What have you done to your 200 Series this week? (15 Viewers)

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Tested the new tires and BudBuilt skids on Peru Creek, Warden Gulch, and Chihuahua Gulch in Summit Co. Passed a nice looking Silver 2016+ on Icon wheels. Didn’t drag the skids but the tires did awesome. I dragged the factory steps lightly, picked up some new scratches, and dented the exhaust tip. Surprisingly the 1up rack didn’t touch a thing. It’d be great to have left it behind, but I didn’t have a great place to leave it.
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Well, not everything was done this last week, but here is what I have done to my "new to me" 2008 Amazon Green Land Cruiser since I picked it up a few months ago. I bought the truck from a fellow MUD member, but it is still amazing how many little things need to be done once you start looking.

Looked for a long time for a nice, clean stock Amazon Green. Like the color even more in person than in the pics I had seen.

Had my PDR guy touch up some of the nicks and bruises that a typical 14 year old car has.
Added a wireless bluetooth receiver so that I can listen to my iPhone though the AUX port
Added a Nite Ize Steelie iPhone mount which works perfectly with my Magsafe charger.
Replaced the clips for the windshield trim and had it reinstalled. PO had Safelite replace his cracked windshield and they butchered it.
Replaced the burnt out license plate bulbs.
Replaced the cabin air filter.
Replaced the engine air filter.
Replaced the shift knob - its faux wood grain was showing quite a bit of wear and it is nice to have something new at one of your contact points.
Bought new OEM floor mats.
Replaced a bunch of random interior plastic covers that had gone missing over the years. Nothing like paying $10 for a flimsy piece of plastic.
Replaced the hitch cover and its mounting bracket.
Replaced all of the wiper blades with the good OEM ones that have replaceable inserts.
Replaced all four shocks since the front right was leaking pretty badly.
Installed front spring spacers to even out the rake.
Installed a Fumoto oil drain valve.
Installed a metal Toyota oil filter housing.
Changed the oil and filter with Mobil 1 5w-30 and OEM filter.
Changed the front and rear diff oil with Mobil 1 75w-90 synthetic gear lubricant.
Installed an external hex plug for front diff.
Changed the transmission oil with Toyota Genuine ATF WS.
Changed the transfer case oil with Mobil 1 75w-90 synthetic gear lubricant.
Changed the PCV valve.
Had the MAF sensor and throttle body cleaned.

Considering getting a nice ceramic coat put on it, but I do not have much experience with them and am trying to figure out if they are worth it. It is not cheap, but I plan on having this truck for the long term.

Here is a quick pic from my road trip back from picking it up and how it sits now.

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Well, not everything was done this last week, but here is what I have done to my "new to me" 2008 Amazon Green Land Cruiser since I picked it up a few months ago. I bought the truck from a fellow MUD member, but it is still amazing how many little things need to be done once you start looking.

Had my PDR guy touch up some of the nicks and bruises that a typical 14 year old car has.
Added a wireless bluetooth receiver so that I can listen to my iPhone though the AUX port
Added a Nite Ize Steelie iPhone mount which works perfectly with my Magsafe charger.
Replaced the clips for the windshield trim and had it reinstalled. PO had Safelite replace his cracked windshield and they butchered it.
Replaced the burnt out license plate bulbs.
Replaced the cabin air filter.
Replaced the engine air filter.
Replaced the shift knob - its faux wood grain was showing quite a bit of wear and it is nice to have something new at one of your contact points.
Bought new OEM floor mats.
Replaced a bunch of random interior plastic covers that had gone missing over the years. Nothing like paying $10 for a flimsy piece of plastic.
Replaced the hitch cover and its mounting bracket.
Replaced all of the wiper blades with the good OEM ones that have replaceable inserts.
Replaced all four shocks since the front right was leaking pretty badly.
Installed front spring spacers to even out the rake.
Installed a Fumoto oil drain valve.
Installed a metal Toyota oil filter housing.
Changed the oil and filter with Mobil 1 5w-30 and OEM filter.
Changed the front and rear diff oil with Mobil 1 75w-90 synthetic gear lubricant.
Installed an external hex plug for front diff.
Changed the transmission oil with Toyota Genuine ATF WS.
Changed the transfer case oil with Mobil 1 75w-90 synthetic g
Changed the PCV valve.
Had the MAF sensor and throttle body cleaned.

Considering getting a nice ceramic coat put on it, but I do not have much experience with them and am trying to figure out if they are worth it. It is not cheap, but I plan on having this truck for the long term.

Here is a quick pic from my road trip back from picking it up and how it sits now.

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I love that Amazon Green Metallic color! Congrats on the new truck!
 
Does a bear… never mind.

Found the part number for the cap on the forum somewhere. I believe it is for an FJ but fits perfect and calls for the good stuff.

Genuine Toyota Parts - Cap Assy, Oil Filler (12180-0H012) https://a.co/d/bmdFWLu

Amazon link
I thought the oil pressure gauge was stuck until switching to 0W30, it actually builds pressure under load now.
 
My first step today on my 2019 I got Monday was to tint the front windows. Looks and feels better!
Next wheel, tires and front bumper...
 
I give you my work in progress. She now has an ARB front, with factory fog lights modified, Primeluxe LED spot lights, Warn 12k VR, and camera remounted.

Also added bloc diamond plate to fill some of the holes that were not used in the bumper.

New angle of attach makes the 37x12.50s look even meaner!

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Couple more

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That bumper is way too close to the plastic. You can’t mount it flush like that because the bullbar is like a big torsion bar between the frame rails. Ok corrugated roads it moves a lot. You need like another 1/2” of plastic trimmed back or you’ll break the tabs off the bumper skin that tuck it under the headlights.

You can get thicker bulb trim to keep the flush look but allow some movement: Amazon product ASIN B07KY4J7ZR
 
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That bumper is way too close to the plastic. You can’t mount it flush like that because the bullbar is like a big torsion bar between the frame rails. Ok corrugated roads it moves a lot. You need like another 1/2” of plastic trimmed back or you’ll break the tabs off the bumper skin that tuck it under the headlights.

You can get thicker bulb trim to keep the flush look but allow some movement: Amazon product ASIN B07KY4J7ZR
The trim is flexible rubber. There is also a good bit changed underneath already, to fit the 37s. Not much original there.
 
Looks great how much lift did that take to fit the tires?
OME heavy, 1.5 inch leveling kit, all the plastic removed, some of the medal removed, body mounts modified and moved.
 
The trim is flexible rubber. There is also a good bit changed underneath already, to fit the 37s. Not much original there.
Nothing you did to clearance for wheels really matters in this case, as far as what @tbisaacs is referring to. Here's a good demonstration of what he means. Look how much the bumper moves relative to the body over bumpy terrain. It does not appear you have enough room between the bumper and the remaining plastic to allow for this movement. This can cause at best case, popping the bumper off while on these bumpy roads, and at worse breaking the headlight tabs.

 
Took the Element fire extinguisher out of the drawer and mounted to the back drawer trim panel. Not in immediate reach from the driver's seat, but easier to get to than before.

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Nothing you did to clearance for wheels really matters in this case, as far as what @tbisaacs is referring to. Here's a good demonstration of what he means. Look how much the bumper moves relative to the body over bumpy terrain. It does not appear you have enough room between the bumper and the remaining plastic to allow for this movement. This can cause at best case, popping the bumper off while on these bumpy roads, and at worse breaking the headlight tabs.


I’ve seen this so many times but it still amazes me how much is going on when driving on a road like that.
 
Nothing you did to clearance for wheels really matters in this case, as far as what @tbisaacs is referring to. Here's a good demonstration of what he means. Look how much the bumper moves relative to the body over bumpy terrain. It does not appear you have enough room between the bumper and the remaining plastic to allow for this movement. This can cause at best case, popping the bumper off while on these bumpy roads, and at worse breaking the headlight tabs.


Roger that, I am aware of what you are saying, and accounted for it in the instal. This is not my first ARB bumper on a cruiser.

What I am saying is, everything rigid is out of the equation when touching. There is the arb bumper, then soft rubber on the edge, then the plastic facia lays above, and forward of the inner portion of the steel of the ARB.

Thus, there is plenty of room for play between the flexible plastic, and the metal. If it come into contact, there is an overlap, with soft rubber barrier, not point to point where the plastic would break.

I have a 100 with an ARB, like the video. There, it is metal to metal. This is not so on the 200 where the tolerances are close on mine.
 

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