Can you take some pics per chance of the female adapter and maybe the page in the instructions for that info.
What have you done to your 200 Series this week? (16 Viewers)
- Thread starter MScruiser
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Can you take some pics per chance of the female adapter and maybe the page in the instructions for that info.
Canyonero, your truck looks perfect...love it. I think you should make this your profile pic though.
Also, I know I sound like a broken record lately, but what size tires are those? They look like 295/65.
Also, I know I sound like a broken record lately, but what size tires are those? They look like 295/65.
Sorry, offline all weekend. Let me snap some pics.
The ARB harness was not usable for more than just spare wire of marginal quality IMO. Our trucks should all be tow-ready to my knowledge. Do you not have this 7-pin plug, right side of spare? If not, root around to see if there is at least a pig tail. I hope there is. If no joy, use the grommet that came with the ARB for the lower right fender through-hull and splice into the passenger side tail light wiring as your best bet.
I was not a fan of the circa '70s looking filament bulbs that came with the ARB bumper so updated to LEDs. Same for the license tag (light-n-boltz):
http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B004NYKBGM?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00
Lots of ways to accomplish this but I chose to use this Anzo USA 851010 from Oreilly:
The above allows you to preserve the 7-pin trailer hookup including aux power and brakes for the trailer. It also allows disconnectable wiring for the driver's side pair of outboard Running and Turn signal as well as the drivers side pair of inboard Running and Brake. Ditto for the passenger side.
Let me know if details would help elsewhere!
The ARB harness was not usable for more than just spare wire of marginal quality IMO. Our trucks should all be tow-ready to my knowledge. Do you not have this 7-pin plug, right side of spare? If not, root around to see if there is at least a pig tail. I hope there is. If no joy, use the grommet that came with the ARB for the lower right fender through-hull and splice into the passenger side tail light wiring as your best bet.
I was not a fan of the circa '70s looking filament bulbs that came with the ARB bumper so updated to LEDs. Same for the license tag (light-n-boltz):
http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B004NYKBGM?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00
Lots of ways to accomplish this but I chose to use this Anzo USA 851010 from Oreilly:
The above allows you to preserve the 7-pin trailer hookup including aux power and brakes for the trailer. It also allows disconnectable wiring for the driver's side pair of outboard Running and Turn signal as well as the drivers side pair of inboard Running and Brake. Ditto for the passenger side.
Let me know if details would help elsewhere!
I can take a photo but I don't think it will help anyone with a US truck. It's designed to connect to wiring we don't have. We had the whole rear of the truck apart before realizing this. They have included a type of lighting adapter and maybe trailer ECU that is supposed to plug into a harness we don't have. I think most NAMER people just tapped into a tail light harness if they didn't use the tow harness.
gaijin
GOLD Star
For a quick change of pace, how about an easy, cheap, makes you feel good project?
You call these Tow Hooks / Tiedowns?
Pretty scrawny by LandCruiser standards, IMHO.
So ... I sourced a pair of Tundra Tow Hooks from BJowett and just had them powder coated red:
Which ones would you like on your truck - OEM on the left and BJowett's Tundra hooks on the right:
I thought so!
Take 4 bolts out, put 4 bolts in and ... voila!
Now that's what I call understated elegance, accomplished in less than 10 minutes, for little money.
Those who care, will notice:
You call these Tow Hooks / Tiedowns?
Pretty scrawny by LandCruiser standards, IMHO.
So ... I sourced a pair of Tundra Tow Hooks from BJowett and just had them powder coated red:
Which ones would you like on your truck - OEM on the left and BJowett's Tundra hooks on the right:
I thought so!
Take 4 bolts out, put 4 bolts in and ... voila!
Now that's what I call understated elegance, accomplished in less than 10 minutes, for little money.
Those who care, will notice:
Sorry, offline all weekend. Let me snap some pics.
The ARB harness was not usable for more than just spare wire of marginal quality IMO. Our trucks should all be tow-ready to my knowledge. Do you not have this 7-pin plug, right side of spare? If not, root around to see if there is at least a pig tail. I hope there is. If no joy, use the grommet that came with the ARB for the lower right fender through-hull and splice into the passenger side tail light wiring as your best bet.
I was not a fan of the circa '70s looking filament bulbs that came with the ARB bumper so updated to LEDs. Same for the license tag (light-n-boltz):
http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B004NYKBGM?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00
Lots of ways to accomplish this but I chose to use this Anzo USA 851010 from Oreilly:
The above allows you to preserve the 7-pin trailer hookup including aux power and brakes for the trailer. It also allows disconnectable wiring for the driver's side pair of outboard Running and Turn signal as well as the drivers side pair of inboard Running and Brake. Ditto for the passenger side.
Let me know if details would help elsewhere!
Have any more pics or details. can you still use the OE plug to use for a trailer?
We chose a way to allow us to use 100% OEM 7 way trailer lighting, brake controller and plug without damaging factory wiring. If you follow the ARB harness method I'm not sure what the outcome would be on a US truck. It would take a ton of unnecessary sorting to make it work for our brake controllers, running lights, tail lights, turn signal, etc. and by then it would be more work and mess.
With that Anzo USA Plug the advantage is that it's basically a 7pin bridge tap. It's a plug extension so that all 7 pins still work for your trailer plug and then those side cables allow you to solder in the lighting without disrupting any factory wiring:
That "BACK" shot of the plug goes into the female receptacle on the 200
That "FRONT" shot is where you plug your trailer in
That bottom pic shows the forked 4-flat pins split Left and Right, and crucially, that red wire down the centre. This is what I used to control the various lighting functions depending on your lighting choices
I can specify what I did exactly, by wire colour, but it's relative to the LED lights we chose to use. Happy to do that if it would help but it's a lot of detail to relay if not
With that Anzo USA Plug the advantage is that it's basically a 7pin bridge tap. It's a plug extension so that all 7 pins still work for your trailer plug and then those side cables allow you to solder in the lighting without disrupting any factory wiring:
That "BACK" shot of the plug goes into the female receptacle on the 200
That "FRONT" shot is where you plug your trailer in
That bottom pic shows the forked 4-flat pins split Left and Right, and crucially, that red wire down the centre. This is what I used to control the various lighting functions depending on your lighting choices
I can specify what I did exactly, by wire colour, but it's relative to the LED lights we chose to use. Happy to do that if it would help but it's a lot of detail to relay if not
Did you paint them red or did they come that way? Looks goodFor a quick change of pace, how about an easy, cheap, makes you feel good project?
You call these Tow Hooks / Tiedowns?
Pretty scrawny by LandCruiser standards, IMHO.
So ... I sourced a pair of Tundra Tow Hooks from BJowett and just had them powder coated red:
Which ones would you like on your truck - OEM on the left and BJowett's Tundra hooks on the right:
I thought so!
Take 4 bolts out, put 4 bolts in and ... voila!
Now that's what I call understated elegance, accomplished in less than 10 minutes, for little money.
Those who care, will notice:
In the last week I installed my prestigious audio Navi add on. Here is where I put my switch. Its tucked up on the left panel by the cig lighter.
Also got sick of the chipped woodgrain on the shift knob, so I painted it to match the metallic trim.
Also installed my BajaRacks utility rack. Its a new design, well tweaked a little from the previous. I'm very happy with the rack.
Also got sick of the chipped woodgrain on the shift knob, so I painted it to match the metallic trim.
Also installed my BajaRacks utility rack. Its a new design, well tweaked a little from the previous. I'm very happy with the rack.
gaijin
GOLD Star
So ... I sourced a pair of Tundra Tow Hooks from BJowett and just had them powder coated red:
I think it was about 950 USD , After exchange to CAD much more.
Very weird. I'm sure you can buy one if the OE harness is there. I would look up under the passenger side rear for a white plug that is capped off behind the bumper.
I only had the white cap plug too. Called toyota a year back and they wanted over $100 for the connecting part. I had a local trailer and hitch place wire up a fix for $30.
Heat gunned the part where the front mud flaps were bolted on to allow more clearance (rub be gone)- worked great
Putting a 35" tire back on the rig is a chore! If you're not a meat head or understand leverage you're gonna want a buddy there.
@MScruiser - how big of PITA was mounting the wheel in your new rear carrier? - hernia? - ha I think so.
Putting a 35" tire back on the rig is a chore! If you're not a meat head or understand leverage you're gonna want a buddy there.
@MScruiser - how big of PITA was mounting the wheel in your new rear carrier? - hernia? - ha I think so.
MScruiser
obsessive-compulsive oppositional-defiant wise-ass
- Thread starter
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Yes, it just about killed me.
I am 5'10" and 180lbs and I can hold my own in the gym, but I felt like a little girl trying to hump that big ass tire on to the back of my 200. I know the guys in the garage were probably laughing at me. It's just so awkward lifting a big tire to that level, and holding it steady enough to get on the stud.
And yea, I too used a heat gun on that plastic molding that the flaps were attached to; it really healed with rubbing.
I am 5'10" and 180lbs and I can hold my own in the gym, but I felt like a little girl trying to hump that big ass tire on to the back of my 200. I know the guys in the garage were probably laughing at me. It's just so awkward lifting a big tire to that level, and holding it steady enough to get on the stud.
And yea, I too used a heat gun on that plastic molding that the flaps were attached to; it really healed with rubbing.
That 35 does look HUGE on the back. Can you install the blank panel with the bumper installed. I am going to install mine on Saturday. I already put the lights and what I could to try and save some time. Did you have to drill the 22mm holes like the directions said?
