a longer pipe over it. It took 2 of us to compress the tire so the tire changer could get to outer bead on the rim. He'd run about 0 psi wheel'n and never blew a bead.
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I was running a 33x12.5 on 15x10 rims back in the early days. Lots of sidehill running in sand dunes, 10psi. The rubber didn’t want to spread that far with a ratchet strap. Once I switched to 15x8s, I think I only had to do it once
 
I have no use for 10" wide wheels.
 
pb4ugo said:
I have no use for 10" wide wheels.
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Nor do I, any more. keep in mind a K5 Blazer is a sprung-over, top-heavy beast. Those rims meant a lot in terms of lateral stability to someone just learning how to throw 5200# of V8 muscle around. As I said in the first installment of the Markguyver series, by 1987 I was a high-speed, dune running fool. I owe a fair amount of that to those 10" rims.😉
 
@65swb45 i was there in the “early days”. My 40 had 8” Jackman 8 spoke and many guys were using 10” versions of those wheels. They stood out a bunch from the wheel wells and you’d better had lifted the truck. Had 10” chrome spokes on the 86 Suburban. K2500

By the way: no more conveyor car washes at that size
 
A twenty year daydream finally come to life, I modernized the very dim, original cab light with one from an FJ60. The mounting bracket is only accessible while the roof is off, and I wasn't ready to make the switch the last time the roof was off.

Turned out for the best, because the longer you live with a truck, the more ideas you have. The mounting bracket now has 'wings' it wouldn't have had before. The wings will help stabilize a future overhead console that is still in the imagination phase.
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65swb45 said:
A twenty year daydream finally come to life, I modernized the very dim, original cab light with one from an FJ60. The mounting bracket is only accessible while the roof is off, and I wasn't ready to make the switch the last time the roof was off.

Turned out for the best, because the longer you live with a truck, the more ideas you have. The mounting bracket now has 'wings' it wouldn't have had before. The wings will help stabilize a future overhead console that is still in the imagination phase.
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I have been thinking about getting some of that LED strip tape and hiding it inside the ceiling rail on a dimmer. That way the whole ceiling will illuminate, and you won't be able to see the lights. I have my OEM cab light on the B pillar, but I think this will make finding crap in the back easier. I also have 2 glass lights that I don't think are original that were fitted on either side of the rear top (near the piston mounts for the hatch). They were very rusted when I removed them but I might try and resurrect them.
 
I did this 2 weeks ago on the runways of a four post lift. It lights the undercarriage very nicely but I’m using a 20A DC power supply for about 40 feet
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