What have you done to your 200 Series this week? (12 Viewers)

[nwfl4runner]

Nice setup. I've had great luck with Macs stuff on trailers.

One question though, and I'm sure what you've done is ok, but it might be more resistant to creep if you rethread your buckle (three bar slide).

When we'd thread 5-point harnesses around a roll bar, we'd thread them like this:

View attachment 3272931

I spent last night cursing my brains out getting the ratchet to fit low enough on the tire so the hatch could still close! Thanks for the tip, I'll fix it tonight!

 

[AnyMal]

I wanted to do that, and with a regular sized tire you'll be fine. The problem is the 37 covers the mounting holes nearest the second row seat, which is why the rear hoop extends so far beyond the vertical support. Also, I can't build over the wheel wells as my third row seats are still there. If you want to build a platform that keeps the third row seats but also can cover a 37, you need to offset the rear supports with a plate, but you'll need a spot on the floor pan to support the vertical tube where it attaches to the plate, and the floor slopes down there and there are no bolt holes, so it's just a perfect spot for stress cracking or ripping the bolt out. Trust me, I wish I could have fit it horizontally!

Is that your only spare or second spare?
What are you running underneath? Rear bumper?
Sorry if you have a thread please link it!

 

[nwfl4runner]

Is that your only spare or second spare?
What are you running underneath? Rear bumper?
Sorry if you have a thread please link it!

My only spare, 37 won't fit underneath, and no rear bumper (didn't want the weight)!

 

[AnyMal]

My only spare, 37 won't fit underneath, and no rear bumper (didn't want the weight)!

Nice.
I actually wouldn't mind the weight back there since i dont carry gear, my third is removed, and im running tall coils.
But i love the way my rear end looks too much to put a bumper on it.

 

[lx200inAR]

Tire/fridge rack back from powder, and got a chase rack style tire strap holding it nice and snug. Need to test it out to see how the factory tie down nuts work, or if I need to use sandwich plates for strength. Time will tell.

Semi off topic. I think I've seen you post about them but can't find it now. These are the Escape Gear seat covers, correct? Do they fit well enough? I'm pretty sure Equipt/Escape Gear says they don't fit on the early LXs. But seems like you are running them fine.

 

[nwfl4runner]

Semi off topic. I think I've seen you post about them but can't find it now. These are the Escape Gear seat covers, correct? Do they fit well enough? I'm pretty sure Equipt/Escape Gear says they don't fit on the early LXs. But seems like you are running them fine.

Yup they are - fronts fit just fine, second row needed some cutting and sewing to fit around the seat heater cables. Third row bottoms fit but 3rd row backs are a crap shoot because you cannot remove 3rd row headrests

 

[lx200inAR]

Yup they are - fronts fit just fine, second row needed some cutting and sewing to fit around the seat heater cables. Third row bottoms fit but 3rd row backs are a crap shoot because you cannot remove 3rd row headrests

Thanks. I wouldn't be worried about 3rd row at least. Good to know it's mostly about fitting around features rather than different inherent shapes.. Do later LCs have rear heaters? Maybe the later covers work better for the LX?

 

[AnyMal]

Took my driver mirror off today to finally tighten down anything potentially loose.
Clips were good, so i gave the three pivot point arm screws some tightening that they really didn't seem to need.
Popped the glass back on and still rattles like a tin can...

The pass mirror is tight and good, just minimal normal buzzing with music.
Driver side shakes to a blur when i play anything with a bass line.
Next step is tearing apart the entire mirror housing to see if anything else needs attention inside.

Started at 5 years old. Truck going on 6. At this rate it'll be a jalopy in 5 more.
I must have some kind of lemon right? Right?
There was a TSB on something just like this though if I'm not mistaken.

 

[nwfl4runner]

Thanks. I wouldn't be worried about 3rd row at least. Good to know it's mostly about fitting around features rather than different inherent shapes.. Do later LCs have rear heaters? Maybe the later covers work better for the LX?

Not sure, but I will say it was a pretty easy fix. The bottoms fit just fine, it's just the slit for the wires on the back section needed to be lengthened just a little bit, and then it fit perfectly. Super easy fix.

 

[Artie]

Mine was a 17 and it was already beyond gone. 3 years max should at least make it easier to replace or remove. We’re not putting a new one on.

Dang, that’s not that long… mine sits in the garage most of the time and isn’t daily driven, hopefully I can eek out longer than 3.

 

[bigezvol]

Added 1" Bora spacers today... which meant more inner fender liner work. Zero rub in full lock fwd and Rev in L-N-H. Running 285/60/20 Falken WP AT3w.

 

[Ratchey]

Took my driver mirror off today to finally tighten down anything potentially loose.
Clips were good, so i gave the three pivot point arm screws some tightening that they really didn't seem to need.
Popped the glass back on and still rattles like a tin can...

The pass mirror is tight and good, just minimal normal buzzing with music.
Driver side shakes to a blur when i play anything with a bass line.
Next step is tearing apart the entire mirror housing to see if anything else needs attention inside.

Started at 5 years old. Truck going on 6. At this rate it'll be a jalopy in 5 more.
I must have some kind of lemon right? Right?
There was a TSB on something just like this though if I'm not mistaken.

I don't know what years were affected, but the fix for mine was the kit in the TSB. It has longer screws that fixed my rattling mirror housing. (09)
If it is just the glass, then I would think something may be broken inside.

 

[brandonb4]

Did you have the chrome bits painted?

I did the painting myself: DIY - 200 Series Chrome Delete - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/diy-200-series-chrome-delete.1308091/

 

[gasman4u]

I had mine wrapped but never asked how long it would last, I assume a decade or there about. What is the consensus on duration?

I thought XPEL was supposed to last 7-....10? years. Likely also depending on who installed it, use/care, and UV exposure. I can't speak to 3M, but can say there is close to no one installing it vs XPEL, STEK, etc films.

 

[Bukker]

No more running boards! Now to get rid of the headlights and black spray paint from PO. (Not my taste.)

My stutter step getting in the first time was pretty hilarious.

 

[El Skywalker]

View attachment 3274447
No more running boards! Now to get rid of the headlights and black spray paint from PO. (Not my taste.)

My stutter step getting in the first time was pretty hilarious.

It took me a couple days of getting used to that.
Nothing like getting in your car and thinking you have a step there. SURPRISE

 

[CharlieS]

Coolest garage coasters ever.

 

[Tex68w]

It took me a couple days of getting used to that.
Nothing like getting in your car and thinking you have a step there. SURPRISE

I've been running around without steps for the pas week, it's definitely a weird sensation haha, but I kinda like the look.

 

[CharlieS]

I ran without the steps for a bit and liked it for day to day. I agree 100% that they look better without steps. On the other hand, steps/step sliders are nice when loading and unloading things to/from the roof.

 

[Tex68w]

I ran without the steps for a bit and liked it for day to day. I agree 100% that they look better without steps. On the other hand, steps/step sliders are nice when loading and unloading things to/from the roof.

100% agreed, for just tooting around town it's perfect, but if I were to need to get to something on the roof or truly use it off-road then it's a no go.