What have you done to your 200 Series this week? (37 Viewers)

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Forgot to mention key piece: 😎

The roof rack bracket (which holds both bolts together) and the retainer in LEFT FRONT side had fallen down and into headliner some time back. Drove few months after that with old roof rack. Once the new roof rack arrived and I ordered my new Bracket from Toyota, I was able to pull the headliner down from LEFT FRONT side only (Being extra careful with airbags) and in attempt to put the new bracket from inside (to bolt on new rack), my fingers mysteriously located the old bracket AND the old retainer 😎

Makes me feel much better that they won’t be dancing on the inside (posing danger to airbags or wiring).

Few hours well spent instead of paying Toyota $400-700+ that they were quoting 😅

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Well, I just did the same thing today. I have an LX and lost the 2nd from front on drivers side. Tried to fish it out with 2 picks but eventually lost it. Did you remove the A and B pillar trim to get the headliner down enough? I don’t actually need a bolt to go back since I’m just installing an OEM LC rack, and that’s the one space not used. So wrestling with trying to fish it out, or just come with some other solution to keep water out of the holes.

I read the posts about being careful and I thought I pulled it back up enough, but as soon as I pulled the rail, the nut bracket fell in.
 
Well, I just did the same thing today. I have an LX and lost the 2nd from front on drivers side. Tried to fish it out with 2 picks but eventually lost it. Did you remove the A and B pillar trim to get the headliner down enough? I don’t actually need a bolt to go back since I’m just installing an OEM LC rack, and that’s the one space not used. So wrestling with trying to fish it out, or just come with some other solution to keep water out of the holes.

I read the posts about being careful and I thought I pulled it back up enough, but as soon as I pulled the rail, the nut bracket fell in.
Sorry to hear that. I removed (Read: just the top part) of the front Driver side pillar after removing the LH handle on the pillar. After that, I was able to pull the headliner down by detaching it from the built-in clips (only from front Driver side) about 4-6 inches (down enough so that my hand can fit in it and move around the airbag to fish out old retainer and attach new one from inside). I did not have to remove the central pillar or anything else.

There are a few things you can try such as putty or silicone but you might be able to get away with a thick rubber that is the same width as the linear space/groove (at least 5-6 inches long to cover both holes) with strong adhesive on one side and attach that permanently over the holes to repel water (this works best if there is a constant pressure on the piece to keep it attached to the surface). However, another solution which I just thought of might be to insert a bolt extender into the hole tightly (please see pic 1) and re-insert the original rack bolt into that to cover the holes before covering up the bolts from top and any small space surrounding the extender. Or if you find plain bolt that tightly fits into the holes, you can attach strong adhesive on the head and insert the bolt permanently to cover up the holes. Or you can just take the old school economical route and take good ol’ metal piece and attach it via solder (walmart sells stuff for this specific purpose for like $20 (or at least used to) 😁

Sorry mate, I am an artist by hobby so i’ve got the creativity bug and just thought of these ways to cover up the hole. If I think of anything else, I’ll definitely get back to you once I am done with my work at the hospital.

if you feel like it is still within reach, you can use one of the magnetic retriever that they at Autozone etc and see if it comes back attached to that.

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Installed the 12 Volt Solutions remote start with phone app, and it works great. Also topped off the engine oil with 10W40. Received my Lloyd's cargo mat, and it was wrong. I removed my 3rd row seats so ordered for HE, and got one with cutouts for the seat supports. Hopefully the correct one is headed my way soon.
 
Sorry to hear that. I removed (Read: just the top part) of the front Driver side pillar after removing the LH handle on the pillar. After that, I was able to pull the headliner down by detaching it from the built-in clips (only from front Driver side) about 4-6 inches (down enough so that my hand can fit in it and move around the airbag to fish out old retainer and attach new one from inside). I did not have to remove the central pillar or anything else.

There are a few things you can try such as putty or silicone but you might be able to get away with a thick rubber that is the same width as the linear space/groove (at least 5-6 inches long to cover both holes) with strong adhesive on one side and attach that permanently over the holes to repel water (this works best if there is a constant pressure on the piece to keep it attached to the surface). However, another solution which I just thought of might be to insert a bolt extender into the hole tightly (please see pic 1) and re-insert the original rack bolt into that to cover the holes before covering up the bolts from top and any small space surrounding the extender. Or if you find plain bolt that tightly fits into the holes, you can attach strong adhesive on the head and insert the bolt permanently to cover up the holes. Or you can just take the old school economical route and take good ol’ metal piece and attach it via solder (walmart sells stuff for this specific purpose for like $20 (or at least used to) 😁

Sorry mate, I am an artist by hobby so i’ve got the creativity bug and just thought of these ways to cover up the hole. If I think of anything else, I’ll definitely get back to you once I am done with my work at the hospital.

if you feel like it is still within reach, you can use one of the magnetic retriever that they at Autozone etc and see if it comes back attached to that.

View attachment 2654612
Thanks for the tips. Resolved today.

This was plan B, but I think it would have worked fine. Used a 1/8” butterfly bolt/nut with a 1/8 neoprene washer against the factory bolt washer. Was going to just cake in some permatex liquid gasket.
3CC0ED57-A0A4-4D17-B0A2-F508478DFE57.jpeg

Luckily I didn’t have to test it. I was able to take off the B Pillar cover and remove both pull handles over driver and 2nd row. With those off I was able to squeeze my hand in and locate the insert and position it so I could get a bolt threaded.
0C87A8AE-3B3A-43F7-A2EC-EE11688943D2.jpeg

And finished product, not too exciting, but moving along...
D4AC0B43-A441-42C6-9768-472CED0CE9ED.jpeg


Also not that anyone doesn’t already no how awesome @Eric Sarjeant and his team are, but they sent me this brand new rack for next to nothing.
 
Thanks for the tips. Resolved today.

This was plan B, but I think it would have worked fine. Used a 1/8” butterfly bolt/nut with a 1/8 neoprene washer against the factory bolt washer. Was going to just cake in some permatex liquid gasket.
View attachment 2655247
Luckily I didn’t have to test it. I was able to take off the B Pillar cover and remove both pull handles over driver and 2nd row. With those off I was able to squeeze my hand in and locate the insert and position it so I could get a bolt threaded.
View attachment 2655240
And finished product, not too exciting, but moving along...
View attachment 2655261

Also not that anyone doesn’t already no how awesome @Eric Sarjeant and his team are, but they sent me this brand new rack for next to nothing.
Good deal. Glad it all worked out. Now you and I know what to do and not to do for next time 😁
 
Installed the Voswitch UV100 8 Gang switch panel. VERY impressed with the initial quality. Only have my lightbar and compressor hooked up to it for now but have room for 6 more accessories.

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Also installed aluminum "grab" handles on the roof rack. One on each side above the rear tire. Helps me step up onto the tire to deal with loads on the rack.

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Installed Toyo AT3s (285/70-17) on Icon Vector 5s. Stock suspension.

Needed to remove the front mud flap and that small wind deflector to alleviate some rubbing. Still need to hit the fender liner with a heat gun. Road noise is minimal although there is some clacking (maybe from removal of the wind deflector?).

Two pictures -- one from the evening, one from the morning. Really shows the difference in the Onyx Blue paint depending on light levels.

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Does one of your table mount "cradles" (the side closer toward the front of the vehicle) touch or rest on the ridges in the roof on yours at all? Mine just barely made contact, so I put some clear PPF and a piece of sticky foam to protect from scratching
It does not. Mine have a bit of room below the mounts before it would touch the roof. I believe my feet are the higher ones, as the rack sits fairly high off the roof.
 
It does not. Mine have a bit of room below the mounts before it would touch the roof. I believe my feet are the higher ones, as the rack sits fairly high off the roof.
I may just message them—it doesn’t seem right to have the cradle making contact. I wonder if perhaps the one I received is a little out of shape
 
I agree in reaching out to them. I've contacted them several times and they have been very prompt in their replies.
 
Painted the Front Calipers with the DupliColor brush-on kit, happy with the way they turned out. This was the 4th time I've done it, painted the Calipers on my old Jeep GC's Red, my current MINI Clubman Red, my Highlander and now the LX Silver.

Before:

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After:

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Edit: Got the rears done too

Before

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After

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How do you like your Cooper Discoverer AT3?
Really like them, very quiet and smooth, great snow traction, transforms the whole look of the LX. I bought the wheelset last year from a member on here who bought this 2013 and wanted to go with 17" wheels and bigger tires after adding a a lift.
 
Just got home from my first application of NHOU from the place in New Hampshire that originated it. I've had my LX only a few months and it was bought in New Jersey. But the 1st owner took immaculate care of it and it had almost no rust, even surface, underneath. With NHOU applied every year, I hope to keep it that way here in the Great White North.
 
VelociRAX bike rack

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