What have you done to your 200 Series this week? (16 Viewers)

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Peeled the 3M clear bra off of everything on her last week. man that was a pain in the ass. luckily I found a bottle of the 3M adhesive remover at auto zone to help me with the residue. sure beats the $100+/hr shop hours just to peel stickers. took about 5 hours start to finish.
 
Peeled the 3M clear bra off of everything on her last week. man that was a pain in the ass. luckily I found a bottle of the 3M adhesive remover at auto zone to help me with the residue. sure beats the $100+/hr shop hours just to peel stickers. took about 5 hours start to finish.
I did the same thing Sunday, but luckily only had the door edge guards and under the door handles. Heat gun, plastic scaper and some good gone did the trick. Hate that s***.
 
I am saving that non-sense for my guy who is redoing my protective film. For what they charge they can enjoy removing the old stuff lol.
 
I am saving that non-sense for my guy who is redoing my protective film. For what they charge they can enjoy removing the old stuff lol.
I had mine wrapped but never asked how long it would last, I assume a decade or there about. What is the consensus on duration?
 
I had mine wrapped but never asked how long it would last, I assume a decade or there about. What is the consensus on duration?
Mine was dealer installed in 2013... should have taken it off when I bought it 15 months ago.
 
Depends on the product used, your installer, how much UV sunlight it gets, the level of debris and bugs that hit it, how often you wash and with which products, etc. Too many factors to really nail it down but I'd be willing to wager that 3-5 years is pretty standard with some going much longer depending on all of those factors listed above.
 
Personally dont like wraps, but if anyone needs DM me for xpel hookups.
 
I had mine wrapped but never asked how long it would last, I assume a decade or there about. What is the consensus on duration?
Mine was a 17 and it was already beyond gone. 3 years max should at least make it easier to replace or remove. We’re not putting a new one on.
 
I used about half a box of sound deadener sheets (~15 lbs) and the closed cell foam weights next to nothing. My primary focus for this round of sound deadening was the roof as I was chasing a squeak / rattle (which I did not find /fix) and I never wanted to drop the headliner again. So I coated over 70% of the roof sheet metal with the deadener and 100% with the closed cell foam. The deadener just stops resonation of vibration across panels so 100% is not needed but the closed cell foam acts as an insulator (heat and cold) with some sound absorption properties so that is why I wanted overlap in that material. I then moved onto the doors and did the same coverage of the outer door skins. In the rear of the LC I moved subwoofer and certain rear AC components so that I could reach the outer D panel and got really good coverage on it as well.
Thanks for the details -- I may do this in the event I ever bite the bullet and put proper LC roof rail hardware on my 2018 LX.
 
Tire/fridge rack back from powder, and got a chase rack style tire strap holding it nice and snug. Need to test it out to see how the factory tie down nuts work, or if I need to use sandwich plates for strength. Time will tell.

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Tire/fridge rack back from powder, and got a chase rack style tire strap holding it nice and snug. Need to test it out to see how the factory tie down nuts work, or if I need to use sandwich plates for strength. Time will tell.

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Nice setup. I've had great luck with Macs stuff on trailers.

One question though, and I'm sure what you've done is ok, but it might be more resistant to creep if you rethread your buckle (three bar slide).

When we'd thread 5-point harnesses around a roll bar, we'd thread them like this:

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Tire/fridge rack back from powder, and got a chase rack style tire strap holding it nice and snug. Need to test it out to see how the factory tie down nuts work, or if I need to use sandwich plates for strength. Time will tell.

70058193919__3C7D552C-6B9F-439F-B05C-X4.jpg

I love it, I just hate how much room it eats up back there.
 
I love it, I just hate how much room it eats up back there.
I agree. I think it would be more practical to place the spare horizontally, and build a slightly raised storage platform (full width, right over the wheel wells) above it - like a drawer system. You'd still have the spare in the back, but it wouldn't obstruct the rear view mirror and you'd maximize storage room.
 
I agree. I think it would be more practical to place the spare horizontally, and build a slightly raised storage platform (full width, right over the wheel wells) above it - like a drawer system. You'd still have the spare in the back, but it wouldn't obstruct the rear view mirror and you'd maximize storage room.

Yea I almost went this route on the last GX build. I was going to tie it in on top of/through the Goose Gear platform.
 
I agree. I think it would be more practical to place the spare horizontally, and build a slightly raised storage platform (full width, right over the wheel wells) above it - like a drawer system. You'd still have the spare in the back, but it wouldn't obstruct the rear view mirror and you'd maximize storage room.

I wanted to do that, and with a regular sized tire you'll be fine. The problem is the 37 covers the mounting holes nearest the second row seat, which is why the rear hoop extends so far beyond the vertical support. Also, I can't build over the wheel wells as my third row seats are still there. If you want to build a platform that keeps the third row seats but also can cover a 37, you need to offset the rear supports with a plate, but you'll need a spot on the floor pan to support the vertical tube where it attaches to the plate, and the floor slopes down there and there are no bolt holes, so it's just a perfect spot for stress cracking or ripping the bolt out. Trust me, I wish I could have fit it horizontally!
 

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